Bathroom light switch

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boybach

boybach

Well-known member
Dec 9, 2020
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I replaced all the OEM interior light fixtures in my coach with duel intensity LEDs several years ago, but kept bathroom fixtures as they were, just swapping out the bulbs to LED as I wanted to retain the 3 position function. As I remember, the length of the unit wasn't easy to match up to a replacement.
The LH fixture rocker switch has always been a bit temperamental, needing a bit of "jiggling", so last week I gave the switch a good squirt of contact cleaner and it seemed better. Yesterday I tried the switch and it didn't work at all - no matter the position.

Can the switch be disassembled and repaired or is that a waste of time? Has anyone replaced the switch with an OEM style if one is still available? I see a bunch of 3 pole switches on amazon and I suppose I could fabricate a mount ...

I don't mind replacing the fixtures either if I can match the dimensions.

Any tips?

Thanks

Larry
 
CRC QD Electronic Contact Cleaner spray. Ten bucks at Amazon, same price for a larger can at Home Depot.
Leave the switch where it is - spray a small amount into the contacts and it should work.

My dad was a radio/radar technician for US Navy (1950-53), always had 'tuner lube' handy.
When his Radio Shack tuner lube finally ran out, found CRC QD was equivalent.

My mom's washing machine quit working 7 years ago. I sprayed some on the timer switch, it's been running fine since then.
 
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Kendra said:
CRC QD Electronic Contact Cleaner spray. Ten bucks at Amazon, same price for a larger can at Home Depot.
Leave the switch where it is - spray a small amount into the contacts and it should work.

My dad was a radio/radar technician for US Navy (1950-53), always had 'tuner lube' handy.
When his Radio Shack tuner lube finally ran out, found CRC QD was equivalent.

My mom's washing machine quit working 7 years ago. I sprayed some on the timer switch, it's been running fine since then.
Click to expand...
I already sprayed it, see my original post :) Thanks anyway!
 
boybach said:
I replaced all the OEM interior light fixtures in my coach with duel intensity LEDs several years ago, but kept bathroom fixtures as they were, just swapping out the bulbs to LED as I wanted to retain the 3 position function. As I remember, the length of the unit wasn't easy to match up to a replacement.
The LH fixture rocker switch has always been a bit temperamental, needing a bit of "jiggling", so last week I gave the switch a good squirt of contact cleaner and it seemed better. Yesterday I tried the switch and it didn't work at all - no matter the position.

Can the switch be disassembled and repaired or is that a waste of time? Has anyone replaced the switch with an OEM style if one is still available? I see a bunch of 3 pole switches on amazon and I suppose I could fabricate a mount ...

I don't mind replacing the fixtures either if I can match the dimensions.

Any tips?

Thanks

Larry
Click to expand...
Here is a link to a spec sheet for a company that make multi-position slide and rocker switches. Your will need to read through to find a switch compatible with your needs. You may need to add a diode or two to make one work. Once you find the part number, look for it on a electronic distributor's site. I would suggest Digikey since they will usually ship single quantities and the shipping and Brokerage fees are only $8.00 Cdn.


Here is a 3 position slide switch with screw mounting tabs for $3.71 Cdn + $8.00 CDN shipping You will need to determine from the spec sheet listed above if it is compatible before ordering.
 
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If it doesn't work at all, I'd say take it apart. It sounds like there's nothing to lose at this point.

I think what prevented me from doing that in the past was seeing they were soldered in, and feeling too lazy to address it at the time. Maybe it's doable in place though. I've taken many switches apart and made them work again over the years. I'd bet you just need to carefully bend some tabs and slowly pry apart watching for the flying bits.
 
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Just what I've observed after swapping all the bulbs out for LED, the switches are more finicky now.

IMO the extremely low current of the LED exasperates the dirty electrical connection in the switch. When they were pulling a full amp the connection would be made, but now they're only a few milliamps.
 
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