White knuckle ride

> But toe-out will definitely cause steering instability, and it will get
> worse on coast down or hard braking. Depending on what is causing the
> toe-out, acceleration might actually improve it a bit. Ride height also
> affects stability, but to a lesser extent. Excessive tire pressures make
> any steering problem more noticeable, too.
>
> Rick "cause and effect" Denney

I just picked up my coach (finally!). I have been waiting patiently (or not) since November. Hopped a plane down to WA state, Amtrak'd it the rest
of the way. I wasn't white knuckling it but pretty friggin' close for the first hour. My problem sounds very much like Glenbrook75 - wants to wander
back and forth. And Rick - definitely worse when coasting down-hill, better when I am actually putting a load on it.

The PO had done the front end, and nothing feels off, it doesn't want to pull to one side like the typical "needs an alignment" that I am used to,
just doesn't quite want to hold a straight track. And then when trying to correct, it tends to over-correct, setting off a wild oscillating pattern
down the road until I get her settled in again.

There is also some play in the steering wheel - not a lot but just enough that I think the combination of camber (sounds like it from what everyone is
saying!), the bit of play in the steering wheel (I think I found something about that problem in rotor's picture gallery in a google search) and
getting used to sitting so far over the front wheels made it a most interesting 10 hours of driving!

I haven't had a chance to check the ride heights yet (got home last night and had to go to work today) and the tire pressures seemed good (checked
them at the PO's and were "good" - according to PO), but I will be going over a lot of that this weekend when I have the time.

A lot to learn but from the sound of it, I may have a toe-out issue - that's what it feels like too.

If I can get that sorted, and the Onan running - was supposed to be working when I purchased it - we should be in pretty good shape.
--
It's Bigger on the Inside!
 
Rees,

The steering column is mounted to the body; the steering gear box is mounted
to the frame. The purpose of the blue spline is to take up any motion
between the body and the frame. The blue spline should come out easily!

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of ree.eric
Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 5:47 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] White knuckle ride

Got it! That blue spline is not easy to get apart. A grease nipple threaded
into the drain hole then one might be able to use grease pressure to push
it out but you would need to remove the U joint for access.
I left the bottom boot without a tie wrap and I put lots of grease in the
spline.
Thanks to all and I hope the extra hours spent teaches me to read to manual
first. :p
Off to my US package pick up for more parts soon, I am close to the border.
Digi Panel, gas tank elbow and more have arrived.
--
Eric
 
Deb, ride height is the starting point. The rear should be lower than the
front, and a high rear end reduces effective caster and undermines
self-centering of the front wheels. Were you in Travel? Sometimes new
owners (and old!) forget to take it out of Hold and the rear bags are too
full from having leveled up in a campsight. Check ride height first, then
check for toe-out.

But being noticeably worse on coast-down or braking is a toe-out trait.

Also, make sure tire pressures are correct. There was a school of thought
within the GMC community that advocated for all-steel E-range tires at 80
psi. That will rattle your fillings and make every steering problem seem
worse. Current thinking is to follow the tire majifacturer's recommendation
and inflate based on the weight on each wheel. That results in something
more like 65 psi in the front and maybe less in the back, based on the
weight of the coach. My coach is one of the lightest, and I have only 1300
pounds on each rear wheel--I can use 45 psi in the back. But a later
(heavier) 26' coach may need 65.

Do those three things first (ride height, toe, and tire pressure), then
assess. I bet it will be better.

At some point, you'll check everything, just for your own peace of mind,
but start there.

The coaches are easy to drive when everything is right. Mine isn't perfect
but it's still better than the Class C motorhomes we have rented in Alaska.

Rick "who has driven in Hold with a high back end by accident and, Yikes!"
Denney

> > But toe-out will definitely cause steering instability, and it will get
> > worse on coast down or hard braking. Depending on what is causing the
> > toe-out, acceleration might actually improve it a bit. Ride height also
> > affects stability, but to a lesser extent. Excessive tire pressures make
> > any steering problem more noticeable, too.
> >
> > Rick "cause and effect" Denney
>
>
> I just picked up my coach (finally!). I have been waiting patiently (or
> not) since November. Hopped a plane down to WA state, Amtrak'd it the rest
> of the way. I wasn't white knuckling it but pretty friggin' close for the
> first hour. My problem sounds very much like Glenbrook75 - wants to wander
> back and forth. And Rick - definitely worse when coasting down-hill,
> better when I am actually putting a load on it.
>
> The PO had done the front end, and nothing feels off, it doesn't want to
> pull to one side like the typical "needs an alignment" that I am used to,
> just doesn't quite want to hold a straight track. And then when trying to
> correct, it tends to over-correct, setting off a wild oscillating pattern
> down the road until I get her settled in again.
>
> There is also some play in the steering wheel - not a lot but just enough
> that I think the combination of camber (sounds like it from what everyone is
> saying!), the bit of play in the steering wheel (I think I found something
> about that problem in rotor's picture gallery in a google search) and
> getting used to sitting so far over the front wheels made it a most
> interesting 10 hours of driving!
>
> I haven't had a chance to check the ride heights yet (got home last night
> and had to go to work today) and the tire pressures seemed good (checked
> them at the PO's and were "good" - according to PO), but I will be going
> over a lot of that this weekend when I have the time.
>
> A lot to learn but from the sound of it, I may have a toe-out issue -
> that's what it feels like too.
>
> If I can get that sorted, and the Onan running - was supposed to be
> working when I purchased it - we should be in pretty good shape.
> --
> It's Bigger on the Inside!
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Rick Denney
73 x-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Off-list email to rick at rickdenney dot com
 
Hi Rick. Yeah - I did the "Driving in Hold" once or twice. Fortunately the red light is working and did remind me (when I dealt with it immediately
before taking off!).
I'm going to find the recommendations for the Toyo's I'm riding (I'm assuming they would likely be close to the Michelin table I have bookmarked if I
can't find one!) and then see where I should be. Right now the coach is about half weight in the back - half full water tank and gas tanks maybe
about 2/3 full.

So I will check the drive heights and the tire pressure recommendations and see where we go from there. Hopefully that might do the trick - or most
of it at least - but as they say "Murphy was an optimist". If you expect the worst case scenario, you may frequently be pleasantly surprised" :)

I'm going to talk to the local motorhome alignment guys. Their alignment person has been doing this for 35 years, so may actually have done some work
on these old gals, and I have a PM into one of the local GMCers to see if he has any insight, recommendation. I WILL get her out on the road in
"Relax" mode! ;)
--
Li'l Sister
'77 Kingsley, 403, with a few mods;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!
 
All good suggestions from the list which I totally agree with. Ride height, tire inflation pressures and wheel alignment all very, very important! However, my world just changed yesterday when I tossed the stock steering coupler and replaced it with my own engineered Borgeson u-joints and collapsible double D steering shaft assembly. Obviously the stock unit in good condition is more than capable of doing the job but I now have one handed steering (No more white knuckled steering!). Adios to the stock shaft and hello to a simple, (much more) cost effective system. Simple really is better.

Neil (Elvis)
1977 Kingsley, 403, mostly stock
Calgary, Alberta
Canada

>
> Hi Rick. Yeah - I did the "Driving in Hold" once or twice. Fortunately the red light is working and did remind me (when I dealt with it immediately
> before taking off!).
> I'm going to find the recommendations for the Toyo's I'm riding (I'm assuming they would likely be close to the Michelin table I have bookmarked if I
> can't find one!) and then see where I should be. Right now the coach is about half weight in the back - half full water tank and gas tanks maybe
> about 2/3 full.
>
> So I will check the drive heights and the tire pressure recommendations and see where we go from there. Hopefully that might do the trick - or most
> of it at least - but as they say "Murphy was an optimist". If you expect the worst case scenario, you may frequently be pleasantly surprised" :)
>
> I'm going to talk to the local motorhome alignment guys. Their alignment person has been doing this for 35 years, so may actually have done some work
> on these old gals, and I have a PM into one of the local GMCers to see if he has any insight, recommendation. I WILL get her out on the road in
> "Relax" mode! ;)
> --
> Li'l Sister
> '77 Kingsley, 403, with a few mods;
> TZE167V101404
> It's Bigger on the Inside!
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
A word to the wise. Ask him/her if in those 35 years of experience how many times have they worked on a vehicle where both front and rear ride heights are adjustable and where one influences the other. Add to that the hysteresis in our 40 year old suspension systems that requires one to drive the coach two to five miles to let the suspension find its natural level when going down the road any time the coach is lifted. Most really experienced alignment people just tug no the suspension a bit while still on the alignment rack to try to get it to settle in. Won’t work with our GMCs so as soon as you drive it off the rack you stand to loose all the camber, caster and toe settings they so carefully set.

The proper procedure is to set tire pressure for the load carried (roughly 65psi front and 60 psi rear for most 26 foot GMCs). Now set rear ride height, block it so rear won/t move and set front ride height. Drive the coach two to five miles and recheck ride height front and rear. Takes most people two to three or more bites at the apple to get ride heigh correct after driving. Then and only then can one effectively set caster, camber and tow. Assuming you are running radial ply tires, caster should be as much as you can get with both sides equal (1.5 to 3 degrees is all most coaches can get without offset bushings). Camber should be zero with the wheels frame parallel where tow is zero. Toe should be left at zero for most coaches with a reasonably tight front end. Rear wheels should be frame parallel with just a bit of tire top in camber on all four. Hope your guy/gal can achieve that for you.

Remind them that the coach was designed around bias ply tires so the factory alignment specs are not correct now that most of us are running radial ply tires.

When you get the coach back from the alignment shop, check ride height to see if it is still correct. If it is, then go after centering the steering box and there will be no more white knuckle rides in your future.

Jerry Work
The Dovetail Joint
Fine furniture designed and hand crafted in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building in historic Kerby, OR

glwork
http://jerrywork.com
================
I'm going to talk to the local motorhome alignment guys. Their alignment person has been doing this for 35 years, so may actually have done some work
on these old gals, and I have a PM into one of the local GMCers to see if he has any insight, recommendation. I WILL get her out on the road in
"Relax" mode! ;)
--
Li'l Sister
'77 Kingsley, 403, with a few mods;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!
=================
 
Thanks Jerry. I plan to ask first if he has ever done one! And if so, how long ago :) And how many. If the answer is none, then I may have to
reconsider. And try to find other options. It's a busy shop and they may not be willing to take the open ended time that could be required to get
this done.

But, first things first. Get the tire pressures set, and get her down to the rec centre parking lot where it's nice and flat to check the ride
height. (I have a sloping driveway so that is a no go). Then take her out and see if that has helped.

And go from there.
--
Li'l Sister
'77 Kingsley, 403, with a few mods;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!
 
Thanks Neil. I am hoping that pressures and ride height can make a difference. Don't know if this guy has ever even worked on a GMC, so I'm not
holding my breath on that. I'm pretty certain that an alignment is WAY beyond my skill set, let alone tool set!

If I can at least get her to the point that I am confident driving it, even if it isn't perfect, I may be able to get her to someone that can do it,
without feeling like I'm taking chances. Although I DID drive it all the way from WA through Tacoma/Seattle and felt OK about it, the cross-winds on
the way home Friday night made for a pretty sporty ride!

--
Li'l Sister
'77 Kingsley, 403, with a few mods;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!
 
Well, first thing - when I picked her up & drove off I didn't know that the airbag cut-off system was in cut-off position. So I was driving all the
way home from WA in Hold. Didn't realize there was a cut-off system installed. Not mentioned and PO must have forgotten it was on (& Newbie here
didn't know to check for it. Just asked if she was ready for the road.). However, I did notice it this morning, and quickly figured out that it
probably wouldn't have mattered what I did with the Electro-Level, it was in hold and way off ride height. Once I got home I had done the tires at 65
psi all around (I had read that one can't quite remember where).
Checked the ride height and it was high in the rear (1/2"+), low in the front by about 1/2"+ (but even) and the two sides in the rear were 1"
difference - left higher than right and therefore a good 1 1/2 " high!.

So... opened the cut-off valves so the system could do it's thing and without doing anything else I took it for a 20 km ride on our little highway.
Much better already, even the cross-winds weren't as difficult as they had been. Got to the rest station, rechecked the tire pressures (still 65psi)
and dropped the rear tires to 60 based on everybody's comments (Thanks for that!), rechecked the ride height - front still low but still even, rears
sitting approximately normal height, left still about 1/2" high, but the right is good. Drove it back home and it was MUCH better again.

Still do have some play in the steering wheel but it isn't as dramatic an influence as before now that it's tracking a little closer to normal.

Next on my list is to drop the rear adjustment a bit so that I can even the back height out & have closer to the spec difference between front & back.
(Raising the front isn't possible right now - not the space nor the tools). But I want to wait till I have ready access to a compressor and a torque
wrench before I go messing with it. I have the maintenance manual so I have the instructions for the rear height adjustment. Just need to suck it
up and get her out to a nice flat piece of asphalt somewhere. Probably Thursday afternoon when I will have the time to play with it, and fiddle
likely many more times than would be considered normal. First time.. Newbie!

But, it is looking hopeful. Any advice? Comments? Suggestions? Until I can get the front up and check the alignment? (which may actually not be as
big a problem as first expected)
Thanks to those passing along their encouragement and suggestions. Helped a LOT.
--
Li'l Sister
'77 Kingsley, 403, with a few mods;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!
 
Deb,

If you haven't downloaded and studied Jerry Work's alignment manual, do so
before you do any adjustments:

https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=http%3A%2F%2Fthedovetailjoint.
squarespace.com%2Fstorage%2FGMC%2520alignment%2520in%
2520Nine%2520Easy%2520Steps%2520V1.0.pdf

Even if you don't use Jerry's jigs, or similar (such as mine), you still
need to know all the hints, pointers, and facts he presents.

Ken H.

​...Next on my list is to drop the rear adjustment a bit so that I can even
the back height out & have closer to the spec difference between front &
back.

> (Raising the front isn't possible right now - not the space nor the
> tools). But I want to wait till I have ready access to a compressor and a
> torque
> wrench before I go messing with it. I have the maintenance manual so I
> have the instructions for the rear height adjustment. Just need to suck it
> up and get her out to a nice flat piece of asphalt somewhere. Probably
> Thursday afternoon when I will have the time to play with it, and fiddle
> likely many more times than would be considered normal. First time..
> Newbie!
>
> But, it is looking hopeful. Any advice? Comments? Suggestions? Until I
> can get the front up and check the alignment? (which may actually not be as
> big a problem as first expected)
> Thanks to those passing along their encouragement and suggestions. Helped
> a LOT.
> --
>
 
Thanks Ken. I have downloaded his alignment instructions and the powerpoint :). I am actually considering ordering his alignment kit. I don't know
that there is anyone around here who can do an alignment on these properly, but in the short term, if I can at least even out the rear ride height and
perhaps drop it a bit to get a bit more caster, I can get by until I find a way to get it done properly - even if that means waiting for an alignment
kit to arrive. I'm not planning on going very far at this point - still learning - but in the meantime I would like to get her to the point where I
am relatively comfortable driving.
--
Li'l Sister
'77 Kingsley, 403, with a few mods;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!
 
Sorry but I no longer sell the alignment kits. Some of the clubs have them for members to use

Jerry Work
Kerby, OR
..........:
Thanks Ken. I have downloaded his alignment instructions and the powerpoint :). I am actually considering ordering his alignment kit.
........:::
 
Sorry to learn that Jerry's no longer selling alignment jigs.

An alternative is to make a set like mine -- very easy and, if carefully
made, very accurate:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5634-wheel-alignment-jigs.html

The album makes more sense viewed last-to-first.

The Craftsman digital laser level is still advertised, as is one at Harbor
Freight, and a couple of others. While that's the most convenient device,
IMHO, it would be feasible to use separate level and laser.

Ken H

> Sorry but I no longer sell the alignment kits. Some of the clubs have them
> for members to use
>
> Jerry Work
> Kerby, OR
> ..........:
> Thanks Ken. I have downloaded his alignment instructions and the
> powerpoint :). I am actually considering ordering his alignment kit.
> ........:::
>
 
I have a couple of laser levels that I ordered off of ebay. Unfortunately I do not remember the brand but I'm sure it began with "made in China". I
copied Ken's fixtures twice. The first set I made were the wrong sizes. I also slotted the boltholes on the vertical tube so it will work on 15",
16", and 17" inch wheels.

Note: Alcoa 16" and Eagle 16" are slightly different in diameter where the horizontal bolts touch the wheel so a slotted hole is recommended.

To check that the fixtures and laser level are still in calibration vertically, I install them and read the angle, then I turn them over read it
again. It should read the same. My laser level projects a horizontal and a vertical line so I can check the horizontal calibration by projecting the
vertical line on the ground. Then I turn the fixtures over and check that the laser hits the same spot.

Once assembled, they should not change but I disassemble mine for storage. So I recheck them every time. I do not use the strings like Ken H. (His
way may be more accurate.) I use the same fixtures and the laser or sometimes a 5 foot straight edge across the pair of wheels to accomplish the same
thing. I have never found a rear wheel out of spec on toe. It is always the middle wheel and usually on the right side.

One other thing. I use the smallest bungees that you can find to attach the fixture to the wheel. The allows me to mount these on different style
wheels. If the bungee is too short for the attachment, simply use 2 hooked together.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Thank you Ken & Ken :) Sorry to hear your kit is no longer available Jerry.
But I have bookmarked this thread for your assembly Ken H.
--
Li'l Sister
'77 Kingsley, 403, with a few mods;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!
 
Jerry's alignment process is the good stuff, but if you want to do a low tech front end alignment, try this:
http://www.machinesoflovinggrace.net/gmc/frontend/index.php?p=Alignment

Just the basics: first get the height all around as close to correct as you can get it. This will
require numerous adjustments because every time you adjust one corner, it'll change the others.
Always measure after driving a few miles and then parking on the smoothest flattest most level piece of concrete you can find.
Very few alignment shops will do this for you, so it pays to get it right yourself first.

Very important: if you do get a tool for adjusting the front ride height, make sure you start by first setting the
pork chop bolts to the same number of turns on both sides if they're not already set that way (ie, same number of threads showing bolts that are the
same length),
then drive it and re-measure. If the pork chop bolts are too far off from each other, you will get very uneven weight loading
and it will impact the handling badly (maybe even dangerously overloading one side). It will also make it darn
near impossible to get consistent ride height readings because of the dynamic load imbalance (ask me how I know...).
Using that as your starting point, adjust both sides evenly up or down, and only then, tweak one side if needed.
The bolt settings will usually not be far off from each other if the weight loading and torsion bars are good.

Set the caster by adjusting the cam bolts as described. For simplicity, you can skip measuring the side-to-side caster at this point and
just go for maximum caster; you can revisit it later if necessary, but I didn't need to. After that, adjust camber, and then toe.
When adjusting toe, try to keep both tie rods adjusted close to the same length. If you don't have the wheels on a slick surface,
adjust toe a little bit, move the coach, and then re-measure. Otherwise, the tires stick and you'll overshoot on your adjustment.

You can then adjust the steering wheel centering by turning both tie roads the same way. (Centering the steering box is another important one,
and not very difficult to do on the coach. That's covered elsewhere by Alex Ferrara).

Drive it and re-check everything. Repeat as needed.

I used this process and it worked surprisingly well. We recently took it to an alignment shop that's done a lot of GMCs
to finally get it "right". The result?: noticeably WORSE handling than my low tech job.

So, it ain't rocket science. With patience, care, and a few basic tools, you can certainly do this yourself.

jwid,
Karen
1975 26'
 
Hey kid. Did you go visit
Katilin at mannys yet

You will like her

> Jerry's alignment process is the good stuff, but if you want to do a low
> tech front end alignment, try this:
> http://www.machinesoflovinggrace.net/gmc/frontend/index.php?p=Alignment
>
> Just the basics: first get the height all around as close to correct as
> you can get it. This will
> require numerous adjustments because every time you adjust one corner,
> it'll change the others.
> Always measure after driving a few miles and then parking on the smoothest
> flattest most level piece of concrete you can find.
> Very few alignment shops will do this for you, so it pays to get it right
> yourself first.
>
> Very important: if you do get a tool for adjusting the front ride height,
> make sure you start by first setting the
> pork chop bolts to the same number of turns on both sides if they're not
> already set that way (ie, same number of threads showing bolts that are the
> same length),
> then drive it and re-measure. If the pork chop bolts are too far off from
> each other, you will get very uneven weight loading
> and it will impact the handling badly (maybe even dangerously overloading
> one side). It will also make it darn
> near impossible to get consistent ride height readings because of the
> dynamic load imbalance (ask me how I know...).
> Using that as your starting point, adjust both sides evenly up or down,
> and only then, tweak one side if needed.
> The bolt settings will usually not be far off from each other if the
> weight loading and torsion bars are good.
>
> Set the caster by adjusting the cam bolts as described. For simplicity,
> you can skip measuring the side-to-side caster at this point and
> just go for maximum caster; you can revisit it later if necessary, but I
> didn't need to. After that, adjust camber, and then toe.
> When adjusting toe, try to keep both tie rods adjusted close to the same
> length. If you don't have the wheels on a slick surface,
> adjust toe a little bit, move the coach, and then re-measure. Otherwise,
> the tires stick and you'll overshoot on your adjustment.
>
> You can then adjust the steering wheel centering by turning both tie roads
> the same way. (Centering the steering box is another important one,
> and not very difficult to do on the coach. That's covered elsewhere by
> Alex Ferrara).
>
> Drive it and re-check everything. Repeat as needed.
>
> I used this process and it worked surprisingly well. We recently took it
> to an alignment shop that's done a lot of GMCs
> to finally get it "right". The result?: noticeably WORSE handling than
> my low tech job.
>
> So, it ain't rocket science. With patience, care, and a few basic tools,
> you can certainly do this yourself.
>
> jwid,
> Karen
> 1975 26'
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
 
> Jerry's alignment process is the good stuff, but if you want to do a low tech front end alignment, try this:
> http://www.machinesoflovinggrace.net/gmc/frontend/index.php?p=Alignment
>
> Just the basics: first get the height all around as close to correct as you can get it. This will
> require numerous adjustments because every time you adjust one corner, it'll change the others.
> Always measure after driving a few miles and then parking on the smoothest flattest most level piece of concrete you can find.
> Very few alignment shops will do this for you, so it pays to get it right yourself first.
>
> Very important: if you do get a tool for adjusting the front ride height, make sure you start by first setting the
> pork chop bolts to the same number of turns on both sides if they're not already set that way (ie, same number of threads showing bolts that are
> the same length),
> then drive it and re-measure. If the pork chop bolts are too far off from each other, you will get very uneven weight loading
> and it will impact the handling badly (maybe even dangerously overloading one side). It will also make it darn
> near impossible to get consistent ride height readings because of the dynamic load imbalance (ask me how I know...).
> Using that as your starting point, adjust both sides evenly up or down, and only then, tweak one side if needed.
> The bolt settings will usually not be far off from each other if the weight loading and torsion bars are good.
>
> Set the caster by adjusting the cam bolts as described. For simplicity, you can skip measuring the side-to-side caster at this point and
> just go for maximum caster; you can revisit it later if necessary, but I didn't need to. After that, adjust camber, and then toe.
> When adjusting toe, try to keep both tie rods adjusted close to the same length. If you don't have the wheels on a slick surface,
> adjust toe a little bit, move the coach, and then re-measure. Otherwise, the tires stick and you'll overshoot on your adjustment.
>
> You can then adjust the steering wheel centering by turning both tie roads the same way. (Centering the steering box is another important one,
> and not very difficult to do on the coach. That's covered elsewhere by Alex Ferrara).
>
> Drive it and re-check everything. Repeat as needed.
>
> I used this process and it worked surprisingly well. We recently took it to an alignment shop that's done a lot of GMCs
> to finally get it "right". The result?: noticeably WORSE handling than my low tech job.
>
> So, it ain't rocket science. With patience, care, and a few basic tools, you can certainly do this yourself.
>
> jwid,
> Karen
> 1975 26'

Thanks Karen. Low tech usually works for me, if it works. Seems like it has for you so definitely worth a try.
I will start with getting my rear height even and go from there. I will look closely at this technique and get my head wrapped around it all. Lots
to look at and learn yet.
--
Li'l Sister
'77 Kingsley, 403, with a few mods;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!
 
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GMCMI Fall 2026 Rally
Applied GMC

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