>
>Scott,
> The above brought to mind an idea that's been rattling around in my brain
>for a while. Since the main weakness of "three-bearing" or "wide-spaced-
>bearing" front hubs seems to be the danger of weakening the hub by machining
>it down to accomodate the outermost bearing, why not make up a totally new hub
>with a longer shank? This would not only provide additional bearing surface,
>but might be used to move the wheel outward a couple inches to align with the
>rears, similar to what some are doing with offset wheels.
> The main complication would be attaching the unmodified (relatively short-
>nosed) axle shaft to the hub, but some sort of small-hex high-strength nut
>might do it down in the hole. Of course one would need an outboard housing
>bolted to the knuckle to support the OD of the outer bearing, probably using
>the existing bearing retainer bolt holes.
> Seems this would kill 2 birds, moving the wheels outboard, but without
>overloading the bearings the way offset wheels do.
> This is "harebrained scheme #397". Any comments out there? Think your
>hub-forger would be interested, Scott? Zak, Jim, and other engineering types:
>could this work?
>
It's a possible solution for making more room for bearings. But, the hub is just the first few worms in a pretty big can of
worms when you start changing the geometry.
You'd need to calculate the additional stresses placed on the inboard components - like ball joints and the steering gear.
It's worth a look though.
Henry
Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (408) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com
>Scott,
> The above brought to mind an idea that's been rattling around in my brain
>for a while. Since the main weakness of "three-bearing" or "wide-spaced-
>bearing" front hubs seems to be the danger of weakening the hub by machining
>it down to accomodate the outermost bearing, why not make up a totally new hub
>with a longer shank? This would not only provide additional bearing surface,
>but might be used to move the wheel outward a couple inches to align with the
>rears, similar to what some are doing with offset wheels.
> The main complication would be attaching the unmodified (relatively short-
>nosed) axle shaft to the hub, but some sort of small-hex high-strength nut
>might do it down in the hole. Of course one would need an outboard housing
>bolted to the knuckle to support the OD of the outer bearing, probably using
>the existing bearing retainer bolt holes.
> Seems this would kill 2 birds, moving the wheels outboard, but without
>overloading the bearings the way offset wheels do.
> This is "harebrained scheme #397". Any comments out there? Think your
>hub-forger would be interested, Scott? Zak, Jim, and other engineering types:
>could this work?
>
It's a possible solution for making more room for bearings. But, the hub is just the first few worms in a pretty big can of
worms when you start changing the geometry.
You'd need to calculate the additional stresses placed on the inboard components - like ball joints and the steering gear.
It's worth a look though.
Henry
Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (408) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com