Wheel bearings, To do, or not to do?

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blur911sc

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I had a busted wheel stud on the driver's side and a wobbly wheel on the passenger side, so I assumed I'd need to take things apart and replace
bearings.
Well, the passenger side turns out to be the lower ball-joint bolts are loose and I got the wheel stud in on the driver's side without taking the hub
out of the knuckle, so the bearing is untouched.

Should I go ahead with borrowing bearing tools and drill-jigs and change the bearings? I assume you don't want to do this needlessly as every time
you press something you can make it looser. The bearings felt fine and are tight, I'm tempted to just clean everything up put it all back together.
I will still have to deal with the loose ball-joint and a ripped CV boot.

https://postimg.cc/62QznRJs

https://postimg.cc/WhpkQ1yz

--
Burl Vibert
Kingston, Ontario
1976 GMC 26 foot, Sheridan reno, don't know original model
 
I don’t know if the border is open yet. But now would be the perfect time to have Dave Lenzi rebuild the bearings with his zerk grease fitting. He
is near Flint Michigan.
Scott.
--
Scott Nutter
1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera
installed MSD Atomic EFI
Houston, Texas
 
Burl and Scott,

Last I heard, Ontario is going to loosen up the lock-down, but border crossing of non-essentials is still very restricted.

This leaves Burl with the DIY option only. That is what I would do, were I he. If he puts in the grease fitting, the bearings should be good about
forever. So, if they then should need work, He can get a set of Lenzi knuckles. Several experienced people have identified that most of the damage
to the knuckles and hubs is a result of the tear-down needed to relubricate them.

Two things here.
Grease isn't what it was 50 years ago. My daily driver is a 26yo Honda with the original bearing still running and no way to re grease them.
With a way to relubricate the bearings, a service tear-down might never be required.

The reason I would not repack them with Valvoline Syn-pro and for get it simply that the inboard seal is not that great and being able to loosen the
axle in the hub and blow the possibly fouled grease out is something I can appreciate.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Burl,

Once you decide what you are going to do, I have a front wheel bearing tool set and a knuckle guide for drilling for a grease fitting. There is also
a spacer that shows the modifications to do to the bearing spacer to let the grease flow.

Are you going to the Heritage Cruiser June rally ?? I can take them there. If you want them sooner we'll have to arrange a meeting. I think I am
about 40 miles away.
--
Al Hamilton,
76 Eleganza II,
Heart of the 1000 Islands, Ontario
 
> Burl,
>
> Once you decide what you are going to do, I have a front wheel bearing tool set and a knuckle guide for drilling for a grease fitting. There is
> also a spacer that shows the modifications to do to the bearing spacer to let the grease flow.
>
> Are you going to the Heritage Cruiser June rally ?? I can take them there. If you want them sooner we'll have to arrange a meeting. I think I am
> about 40 miles away.

Hi Al.
Yeah, you being just "down the road" makes getting the tools easier. We won't be ready for the rally, especially if I'm changing wheel bearings.

I guess I'm just weighing the pros and cons, the bearings in there might last years, or the old grease might heat up and they go on our first
excursion, don't know. I have the new parts, two sets of Set23 bearings and seals, so that's not an issue. However, from what I've read the knuckle
bores are apt to be out of tolerance and then I'm into shipping them off to Dave Lenzi to be rebuilt anyhow.
Thoughts?
--
Burl Vibert
Kingston, Ontario
1976 GMC 26 foot, Sheridan reno, don't know original model
 
Well I got my wheel bearings installed with grease fittings into knuckle this past month. What has the community done to secure the Lower ball joint.
MOOG M6215?
 
Jack up each front wheel and check the bearings for play by gripping the
top and bottom of the wheel and rocking it back and forth. If there's
perceptible play, the hub's worn and, dependent on the amount of play, may
need rebuilding. If they're tight, I'd spin the wheel (preferably before
you re-install the axles, which it sound as if you'll be removing) to check
for any bearing noise. If they sound OK, I'd run it, probably another
20,000 miles, before sending them off to Dave Lenzi.

JWID

Ken H.

> > Burl,
> >
> > Once you decide what you are going to do, I have a front wheel bearing
> tool set and a knuckle guide for drilling for a grease fitting. There is
> > also a spacer that shows the modifications to do to the bearing spacer
> to let the grease flow.
> >
> > Are you going to the Heritage Cruiser June rally ?? I can take them
> there. If you want them sooner we'll have to arrange a meeting. I think I am
> > about 40 miles away.
>
>
> Hi Al.
> Yeah, you being just "down the road" makes getting the tools easier. We
> won't be ready for the rally, especially if I'm changing wheel bearings.
>
> I guess I'm just weighing the pros and cons, the bearings in there might
> last years, or the old grease might heat up and they go on our first
> excursion, don't know. I have the new parts, two sets of Set23 bearings
> and seals, so that's not an issue. However, from what I've read the knuckle
> bores are apt to be out of tolerance and then I'm into shipping them off
> to Dave Lenzi to be rebuilt anyhow.
> Thoughts?
> --
> Burl Vibert
> Kingston, Ontario
> 1976 GMC 26 foot, Sheridan reno, don't know original model
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Hello, Tom, long time no "see"! Hope all is well with Y'All.

I don't understand the question, unless you're talking about having removed
the OEM rivets and want to replace them? In that case, check the holes for
distortion and install accurately fitted Gr 9 bolts. Probably 5/16" unless
you have to drill to 3/8". Torque them TIGHT. Some have suggested spot
welding the nuts; I don't think that's necessary -- just use your choice of
insurance: Upset nuts, Nylocks, lock washers, Pal nuts -- knowing your
experience, I'll take your advice.

Ken H.

> Well I got my wheel bearings installed with grease fittings into knuckle
> this past month. What has the community done to secure the Lower ball
> joint.
> MOOG M6215?
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Well Ken, It's all about availability. If the ball joint is in need of replacement. What are we replacing it with? for 1973/74 Transmode Moog
calls out K6215 Can you find them?
 
Burl,

Do you know the miles since the bearings were last serviced and by whom ?? Ken's tests go a long way to hitting the road with "peace of mind".
Sending them to Dave Lenzi right now would be costly I assume. When the border is open we can go to New York state and send something. I sent and
received a steering box that way.
--
Al Hamilton,
76 Eleganza II,
Heart of the 1000 Islands, Ontario
 
Tom,

I had no idea they were different than later models, much less that they're
scarce. Yep, I found them through Amazon, but at $156.05 each+shipping &
taxes, I'd certainly opt for the 1-Ton upgrade instead ('tho' I already
did).

Ken H.

> Well Ken, It's all about availability. If the ball joint is in need of
> replacement. What are we replacing it with? for 1973/74 Transmode Moog
> calls out K6215 Can you find them?
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Tom,

I forgot to give you this URL:
https://www.amazon.com/MOOG-Chassis-Products-K6215-Joint/dp/B000HQ1U7Y

And to change this thread we hijacked!

Ken H.

On Sat, May 22, 2021 at 4:10 PM Ken Henderson
wrote:

> Tom,
>
> I had no idea they were different than later models, much less that
> they're scarce. Yep, I found them through Amazon, but at $156.05
> each+shipping & taxes, I'd certainly opt for the 1-Ton upgrade instead
> ('tho' I already did).
>
> Ken H.
>
>

>
>> Well Ken, It's all about availability. If the ball joint is in need of
>> replacement. What are we replacing it with? for 1973/74 Transmode Moog
>> calls out K6215 Can you find them?
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>
>
 
> Burl,
>
> Do you know the miles since the bearings were last serviced and by whom ?? Ken's tests go a long way to hitting the road with "peace of mind".
> Sending them to Dave Lenzi right now would be costly I assume. When the border is open we can go to New York state and send something. I sent and
> received a steering box that way.

I have no service records at all.
The driver's side bearing feels tight and rolls very well. I still have to get the passenger side knuckle off to replace the CV boot on that side
too, I'll see how it feels then. It felt ok with the front end in the air and axles attached, but as Ken said, harder to tell with all that
attached.

I have never shipped anything to the US before, I imagine there are customs and brokerage fees and hassles, just like shipping anything big here can
be a PITA. I also heard that when it comes back this way it could be delayed for weeks due to all the shutdowns. Companies like Rockauto have
dedicated brokerages I guess so they don't get delayed.

--
Burl Vibert
Kingston, Ontario
1976 GMC 26 foot, Sheridan reno, don't know original model
 
But notice both the Moog and other brand are "Out of Stock". :-(

Ken H.

On Sat, May 22, 2021 at 8:16 PM Charles Boyd
wrote:

> https://www.oreillyauto.com/search?q=K6215
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Burl,

I have a US mail box in New York State, just about the same distance away as my Cdn one. It saves money, reduces the hassles, etc. the big imagery
line causes. I'll go into details in an email to you so I don't clutter up this forum with it. Once the border is open again you wont have a big
problem sending and receiving from Dave Lenzi.
--
Al Hamilton,
76 Eleganza II,
Heart of the 1000 Islands, Ontario
 
So at the point I'm at, if I just wanted to replace the CV boot on the passenger side, as well as tightening up/replacing the bolts on the lower ball
joint, should I take the whole knuckle off like I did on the driver's side? Then I'd take the driveshaft apart in place and replace the boot.

Or, should I take out the inner drive-flange bolts, wiggle the other end out of the hub and take it apart on a bench?

Or, another alternative I see by searching the forum is to disconnect the tie-rod (they say inner?) and the upper ball-joint (easier than the bottom),
and maybe the shock, then release the circlip, push in the driveshaft and there should be room to take it apart in place to pack with grease and
replace boot.
--
Burl Vibert
Kingston, Ontario
1976 GMC 26 foot, Sheridan reno, don't know original model
 
Burl,

You'll have to decide for yourself which seems the easier method. For me,
the 2nd option, removing the large outer axle nut (which may require a 3/4"
pull handle and a pipe to extend that) and the 6 inner drive flange bolts
is the easiest method. Some claim removing the oil filter is necessary to
get the axle out.. I've even seen some so-called professionals remove the
starter for clearance. I've done it many times on both sides of the coach
and never removed ANYTHING else. It takes a little figuring out where the
inner end of the axle can be slid to disengage the outer shaft -- but there
IS a way.

Ken H.

> So at the point I'm at, if I just wanted to replace the CV boot on the
> passenger side, as well as tightening up/replacing the bolts on the lower
> ball
> joint, should I take the whole knuckle off like I did on the driver's
> side? Then I'd take the driveshaft apart in place and replace the boot.
>
> Or, should I take out the inner drive-flange bolts, wiggle the other end
> out of the hub and take it apart on a bench?
>
> Or, another alternative I see by searching the forum is to disconnect the
> tie-rod (they say inner?) and the upper ball-joint (easier than the bottom),
> and maybe the shock, then release the circlip, push in the driveshaft and
> there should be room to take it apart in place to pack with grease and
> replace boot.
> --
> Burl Vibert
> Kingston, Ontario
> 1976 GMC 26 foot, Sheridan reno, don't know original model
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
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