I think you'll just get a touch of humidity in the tank when things cool down at night but nothing you can"t drain once and a while.
1975 GMC Palm Beach Restomod
- Thread starter Mike Perez
- Start date
My original tank was behind the left headlight. I think it will work just fine there. There is a drain at the bottom and I’m installing a water trap between the tank and the valves. Here’s how it came out.
Actually, I'm not. The level of finish for a "show coach" is just not there. If it was a show coach, I would have powder coated the frame. What I am trying to build is a nice looking GMC that takes advantage of many of the technological improvements that we've gained in the last 45 years.
What, you didn't want to sand and skim-coat your crossmember? Instant show disqualification!
Nope, just good ol' Rustoleum Hammered in black. I used in on a roll cage once and liked it so much that I decided to use it on the chassis. Very hard and since it has that hammered look, it hides imperfections a bit.
Stops Rust® Hammered Product Page
Rust-Oleum® Stops Rust® Hammered hides flaws found in scratched, rusted or pitted metals. Apply it directly over rust to metal, wood, concrete and more.
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I finally got the Hydroboost lines and reservoir figured out and mounted. I basically bought Bob Stone's kit, and then didn't use any of it except the booster itself and the cooler. I wasted a fair amount of money just to have Bob's short pedal rod. Everything else I replaced. I wish there would have been an area to mount the reservoir "under the hood", but there was just no place that allowed access to the lid AND also had a good position to allow the return back to the reservoir. I just fabricated a bracket to mount it next to the alternator. There is a replaceable filter inside that PSC reservoir, so I just have to be careful when I do it so I don't make a mess inside the coach.
It’s funny how one thing leads to another. I was trying to figure out the best place to put my horns, and it made me get the front bumper out of storage and mock it up. I’m doing both a front and rear bumper tuck. I think this is as far in as I want to go. It’s probably close to 3 inches, which leaves me a little bit less than 2 inches from the front of the bumper to the body in case of a minor bump, I’d rather hit the bumper than the body. It still needs some minor adjustments which I’ll do after paint and re-chrome.
i'm using the stock shocks. I just drilled a hole in the cylinder to let the gas out and then tapped them in until they were where I like it. Old Hot Rod trick I saw on TV once.
This is the side profile. Still enough room to stand on it and I can still tap something lightly and the shocks will slide in the remaining inch (although no spring back) before the body is impacted. Of course I'm just going to try very hard to not hit anything.
I like it.....it's the one thing that improves/modernizes the look more than anything in my opinion. Never thought of your trick though, thanks for sharing.
I left enough to stand on. Plus, if there isn't enough, Ragusa makes a fold down step that mounts behind the license plate.
I know. If I had more time and manpower, I'd do more....I meant that as a compliment
It is so hot in here already. Working on the intake today. I'm planning on mounting the filter can vertical so I can easily access it from underneath ahead of the wheel well. It should give it a source of reasonably cool air behind the headlight bucket. I have to add a bung to the long tube for the PCV air intake post-Mass Airflow Sensor. A few hangers and that should do it.
I finally got most of the intake tubing finished up. I had to have a bung welded on to the main tube for the crank case ventilation. Also, after beating my head against the wall for a few days, I figured out how to just use the band clamps themselves as hangers with only drilling a couple small holes. Hopefully, if the weather cooperates, I’ll figure out how to mount the air cleaner box tomorrow in front of the front left wheel well.
So today I start the dreaded task of building the engine harness from scratch. I think I have everything I need. The one thing I decided against was trying to match all of the original GM colors. There are just too many. I stumbled upon a tool that you stick a sharpie in, and then pull the wire through the bottom to draw a stripe on it. I have a 24 pack of colored sharpies, so I have that many color options. I'll probably stick with red stripe for power and black stripe for ground. All other sensors will have various colors. I have a very long spreadsheet ready to go that shows where everything will go. I think it is just under 100 wires. Ugh.
