My father and uncle started a corvette restoration business in the late
70s. The company is still in business some 40+ years later, and I tend to
lean on him for my fiberglass repair advice. I'm sure those who spend their
lives servicing boats are even more knowledgeable. Anyways...
A highway cone was sucked into my lane when the semi ahead of me smacked it
with its rear axles. I ALMOST missed it, but the good ol awning frame took
the impact. It tore out 2 of the 3 screws in the base. We used medical
grade epoxy on the repair. The old timers said that theyve found it much
stronger than automotive epoxies, and less apt to temperature expansion.
Anyways, the Corvette shop uses it over automotive epoxies for any repair
that is visible to the eye. They said that you can always tell where epoxy
was used in fiberglass repair when the sun heats up the panel. The medical
grade stuff hides better.
Who knows if its true or not. Just what i was told by my dad =)
On Thu, Sep 3, 2020 at 11:46 AM Matt Colie via Gmclist <
> Richard,
>
> I am not trying to brag, but I bet that I have done more repair to the SMC
> than most owners. But, if you also recall, I have done a great deal of
> boat work.
>
> The SMC used in our coaches repairs very well with West Epoxy. Not the
> G-flex,but the standard 105/205 family. Get the small cans with the pumps.
> The pumps are essential as they will prevent a mix failure. For a repair
> like you want to do, you will also want some basic cloth (6 or 9 oz)(Not mat
> - never mat with epoxy) and a maybe few balsa blocks. You will also need
> a small amount of acetone to preclean before applying epoxy. As mentioned,
> this is an essential.
>
> I suspect from what you are saying that you broke out the top flange of
> the door. This is how I would do the repair. There is not room there to
> put
> in a balsa block, but twelve ounces of glass will be stronger than the OE.
>
> To do this, clean (file/sand) the broken edges so the part will go back
> where it belongs. Hold it there with masking tape. Have ready (Gloves of
> course) a small block covered with some PE so it will break away when
> done. A soaker board - any sacrificial piece that is not absorbent to use
> to
> saturate the glass fabric (a plastic covered piece of plywood is good).
> And, a clamp of some kind to hold the block in place while curing. I have
> two scissors in my kit. One is the dry and clean set. the other I call
> the wet shears that are very handy to trim threads and edges of the glass
> fabric during the layup process. This pair has to be easily cleaned or
> disposable.
>
> Cut the glass fabric so you have enough for the full height of the flange
> and about half again more to go to the door panel. Clean the area with
> acetone, twice. Do a mix. Read the instructions, there is some slake
> time required. First, soak the glass fabric until it is clear, then wet the
> surface it is going to. Put the saturated fabric where it goes and work
> in flat. If you go for a second layer, work that down now and clamp the
> block in there and leave it alone.
>
> There is some epoxy left in the mixing bowl. Leave that close to the work
> and it will tell you when the cure has started.
>
> If you are doing this with the door dismounted, put a layer of
> polyethylene under it. Epoxy may well run out though the joint and glue it
> to whatever
> is below.
>
> Cheap vinegar is real good for cleaning up the uncured resin.
>
> If you need, you have my phone number.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL,
> GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum
> Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
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