Window Track Lubricant?

H

hdavis

New member
Mar 13, 1998
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I have replaced the felt track material in the driver's and passenger side
windows - they move great. However, the two movable windows in the living area
do not slide well. In order to get them to move, one person stands on the
outside to help move the window while another on the inside pulls the handle.
It then slides OK for a short distance and then binds. I've cleaned a bunch of
dirt out of the plastic tracks but it doesn't seem to have helped much. How do
I tell if I need to replace the tracks? Is there a lubricant that should be
used on the tracks? (I can't find a mention of this in the manuals).

Thanks,

Henry


Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (408) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com
 
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-gmcmotorhome
>[mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of
>hdavis
>Sent: Monday, May 25, 1998 10:09 AM
>To: gmcmotorhome
>Subject: GMC: Window Track Lubricant?
>
>
>I have replaced the felt track material in the driver's and passenger side
>windows - they move great. However, the two movable windows in the
>living area
>do not slide well. In order to get them to move, one person stands on the
>outside to help move the window while another on the inside pulls
>the handle.
>It then slides OK for a short distance and then binds. I've
>cleaned a bunch of
>dirt out of the plastic tracks but it doesn't seem to have helped
>much. How do
>I tell if I need to replace the tracks? Is there a lubricant that
>should be
>used on the tracks? (I can't find a mention of this in the manuals).
>
Hi Henry,
I would suggest using Silicone spray...I havent used it on my GMC
( only owned it for three days. )but I have installed hundreds of
sliding windows and doors in houses. Thats what We use to spray the
tracks.
Talking about windows.... Mine need new seals,weatherstrip etc.
Anybody recondition these on there own? What does the job entail?
My glass looks good except for a slight haze around the outer
edges. If I tint the glass will that hide the haze? How eazy is
it to remove the windows and frames?
Thanks,
Rob
 
>>
>Hi Henry,
> I would suggest using Silicone spray...I havent used it on my GMC
> ( only owned it for three days. )but I have installed hundreds of
> sliding windows and doors in houses. Thats what We use to spray the
> tracks.

Thanks, I'll give it a try today. I'd thought about silicone but haven't
used it myself. Guess if it doesn't work I can always wipe it off!

> Talking about windows.... Mine need new seals,weatherstrip etc.
> Anybody recondition these on there own? What does the job entail?

What year is your GMC? My 76 Palm Beach had the older style wire based
material in the front guides. Since my coach was already in the Nor-Cal shop
for a brake rebuild and gas tank refurb I had them replace the wire material
with the newer felt. I was there for part of the removal - not too bad but a
real pain. The wire had rusted badly so it came out in pieces - each piece
stuck to the track. Weatherstripping was done with the windows in place. Not
a big deal - except the stripping on the passenger side windshield doesn't
quite meet the stripping from the side window. So, I can see a small speck
of daylight. I plan to water test that portion this week to see if it's an
immediate problem.

> My glass looks good except for a slight haze around the outer
> edges.

Are you talking about the windshields or side windows? My windshields have a
slight fogging around the edges, but it's not objectionable to me - it
doesn't interfere with driving visibility.

If I tint the glass will that hide the haze? How eazy is
> it to remove the windows and frames?

I didn't remove the windows so I can't say. You should pick up the
maintenance manuals from Cinabar - they can save a bunch of time. BUT, my
coach seems to have been started in 1974, had the engine installed in 75 but
finished and titled in 1976. So, there are a few spots where the
installation doen't look exactly the same as the book. I don't know how
common this is, but it's worth watching for.

Henry

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (408) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com
 
Use silicon spray after cleaning the tracks of all foreign material.

>I have replaced the felt track material in the driver's and passenger side
>windows - they move great. However, the two movable windows in the living area
>do not slide well. In order to get them to move, one person stands on the
>outside to help move the window while another on the inside pulls the handle.
>It then slides OK for a short distance and then binds. I've cleaned a bunch of
>dirt out of the plastic tracks but it doesn't seem to have helped much. How do
>I tell if I need to replace the tracks? Is there a lubricant that should be
>used on the tracks? (I can't find a mention of this in the manuals).
>
>Thanks,
>
>Henry
>
>
>Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
>PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
>Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
>ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
>fax: (408) 462-5198
>http://www.henry-davis.com
>
>
 
I understand from the manual that you can replace the seals without removing
the windows. Golbys, cinnabar and Gateway have the material..

>
>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-gmcmotorhome
>>[mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of
>>hdavis
>>Sent: Monday, May 25, 1998 10:09 AM
>>To: gmcmotorhome
>>Subject: GMC: Window Track Lubricant?
>>
>>
>>I have replaced the felt track material in the driver's and passenger side
>>windows - they move great. However, the two movable windows in the
>>living area
>>do not slide well. In order to get them to move, one person stands on the
>>outside to help move the window while another on the inside pulls
>>the handle.
>>It then slides OK for a short distance and then binds. I've
>>cleaned a bunch of
>>dirt out of the plastic tracks but it doesn't seem to have helped
>>much. How do
>>I tell if I need to replace the tracks? Is there a lubricant that
>>should be
>>used on the tracks? (I can't find a mention of this in the manuals).
>>
>Hi Henry,
> I would suggest using Silicone spray...I havent used it on my GMC
> ( only owned it for three days. )but I have installed hundreds of
> sliding windows and doors in houses. Thats what We use to spray the
> tracks.
> Talking about windows.... Mine need new seals,weatherstrip etc.
> Anybody recondition these on there own? What does the job entail?
> My glass looks good except for a slight haze around the outer
> edges. If I tint the glass will that hide the haze? How eazy is
> it to remove the windows and frames?
> Thanks,
> Rob
>
>
>
 
>
>Use silicon spray after cleaning the tracks of all foreign material.
>

After posting my question (and getting an answer) I was re-reading the owner's
book and ntoiced that they mention silicone spray in one picture. I'll try it
this afternoon. I think that I have all of the gunk out of the tracks, si
it'll be interesting to see how things work once they're lubed.

Henry

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (408) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com
 
Keep the windows, replace the seals. Its not hard, and definetly cheaper.

>In a message dated 98-05-25 16:28:25 EDT, you write:
>
> I understand from the manual that you can replace the seals without removing
> the windows. Golbys, cinnabar and Gateway have the material..
> >>
>
>Thomas
>
>You are wright you can replace the seals without removing the window---
>in theory. 3 of my windows had shifted from there origional position.
>They are still not sealed well. None of my windows will move because
>someone shot silly cone into the seals to fix leaks. Looking for a different
>windows. Anybody got any good ideas. BTW Jim Bounds has the seals
>also. Patrick has the pics.
>
>Take Care
>Arch
>
>
>
 
> > I understand from the manual that you can replace the seals without removing
> > the windows. Golbys, cinnabar and Gateway have the material..
> > >>
> >
> >Thomas
> >
> >You are wright you can replace the seals without removing the window---
> >in theory. 3 of my windows had shifted from there origional position.
> >They are still not sealed well. None of my windows will move because
> >someone shot silly cone into the seals to fix leaks. Looking for a different
> >windows. Anybody got any good ideas. BTW Jim Bounds has the seals
> >also. Patrick has the pics.
> >
> >Take Care
> >Arch

I pulled my front side windows out last week and redis everything
including the channel. The windows came out easily after all the trim
was removed (not so easy and a pain in the a**). The windows glass,
frame and every where else imaginable had been sealed, resealed and done
again with sill(y)cone. I disassembleed the frame, glass and rubber
gasket material carefully, removed all RTV crap and started fresh. 3M
makes a great urethane glass sealer for use on windows. An auto paint
store should have it in tubes for a caulking gun, about $10.00 a tube
but well worth it. I used the urethane sealer in the rubber channel to
seal the channel to the glass and in the alluminium frame to seal the
rubber to the frame. This worked well, but you need to use the sealer
sparingly so as not to get it all over everything.

I then put a small bead of 3M Windoweld ribbon sealer around the opening
to seal the frame to the coachwork. The ribbon sealer is abou 1/4 inch
in diameter (too thick) so you have to pull it like taffy to make it
smaller 1/8 of a bead. Then put the frame in and adjust as needed. The
ribbon sealer remains pliable and soft to retain a seal and you can
shift the frame slowly to get an exact fit.

This approach is time consuming but makes for a tight new seal.
Sillicone merely patches and over the years gives way and looks like
#####. The new products to seal windows and leakes for autos is great
stuff and ther are a number of 3M products made specifically foe the
process. Use RTV in the batroom and not on your auto windows. The
bathroom dosenot flex and move like our coaches do and silly cone does
not fair well in that enviorment. 3M also makes a strip caulk for
sealing all sorts of windows, light joints, body joints and small holes.
The cost for a box (20 yds) again is around $10. If any one wants part
#s let me know. A good auto paint supplier will have all of the goodies
for window and leak repair. Just ask when it is slow. Afternoons
between 2 and 4 during the middle of the week is good. Bring the coach
and they love to come out and give all sorts of advice.

Marcus
 
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