Painting roof

Billygoat

Billygoat

Active member
Jan 9, 2022
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Kansas City Missouri
Well, I’m lining up more projects and the next one is some-kind of paint job for her. As I’ve heard the cost of a paint job i’m trying to do the up front prep to get it ready for the overall paint job. My thought would be to do the sealing and fiberglass work before the roof gets painted. I have been considering the micro fiber roller and backbrush method or would a sprayer be better?
Also, my leaks in the past seem to be coming from front windshields and side windows as well as the back windows from somewhere. I know the awning side gutters are a issue but mine look like they are in decent shape but I could provide pictures to allow more experience eyes than mine to determine that. My other water sealing question is for the front and back fiberglass to aluminum seam. They again look pretty decent but I can take pictures. My question is, if I were to redo the seal do i dig it all out or simply lay another sealing bead over whats already there after cleaning them?

Oh PS: I forgot to ask if there is anything special on these rubber grommets on the luggage carrier, thought I’d clean it up and put new ones in.
Thanks,
Tom
 

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IMO an inexpensive sprayer from HarborFreight will do a better job than a roller if you take a little time to practice with it.

A common leak point are the 'rails', which is the extruded strip that has the factory drip edge on it, transitioning from the roof the side walls. The original seal between the rail and the roof was just a strip of foam tape. On mine, all that remained was some black dust which used to be foam, and the residue of the adhesive. After 50 years that's all that was left. Water was able to enter under the rail, get into the joint and then travel forward or aft depending on how the coach was parked (nose up or nose down). The water would exit the extrusion at either the front or rear near the edge of the ceiling cap.

Removing the rail to seat that joint is a pain. Getting the screws out without breaking them is a challenge. Today, I might tape off that joint and simply apply lap sealant on the roof tbh. It was a job.

Roof running lights are also prone to leaking. Be careful not to pull too hard on the wires if you try to remove them to reseal them, the bullet connector will disconnect above the interior end cap and then you have to remove the inside cap to reconnect the wires. Also note that if you replace with LED these wires are occasionally polarity reversed, so check the voltage before terminating the light onto the wire.

My brand new windshield is leaking at the gasket. There's a liquid product that can be applied and it will flow down into the joint to repel water. I'm planning to apply this. Also the rear window.

I'm also planning to paint my coach at home myself. I will start with the roof as well.
 
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tmsnyder said:
IMO an inexpensive sprayer from HarborFreight will do a better job than a roller if you take a little time to practice with it.

A common leak point are the 'rails', which is the extruded strip that has the factory drip edge on it, transitioning from the roof the side walls. The original seal between the rail and the roof was just a strip of foam tape. On mine, all that remained was some black dust which used to be foam, and the residue of the adhesive. After 50 years that's all that was left. Water was able to enter under the rail, get into the joint and then travel forward or aft depending on how the coach was parked (nose up or nose down). The water would exit the extrusion at either the front or rear near the edge of the ceiling cap.

Removing the rail to seat that joint is a pain. Getting the screws out without breaking them is a challenge. Today, I might tape off that joint and simply apply lap sealant on the roof tbh. It was a job.

Roof running lights are also prone to leaking. Be careful not to pull too hard on the wires if you try to remove them to reseal them, the bullet connector will disconnect above the interior end cap and then you have to remove the inside cap to reconnect the wires. Also note that if you replace with LED these wires are occasionally polarity reversed, so check the voltage before terminating the light onto the wire.

My brand new windshield is leaking at the gasket. There's a liquid product that can be applied and it will flow down into the joint to repel water. I'm planning to apply this. Also the rear window.

I'm also planning to paint my coach at home myself. I will start with the roof as well.
Click to expand...
I’m been reading about that sprayer at harbor freight! I really was thinking I would hear this as an answer. Thank you so much on your response, it will be very helpful for me. I really plan on getting the coach over here at the house and pull the awnings off and really make a good assessment on the rails. If I have to tackle that job then I’ll have to hit up my nephew for his storage barn to do it iver the winter. I want to do the right job on it, dam my german stubborness! Lol.

Thanks again!
TG
 
tmsnyder said:
My brand new windshield is leaking at the gasket. There's a liquid product that can be applied and it will flow down into the joint to repel water. I'm planning to apply this. Also the rear window.
Click to expand...
Several owners have had gaps in the top of the windshield opening flange that may leak, particularly over the steering wheel.
 
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tmsnyder said:
IMO an inexpensive sprayer from HarborFreight will do a better job than a roller if you take a little time to practice with it.

A common leak point are the 'rails', which is the extruded strip that has the factory drip edge on it, transitioning from the roof the side walls. The original seal between the rail and the roof was just a strip of foam tape. On mine, all that remained was some black dust which used to be foam, and the residue of the adhesive. After 50 years that's all that was left. Water was able to enter under the rail, get into the joint and then travel forward or aft depending on how the coach was parked (nose up or nose down). The water would exit the extrusion at either the front or rear near the edge of the ceiling cap.

Removing the rail to seat that joint is a pain. Getting the screws out without breaking them is a challenge. Today, I might tape off that joint and simply apply lap sealant on the roof tbh. It was a job.

Roof running lights are also prone to leaking. Be careful not to pull too hard on the wires if you try to remove them to reseal them, the bullet connector will disconnect above the interior end cap and then you have to remove the inside cap to reconnect the wires. Also note that if you replace with LED these wires are occasionally polarity reversed, so check the voltage before terminating the light onto the wire.

My brand new windshield is leaking at the gasket. There's a liquid product that can be applied and it will flow down into the joint to repel water. I'm planning to apply this. Also the rear window.

I'm also planning to paint my coach at home myself. I will start with the roof as well.
Click to expand...
Kinda wondering on the rail as well. Guess I’ll access when I get the awning off.
I was wondering what tape or sealant you guys use for all the screw holes ecposed as I remove hardware on the roof. I’m working on a garage space to put it in before I really dig into the roof painting, but there might be a time or two it could be out in the elements. Just wondered what best to use to plug the leak holes exposed.

PS: I’ve been trying to find detail information on the roof rails to understand how the rail seam system was put together to understand how it keeps water out but not finding much in manual. Maybe I’m looking in the wrong places?

TG
 
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Ok, as I’m reading and researching the roof rails. I understand this will be a pain to do but if it does I’ll go through it. What I’m not understanding is whats the re-assembly process? Are there improvements when this gets cleaned up and re-done? Like laying down some better sealing products and what kind of screws to use to prevent rusting or seizing up of the screws?

TG
 
Billygoat said:
Well, I’m lining up more projects and the next one is some-kind of paint job for her. As I’ve heard the cost of a paint job i’m trying to do the up front prep to get it ready for the overall paint job. My thought would be to do the sealing and fiberglass work before the roof gets painted. I have been considering the micro fiber roller and backbrush method or would a sprayer be better?
Also, my leaks in the past seem to be coming from front windshields and side windows as well as the back windows from somewhere. I know the awning side gutters are a issue but mine look like they are in decent shape but I could provide pictures to allow more experience eyes than mine to determine that. My other water sealing question is for the front and back fiberglass to aluminum seam. They again look pretty decent but I can take pictures. My question is, if I were to redo the seal do i dig it all out or simply lay another sealing bead over whats already there after cleaning them?

Oh PS: I forgot to ask if there is anything special on these rubber grommets on the luggage carrier, thought I’d clean it up and put new ones in.
Thanks,
Tom
Click to expand...
There is another way to paint a coach.

It is called "roll & tip", often a do it yourself 2 person job that requires less preparation and masking.


I have seen many people do this and have done it to add a wide black stripe near the waterline.

IMG_0048.webp
There is another trick. For striping, 3M had a special product that I used. It appeared to be a double sided yellow tape with a removable clear tape on one side. I used it for the yellow stripe, adhered to the hull and pulled off the clear cover tape. That was about 30 years ago. Both are still on her hull.
I don't know if the 3M tape is still available.
It yellow stripe is not tape. It is actually paint that cures when it is exposed to the atmosphere. It never faded.
Like paint,a physical scape can harm it and it has happened sometimes. Since I had some of this tape left over, I snapped off the tape from the damaged area and added a small section of the paint tape. Worked like a charm.
 
sailor man said:
There is another way to paint a coach.

It is called "roll & tip", often a do it yourself 2 person job that requires less preparation and masking.


I have seen many people do this and have done it to add a wide black stripe near the waterline.

View attachment 16140
There is another trick. For striping, 3M had a special product that I used. It appeared to be a double sided yellow tape with a removable clear tape on one side. I used it for the yellow stripe, adhered to the hull and pulled off the clear cover tape. That was about 30 years ago. Both are still on her hull.
I don't know if the 3M tape is still available.
It yellow stripe is not tape. It is actually paint that cures when it is exposed to the atmosphere. It never faded.
Like paint,a physical scape can harm it and it has happened sometimes. Since I had some of this tape left over, I snapped off the tape from the damaged area and added a small section of the paint tape. Worked like a charm.
Click to expand...
Thanks sailorman, I’ll read through this. I’m kinda debating this on which way to go. My gut tells me this method might be more controllable with all thats going on up on the roof. I was thinking rattle or spray gun areas where it would be better coverage say around the side caps but use this method out on the flat areas but have not decided on it yet.

Thank u
TG
 
Billygoat said:
Thanks sailorman, I’ll read through this. I’m kinda debating this on which way to go. My gut tells me this method might be more controllable with all thats going on up on the roof. I was thinking rattle or spray gun areas where it would be better coverage say around the side caps but use this method out on the flat areas but have not decided on it yet.

Thank u
TG
Click to expand...
I was able to do the stripe by myself/ The trick is use thinner periodically to keep the paint from starting to solidify. Since it is done in sections. the edge that will be start of the next section needs to still be wets and has not yet started to cure.
I think that I used Interlux Brightside but I think that their current product is Toplac Plus.
 
Billygoat said:
Well, I’m lining up more projects and the next one is some-kind of paint job for her. As I’ve heard the cost of a paint job i’m trying to do the up front prep to get it ready for the overall paint job. My thought would be to do the sealing and fiberglass work before the roof gets painted. I have been considering the micro fiber roller and backbrush method or would a sprayer be better?
Also, my leaks in the past seem to be coming from front windshields and side windows as well as the back windows from somewhere. I know the awning side gutters are a issue but mine look like they are in decent shape but I could provide pictures to allow more experience eyes than mine to determine that. My other water sealing question is for the front and back fiberglass to aluminum seam. They again look pretty decent but I can take pictures. My question is, if I were to redo the seal do i dig it all out or simply lay another sealing bead over whats already there after cleaning them?

Oh PS: I forgot to ask if there is anything special on these rubber grommets on the luggage carrier, thought I’d clean it up and put new ones in.
Thanks,
Tom
Click to expand...
Just found these at Lowes and they fit the bill!
 

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