Without an APC, what wires can get damaged?

D

dave stragand1

New member
Oct 10, 2017
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Hi All,

First off, let me say I have already purchased my APC cable. (It was the first thing I bought for the coach, actually).

My question is, without the APC, what wires could burn up in the dash, and where are they located? I’m trying to sort out the mystery of many previous-owner-run wires and missing wires in the engine compartment (like the missing wire at my combination valve, different wire to temperature sender, etc) and wondered if that may have been one of the reasons. I always prefer going back and fixing things right when I can.

-Dave
1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
 
> Hi All,
>
> First off, let me say I have already purchased my APC cable. (It was the first thing I bought for the coach, actually).
>
> My question is, without the APC, what wires could burn up in the dash, and where are they located? I'm trying to sort out the mystery of many
> previous-owner-run wires and missing wires in the engine compartment (like the missing wire at my combination valve, different wire to temperature
> sender, etc) and wondered if that may have been one of the reasons. I always prefer going back and fixing things right when I can.
>
> -Dave
> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

I would guess pretty much be all the wires in the bundle in the dash. When the wire gets hot enough to get the other wires to start shorting out to
ground. I think Bounds had a coach in his shop some years ago that most of the wiring in the dash was fused together.
if the PO had the problem the melted wires in the dash will be evident.

--
Tom Lins
Elkton, FL
77 GM Rear Twin, Dry Bath, 455
Manuals on DVD
http://www.bdub.net/tomlins/
 
Dave,

If you check the chassis wiring diagram, you'll see a lead from the
ignition switch to the alternator labelled with "10.0 Ohms +- 10%"; it's
brown with a white lead. If you find that wire at the left side of the
main circuit breaker panel behind the glove box, you can rotate the wire
between your thumb and forefinger. You'll notice that the insulation will
"slide around" on the wire, indicating that it's a single conductor -- NOT
spiral wound. That's a Nichrome wire, just like in and old fashioned
glowing-wire electric heater. Certain failures of the alternator can cause
that wire to see 100+ volts and glow red hot, just like those heaters.
Imagine the effect on the other wires in that 1"-1 1/2" bundle of wires!
Yep, it's that bad -- or worse.

A lot of different fixes for that have been used, but Gene Fisher's
Alternator Protection Cable (APC) has proven to be the simplest, most
effective preventative.

Ken H
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, Troy-Bilt APU, etc., etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com

On Fri, Jun 22, 2018 at 9:40 PM Dave Stragand
wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> First off, let me say I have already purchased my APC cable. (It was the
> first thing I bought for the coach, actually).
>
> My question is, without the APC, what wires could burn up in the dash, and
> where are they located? I’m trying to sort out the mystery of many
> previous-owner-run wires and missing wires in the engine compartment (like
> the missing wire at my combination valve, different wire to temperature
> sender, etc) and wondered if that may have been one of the reasons. I
> always prefer going back and fixing things right when I can.
>
> -Dave
> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
This happened to me about 2000 or 2001 when I was on a trip to San Jose Calif to visit my daughter.
I was driving in the evening when I started to smell smoke from the dash in front of the passenger seat.
My turn signals and brake lights also failed to work.
I was close to my daughter’s apartment so I got there and then could not turn off the engine or the headlights.
I finally pulled a battery cable to shut things down.

In the morning I called Henry Davis in Santa Cruz (who is an electrical genius). He suggested that I take it over to Manny Trovao’s house and he would meet us there.

We found that the bundle of perhaps 20 wires running from the instrument panel across the dash under the padding on the passenger side had all melted together.
We had to cut out some of the hard plastic below the windshield to be able to pull the wire bundle forward.
It took the three of us about 10 hours of work to repair things. All the wires had to be cut and new pieces of wire soldered in to replace the burnt sections.

The cause was a shorted diode in the alternator which allowed a back current - possibly high voltage AC.

I was probably the first one to report this problem. Since then there have been a few others.
Gene Fisher developed his APC (alternator protection cable) to prevent this. If you don’t have one on your GMC you should get one immediately.

Sone after my problem Terry Skinner had the same problem. Gene fisher got his bad alternator and did sone testing. He brought it to an alternator shop and asked them to test it. When they reved up the alternator on their test stand it burst into flames.
Gene took it home and took it apart himself and found a bad diode.
Dave Mumert also did testing and found that it took about 100 volts down the nichrome wire back to the battery to burn the wires.
I believe Bruce Hannover also had the problem and did some testing.
There are quite a few emails on the GMC net archives prior to 2005 about this problem.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

>
> Hi All,
>
> First off, let me say I have already purchased my APC cable. (It was the first thing I bought for the coach, actually).
>
> My question is, without the APC, what wires could burn up in the dash, and where are they located? I’m trying to sort out the mystery of many previous-owner-run wires and missing wires in the engine compartment (like the missing wire at my combination valve, different wire to temperature sender, etc) and wondered if that may have been one of the reasons. I always prefer going back and fixing things right when I can.
>
> -Dave
> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Based on my experience, the APC protects against most failures related to
the nichrome wire, but not all. The wire is there to provide
current-limited load on the alternator to excite the field winding and get
the alternator going. But the wire itself is needed. You can cut it and
replace it with a current-limiting resistor. See the linked diagram:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/10-ohm-alternator-wire-77-2f78-models/p3731-apc-cable-circuit.html

Earlier coaches didn’t have the diode at the top.

I didn’t have a resistor when Ken H and I fixed my alternator at Bean
Station a few years ago, so we used a light-bulb harness and light bulb,
which is still lighting up a spot behind my glove box.

Rick “who bought the resistor but still hasn’t installed it” Denney

On Fri, Jun 22, 2018 at 9:40 PM Dave Stragand
wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> First off, let me say I have already purchased my APC cable. (It was the
> first thing I bought for the coach, actually).
>
> My question is, without the APC, what wires could burn up in the dash, and
> where are they located? I’m trying to sort out the mystery of many
> previous-owner-run wires and missing wires in the engine compartment (like
> the missing wire at my combination valve, different wire to temperature
> sender, etc) and wondered if that may have been one of the reasons. I
> always prefer going back and fixing things right when I can.
>
> -Dave
> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Rick Denney
73 x-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Off-list email to rick at rickdenney dot com
 
Rick's note may stimulate questions, so I'll try to short-stop them now:
Before Gene Fisher, with Dave Mumert's cooperation, determined that the
simple single diode APC should be a 100% fix for the Nichrome wire problem,
we used a more complex fix: The wiring diagram shows that wire to have a
resistance of 10.0+-10% Ohms. So, some of us CUT OUT the Nichrome wire and
replaced it with an equivalent fixed power resistor and copper wire. Or
even the resistor plus a diode. Or, as in Rick's case, a light bulb
drawing about 1.2 Amps. In my case, I used the diode+resistor and an
aluminum-cased power resistor; they're both still in place after 15 years
or so. Some folks, including Jim Bounds, apparently didn't see the "." in
"10.0" so install(ed) 100 Ohm resistors. That works, but causes another
minor problem: the alternator may well not begin to produce current until
the engine RPMs reach 1500+, where the residual magnetism in the
alternator's field is sufficient for initial excitation.

Another "fix", which I've done since converting from an isolator to a
combiner to separate my batteries, is to convert the alternator to "single
wire". That is, simply connect terminal 1 of the alternator to its output
stud. "Single wire" is obviously a misnomer since the #2 terminal, remote
sense, is still there, though now redundant without an isolator diode in
the circuit. This "fix" does impose a small parasitic current drain
through the new connection.

There's lots more history to this, but probably no longer of interest to
most folks.

Ken H.

> Based on my experience, the APC protects against most failures related to
> the nichrome wire, but not all. The wire is there to provide
> current-limited load on the alternator to excite the field winding and get
> the alternator going. But the wire itself is needed. You can cut it and
> replace it with a current-limiting resistor. See the linked diagram:
>
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/10-ohm-alternator-wire-77-2f78-models/p3731-apc-cable-circuit.html
>
> Earlier coaches didn’t have the diode at the top.
>
> I didn’t have a resistor when Ken H and I fixed my alternator at Bean
> Station a few years ago, so we used a light-bulb harness and light bulb,
> which is still lighting up a spot behind my glove box.
>
> Rick “who bought the resistor but still hasn’t installed it” Denney
>
> On Fri, Jun 22, 2018 at 9:40 PM Dave Stragand <
> dave.stragand>

>
> > Hi All,
> >
> > First off, let me say I have already purchased my APC cable. (It was the
> > first thing I bought for the coach, actually).
> >
> > My question is, without the APC, what wires could burn up in the dash,
> and
> > where are they located? I’m trying to sort out the mystery of many
> > previous-owner-run wires and missing wires in the engine compartment
> (like
> > the missing wire at my combination valve, different wire to temperature
> > sender, etc) and wondered if that may have been one of the reasons. I
> > always prefer going back and fixing things right when I can.
> >
> > -Dave
> > 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> --
> Rick Denney
> 73 x-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
> Off-list email to rick at rickdenney dot com
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I'm guily of the 'hundred Ohm Syndrome'. It will work with the hundred in the line, just slow to start. 10 Ohms works quite well, even though it
doesn't have the 'ballast' characteristic. Doesn't seem to miss it.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
So what about like a 20 Ohm or something between 10 and 100 that is the max value that causes no delay minus a buffer value. The higher the value the
less current has to be dissipated during an alternator Three Mile Island event.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
John,

My advice is to just install the APC. I don't recall the rationale behind
the conclusion that it's a 100% fix, but I do know that I've heard of a
glowing Nichrome wire with an APC installed. That covers the 10+ years
that Mr. ERF's been supplying them. If you insist on installing a fixed
resistor, I just stick with the 10 Ohms, but would definitely include a
diode. Speaking of which, I erred in my earlier posting: The APC's diode
is 1000 PIV, not 600 PIV (400 PIV should be more than enough).

Ken H.

On Sat, Jun 23, 2018 at 4:39 PM John R. Lebetski
wrote:

> So what about like a 20 Ohm or something between 10 and 100 that is the
> max value that causes no delay minus a buffer value. The higher the value
> the
> less current has to be dissipated during an alternator Three Mile Island
> event.
> --
>
>
 
It costs me money every time I ship one but every gmc needs one 😀. Tag
line

On Sat, Jun 23, 2018 at 1:49 PM Ken Henderson
wrote:

> John,
>
> My advice is to just install the APC. I don't recall the rationale behind
> the conclusion that it's a 100% fix, but I do know that I've heard of a
> glowing Nichrome wire with an APC installed. That covers the 10+ years
> that Mr. ERF's been supplying them. If you insist on installing a fixed
> resistor, I just stick with the 10 Ohms, but would definitely include a
> diode. Speaking of which, I erred in my earlier posting: The APC's diode
> is 1000 PIV, not 600 PIV (400 PIV should be more than enough).
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Sat, Jun 23, 2018 at 4:39 PM John R. Lebetski

>
> > So what about like a 20 Ohm or something between 10 and 100 that is the
> > max value that causes no delay minus a buffer value. The higher the
> value
> > the
> > less current has to be dissipated during an alternator Three Mile Island
> > event.
> > --
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
 
> It costs me money every time I ship one but every gmc needs one 😀. Tag
> line
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 23, 2018 at 1:49 PM Ken Henderson

>
>> John,
>>
>> My advice is to just install the APC. I don't recall the rationale behind
>> the conclusion that it's a 100% fix, but I do know that I've heard of a
>> glowing Nichrome wire with an APC installed. That covers the 10+ years
>> that Mr. ERF's been supplying them. If you insist on installing a fixed
>> resistor, I just stick with the 10 Ohms, but would definitely include a
>> diode. Speaking of which, I erred in my earlier posting: The APC's diode
>> is 1000 PIV, not 600 PIV (400 PIV should be more than enough).
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 23, 2018 at 4:39 PM John R. Lebetski > >

>>
>> > So what about like a 20 Ohm or something between 10 and 100 that is the
>> > max value that causes no delay minus a buffer value. The higher the
>> value
>> > the
>> > less current has to be dissipated during an alternator Three Mile Island
>> > event.
>> > --
>> >
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> --
> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
> -------
> http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
> Alternator Protection Cable
> http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.ht http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html ml
>


--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
 
This may sound like a crazy question. What do they look like and how can I tell if I have one already?

Gary Coaster / Reno, NV
1977 GMC Eleganza ll
GMC RV Day Night Shade Sales
GMCShades
www.GMCMotorhomemarketplace.com/GMC_Shades/

>
> It costs me money every time I ship one but every gmc needs one 😀. Tag
> line
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 23, 2018 at 1:49 PM Ken Henderson

>
>> John,
>>
>> My advice is to just install the APC. I don't recall the rationale behind
>> the conclusion that it's a 100% fix, but I do know that I've heard of a
>> glowing Nichrome wire with an APC installed. That covers the 10+ years
>> that Mr. ERF's been supplying them. If you insist on installing a fixed
>> resistor, I just stick with the 10 Ohms, but would definitely include a
>> diode. Speaking of which, I erred in my earlier posting: The APC's diode
>> is 1000 PIV, not 600 PIV (400 PIV should be more than enough).
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 23, 2018 at 4:39 PM John R. Lebetski

>>
>>> So what about like a 20 Ohm or something between 10 and 100 that is the
>>> max value that causes no delay minus a buffer value. The higher the
>> value
>>> the
>>> less current has to be dissipated during an alternator Three Mile Island
>>> event.
>>> --
>>>
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> --
> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
> -------
> http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
> Alternator Protection Cable
> http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
This is the APC
http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/557

Only Jim K. calls it ASP (Alternator safety Cable)

> This may sound like a crazy question. What do they look like and how can I
> tell if I have one already?
>
> Gary Coaster / Reno, NV
> 1977 GMC Eleganza ll
> GMC RV Day Night Shade Sales
> GMCShades
> www.GMCMotorhomemarketplace.com/GMC_Shades/
>

> >
> > It costs me money every time I ship one but every gmc needs one 😀. Tag
> > line
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Jun 23, 2018 at 1:49 PM Ken Henderson

> >
> >> John,
> >>
> >> My advice is to just install the APC. I don't recall the rationale
> behind
> >> the conclusion that it's a 100% fix, but I do know that I've heard of a
> >> glowing Nichrome wire with an APC installed. That covers the 10+ years
> >> that Mr. ERF's been supplying them. If you insist on installing a fixed
> >> resistor, I just stick with the 10 Ohms, but would definitely include a
> >> diode. Speaking of which, I erred in my earlier posting: The APC's
> diode
> >> is 1000 PIV, not 600 PIV (400 PIV should be more than enough).
> >>
> >> Ken H.
> >>
> >> On Sat, Jun 23, 2018 at 4:39 PM John R. Lebetski <
> gransport7087>

> >>
> >>> So what about like a 20 Ohm or something between 10 and 100 that is the
> >>> max value that causes no delay minus a buffer value. The higher the
> >> value
> >>> the
> >>> less current has to be dissipated during an alternator Three Mile
> Island
> >>> event.
> >>> --
> >>>
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >>
> > --
> > Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
> > “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
> > -------
> > http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
> > Alternator Protection Cable
> > http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
> Based on my experience, the APC protects against most failures related to
> the nichrome wire, but not all. The wire is there to provide
> current-limited load on the alternator to excite the field winding and get
> the alternator going. But the wire itself is needed. You can cut it and
> replace it with a current-limiting resistor. See the linked diagram:
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/10-ohm-alternator-wire-77-2f78-models/p3731-apc-cable-circuit.html
>
> Earlier coaches didn't have the diode at the top.
>
> I didn't have a resistor when Ken H and I fixed my alternator at Bean
> Station a few years ago, so we used a light-bulb harness and light bulb,
> which is still lighting up a spot behind my glove box.

I think the change from mechanical to HE ignition has something todo with this new diode. I seem to recall updating an old car to HE from mechanical
ignition. it started up great but the alt light was on but dim and then when I went to turn off the key, the engine kept running.. ended up putting a
diode in that same line IIRC to solve it.

if you removed that diode from a '77 or '78 you would probably not be able to turn the engine off.

but I still cant believe they thought that nichrome wire was a good idea.. now I wonder if that is just a GMC MH deal or do other old GM cars also use
it?
 
JIM k makes his own cables , and he does several things that cause failures

> > Based on my experience, the APC protects against most failures related to
> > the nichrome wire, but not all. The wire is there to provide
> > current-limited load on the alternator to excite the field winding and
> get
> > the alternator going. But the wire itself is needed. You can cut it and
> > replace it with a current-limiting resistor. See the linked diagram:
> >
> >
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/10-ohm-alternator-wire-77-2f78-models/p3731-apc-cable-circuit.html
> >
> > Earlier coaches didn't have the diode at the top.
> >
> > I didn't have a resistor when Ken H and I fixed my alternator at Bean
> > Station a few years ago, so we used a light-bulb harness and light bulb,
> > which is still lighting up a spot behind my glove box.
>
>
> I think the change from mechanical to HE ignition has something todo with
> this new diode. I seem to recall updating an old car to HE from mechanical
> ignition. it started up great but the alt light was on but dim and then
> when I went to turn off the key, the engine kept running.. ended up putting
> a
> diode in that same line IIRC to solve it.
>
> if you removed that diode from a '77 or '78 you would probably not be able
> to turn the engine off.
>
> but I still cant believe they thought that nichrome wire was a good idea..
> now I wonder if that is just a GMC MH deal or do other old GM cars also use
> it?
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
 
essentially, a DIYr should just install a 10 cent/ 10 ohm diode in line right at the altenator. correct?
 
Read here
http://www.gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html

Read all the links,then see how best to spend your time, and is it worth
the risk 😀

> essentially, a DIYr should just install a 10 cent/ 10 ohm diode in line
> right at the altenator. correct?
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
 
I suspect any DIYer using a "10 Ohm diode" would screw the whole thing up,
since in 50 years of EE experience, I've never heard of such a thing.

Ken H.

> essentially, a DIYr should just install a 10 cent/ 10 ohm diode in line
> right at the altenator. correct?
>
>
 
> I suspect any DIYer using a "10 Ohm diode" would screw the whole thing up,
> since in 50 years of EE experience, I've never heard of such a thing

so youre saying 'incorrect' then, correct?

lol

be kinda hard to screw it up any more then GMC did in this case apparently. especially with something that dont exist.

all this "ABC APC" hype is BS too. why not just call it what it is? a inline diode adaptor/cable/gizmo/whatever (and call it amps too then, if it
makes ya happy)

and it doesnt really protect the alternator, it protects the nichrome wire. Co wrekt?

> Read here
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html
>
> Read all the links,then see how best to spend your time, and is it worth
> the risk
 
This has all the appearances of a C.F. of the highest magnitude. The only
way to win, is not to play the game.
Jim Hupy ( home from the hospital, all charged up with iron, bleeding ulcer
under control)
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

> > I suspect any DIYer using a "10 Ohm diode" would screw the whole thing
> up,
> > since in 50 years of EE experience, I've never heard of such a thing
>
>
> so youre saying 'incorrect' then, correct?
>
> lol
>
> be kinda hard to screw it up any more then GMC did in this case
> apparently. especially with something that dont exist.
>
> all this "ABC APC" hype is BS too. why not just call it what it is? a
> inline diode adaptor/cable/gizmo/whatever (and call it amps too then, if it
> makes ya happy)
>
> and it doesnt really protect the alternator, it protects the nichrome
> wire. Co wrekt?
>

> > Read here
> > http://www.gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html
> >
> > Read all the links,then see how best to spend your time, and is it worth
> > the risk
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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