1978 Eleganza build

View attachment 14172
I would like to verify something. My battery boost system does not work.

I have the

Samlex ACR-160 Automatic Charge Isolator

installed. The Status connector on the ACR-160 is connected to Y in the GMC diagram (the orange wire from the Front AUX BAT SW) and the Minus connector is connected to ground through a 5A fuse per ACR-160 wiring diagram.
I am not getting 12V power to Status connector when switch is pressed. House Battery and Engine Battery is at 12.6V, and the 5A fuse is good, and house battery is charged at 12.1V. I assume both battery systems are providing 12V to the boost switch.

I assume the diagram from GMC above shows the momentary switch when it is NOT pushed.

Can an expert please verify that when it is pushed, the two paddles connect to the two terminals below in the diagram? The left paddle provides power from 5A fuse from Engine Battery to the terminal below it (Y and S are connected to it) , and BAT NORMAL goes to BAT BOOST (S and Y are connected to it) providing power from House Battery. The jumper between the two lower terminals make sure power gets to S and Y from 5A fuse and/or House Battery.

R takes "fuse link" power from the long house battery wire, with the connection under the hood after the diode. I assume this powers the switch if the engine battery is dead (labeled as AUX BAT above).

Y sends 12V+ to the coil of the "Front AUX BAT SW"

and

S sends 12V+ to the coil of the "Rear AUX BAT SW".

I have this wiring diagram https://www.gmcmi.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/78-chassis-electrolevel-II.pdf

This is making me nuts. I may have to take dash apart to pull boost switch to bench test it and related wires.

Thanks,
Paul
Paul, I have the same issue only my battery selector/boost dash switch had burnt wires and it had been disconnected. I now want to resurrect the functionality but not sure what wires to go on the switch connectors. If there was originally a connector block to hold all the wires then mine is long gone.

Thanks for whatever you found out!
Cary Lawson
'75 Glenbrook
 
Paul, I have the same issue only my battery selector/boost dash switch had burnt wires and it had been disconnected. I now want to resurrect the functionality but not sure what wires to go on the switch connectors. If there was originally a connector block to hold all the wires then mine is long gone.

Thanks for whatever you found out!
Cary Lawson
'75 Glenbrook
Clawson, Sent you a PM (conversation)
 
I had mine ceramic coated to reduce the amount of heat radiated off of both the exhaust and intake manifolds. Worked like a charm and looks pretty sweet............