weatherstripping

[b52rule]

The window in the door leaks. Removed the window and the culprit seems to
be the black foam weather stripping the outlines the window. Other that it
being weather stripping is there anything special about this stuff? It
appears to be 5/8 by ¼ although it is has been compressed somewhat.

Thanks,

Len and Pat Novak
1978 GMC Kingsley
The Beast II with dash lights that work and labels you can see!
Fallbrook, CA new email: B52Rule
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375

www.bdub.net/novak/

 

[powwerjon]

Len,
The best is a butyl rubber tape which is a sticky rubber sealant material,
You can get it at most RV suppliers and shop or Jim B and Jim K also have
it. Typically supplied with new windows. Once that you put it on and
tighten the window it will squeeze and you can then trim it and clean up
with paint thinner.

J.R. Wright
GMC Great Laker
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States
GMCMHI
TZE Zone Restorations
78 Buskirk Custom 29.5' Stretch
75 Avion (Under going Frame up Restoration)

On Tue, Apr 14, 2020 at 4:09 PM Len Novak via Gmclist <

> The window in the door leaks. Removed the window and the culprit seems to
> be the black foam weather stripping the outlines the window. Other that
> it
> being weather stripping is there anything special about this stuff? It
> appears to be 5/8 by ¼ although it is has been compressed somewhat.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Len and Pat Novak
> 1978 GMC Kingsley
> The Beast II with dash lights that work and labels you can see!
> Fallbrook, CA new email: B52Rule
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375
>
> www.bdub.net/novak/
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[terry1]

I'm sure it's closed cell foam. Probably made from what is now unobtainium. There are modern substitutes in True Value and elsewhere, but they won't
last 40 years. Definitely don't replace it with any of the so-called enviro-friendly soy based foam. Use the stuff that feels like a Tempur-pedic
mattress or those seats in the space vehicles.
--
Terry Kelpien

ASE Master Technician

73 Glacier 260

Smithfield, Va.

 

[RF_Burns]

I just did one window tonight with round black butyl tape and one last week.

I used 1/4" round butyl tape that had a foam core on the first window. On my aftermarket windows it seemed a little small. So this time I went with
full butyl 3/8" diameter, which is a tad on the thick side. On my windows there is a large recess to fill or seal. The stuff I used is typically
used on windshields.

What was on these windows was a 1/8" foam with sticky back against the windows. But only a thin strip about 1/16" wide was actually pressed against
the coach body.

Most the flat butyl tape I have found is white in colour and seems to dry out vs this black round stuff seems to stay sticky for years.

Made by 3M 08620 is 1/4" diameter and 08622 is 3/8" diameter. Its available though auto parts stores.

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that

 

[b52rule]

Butyl rubber calk? Just a thought.

Len and Pat Novak
1978 GMC Kingsley
The Beast II with dash lights that work and labels you can see!
Fallbrook, CA new email: B52Rule
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375

www.bdub.net/novak/

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Bruce
Hislop via Gmclist
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2020 7:12 PM
To: gmclist
Cc: Bruce Hislop
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] weatherstripping

I just did one window tonight with round black butyl tape and one last week.

I used 1/4" round butyl tape that had a foam core on the first window. On my
aftermarket windows it seemed a little small. So this time I went with
full butyl 3/8" diameter, which is a tad on the thick side. On my windows
there is a large recess to fill or seal. The stuff I used is typically
used on windshields.

What was on these windows was a 1/8" foam with sticky back against the
windows. But only a thin strip about 1/16" wide was actually pressed against
the coach body.

Most the flat butyl tape I have found is white in colour and seems to dry
out vs this black round stuff seems to stay sticky for years.

Made by 3M 08620 is 1/4" diameter and 08622 is 3/8" diameter. Its available
though auto parts stores.

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that

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[terry1]

Gotta agree with the others, the butyl is the best, (although not easily removable), forget the foam, DKWIWThinking. Careful application will give you
a clean, practically submarine-tight seal against the body. Be sure to clean the sealing surfaces thoroughly with something that leaves no residue.
--
Terry Kelpien

ASE Master Technician

73 Glacier 260

Smithfield, Va.

 

[Jim Hupy]

One tip that I use when sealing windows, is to outline the painted area
that surrounds the window with frog tape for painting. It seals the edges
and does not allow any creep under like regular masking tape does. Be
fastidious in your application of it, (I prefer the 2" wide stuff) and keep
the spacing uniform distance from the edge of the rubber moulding. Then,
stand back and eyeball your tape job. If it pleases you, then proceed with
mounting the window. I use suction cups with grab handles both inside and
outside. Get a helper. Pick a day over 70° Farenheit, or work indoors in a
heated space. The glass shops use a heat activated butyl material in
caulking cartridges. The glass guys I know have a heating cabinet that
resembles a multi barrel anti-aircraft rocket launcher. The butyl material
goes in the barrels and is kept at the correct temperature. Work quickly,
you don't have all day with this stuff. As soon as you are completed, pull
the frog tape off. Pull it back over itself, and pully steadily and not too
quickly. It will leave you a beautiful parting line that will level or self
feather out. Then, walk away, and leave it alone until it cures. You won't
be sorry. Be absolutely sure before you start to mount the windows, THAT
EVERY LAST TRACE OF THE PREVIOUS SEALANT IS REMOVED, and that the surface
is squeaky clean.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Wed, Apr 15, 2020, 7:24 AM Terry via Gmclist
wrote:

> Gotta agree with the others, the butyl is the best, (although not easily
> removable), forget the foam, DKWIWThinking. Careful application will give
> you
> a clean, practically submarine-tight seal against the body. Be sure to
> clean the sealing surfaces thoroughly with something that leaves no
> residue.
> --
> Terry Kelpien
>
> ASE Master Technician
>
> 73 Glacier 260
>
> Smithfield, Va.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>