1978 Royale Update and Restoration

[RF_Burns]

Amazing how complicated a wiring harness can get for a simple vehicle like the GMC chassis. I'd like to replace the chassis glass fuse panel with an ATO panel, put replacing the harness is a bit more work than I wont to take on. It would lead to the replacement of the dash as well.

 

[Mike_H]

Amazing how complicated a wiring harness can get for a simple vehicle like the GMC chassis. I'd like to replace the chassis glass fuse panel with an ATO panel, put replacing the harness is a bit more work than I wont to take on. It would lead to the replacement of the dash as well.

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it! Honestly, I would have left mine be, until it fell apart in my hands (the fuse box). I could see where someone tried to JB weld it, so it’s been broken for a while.

 

[RF_Burns]

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it! Honestly, I would have left mine be, until it fell apart in my hands (the fuse box). I could see where someone tried to JB weld it, so it’s been broken for a while.

Found your motorhome thread over at the wrangler forum this morning. Great build thread there as well!

 

[Mike_H]

Found your motorhome thread over at the wrangler forum this morning. Great build thread there as well!

Those guys REALLY like this motorhome build. The jeep I have is another passion of mine, but its been taking a backseat lately. I promised the wife that the MoHo would be done this year...and more important than that, I wouldn't start another Jeep project until the MoHo is done. I have a lot of stuff sitting around for the jeep...

 

[Mike_H]

Today was a good day. Real progress made! Last couple of work sessions have been working with the HVAC system.

I’ve been sealing the doors and testing / replacing actuators. Found all kinds of weird things that are now back to factory. Once the actuators and vacuum lines were confirmed good, I worked on installing the vent plenum.

I did find that the vacuum control was not working. Broken clip. After examining the control for any cracks or other issues, I replaced the with a stainless bolt and nylock nut.

I went with no 10 instead of the recommended no 8…since it’s what I had on hand. I had to file the slot slightly for the bolt to pass through and I used a little heat to get the nut to fit into the white plastic part. Kinda like a thread insert.

With that complete, I tested the control per the manual, and it works perfectly. Very happy about that.

Today, I also got the last of my insulation under the dash installed and was able to work on the harness. New wires are run for my tach and the trans temp gage. I need to replace the fuse box screws, since the originals are rusty and I can’t find em.

I am very hopeful about the sound dampening strategy I used as well. Now that it’s installed, I can hear a difference in radiated / reflected sound, even just talking in the cockpit area.

The final piece of the puzzle is figuring out how to attach the actual dash again. The screws are SO difficult to access with the windshields installed. I’m thinking Allen head screws, so I can use a ball end wrench, or maybe even some VHB mounting tape. I do feel like I could get them installed tomorrow, if I can figure it out.

 

[Kendra]

3M VHB tape is so strong it might shatter plastic/fiberglass when removed in the future. I've attached glass solar panels to a cargo trailer roof with nothing but VHB tape. I think your Allen-head fastener idea will work, or Torx for more leverage when it's time to remove.

 

[Mike_H]

3M VHB tape is so strong it might shatter plastic/fiberglass when removed in the future. I've attached glass solar panels to a cargo trailer roof with nothing but VHB tape. I think your Allen-head fastener idea will work, or Torx for more leverage when it's time to remove.

I'm OK with that...It should NEVER have to come off again. At least, not while I own it. I would prefer the Allen bolts, but if that doesn't work, I don't mind taping. Torx would be difficult for the same reason the Factory Phillips Head screws are...the Driver needs to go straight up from the screw, and the windshield is in the way. Allen head bolts, with a ball Allen Key, allows about 30 degrees of misalignment and that is the key, I believe.

 

[Mike_H]

Well, the Allen head bolt idea won’t work. Still too tight to get in there. I did pick up a new flex head ratchet to try out. I’m hopeful, but not holding my breath.

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It’s got a swivel point r right on the business end, so I’m hoping I can get into that area and drive some screws.

In other news, I started test fitting my refurbished dash pieces again.



And promptly broke the driver’s side…

So that came back out for more repair. It just happened to be areas I didn’t reinforce with fiberglass.

Heading out for a boys 4x4 trip this weekend, so progress will stop for a few days. I was really hoping to get this done.

 

[pvfjr]

I carry this bit ratchet on my motorcycle, and it's a very versatile kit. Gets into a lot of tight spaces. The swivel isn't at the business end, but it locks in place for stability, and overall depth may be less--especially with stubby bits.

https://www.harborfreight.com/locking-flex-head-ratchet-and-bit-set-35-piece-58074.html

 

[Mike_H]

I carry this bit ratchet on my motorcycle, and it's a very versatile kit. Gets into a lot of tight spaces. The swivel isn't at the business end, but it locks in place for stability, and overall depth may be less--especially with stubby bits.

https://www.harborfreight.com/locking-flex-head-ratchet-and-bit-set-35-piece-58074.html

I have that same set. It almost works.

 

[Mike_H]

Summer has flown by! I don't typically get a lot of free weekends between Memorial day and Labor day, so motorhome work tends to slow down. I have been playing with the dash IP and I have progress to show on the dash install itself.

I used VHB mounting tape. As much as I tried, I could not get screws into the factory rivnuts. It feels pretty solid and there are other mounting points as well.

 

[Richard RV]

I have that same set. It almost works.

I have an older set with a bigger assortment of bits, but this little ratchet has gotten me out of trouble more times than I can count.

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[Mike_H]

Got some dash padding installed. This is the new vinyl my wife and I picked out. I really like it.



Column is in as well.



And, our seats. Not mounted yet, but they match the vinyl pretty well.

 

[Mike_H]

The the dash back in the coach the next thing to do is the Instrument Panel. I'm kinda rolling my own here, instead of just taking the easy way and buying something from Custom Instrument Panels (of Mac Dash fame). I read a Hagerty article about the GMC coach that Pontiac dolled up for its Trans Am Territory marketing rig. I REALLY liked how that dash came together, so that is my inspiration. In case you don't want to go back and look through the thread...



This project has been taking up most of my time this summer. Its nice, cause I can work on it at my house when I have a free minute, instead of going to my folks (where the coach is).

Here is the dash panel, with new steel added and cutouts made for the additional gages.



Some changes from the inspiration. I added a trans temp gage and will be using an 8" tablet style single DIN radio. That will give me in dash nav and a back-up camera, plus the ability to stream Blue tooth and connect my phone. I also swapped the heater controls and radio. Just thought it would be easier to have the screen higher in the IP and closer to my line of sight.

The square hole is the new Tell Tale display I created. Instead of laying them out lengthwise, I stacked them. It was the only way I could fit all the gages and information I wanted. You also may notice that there are no switch install holes. I'm eliminating the battery boost switch (since I have LiIon house batteries) and the Main/Aux fuel switch will live over by the headlight switches. That is the last hole I need to make (still, actually).

Anyway, here is a mock up.



And, some of the gages with the lights on. The gages were a bit of a project. Had to clean them up, so there are new faces that I printed out on them. They match the originals though, so hopefully they last. I also printed a matching face for my autometer trans temp gage.

Dash lights on.



Another change from the inspiration is the addition of the shift range indicator. I pulled the swing needle from the GMC gage and build a spot to house it in the T/A gages. I need to add some gasketing to the box though. I'm getting too much light bleed, IMHO. I also need to print the label for it.

Here it is in daylight.



Very soon, this stuff will be mounted in the panel and I'll have to figure out some sort of beauty ring / bezel to cover the mechanicals. I may stick with the original, since its ABS plastic. With a couple sheets of plastic and my 3d Printer, I can add and subtract material just like if it were steel.

Finally, the steering wheel. I never liked the factory wheel. I think it blocked too much of the panel, so I found this guy.



I really wanted the center to be GMC, so I made a new "button."



And, Finally, I cleaned the nasty old plastic...but still didn't like it. Too thin and hard. I wrapped some mason string around the rim to increase the diameter, then used one of the cheap hand stitch wheel covers from Amazon to make it nice and soft in your hand. It actually turned out WAY better than I expected. Last thing to do is either wrap the horn section and back bezel with my dash vinyl or paint them to match the plastics in my coach.

 

[GMC Cruse]

possibly and probably since the choke stove port is blocked in that photo. (and you already have an e.choke) but since you have both exhaust manifolds off right now, use an air nozzel and blow through the center exhaust ports on one side and see if the air comes through the other heads center exhaust ports. that should be a good indicator. post # 30 & 31 in my build thread show photos of where they meet the intake manifold and with mondello block of plates installed afterwards.

That photo appears to be of the driver's side. The manifold is probably not original and was replaced with one that had an EGR valve and our motorhomes do not use one. That plate is blocking off where the EGR would be mounted.

 

[tmsnyder]

The the dash back in the coach the next thing to do is the Instrument Panel. I'm kinda rolling my own here, instead of just taking the easy way and buying something from Custom Instrument Panels (of Mac Dash fame). I read a Hagerty article about the GMC coach that Pontiac dolled up for its Trans Am Territory marketing rig. I REALLY liked how that dash came together, so that is my inspiration. In case you don't want to go back and look through the thread...

View attachment 16319

This project has been taking up most of my time this summer. Its nice, cause I can work on it at my house when I have a free minute, instead of going to my folks (where the coach is).

Here is the dash panel, with new steel added and cutouts made for the additional gages.

View attachment 16320

Some changes from the inspiration. I added a trans temp gage and will be using an 8" tablet style single DIN radio. That will give me in dash nav and a back-up camera, plus the ability to stream Blue tooth and connect my phone. I also swapped the heater controls and radio. Just thought it would be easier to have the screen higher in the IP and closer to my line of sight.

The square hole is the new Tell Tale display I created. Instead of laying them out lengthwise, I stacked them. It was the only way I could fit all the gages and information I wanted. You also may notice that there are no switch install holes. I'm eliminating the battery boost switch (since I have LiIon house batteries) and the Main/Aux fuel switch will live over by the headlight switches. That is the last hole I need to make (still, actually).

Anyway, here is a mock up.

View attachment 16323

And, some of the gages with the lights on. The gages were a bit of a project. Had to clean them up, so there are new faces that I printed out on them. They match the originals though, so hopefully they last. I also printed a matching face for my autometer trans temp gage.

Dash lights on.

View attachment 16324

Another change from the inspiration is the addition of the shift range indicator. I pulled the swing needle from the GMC gage and build a spot to house it in the T/A gages. I need to add some gasketing to the box though. I'm getting too much light bleed, IMHO. I also need to print the label for it.

Here it is in daylight.

View attachment 16325

Very soon, this stuff will be mounted in the panel and I'll have to figure out some sort of beauty ring / bezel to cover the mechanicals. I may stick with the original, since its ABS plastic. With a couple sheets of plastic and my 3d Printer, I can add and subtract material just like if it were steel.

Finally, the steering wheel. I never liked the factory wheel. I think it blocked too much of the panel, so I found this guy.

View attachment 16326

I really wanted the center to be GMC, so I made a new "button."

View attachment 16327

And, Finally, I cleaned the nasty old plastic...but still didn't like it. Too thin and hard. I wrapped some mason string around the rim to increase the diameter, then used one of the cheap hand stitch wheel covers from Amazon to make it nice and soft in your hand. It actually turned out WAY better than I expected. Last thing to do is either wrap the horn section and back bezel with my dash vinyl or paint them to match the plastics in my coach.

View attachment 16328View attachment 16329

THATS AWESOME!!!

 

[Mike_H]

THATS AWESOME!!!

Thanks. Its turning out well. I'm shifting to the bezel now, which is proving to be challenging.

 

[tmsnyder]

Thanks. Its turning out well. I'm shifting to the bezel now, which is proving to be challenging.

Those are great gauges!

 

[Mike_H]

Been working on making this dash and IP look pretty for the last couple weeks. Cutting, designing, printing, rinse repeat. I'm pretty close now with a design. Have a couple more items to work out, but its coming together.

First things first...gotta make the original bezel fit. The gages are a little (a lot!) different between what the original and the firebird are. Little bit of work with a band file and a body saw got the bezel fitting moderately well. This will form the "base" from which the rest of the IP bezel is grown from .

Not really much by way of pictures during the fitting process. Its taken a few iterations. I wish I had a scanner, but alas, I don't (yet).

Here are a couple of the revisions. Its little minor stuff, like tweaking the hole centers, getting the signal indicators aligned, little things like that. I'm printing these parts from ABS (which is the same material as the OE bezel). I like working with ABS because its easily welded and ABS pipe cement works really well to hold things together as well. its also easy to heat mold, if one wanted to go down that path too.

As an aside, it struck me last night how accessible "real" design tools are. I can test fit something like this, run into my home office and tweak my model, send it to the printer, and try the next revision about 3 hours later. Granted, I'm fortunate to "own" an industrial grade modeling program (We use AutoDesk Inventor at work and we have network licenses), But Fusion 360 is just as powerful and that one is free to experiment and play with. 3D printers have gotten so inexpensive now...but doing car parts, you really need an enclosed printer which costs a bit more.

 

[Mike_H]

The gage bezel is entering its last design iteration. I have my spacing down, it’s fitting everywhere it needs to, and I’m really happy with it. Last design change is a pretty simple one. Need to add some “walls” around the gages to help block cross lighting.

I will probably add a couple radii on the edges too, just to clean it up.

I also need to design a bezel around the heater controls and reprint the one I’ve already made for the radio.