ANOTHER GAS LINE THREAD

Adam,
You do not need to spend more than 30-50 for a good flaring tool.We find
it easier to replace the tools as they wear out.
I would think a production shop can benifit from the 300 tool.

On Sat, Dec 17, 2016 at 11:47 AM, Adam Metzger
wrote:

> > I used pre-made lengths that were (I believe) 48" long. I cut the flared
> end off at the tank side and used brass compression fittings. I slid the
> > rubber hose over the flared end (it was not hard) and used injection
> hose clamps.
>
>
> Can i clarify? You cut the flare off the senders, and the poly armour
> tube, and used flareless fittings on the sender end, and slid the hose on
> the
> end at the edge of the tank? Is that correct?
>
>
>
> --
> 1976 Palm Beach
> Austin, TX
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Adam,
If your flaring tool won't grip tight anymore you can lap the two surfaces
with 320 or so sandpaper to get a better grip.

> Adam,
> You do not need to spend more than 30-50 for a good flaring tool.We find
> it easier to replace the tools as they wear out.
> I would think a production shop can benifit from the 300 tool.
>
> On Sat, Dec 17, 2016 at 11:47 AM, Adam Metzger

>

> > > I used pre-made lengths that were (I believe) 48" long. I cut the
> flared
> > end off at the tank side and used brass compression fittings. I slid the
> > > rubber hose over the flared end (it was not hard) and used injection
> > hose clamps.
> >
> >
> > Can i clarify? You cut the flare off the senders, and the poly armour
> > tube, and used flareless fittings on the sender end, and slid the hose on
> > the
> > end at the edge of the tank? Is that correct?
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > 1976 Palm Beach
> > Austin, TX
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
> jimk
> http://www.appliedgmc.com
> 1-800-752-7502
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
Can i clarify? You cut the flare off the senders, and the poly armour tube, and used flareless fittings on the sender end, and slid the hose on the
end at the edge of the tank? Is that correct?

That is correct, using compression fittings at the tank. At the bottom edge of the tank I left the flare in-place and pushed the hose over it and
used a fuel injection clamp on it.

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
Hubler 1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
I finally got a chance to get my coach jacked up to get a good look at the fuel line mess under there.

At least one tank vent blocked off. Some hoses look new, others have moss on them.

I found a wire harness zip tied to the fuel lines, is this the wires for the senders? Runs through the frame and up into the coach at the side?

If I were to remove the filler pipe, do I need to access it from the inside drivers side wall? Or can I get it out through the wheel well?

What is the foam grommet material that the filler pipe and vent run through?

Has anyone seen or made a list of what size fuel lines go where in the system? (3/8 from sender to T, 1/2 to engine, etc)

I also discovered a hole in the exhaust system under the step. Oh boy!
--
1976 Palm Beach
Austin, TX
 
Adam,
Why don't you call me on our toll free line so we can discuss all.

> I finally got a chance to get my coach jacked up to get a good look at the
> fuel line mess under there.
>
> At least one tank vent blocked off. Some hoses look new, others have moss
> on them.
>
> I found a wire harness zip tied to the fuel lines, is this the wires for
> the senders? Runs through the frame and up into the coach at the side?
>
> If I were to remove the filler pipe, do I need to access it from the
> inside drivers side wall? Or can I get it out through the wheel well?
>
> What is the foam grommet material that the filler pipe and vent run
> through?
>
> Has anyone seen or made a list of what size fuel lines go where in the
> system? (3/8 from sender to T, 1/2 to engine, etc)
>
> I also discovered a hole in the exhaust system under the step. Oh boy!
> --
> 1976 Palm Beach
> Austin, TX
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Adam,
Responses are lead by => after each.

> I finally got a chance to get my coach jacked up to get a good look at the fuel line mess under there.
>
> At least one tank vent blocked off. Some hoses look new, others have moss on them.
> => Not uncommon. A lot of people are good with doing half the job half fast.
>
> I found a wire harness zip tied to the fuel lines, is this the wires for the senders? Runs through the frame and up into the coach at the side?
> => That is for the senders and the tank selector valve.
>
> If I were to remove the filler pipe, do I need to access it from the inside drivers side wall? Or can I get it out through the wheel well?
> => No, but removing the wheel well liner will get you a lot more access.
> => You can disconnect the fill pipe at the rubber joint where it turns up and move the vent T to under the cab floor.
>
> What is the foam grommet material that the filler pipe and vent run through?
> => My 73 doesn't seem to have that.
>
> Has anyone seen or made a list of what size fuel lines go where in the system? (3/8 from sender to T, 1/2 to engine, etc)
> => The only 1/2 is from the fill vent T to the fill neck.
> => The draw lines and fill vent are both 3/8.
> => The vapor vent lines to the vapor separator valve are 5/16.
> => The run from the valve to the carbon canister and the fuel for the generator are both 1/4.
>
> I also discovered a hole in the exhaust system under the step. Oh boy!

Adam, at some point in the future, you will get caught up and she will only require the regular maintenance and the odd repair. There is light at the
end of the tunnel.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
'73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control Arms
Now with both true Keyless and remote entry
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
I used nylon brake line tubing and dot fittings for fuel line and vents. Been on 4 years, still looks new. Keep away from the exhaust, nylon don't
like high heat.
--
Bill Rahmer
Lecanto,fl

76 Eleganza
 
For lawn mowers it is fine, for GMC motorhome it is a fire looking to happen and not gas or fuel approved.

Bad Choice!

J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker 18 Year Member
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States Charter Member
GMCMI 18 Year Member
78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
1975 Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan

>
> I used nylon brake line tubing and dot fittings for fuel line and vents. Been on 4 years, still looks new. Keep away from the exhaust, nylon don't
> like high heat.
> --
> Bill Rahmer
> Lecanto,fl
>
> 76 Eleganza
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
But 4 years is nothing, Bill!

You need to do mods that will last 40 years. The GMC is such a complex
machine that you're not likely to be keeping an eye on things you fixed
in the last... decade. I've recently been deep into my coach doing an
EFI install and finding wiring, oil lines and such that is still looking
great 8-14 years after I did upgrades or maintenance. And then there
was that one brilliant mod that literally could have burnt my coach
down. I have NO idea where my head was at when doing it.

Do it right the first time because you won't find time to do it over.
And when messing with fuel line that can mean disaster.
Or you can just ignore all this advice and carry on. Things will
probably be fine... :-)

Just sayin'...
Kelvin
'73 23' in Eugene, OR

> For lawn mowers it is fine, for GMC motorhome it is a fire looking to happen and not gas or fuel approved.
>
> Bad Choice!
>
> J.R. Wright
> GMC GreatLaker 18 Year Member
> GMCGL Tech Editor
> GMC Eastern States Charter Member
> GMCMI 18 Year Member
> 78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
> 1975 Avion (Under Reconstruction)
> Michigan
>

>>
>> I used nylon brake line tubing and dot fittings for fuel line and vents. Been on 4 years, still looks new. Keep away from the exhaust, nylon don't
>> like high heat.
>> --
>> Bill Rahmer
>> Lecanto,fl
>>
>> 76 Eleganza
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
I agree Use truck air brake tubing trucks have used it for diesel fuel for years also new cars use plastic or nylon for gas lines but do protect it
from heat
 
Search "Gates barricade fuel hose selection" and watch the video. I think with the correct selection of hose, you don't need to reengineer the
system. Plus you retain the flexible hose where it was designded to be to prevent adding stress and vibration cracking potential. JWID.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
Source America First
 
do not use any hose not specifically rated for what it is to carry.
Especially fuel. Hose compatible with diesel cannot be assumed compatible
with gasoline.

Sully
77 eleganza 2
seattle

On Fri, Dec 23, 2016 at 7:29 AM, John R. Lebetski
wrote:

> Search "Gates barricade fuel hose selection" and watch the video. I think
> with the correct selection of hose, you don't need to reengineer the
> system. Plus you retain the flexible hose where it was designded to be to
> prevent adding stress and vibration cracking potential. JWID.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
> Source America First
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I use stainless covered teflon

> do not use any hose not specifically rated for what it is to carry.
>
> Especially fuel. Hose compatible with diesel cannot be assumed compatible
>
> with gasoline.
>
>
>
> Sully
>
> 77 eleganza 2
>
> seattle
>
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 23, 2016 at 7:29 AM, John R. Lebetski >
>

>
>
>
> > Search "Gates barricade fuel hose selection" and watch the video. I
> think
>
> > with the correct selection of hose, you don't need to reengineer the
>
> > system. Plus you retain the flexible hose where it was designded to be to
>
> > prevent adding stress and vibration cracking potential. JWID.
>
> > --
>
> > John Lebetski
>
> > Woodstock, IL
>
> > 77 Eleganza II
>
> > Source America First
>
> >
>
> > _______________________________________________
>
> > GMCnet mailing list
>
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> GMCnet mailing list
>
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
 
Thanks everyone-

I'm going hard lines on the tanks, with compression fittings, rubber everywhere else. That way I can replace everything easily, and not worry about
hose on top of the tanks.

I plan on running all fuel lines outside the frame to reduce heat, as well as fuel pump and filter.
I figure I can attach some sort of absorber to the hard lines to reduce rattle and stress on the compression fittings. Maybe pass them through a
small foam block or something. Is there movement here that I need to be concerned with, or am I overthinking it?

since I already started gathering supplies, I'll be running Gates barricade.

I'll measure out the hard lines, then get a brake shop to flare them, since I broke my flaring tool trying to flare the poly armour. do I NEED to
flare them? Will two inches of contact and a hose clamp work?

--
1976 Palm Beach
Austin, TX
 
> I used nylon brake line tubing and dot fittings for fuel line and vents. Been on 4 years, still looks new. Keep away from the exhaust, nylon
> don't like high heat.

I'm using nylon fuel line from Dorman with their adapter fittings
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-50552-800-223.aspx?parttype=Compression%2520Fitting&origin=keywordhttp://www.dormanproducts.com/p-28964-800-075.aspx?origin=keyword
--
Wally Anderson
Omaha NE
75 Glenbrook
Megasquirt III injection
Bob Stone hydroBOOOOST
Manny reaction arm system
Branscombe Kelsey Hayes park brake
http://wallyandsue.blogspot.com/
 
> Thanks everyone-
>
> I'm going hard lines on the tanks, with compression fittings, rubber everywhere else. That way I can replace everything easily, and not worry
> about hose on top of the tanks.
>
> I plan on running all fuel lines outside the frame to reduce heat, as well as fuel pump and filter.
> I figure I can attach some sort of absorber to the hard lines to reduce rattle and stress on the compression fittings. Maybe pass them through a
> small foam block or something. Is there movement here that I need to be concerned with, or am I overthinking it?

You are not overthinking it - metal rubbing on metal is not ideal. I put hard lines on top of the tanks and used some of the old fuel line to serve
as isulator- cut it into 3 in. sections, split it lengthwise and put it around the hard lines like a sleeve, and wrapping them with tape to make sure
they stay on the lines. Had to space them different between the two lines so that they would fit in the groove on top of the tank. I did not use
compression fittings - Barricade FI hose and FI clamps everywhere - double clamps at the Hardline joins.

Quote:
> I'll measure out the hard lines, then get a brake shop to flare them, since I broke my flaring tool trying to flare the poly armour.


You are smarter than I... I did the flares myself with a cheap tool...

--
76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen
guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center...
Columbia, SC.
 
> Thanks everyone! Any pointers on straightening poly armour?

Adam,

Do you mean unrolling a coil or straightening pieces that were mis-bent?

I will answer late tomorrow.

Matt

--
Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
'73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control Arms
Now with both true Keyless and remote entry
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
> > Thanks everyone! Any pointers on straightening poly armour?
>
> Adam,
>
> Do you mean unrolling a coil or straightening pieces that were mis-bent?
>
> I will answer late tomorrow.
>
> Matt

I mean straightening it off a coil. I can get it relatively straight by hand. Probably being overly anal about it, but I'd like it as straight as
possible.
--
1976 Palm Beach
Austin, TX
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
GMCMI Fall 2026 Rally
Get your shine on at www.cruzingear.co

Share this page

Share this page
Top Bottom
Back