what to use to seal the rear hatch

[Adam Raeburn]

I have tried to search and have found many interesting things but as of yet not been able to find out what are people using to reseal the rear hatch?
this summer has been spent removing the PO's amazing amounts of silicone and repairing leaks. the side windows are now done.

Next is the rain gutter and rear hatch. bought the powerbuilt impact driver for the job. so far in just 5 min of testing was able to remove 3 of the
screws from the hatch no problem.
I am planning on using the Sitka pro select construction sealant along the seam behind the rain gutter. will this work on the rear hatch? I could also
use the same butyl tape that was used on the side windows.

--
Adam Raeburn
Rothesay, NB
1976 Austin Mini
1977 GMC Palm Beach
---------------------------------------------------
Once you replace everything that is attached to something else. It will all be fixed.

 

[powwerjon]

Adam,
I have to ask is the rear door panel actually leaking? I have never heard of one leaking. I wouldn’t use the Sitka to seal the gap. If it doesn’t leak then there is nothing to fix. The common method to fill this area leak or no leak is to use a roll of 1/4” or 5/16” rubber windshield fluid hose and push it in the gap to provide a seal for that area. Starting top middle and going both ways so the seam is at the bottom.

J.R. Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States Charter Member
GMCMI
78 GMC Buskirk 29.5’ Stretch
75 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan

>
> I have tried to search and have found many interesting things but as of yet not been able to find out what are people using to reseal the rear hatch?
> this summer has been spent removing the PO's amazing amounts of silicone and repairing leaks. the side windows are now done.
>
> Next is the rain gutter and rear hatch. bought the powerbuilt impact driver for the job. so far in just 5 min of testing was able to remove 3 of the
> screws from the hatch no problem.
> I am planning on using the Sitka pro select construction sealant along the seam behind the rain gutter. will this work on the rear hatch? I could also
> use the same butyl tape that was used on the side windows.
>
>
> --
> Adam Raeburn
> Rothesay, NB
> 1976 Austin Mini
> 1977 GMC Palm Beach
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Once you replace everything that is attached to something else. It will all be fixed.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[terry1]

The rain didn't leak in until a half hour AFTER it rained. Foiled all testing with water hose. Gap at top was filled with silicone by P.O., and then I
filled it more with round foam strip and more silicone...failure. Stripped all of it out and went after the screws to take off the hatch...failure,
screws were going to rip the nuts out of the body if they were twisted any more. Factory gasket was compressed at bottom and lower sides, could
actually move hatch in and out about 5/16". Damn screws... Instead of destroying the mounting surface and hatch opening, I stuffed the crack with the
round plastic foam on the bottom half until the hatch was tight again and sprayed the upper crack with the hose to find the leak. The water would only
come in when the crack was filled with something or direct injection with the hose nozzle. When the crack was cleaned out, water did not rise high
enough in there to violate whatever factory gasket was left. So I decided the best thing was just to keep the crack clean of everything but air until
I could get the screws out. Duct tape was the temporary solution, but it lasted over FOUR YEARS...I redid it for the first time just last fall. No
more water leaks, but I do qualify for a Red Green show award if they exist :lol: .

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/unsorted-pics/p63222-test-fit.html
--
Terry Kelpien

ASE Master Technician

73 Glacier 260

Smithfield, Va.

 

[Adam Raeburn]

Yes there is actual water coming in. When I bought it I did the 1/4 inch or whatever vacuum line hose. that has been a few years now. it was raining
pretty good last night. I have the rear headliner (plastic) out so I can replace the marker lights and could easily see a fair amount of water coming
in between the hatch and body at the top.

I am really impressed with the progress of removing the rusted screws so far. using the powerbuilt impact tool. I now have the ladder and railing off.
going to finish striping the paint I put on with a roller 6 years ago so we can spray it this time. then will see if I can get the hatch off so I can
replace the "gasket" with something.

not planning on filling the gap between the hatch and body, would use the OEM gasket material if I knew what that was. I am guessing that if the
sikaflex stuff was recommended to seal the seam behind the rain gutter then it should be good enough to seal the hatch.
I am also assuming that the hatch moves (everything else does) and the seal must be flexible.
--
Adam Raeburn
Rothesay, NB
1976 Austin Mini
1977 GMC Palm Beach
---------------------------------------------------
Once you replace everything that is attached to something else. It will all be fixed.

 

[powwerjon]

Adam,
It can be a PIA to get the rear hatch screws out. You should contact Jim Bounds at the Co-Op. He sells the replacement 2-part screw assemblies. He used to have a Album on how to do it. I have a copy of it and have not been able to post it to the photo site, so it you send me your email address I will fire it off direct to you. Will repost to everyone when I can get it loaded to the photo site.

JR Wright

>
> Yes there is actual water coming in. When I bought it I did the 1/4 inch or whatever vacuum line hose. that has been a few years now. it was raining
> pretty good last night. I have the rear headliner (plastic) out so I can replace the marker lights and could easily see a fair amount of water coming
> in between the hatch and body at the top.
>
> I am really impressed with the progress of removing the rusted screws so far. using the powerbuilt impact tool. I now have the ladder and railing off.
> going to finish striping the paint I put on with a roller 6 years ago so we can spray it this time. then will see if I can get the hatch off so I can
> replace the "gasket" with something.
>
> not planning on filling the gap between the hatch and body, would use the OEM gasket material if I knew what that was. I am guessing that if the
> sikaflex stuff was recommended to seal the seam behind the rain gutter then it should be good enough to seal the hatch.
> I am also assuming that the hatch moves (everything else does) and the seal must be flexible.
> --
> Adam Raeburn
> Rothesay, NB
> 1976 Austin Mini
> 1977 GMC Palm Beach
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Once you replace everything that is attached to something else. It will all be fixed.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org