Winterizing options

ktcnyc

ktcnyc

Member
Sep 14, 2020
99
13
8
Dingmans Ferry, Pa. and NYC
Hey Folks - I am planning to leave Pa early March for warmer climes and I wonder about whether I can get away with just draining and blowing out the
rig. Mainly I don't want a coach full of pink stuff when I depart- but I don't need any leaks on the road either. The coach has all plastic lines as
far as I can tell.
Many Thanks for any of your opinions/experiences with this.

KC
--
Kevin Cloutier -'77 Eleganza II-455, 6 disk brakes, Edelbrock carb, headers, , resident of NYC and Dingmans Ferry, Pa.
'72 MGB-GT & '73 MGB convertible
Member GMCMI since 8/20
 
I would just fill it with water and sanitize the tank and water lines with bleach. Drain and rinse out and then fill it with water for your trip. Since your water lines are inside the coach and you’ll be driving the coach and keeping it warm when parking for the night you should not have a freezing problem and not have to worry about the water system until you return home.

Emery Stora
76 Kingsley
Frederick CO

>
> Hey Folks - I am planning to leave Pa early March for warmer climes and I wonder about whether I can get away with just draining and blowing out the
> rig. Mainly I don't want a coach full of pink stuff when I depart- but I don't need any leaks on the road either. The coach has all plastic lines as
> far as I can tell.
> Many Thanks for any of your opinions/experiences with this.
>
> KC
> --
> Kevin Cloutier -'77 Eleganza II-455, 6 disk brakes, Edelbrock carb, headers, , resident of NYC and Dingmans Ferry, Pa.
> '72 MGB-GT & '73 MGB convertible
> Member GMCMI since 8/20
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
My personal belief(but I live in MN). Is blowing out lines only is risky. But most cases should be ok. Issue is some new toilets cant be blown out
complete and if not done well, moisture left in lines can accumulate in a low spot and freeze.

I use rv antifreeze and with a pump kit, and water heater bypass, it is a 10-15 min process to winterization and de-winterization. I end up doing
that a fee times in spring and fall.
--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
I've had friends lose water pumps and toilet valves when they relied ONLY on blowing out lines, even in our mild PNW climate.

I've also had friends mention they blow out the lines AND then add antifreeze. I could never get a good answer on how they think that helps... Just adding work, IMO.

If it was my water system - I'd do exactly as Jon mentions...

Rob
76 Royale Twin Beds, Dry Bath
Victoria, BC

>
> My personal belief(but I live in MN). Is blowing out lines only is risky. But most cases should be ok. Issue is some new toilets cant be blown out
> complete and if not done well, moisture left in lines can accumulate in a low spot and freeze.
>
> I use rv antifreeze and with a pump kit, and water heater bypass, it is a 10-15 min process to winterization and de-winterization. I end up doing
> that a fee times in spring and fall.
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
BIG NO to blowing out the lines and not putting antifreeze in the lines.

Blowing with air is ok to get most the water out, but if you have any low spots where the water will drain
to, it WILL fill the line at that low spot and FREEZE, and it is a good bet the line will break.

Fact: Guy at work used to blow his camper lines out and did nothing else.
we had a heavy freeze one year and he spent the summer stripping the aluminum off the outside of his
camper to replace the broken lines. I remember him saying he had to finish replacing the lines
at a campground and put all the aluminum back on.

The only way to protect from freezing is to use food grade antifreeze in the water lines or drains and
anywhere else water may puddle in.

The only guarantee blowing with air will work is if your lines are all vertical. Horizontal lines have to
be installed meticulously for the slope to guarantee the water will drain out of a perfectly level camper.
Most campers are not put together in such a careful fashion so food grade antifreeze is the best choice other
than staying in warm climates.

it is pretty easy to keep antifreeze in gallon jugs and run it through before coming up to colder climates.
I have done it in the past.
--
GatsbysCruise. \
74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU STUDIO -
UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center
 
I'd go with Jon's advice as well. The pink stuff works well especially if you have purchased or invented a winterizing diverter. I was pretty
scrupulous with my '73 with copper lines and it froze one winter, including my water heater. Had to re-do everything with pex, pulled the waterheater
and welded up the (several) cracks and moved on with my life.

Now, I even go so far as to send a quart or so of pink stuff into the water heater to avoid another re-do of it.

IMHO the best way to de-winterize is to make sure your city water connection doesn't leak and that you have water at a dump station. I run the onboard
pump to clean the antifreeze out of it and any seepage toward the fresh water tank and then I hook up to city water and flush everything out with LOTS
of water, including the hot water heater. I don't think its ever taken more than 20 minutes to de-winterize the water system. Frankly, picking up the
bajillion Bounce tissues that keep out the critters is more trouble.

JWID,
Doug
--
Douglas & Virginia Smith,
dsmithy18 at gmail,
Lincoln Nebraska,
’73 “Sequoia” since ‘95: "Wanabizo";
Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3:70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Thorley’s/Alloy wheels/Sundry other
 
Kevin,

Your climate is much like mine is in SE MI. It is not Minnesota, but there still has to be great care. Around here, hard freeze in April is very
rare, but it does happen. If where the coach is has electric available, you could add some comfort by running a small heater with all the doors open.
That would be enough to hold off the freeze to about 20°F.

If your coach is largely stock, it was built to have the potable system blown dry for the winter. There should be two low point drains in the galley
and an other on the right side of the coach either by the waterworks or in the head.

There are two sticking points. Both are in the head (bathroom), one is where the water line dips down to the flush valve for the pot. If it is a
Thetford pot, there is a little plastic valve that is part of the dump valve. It is a major PITA to replace and the last that I had to buy was 40$.
This is a sore point that we discussed at Thetford, but "Hey, We sell parts!" If possible, when you are through blowing everything else clear, break
that connection and be sure to blow that section clear. One of my thinking POs put in a drain and shut off there.

Another weak point in the head is the two loops that go up to the taps. My coach came with freeze damage there. These loops can be blown clear, but
if yours are flexible plastic, just close will be good enough.

The two low point drains in the galley are important because the potable lines both loop overhead and this is where what does not get blown clear will
collect. Mine are a bear to get to, but I have to hope that they did better in later years.

If the water heater does not have a by-pass, it should still have a drain. That drain is supposed to drain the tank to where it will not be damaged
by freezing. If it has no by-pass, then it will take 5 gallons of pink stuff to protect it. Even if it has a by-pass, that will still have to be
drained. You can do that by opening the hot tap and the drain and let it run out forever....

You will still have to drain the potable tank. There should be a valve in the waterworks to do this. Given where you live, if you are in the
anti-freeze camp, add two valves in front of the potable pump one to close the tank suction and the other to a loose hose that can suck pink out of a
jug.

It is also cleaver to add a valve that by-passes the potable pump and check valve so you can fill the potable tank from the city water connection.

Some potable pumps are protected from freeze damage, but not all are. If you do not know about what you have, disconnect it and run it for a minute.

A sailor friend (that explains much of the following) did a poor blow out and had some freeze damage to repair. Then he tried "Red Pop" it is often
called here. It took him most of the season to have decent potable again. Since then, has come in with a number of large bottles of cheap vodka.
The first of the season, the coffee is interesting. It was July before he could make ice with the onboard potable. Why vodka? Because cheap rum is
often so spiced that it does ruin coffee.

I have been told of, but never seen, an individual that has a bucket and a pump. With the pump sucking on the bucket, he attaches the discharge to
the city water fitting and lets things run until it is pink every where. This sounds so simple that I have to wonder why it is not more popular.
But, as said, I don't know of this directly. So, if you know more, I should like to hear.

Oh, and just in passing, I found dryer sheets shredded for nesting material and Irish Spring chips that had been chewed.

Matt


--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
As I am the first year newbie here and have already had a good summer of camping .. (I might try 2 more trips 'fore old man winter comes a callin),
today ordered a heater by-pass and a pump converter kit.

I haven't checked the rig yet as I store it quite a way from my place ..I know I don't have the bypass as I was just in there dicking around with the
heater reset switch last week, but there's a chance I have the pump attachment -will have to have a look tomorrow. No biggie if I end up with a new
one.

I also bought a plastic blow-out valve thingy to attach to the city supply intake (although I've never actually hooked up to that fitting) so don't
know much about it or how it's plumbed etc. Doubt that it's been hooked up for years, but of course not sure of P.O's regimen. The system had pink
when I picked it up last spring but pretty sure the pink was only in the hot water side of things, but there again maybe not. I just remember the
stink more from the hot water tap.

My plan with the blow out valve was to hook it up to a 12v tiny portable tire inflation pump that works off the cig lighter - how does that sound?
Useless or good idea?

Anything else I should do other than draining and buying a few gallons of pinkeye?

thanks lads

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New Atwood fridge, water heater & furnace. New SS exhaust system,
6000w Onan, Iota Converter, R134A A/C, New fuel lines & heat exchange hoses
 
One of the first years we owned the coach, I tried blowing the lines clean with shop air. That spring when I fired things up, I found the water pump
had split open and was leaking badly. Ever since, I have drained the water heater, and I have run the pink stuff through. After putting some pink
stuff in the water heater and experiencing what seemed like forever to clear that effervescent aftermath, I took all efforts to see to it that pink
stuff did not get into the water heater. Ran it through hot and cold of kitchen and bathroom sink, shower hot and cold, and toilet. Also filled the
traps with pink, and after flushing the black and grey tanks, I pour in 3 gallons of pink stuff down the toilet and run the macerator until I see pink
out the hose. In spite of well below zero temps (we live in NW Wisconsin) the only issue we have had is that a little pink stuff still makes its way
into the hot water tank and have to put up with a week or so of effervescence until enough water is run through to clear it out. IMO, use the pink
stuff. A lot easier and cheaper than replacing pipes and equipment. JMHO
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
I have access to a compressor but it's a massive industrial one, other than that nothing, no tank.

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New Atwood fridge, water heater & furnace. New SS exhaust system,
6000w Onan, Iota Converter, R134A A/C, New fuel lines & heat exchange hoses
 
Larry
I have been winterizing my GMC for many years and I only use one gallon of RV antifreeze (pink). I have done this for almost 40 years with no freezing problem. I lived in Michigan for years and in Santa Fe for 19 years (over 7000 feet with lot of snow in the winter. I have lived in the Denver area for about 11 years now and we get lots of freezing in the winter — below zero at times.

You should order these two kits from Amazon:

water heater bypass kit: https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-P23506LFVP-Lead-Free-Converter/dp/B00HSNYWTW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=8B8C1T3U7A0G&dchild=1&keywords=rv%2Bbypass%2Bkit%2Bfor%2Bwinterizing&qid=1633904379&sprefix=rv%2Bbypass%2Bkit%2Caps%2C250&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-P23506LFVP-Lead-Free-Converter/dp/B00HSNYWTW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=8B8C1T3U7A0G&dchild=1&keywords=rv%2Bbypass%2Bkit%2Bfor%2Bwinterizing&qid=1633904379&sprefix=rv%2Bbypass%2Bkit%2Caps%2C250&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

pump kit to pull antifreeze from 1 gallon bottle: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-Converter-Winterizing-TRV874795/dp/B0006JJ588/ref=sr_1_2?crid=8B8C1T3U7A0G&dchild=1&keywords=rv+bypass+kit+for+winterizing&qid=1633904379&sprefix=rv+bypass+kit%2Caps%2C250&sr=8-2 https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-Converter-Winterizing-TRV874795/dp/B0006JJ588/ref=sr_1_2?crid=8B8C1T3U7A0G&dchild=1&keywords=rv+bypass+kit+for+winterizing&qid=1633904379&sprefix=rv+bypass+kit%2Caps%2C250&sr=8-2

Here is something I posted in 2007 to the GMC Motorhome Photos site that shows the water heater bypass valve and the drain valve modification I made to my water heater:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4119-water-heater-door-2f-drain-valve.html http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4119-water-heater-door-2f-drain-valve.html

Using the water heater bypass kit none of the antifreeze gets into the hot water tank. You just drain the water out of it. So it is not necessary to put any antifreeze into the water heater.

The kit for the water pump allows you to pump the water right out of the jug into the lines.

It is not necessary to dump any antifreeze into the toilet.
The antifreeze that comes out of the faucets (kitchen and bath) and the shower hose and the toilet is enough to drain into the holding tank and back to the macerator pump to keep it from freezing.
I use less than a gallon in the lines and whatever I have left in the jug I pour into the shower drain to protect the trap from freezing and cracking. The two sink traps have enough in them from the antifreeze that comes out of the faucets.

Emery Stora
emerystora

>
> One of the first years we owned the coach, I tried blowing the lines clean with shop air. That spring when I fired things up, I found the water pump
> had split open and was leaking badly. Ever since, I have drained the water heater, and I have run the pink stuff through. After putting some pink
> stuff in the water heater and experiencing what seemed like forever to clear that effervescent aftermath, I took all efforts to see to it that pink
> stuff did not get into the water heater. Ran it through hot and cold of kitchen and bathroom sink, shower hot and cold, and toilet. Also filled the
> traps with pink, and after flushing the black and grey tanks, I pour in 3 gallons of pink stuff down the toilet and run the macerator until I see pink
> out the hose. In spite of well below zero temps (we live in NW Wisconsin) the only issue we have had is that a little pink stuff still makes its way
> into the hot water tank and have to put up with a week or so of effervescence until enough water is run through to clear it out. IMO, use the pink
> stuff. A lot easier and cheaper than replacing pipes and equipment. JMHO
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
HI Emery,

Thanks for the information. That is the same information that I got from you back in 2005 (or so) when I updated the plumbing in our coach. I have
used all of that equipment that you suggested and I could do it with just one gallon of pink stuff. But my gray and black tanks do not empty
completely.leaving some water in the bottom. Just being safe, I feel that the left-overs going into the tank from kitchen, shower and bath is not
enough to guarantee that the macerator will not freeze. Any pink stuff that goes into the tanks is diluted by the water still in the tank, raising the
freeze point. For me the extra spent on a couple of gallons of pink is worth the peace of mind. Just my way of thinking. No matter how hard I have
tried, even with the hot water tank diverter, still don't get all of the pink stuff out of the little corners here and there in the system, and
somehow a little of it manages to get into the hot water heater, and leaves me with some effervescence. A minor inconvenience. I only added that so
that if anyone experienced the effervescence, they would know why.

Have to thank you again for all of that advice that I got from you early in our GMC experience. No doubt has saved me a from lot of trouble.
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
Hey thanks Emery, that's the best advice for a poor relation like me having just one black tank and no mascerator can get. :p

After emptying, should I leave the gate valves on the black tank open? (I have two; an extra one with a cover at the very end of the discharge pipe)

I ordered both of the kits you recommended, should be here on Thursday. The access to the tank mod you did looks like just the thing, there sure ain't
a lot of room in there to work beside the toilet in a wet bath unit like mine. I might just do the same mod as I don't use that lower cabinet for much
and with the mod you don't lose any space anyway, right?

As far as the toilet goes, do I need to run the pink through to a flush (so I can see pink in the bowl) to make sure the toilet lines are protected?

Cheers

Larry



> Larry
> I have been winterizing my GMC for many years and I only use one gallon of RV antifreeze (pink). I have done this for almost 40 years with no
> freezing problem. I lived in Michigan for years and in Santa Fe for 19 years (over 7000 feet with lot of snow in the winter. I have lived in the
> Denver area for about 11 years now and we get lots of freezing in the winter — below zero at times.
>
> You should order these two kits from Amazon:
>
>
> water heater bypass kit:
> https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-P23506LFVP-Lead-Free-Converter/dp/B00HSNYWTW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=8B8C1T3U7A0G&dchild=1&keywords=rv%2Bbypass%2Bkit%
> 2Bfor%2Bwinterizing&qid=1633904379&sprefix=rv%2Bbypass%2Bkit%2Caps%2C250&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
>
> pump kit to pull antifreeze from 1 gallon bottle:
> https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-Converter-Winterizing-TRV874795/dp/B0006JJ588/ref=sr_1_2?crid=8B8C1T3U7A0G&dchild=1&keywords=rv+bypass+kit+
> for+winterizing&qid=1633904379&sprefix=rv+bypass+kit%2Caps%2C250&sr=8-2
>
> Here is something I posted in 2007 to the GMC Motorhome Photos site that shows the water heater bypass valve and the drain valve modification I
> made to my water heater:
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4119-water-heater-door-2f-drain-valve.html
>
> Using the water heater bypass kit none of the antifreeze gets into the hot water tank. You just drain the water out of it. So it is not necessary
> to put any antifreeze into the water heater.
>
> The kit for the water pump allows you to pump the water right out of the jug into the lines.
>
> It is not necessary to dump any antifreeze into the toilet.
> The antifreeze that comes out of the faucets (kitchen and bath) and the shower hose and the toilet is enough to drain into the holding tank and
> back to the macerator pump to keep it from freezing.
> I use less than a gallon in the lines and whatever I have left in the jug I pour into the shower drain to protect the trap from freezing and
> cracking. The two sink traps have enough in them from the antifreeze that comes out of the faucets.
>
> Emery Stora
> emerystora

--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New Atwood fridge, water heater & furnace. New SS exhaust system,
6000w Onan, Iota Converter, R134A A/C, New fuel lines & heat exchange hoses
 
> Hey thanks Emery, that's the best advice for a poor relation like me having just one black tank and no mascerator can get. :p
>
> After emptying, should I leave the gate valves on the black tank open? (I have two; an extra one with a cover at the very end of the discharge
> pipe)
>
> I ordered both of the kits you recommended, should be here on Thursday. The access to the tank mod you did looks like just the thing, there sure
> ain't a lot of room in there to work beside the toilet in a wet bath unit like mine. I might just do the same mod as I don't use that lower cabinet
> for much and with the mod you don't lose any space anyway, right?
>
> As far as the toilet goes, do I need to run the pink through to a flush (so I can see pink in the bowl) to make sure the toilet lines are
> protected?
>
> Cheers
>
> Larry

Larry,

If you are gong the anti-freeze way, then yes, get pink in the bowl. If you do not, there is a very good chance that you can freeze and bust that 40$
and PITA to replace valve.

As to the gate valves. My experience with the Valterra, Bladex and Bristol is very limited, but if you still have a white Thetford valve at the tank,
do not leave that one open. As for the others, I cannot be certain, but knowing the construction of the Valterra, I would not suggest that you leave
that open either.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
In preparing for my first winter in southcentral Alaska, I was very thor=
ough about preparing my motorhome (then a Ford "460" powered Coachmen pro=
duct) for cold storage. An "old sourdough" who lived nearby was visiting wh=
en I was doing my prep. He politely volunteered that my way was an overkill=
and described his and other veteran residents' practice. I listened but wa=
s apprehensive about "their way" and did it my comprehensive way the first =
winter(i.e., use RFV antifreeze, remove batteries to warm storage, periodic=
restarts/warmups, etc.). "My way" was a real hassle in that cold. The next=
winter, I "did it their way" and have done so since. The motorhome I use i=
n summers and leave in Alaska is a '82 GM "454" powered Airstream. It has b=
een there 22 years. In all of that time, there has been no discernible chan=
ge in compression, makeup oil, fuel consumption, etc. using the "old sourdo=
ugh's" winterization practice. I also did this with no adverse effects on t=
he GMCMh for about eight years before retiring from Alaska ('was there as a=
resident over a span of 20 years). The practice (about 30 minutes): U=
se no RV antifreeze. Open all drains and faucets, including water heater (o=
pen relief valve at tank to aid draining). Using a wet-dry vacuum cleaner, =
connect the vacuum port to all faucets and tubing drains individually (remo=
ves remaining water from water tubing that did not gravity drain). I use a =
small 1 BHP wet-dry shop vacuum cleaner for this. Leave all drains open for=
winter storage. Last, I vacuum the water out of the (1) "P" trap at the ga=
lley sink, shower and lavatory (2) at the house water pump/connecting tubin=
g and (3) commode/connecting tubing. I usually get about a gallon of water=
after the gravity drain. Disconnect motorhome electrical cable from gen se=
t, if connected. Start gen set, disconnect 12VDC power to fuel pump and run=
gen set until it dies from fuel starvation. Enroute to storage(uncovered, =
general aviation airport), fill motorhome (and car) fuel tanks, adding Stab=
il storage fuel stabilizer. At storage, remove cable from the positive post=
of all batteries. Record voltage for comparison to voltage at time of next=
start-up. Prepare coach for snow load (i.e., remove radio antenna, stand w=
indshield wipers vertically, etc. to avoid snow glaciation damage during sp=
ring thaw). For start-up, note battery voltage. For wet cell batterie=
s at full charge when the motorhome was stored, the voltage loss over 9-10 =
months will usually be not more than 0.25 volts (info - for wet cell batter=
ies in good condition and stored at full charge, freezing will not occur un=
til the temp reaches about -78F. The record low in Anchorage is -38F. Most =
winter spikes do not go below -30F). Connect all battery cables. Start gen =
set first (leave gen set running to charge batteries while starting motorho=
me engine). For carbureted engine, pull coil wire from distributor to "moto=
r" engine with starter for 10 seconds (for a little oil circulation). Recon=
nect coil wire. Remove air cleaner and spray starting fluid into carbureto=
r venturi. Immediately replace air cleaner and start engine. 'Avoids long s=
tart time and risk of discharging battery. For fuel injected motorhome eng=
ines, start in usual manner; there will be no pre-oiling but unavoidable wi=
thout disabling engine ignition or fuel delivery systems. After starting ge=
n set and motorhome engines, proceed to close all drains and faucets in pre=
paration for filling motorhome water tank. Fill water tank, turn water pump=
on and check carefully for leaks. JWID... Fred Hudspeth 197=
8 Royale (TZE 368V101335) - Tyler, TX 1982 Airstream Excella (motorhome) =
- Cooper Landing, Alaska
 
So, Matt,
"Oh, and just in passing, I found dryer sheets shredded for nesting material and Irish Spring chips that had been chewed."
So what do YOU do. Suspend the coach from the roof of your barn on greased ropes? What kind of grease? What kind of rope?
Everyone on this forum has the same problems over the winter.

--
Douglas & Virginia Smith,
dsmithy18 at gmail,
Lincoln Nebraska,
’73 “Sequoia” since ‘95: "Wanabizo";
Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3:70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Thorley’s/Alloy wheels/Sundry other
 
I kind of hate to tell you this, but I have never found anything that works consistently. So far, the best luck we have had was with Cab-Fresh.
Putting the packets in places that we find evidence. I have one of those ultra sonic noise makers I am trying this year. When the coach is actually
in the barn (true for most of most recent winters) we have very little trouble. When in the barn, there are many more attractive places to nest.
Places like tool box and parts cabinet drawers.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
A good method to keep mice out is to purchase an electric fence controller and enough chopsticks to encircle your Motorhome about 18” apart. Buy enough small gauge bare wire to put two strands on the chopsticks - one about 1/2” above the ground and the other 1-1/2” above the ground.
Connect the fence controller to the wires and plug it in. Note: this should also keep out squirrels.
If there is enough demand maybe we can get Jim Kanomata to stock them!

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick CO

>
> So, Matt,
> "Oh, and just in passing, I found dryer sheets shredded for nesting material and Irish Spring chips that had been chewed."
> So what do YOU do. Suspend the coach from the roof of your barn on greased ropes? What kind of grease? What kind of rope?
> Everyone on this forum has the same problems over the winter.
>
>
> --
> Douglas & Virginia Smith,
> dsmithy18 at gmail,
> Lincoln Nebraska,
> ’73 “Sequoia” since ‘95: "Wanabizo";
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Applied GMC
GMCMI Spring 2026 Rally

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