Water heaters? Suburban, Atwood, American Standard,Potonthe Stove

[richard waters]

> Unless fast recovery is really important to you, I'd go with the original
> 1,000 watt element. It's only 6 gallons you're heating. Main consideration
> is your shore power connection. If you're stuck with a wimpy 30 amp service
> in an older campground, the 1500 W element may not leave enough for an air
> conditioner and converter, forcing you to make an either/or choice. With the
> 1,000 W, no problem.
> My .02.
>
> Rick Staples

Rick,
I have a 1500 watt element in my water heater. It wasn't
by choice, but it was the only one they had at Home Depot
the day I went.

I agree that 1500 is stretching things, but so far I have not
had any trouble with running the A/C, water heater, converter,
fridge, etc. when connected to 30 amps. I guess I've been
lucky so far, because when you add all that stuff up it should
be in excess of 30 amps.

The nice thing about the 1500 watt element is that when you're
dry camping, which is what we usually do, you can have hot
water in the morning in less then 10 minutes by running the Onan.
About the time I finish my first cup of coffee, I can take a shower.
I don't know how well the 1000 watt element would work, as
the 1000 watt water heater element was burned out when I bought
the coach. That was my first GMC repair and I remember it well.

I am currently installing a new microwave/convection oven and
that draws considerably more current then the old microwave
only unit did. That may tip the scale in favor of a 1000 watt
element. I'll have to see.
just my $.02 worth,
Richard Waters, 76 PB, Troy, MI

 

[ronald b. kazi]

Good thinking. I always go for the biggest, sometimes it isnt the best.

Ron

>
> > I am going to put in a 1500 watt element in, as I think the 14 guage wire
> can
> > handle it, especially over the short run to the circuit panel.
>
> Ron,
> Unless fast recovery is really important to you, I'd go with the original
> 1,000 watt element. It's only 6 gallons you're heating. Main consideration
> is your shore power connection. If you're stuck with a wimpy 30 amp service
> in an older campground, the 1500 W element may not leave enough for an air
> conditioner and converter, forcing you to make an either/or choice. With the
> 1,000 W, no problem.
> My .02.
>
> Rick Staples
> '75 Eleganza
> Louisville, CO

 

[ronald b. kazi]

The Smooth On Metalset A-4 (see my prior post) is what I will probably use with
aluminum tubing or pipe run in a U shape around the "can". Have not pulled the
unit yet, I have a 60 day window to get the coach inspected by the state and
appraised for the insurance....make that 59 days.

Ron and Julie
73 Painted Desert

> In a message dated 3/20/00 9:18:20 AM Mountain Standard Time, rkazi

>
> welding wire sitting for 11 years in my garage from the yacht yard I used to
> work
> at ) great, if not, I have some epoxy that works great with aluminum. From
> the
> emails I have received, there is a lot of heat generated by the system. I
> also
> intend to hook up a fan coil unit in line with the water heater with a valve
> so
> that I can heat the rear of the coach while under way and not have to use the
> furnace.
>
> Ron. >>
>
> Ron - sounds like a great idea. I would suggest that you use similar metals
> (aluminum to aluminum) rather than copper to aluminum. If you use a metal
> filled epoxy you should be good heat transfer. There are aluminum "solder"
> rods available at welding shops that can make a very strong bond between two
> pieces of aluminum using a normal propane torch without the need of a welding
> rig. These have a flux built in. You often see this demonstrated and sold
> at State fairs and boat and RV shows and sold for exorbitant prices. Much
> cheaper at Welding Supply Houses. Since there would be no real stress on the
> joint I would think that would be the easiest thing to do. You could just
> spot solder it to keep the coils flat around the tank. If you hook it in
> series with a rear fan heater coil you might want to put insulation around
> the water tank to increase its efficiency as the remote heater will drop the
> temp of the water somewhat.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Santa Fe, NM

 

[wayne newland]

Ron

I have one of Jim's hot water tanks, and it's a work of art. He has changed the
location of the drain to the bottom, so you might want to attach the drain hose,
before sliding the tank in.

I removed the wall behind the bath to get the tank out and in. I know that the
book says that you can get it out thru the sliding doors under the sink, but my
water tank was out of shape from freezing up (PO).

When my large air tank rusted thru, I bought that from Jim, also. I only wish
that I had also purchased the air bag shields at the same time. I haven't needed
them, but....

Wayne Newland F9300 75 Palm Beach Columbia (Sun is out), Md

>
> > I am thinking of modifying my tank and simply wrapping some copper tube
> > around
> > the tank. If the tank is made of aluminum, I might change my mind unless
> I
> > can
> > find some aluminum tube.
>
> Ron,
> I'd suggest getting a replacement water heater tank with the preheat loop
> already installed. Jim DeMaere advertises a stainless steel tank for $180 in
> GMCMM magazine. I think he may use the cartridge style preheater, for an
> extra $28. He has a good reputation from what I read.
>
> Rick Staples
> '75 Eleganza
> Louisville, CO

 

[gene]

If you read Arch's great article on this, he did not use an external case,
just insulation.

http://www.gmcmotorhome.com/tech/water_heater2/index.html

gene

>In a message dated 3/21/00 10:50:19 PM Mountain Standard Time,

>
> network around the outside of your tank especially if it runs underneath the
> aluminum tank near the steel one.
> JMO
> Wayne >>
>
>Wayne - is the steel case needed? The second model did not have the
>rectangular case around the aluminum tank. Perhaps one could fabricate a
>couple of aluminum brackets and eliminate the steel box.
>
>Emery Stora
>77 Kingsley
>Santa Fe, NM
>
Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/