Wall switch panel issue?

aaron fogg

New member
Apr 23, 2018
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None of my wall switches work. What breaker or fuse controls those? I really need my water pump to work.
 
What year and model of coach do you have? In my 78 Royale the fuse is on a panel next to the main circuit breaker box.
--
JD Lisenby- USAF Ret
1978 Royale-455
MacDash, Manny Tranny, FI-tech, 3.70 etc etc

Navarre, FL
 
77 palm beach 403. All my fuses look good may change them anyway, and breakers are on. That panel has been sporadic for a while. I just don't know
where to start looking for the issue.
 
If you don’t have as bad fuse remove the screws that hold the panel And check for a loose wire and make sure there is 12 volts also the switch may
need to be taken apart and cleaned
--
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
 
I can go over wiring 101 again. Start with the source of power. Connect
your test apparatus (lamp or meter) to a known good ground, and then test
your test apparatus to see if it functions. If that proves good, then go to
the circuit in question, at the fuse, and verify your fuse. Then, follow
the conductor to the resistance. CHECK THE LIGHT BULB, and the socket, and
the switch(s) after that check the ground conductor. You will find it. I
know, easier said than done.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Tue, Oct 20, 2020, 8:52 AM roy keen via Gmclist
wrote:

> If you don’t have as bad fuse remove the screws that hold the panel And
> check for a loose wire and make sure there is 12 volts also the switch may
> need to be taken apart and cleaned
> --
> Roy Keen
> Minden,NV
> 76 X Glenbrook
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I just looked on the wiring diagram and they are all on fuse 2. Start there and look for a loose connection including the fuse itself. Polish up or
replace the fuse and squeeze together the fuse holder ears. If you touch anything in there and it is warm, you have found your intermittent
connection.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
> I just looked on the wiring diagram and they are all on fuse 2. Start there and look for a loose connection including the fuse itself. Polish up
> or replace the fuse and squeeze together the fuse holder ears. If you touch anything in there and it is warm, you have found your intermittent
> connection.

Of course KenB is right about this, but this is also why I have a .25cal brass brush in my kit. It has fixed a lot of problems over the years....
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
FYI. There is a kit available to easily install multiple water pump
switches, such as in bathroom and kitchen, and even bedroom or dash. (We
always keep our pump off when not in use)

On Tue, Oct 20, 2020, 5:53 PM Matt Colie via Gmclist <

> > I just looked on the wiring diagram and they are all on fuse 2. Start
> there and look for a loose connection including the fuse itself. Polish up
> > or replace the fuse and squeeze together the fuse holder ears. If you
> touch anything in there and it is warm, you have found your intermittent
> > connection.
>
> Of course KenB is right about this, but this is also why I have a .25cal
> brass brush in my kit. It has fixed a lot of problems over the years....
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL,
> GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum
> Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Ok I have power at the fuse. Power at the pump. Power at the switch when off, but nothing when the switch is on ???

Also some of the fuses have power if I remove the fuse, but not when I replace the fuse although the lights still work on that circuit?

As of now I have no fridge, no water pump, no systems monitor, no floor lights, no galley light on switch. So my whole wall + fridge is dead.

Fuse #4

1977 Palm Beach 403
 
> Ok I have power at the fuse. Power at the pump. Power at the switch when off, but nothing when the switch is on ???
> Also some of the fuses have power if I remove the fuse, but not when I replace the fuse although the lights still work on that circuit?
> As of now I have no fridge, no water pump, no systems monitor, no floor lights, no galley light on switch. So my whole wall + fridge is dead.
> Fuse #4
> 1977 Palm Beach 403

Aaron,

What you wrote does not make a lot of sense...
Are you saying that there is no power at the fuse, but the lights on that circuit still work?
Do they go out when you remover that fuse? (They may be a different circuit than you expect.)

Having a meter report power (voltage) that goes away when the circuit is loaded is a typical response when the feed to the circuit has high
resistance.
This is why I use a test light most of the time when I am trying to diagnose 12V stuff.

At least it is a PB, so you can get out the wiring diagram and work it backwards to fine the bad place. Really, make up a test light.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
On my 77-78 house wiring diagram it shows the water pump, porch light, floor lights, monitor gauges and the door galley light as being on fuse #3 with
a #12 purple wire coming off the fuse panel.

It shows the fridge, hall and LPG compartment lamps being fuse #4 with a #12 white wire coming off the fuse panel.

The fuse clips are held to the main power bus-bar by rivets. They are know to loosen and lose connection when power is drawn... in other-words you can
remove the fuse and see power at the fuse clip, but when you install the fuse and current is drawn, the power is lost across the rivet connection.
Use your voltmeter or test light to look for power at the input to the fuse and the output side of the fuse. Each point where there is a connection
could be faulty. Also I have seen in my 45 years of mobile electronics experience where the fuse itself can be internally faulty but the link does
not show as "blown".

You say you see power at that pump, but the pump does not run. There is a pressure switch at the pump which could be faulty. There is also an inline
fuse at the pump witch could be faulty or its connection is faulty.

As for laps working with the fuse removed, I can see that happening with the Galley lamp. It is fed directly from fuse 1 and also from the galley
door switch on fuse 3.

I have replaced my glass fuse panel with an ATO fuse panel because the connections in the OEM glass panel were intermittent.

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
Ok thanks. I was checking the fuse panel at the wrong location when a fuse is installed, thus grounding out my test circuit by completing the loop.

Will test everything again. Could be the panel.