So what did you do to your GMC today?

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It's full of chopped glass fiber. I don't think it's as heavily loaded as a typical chopped fiberglass layup, but it's in there. I've roughed up my hands on it enough times.

I do wonder on those little ribs, however, how much chopped fiber ends up down in that portion of the mold? Or is it just the goo that squeezes down into the gaps? I wouldn't be surprised if there were inconsistencies. With the stress concentrations a gas strut would create, it's definitely a good spot for some load-spreading reinforcement.
Someone please ELI5 why gas struts are necessary or even desirable on the GMC compartment doors. The doors are very light and no mechanical assistance is necessary to raise them.

The only concern is holding them open. The OEM method of attaching a short cord to the lower edge of the door and hooking into the window frame above when open is quick, cheap and stress (both types) free.

Gas struts
- limit how far the doors can open.
- inhibit access/movement to the sides.
- frequently damage the doors, breaking the door's stiffening ribs and sometimes causing stress cracks on the face of the doors.
- places undue & unnecessary stress on the OEM door hinges when opening, closing or stationary in the open position.
- cost installation time & money.
- reduces or interferes with battery clearance when pulling out the tray.
 
I have a set of gas struts ready to install for all compartments (other than the hood which uses goofy looking springs - those work great). After reading Richard's post I think I'll skip the struts and stick with simpler methods.
 
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I have a set of gas struts ready to install for all compartments (other than the hood which uses goofy looking springs - those work great). After reading Richard's post I think I'll skip the struts and stick with simpler methods.
I installed the struts because I got tired on having my head bashed when working in to the large compartments on my sailboat. Those hatches initially had chords and hooks to fasten to the lifeline and/or safety rails. However, for one reason or another they often failed and the large hatch came down.
It took me nearly 30 years to install those struts.
When I bought my GMC motorhome, I immediately noticed that the same danger here. I swore that I would not let that ever happen again to me. The coach also a a long wooden prop to hold the hatch open.
It failed!
The only issue is to make certain that the fastening points for the structs be reinforced to be structurally sound.

If you enjoy getting hit in the head, don't install the struts.
 
I have gas struts on both outside rear hatches, and on the inside engine cover. I love it. Turn the latches and the hatch opens all of the way by itself. No down side, no regrets for me.
 
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Finished a dashboard mount for a Starlink Mini on the GMC. Two pins go into the defroster slots to hold it in place.
 

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I installed the struts because I got tired on having my head bashed when working in to the large compartments on my sailboat. Those hatches initially had chords and hooks to fasten to the lifeline and/or safety rails. However, for one reason or another they often failed and the large hatch came down.
It took me nearly 30 years to install those struts.
When I bought my GMC motorhome, I immediately noticed that the same danger here. I swore that I would not let that ever happen again to me. The coach also a a long wooden prop to hold the hatch open.
It failed!
The only issue is to make certain that the fastening points for the structs be reinforced to be structurally sound.

If you enjoy getting hit in the head, don't install the struts.
I don't know about your sailboat setup, but it wouldn't take more than one hatch bashing my head before I'd address the problem.

The Eleganza came with gas struts, and the consequent after the fact reinforcement. I've seen compartments with very different strength & length gas struts, there doesn't seem to be any consensus as to what's optimum.

The compartment doors open further without the struts and the door is more vertical so there's more headroom underneath to work.

Struts
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Cords
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Cord attachment takes a few seconds.
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The cracking doesn't happen without gas struts, and the reinforcement isn't necessary without gas struts.
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As always, your coach, your cash, your call. 🖖
 
Finally got around to building 2 piece ramps from scratch.

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I attached the swing latches (open to a better term) to the front section on one set and the rear section on the other so they'll only go together the correct way. Had to finesse (grind or sand) the splines so they're no longer uniform and interchangeable. Cut the tapers at a lower 40° angle, overall ramp angle remains at 18°.
 
Finally got around to building 2 piece ramps from scratch.

View attachment 18139
View attachment 18140
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I attached the swing latches (open to a better term) to the front section on one set and the rear section on the other so they'll only go together the correct way. Had to finesse (grind or sand) the splines so they're no longer uniform and interchangeable. Cut the tapers at a lower 40° angle, overall ramp angle remains at 18°.

Can anyone else not see these attachments?
 
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We are in Florida. Our last drive we discovered the dash AC not working. Today I checked the refrigerant, got plenty of Duracool. Checked the fuse. Fuse is good. Traced back to the low pressure shut off. The leads had dropped off and found one of the spades broken off at the switch. Could not find a replacement in all of Jacksonville, but was able to find one at an Oreiliys in Clarmont FL. So will get it on Monday when we go back to the park. In the mean time I put a jumper wire across the two terminals so the AC would work until Monday. Should not be a problem running without the switch as it hasn't leaked refrigerant for over 4 years. Just glad I got AC for trip back to Clarmont with temps in the upper 80's
 
Finally got around to building 2 piece ramps from scratch.

View attachment 18139
View attachment 18140
View attachment 18141

I attached the swing latches (open to a better term) to the front section on one set and the rear section on the other so they'll only go together the correct way. Had to finesse (grind or sand) the splines so they're no longer uniform and interchangeable. Cut the tapers at a lower 40° angle, overall ramp angle remains at 18°.
Not sure what happened and why the photos didn't get posted. My apologies. Trying again.

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Also made some cribbing pyramids for the front end.
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