Arch I am one of those bright persons that seldom turns my rotors. Why it
is not normally necesssary if you properly maintain your brakes. What to
do. Never put your lug nuts on with an impact wrench, they warp the rotors
and cause pulsation of the brakes (and no I don't care what the mechanics
say about how expert they are). Always use a torque wrench, always.
Replace the brakes with premium pads and keep everything grease free when
you install them. When I replace the pads at regular intervals, I note how
the brakes work just prior to replacing the pads. If they do not pulsate
when braking, and if the rotors look OK with no gouges or tracks on them,
than they should not be resurfaced. Why machine a part that is already as
perfect as it will get? Rotors are expensive and turning them is just
another way for garages to make quick money.. Sad to say however that the
truth is that most do not take care of their brakes, and wait until the
sparks fly off the rotors when braking and it sounds like a freight train
trying to stop. Metal on metal does not sound good!
>Rick
>
>These are always tough things to answer. We each have different priorities.
>I am going to tell you what I did and why. If your needs are the same then
>do it, if they are not just consider it more input. Now understand that when
>I started this I had not found much on the net 2 years ago. I had nobody
>to talk to. I was flying by the seat of my pants. I was well into my brake
>job when Patrick sent me a note that we now had 12 members on the list.
>
>BRAKE LINES: I replaced mine because they did not look good on the
>outside. My problems were along the frame and across the bogie axle.
>When I started to remove mine the one across the bogie crumbled.
>Made me smile that it did it then to confirm that it needed to be done.
>I replaced mine with coated steel lines. I tried to do SS but it was not
>there yet. If I had to do it again I would go with coated steel. It takes
>2 rolls of 1/4 and one of 3/16 to do the lady. About $75. SS would be nice
>but I think that is to much money in one place. In addition It took a good
>day to flare all of the lines.
>
>BRAKE HOSES: Dont even think about it----------Do it. SS braided lines?
>To steep for my blood at this time. I have been working on mine for 18
>months now and I still have a long way to go. Still dont have a good handle
>on what else might be wrong and require attention.
>
>BRAKE PARTS: You must understand I have a lot of baggage here. I have
>had only 2 brake failures in my lifetime------but that was enough to convince
>that if there is one place I will squander money it will be on brakes. I read
>all the mags and news letters and decided to go the 80MM route up front
>and the enlarged brake cylinders on the front bogie. This made since I had
>tested my brakes on my
skidpad.(read 1/3 mile gravel road to my house).
>The front passenger wheel and rear bogies were all I could skid. So the
>whole plan made since to me. Tried calling about a kit I found but it was
>way out of line. Went to one of the mags got part #s and tried to put
>together my own kit. NAPA could supply most of the parts. Auto Zone
>had the front fancy brake pads. Nobody had the combi valve or good old
>asbestos rear brake shoes. Combi valve came from my local GMC dealer
>at well than 1/2 the price I had been quoted. This thing is a work of art!
>Solid brass-----think I will buff it and seal it. Had to go to one of our
>suppliers
>for brake shoes. Got the good ones at almost 3 times NAPAs price for todays
>shoes. Its ok I got what I wanted. I want to say something here before I get a
>lecture on my asbestos brake linings. Go do your research first. Once all of
>the
>people that had worked with this stuff died off, the death rate from
>asbestos has been very low. Check it out for the last 6 years more people
>have died from swallowing toothpicks than died from asbestos. My front
>rotors were a joy. Passenger side------some bright individual had replaced
>the pads without turning the rotors. Before that they had let the rivets eat
>the rotor. The reason this wheel would lock up is because with all of the
>hills
>and valleys on that rotor and the matching ones on the pads there was a lot
>more surface area on that rotor than the other one. To be honest I am still
>not impressed with my brakes. The one thing that I did not replace was the
>brake booster. Reason: At that time I could not find enough good information.
>I still dont think I have enough info. Once I do I will make my move.
>
>Take Care
>Arch 76 GB IL
>
>In a message dated 3/12/99 9:37:17 AM Central Standard Time, MaytagSam
>writes:
>
>>
>> Replace Brake lines? Stainless? Master Cylinder? Use OEM Parts? Use Newer
>> Parts from other upgraded applications? Warnings? Any one in the Phoenix
>> area
>> with experiance in this aspect?
>>
>> Thanx in advance for your support. Suzette and I want to join you all in
>> this
>> wonderful
>> pursuit.
>>
>
>
Tom & Marg Warner
Vernon Center NY
1976 palmbeach
