Waste tank repairs

peter faxon

New member
Jun 24, 2018
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40+ year old plastic is nothing like modern plastic. There are softening
agents
(plasticizers) that have outgassed and left the building years ago, leaving
behind a brittle, fragile, shell. It can be repaired in the spots you find,
only to fail in another. In the interest of peace of mind, my
recommendation is to replace, not repair your tanks. But, if you are money
challenged, the tanks can be repaired with various methods. Among them are
plastic welding, solvents that melt and bond existing pieces, and patches
that are glued into place. If you are dealing with punctures, sometimes
tapping stainless steel screws and sealing washers can be used. Each case
is going to dictate repair methods used. Cleanliness is next to Godliness,
and DRY is the name of the game.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or.

> Does anyone have experience with using ruberized spray to seal connections
> and cracks in waste tank and valve.
> We get somewhat less than 1/2 full before we start to leaking. Messy and
> embarassing.
>
> --
> *Pete Faxon*
> *1974 Glacier*
>
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We carry sealents for various application.
Not saying that material will not work, but only for short period of time.

> 40+ year old plastic is nothing like modern plastic. There are softening
> agents
> (plasticizers) that have outgassed and left the building years ago, leaving
> behind a brittle, fragile, shell. It can be repaired in the spots you find,
> only to fail in another. In the interest of peace of mind, my
> recommendation is to replace, not repair your tanks. But, if you are money
> challenged, the tanks can be repaired with various methods. Among them are
> plastic welding, solvents that melt and bond existing pieces, and patches
> that are glued into place. If you are dealing with punctures, sometimes
> tapping stainless steel screws and sealing washers can be used. Each case
> is going to dictate repair methods used. Cleanliness is next to Godliness,
> and DRY is the name of the game.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or.
>

>
> > Does anyone have experience with using ruberized spray to seal
> connections
> > and cracks in waste tank and valve.
> > We get somewhat less than 1/2 full before we start to leaking. Messy and
> > embarassing.
> >
> > --
> > *Pete Faxon*
> > *1974 Glacier*
> >
> > <
> >
> http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail
> > >
> > Virus-free.
> > www.avg.com
> > <
> >
> http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
I've used the plastic welding method to repair our cracked black tank near the toilet and shower flanges. Also where the waste valve mounts. Its been
almost 2yrs with no leaks.
--
'78 Palm Beach. car nut new to RV'ing 26 ft. 403 rebuilt in 2018, rebuilt tranny in 2014, Dave Lenzi knuckles & hubs, yada yada yada OEM chromed
wheels,Green Brady Bunch stock
 
Had mine plastic welded on the coach about 12 years ago. Cost me $25.00 and 10 minutes time. Did the same on a plastic gas tank on my Blazer after
my daughter ran a piece of steel through it.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
I repaired the breaks around the outlet in my 23' using fiberglas cloth as resin. Thorough dleaning, an alcohol wash to remove any remaining water,
and overnight dry. My hands are small enough to reach into the tank through the outlet hole, so I laid the cloth up that way. I suspect that if you
removed it and took some time you could roll a layer of fiberglas cloth over the entire tank and reinstall it. I defer however to those of you who
have greater experience with fiberglassing stuff than I.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
> Does anyone have experience with using ruberized spray to seal connections and cracks in waste tank and valve.
> We get somewhat less than 1/2 full before we start to leaking. Messy and embarassing.
> --
> *Pete Faxon*
> *1974 Glacier*

Pete,

Sorry I missed this opening, but this is not a time that I stay close to the keyboard.

Having repaired my own black tank of both physical and age damage, I can tell you that your best bet is to try to hunt up a plastic fabricating shop.
If you can find one that will weld the tank, that is a very good way to go. Yes, you will have to take the tank down to do this right, but it will be
worth the effort in the longer term.

That tank (if it is OE) is polypropylene. In its normal state, nothing will bond to it. I can suggest that you do a websearch for "flame treating
plastics". This is a technique can render the surface non-poly-whatsis and allow things to bond.

Matt
I do not know about the spray on rubber products, but I do know the West System (not related to Waste Marine, but available there) and they now have a
flexible epoxy that some have used to make successful repairs to polyXX tanks. While I have not yet used this family of products, I know the company
well enough to expect it to be good at what they say it will do.
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit