Winterizing

[loren \(skip\) newhouse]

Today the temperature got to 76 degrees in Western Maryland. I know it
won't last. I need to winterize my '75 GMC Avion for the first time.
Does any GMC'er have a winterizing check list they are willing to share?
Thanx,
Skip Newhouse

 

[chuck blanford]

I don't have a list, but I will share with you what I do in North Idaho,
where it does get down to 20 F. below at times.

I drain all tanks (holding, hot water, fresh water) and I have an air
adapter that screws into the city water connection. I apply low pressure
air (< 35 psi) and blow out all of the water lines by opening the faucets
individually. I always leave at least one faucet open, or the hot water
drain valve, so that there is no chance of building up to much pressure and
rupturing a line. I cycle through the various faucets and the toilet fill
valve, so that each line is clear of water. I then dump enough RV
anti-freeze in each of the traps to displace the water in the "goosenecks".
I don't know if the plumbing is original, but I can switch a valve and drain
the fresh water tank through the floor by the water pump. The hot water
tank has a hose connected to the drain valve, and that exits through the
wheel well.

I change the oil and filter after the last use of the season so it "winters
over" with fresh oil.

I disconnect and remove the batteries, and put the new solid state trickle
chargers on them. These devices supposedly monitor the needed charge, and
do not overcharge.

I raise the rear to it's max height (via the air bags) and then lower it
onto blocks positioned under the jacking point. This removes the pressure
from the bags, and reduces the "hot-dogging" effect. I also partially raise
the front, and position jack stands. This is primarily to level the coach,
and to "unload" the torsion bars somewhat - the front tires are still on the
ground and bearing some weight.

I prop the refrigerator and freezer doors open to allow air to circulate and
avoid the musty smell.

I remove the schrader valve from the air tank, so any accumulated moisture
can drain.

This coach is stored indoors, so I don't have to do any additional work re.
covering, sealing the air conditioner, air vents, etc.

This approach has worked for me without any problems; YMMV.

Chuck
77K

- -----Original Message-----
From: John Dolan
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Sunday, December 06, 1998 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: Winterizing

>>Does any GMC'er have a winterizing check list they are willing to share?
>
>Now there is a question I wish I had asked before I tried to do it myself
>the first time. I am listening closely...
>
>--
>Regards,
>John 74 Glacier near Washington, DC.
>

 

[john dolan]

>Does any GMC'er have a winterizing check list they are willing to share?

Now there is a question I wish I had asked before I tried to do it myself
the first time. I am listening closely...

- --
Regards,
John 74 Glacier near Washington, DC.

 

[loren \(skip\) newhouse]

> Thanks for the info Chuck and Justin. Sound about like what I did each winter
> with our sailboat. Didn't know if I should remove the batteries. Thanks again

Skip Newhouse'75 Avion
Western MD

 

[david sandford]

I take no one uses the "original" draining system that is built into the
GMC's. The valves are a bit tricky to find, but both the hot and cold water
lines are equipped with a drain valve for each faucet, in addition to the
toilet. There should be seven valves all told, Kitchen sink, bathroom sink,
Water heater, and toilet. At least the two GMC's that I have experience
with were so equipped. These valves seem to do a pretty good job of letting
the lines drain as long as everything is done in a systematic manner.

I suspect I may have started a "Easter egg hunt."

good luck

Dave

- -----Original Message-----
From: EMERYSTORA
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Thursday, December 10, 1998 2:52 AM
Subject: Re: GMC: Winterizing

>I used to try to blow out the lines but find it much easier to pump RV
>antifreeze (propylene glycol -- DO NOT use ethylene glycol as its toxic!!!)
>through the lines. I had made my own set up of valves to the tank side of
the
>water pump but just this year purchased one from Campers World that has a
>three way valve that has a hose connection on the valve. Just turn the
>valve, put the hose into the bottle of antifreeze and go to each faucet and
>run the water until it turns red (the color of the antifreeze) Run the
toilet
>and the shower hose as well. Pour a half cup down each drain (kitchen
sink,
>shower and bath sink)It takes less that 1 gallon. Prior to doing this be
>sure to have a bypass system on your water heater. The old style had three
>valves. Campers World now have one that has a single valve and a check
valve.
>Drain the water heater and the water tank and you are winterized. When
you
>are ready to use the GMC just fill the water tank, move the valve by the
pump
>to normal use and open the heater bypass and run your water until it is
clear.
>

 

[chuck will]

Is this really necessary? I used nitrogen to dry the lines and had no problems at
all. The GMC sat in Utah for 5 winter months getting an engine that lasted only
700 mile. (another story). Chuck

> I used to try to blow out the lines but find it much easier to pump RV
> antifreeze (propylene glycol -- DO NOT use ethylene glycol as its toxic!!!)
> through the lines. I had made my own set up of valves to the tank side of the
> water pump but just this year purchased one from Campers World that has a
> three way valve that has a hose connection on the valve. Just turn the
> valve, put the hose into the bottle of antifreeze and go to each faucet and
> run the water until it turns red (the color of the antifreeze) Run the toilet
> and the shower hose as well. Pour a half cup down each drain (kitchen sink,
> shower and bath sink)It takes less that 1 gallon. Prior to doing this be
> sure to have a bypass system on your water heater. The old style had three
> valves. Campers World now have one that has a single valve and a check valve.
> Drain the water heater and the water tank and you are winterized. When you
> are ready to use the GMC just fill the water tank, move the valve by the pump
> to normal use and open the heater bypass and run your water until it is clear.

 

[robert shimanek]

A reminder about winterizing with RV antifreeze. I saw I belive either in
Wal Mart or K-mart windshield washer solvent the same color as the RV
antifreeze. So use caution if you go by the color. I had one gallon and
poured it out to make sure I won't use it for winterizing.

Bob
77PB

>I used to try to blow out the lines but find it much easier to pump RV
>antifreeze (propylene glycol -- DO NOT use ethylene glycol as its toxic!!!)
>through the lines.