Phil Swanson, Don Andrews, etc
Several years ago I had the same problem of how to build a garage shed
large enough for the GMC. Finally we came up with this plan and it has
really worked well. In fact, so well, the gentleman who actually did the
building of the structure still brings people by to show them his "handiwork".
To put it in perspective, our house is a ranch style, approx 40' deep and
80' wide, with another 30' extending east or left as you face the house.
We wanted to build a garage for the MH but maintain the integrity of the
house and it's roof line, which was about 8' from ground level.
First, we built a concrete drive extending left off the main drive and
continued it 40' deep and approximately 16' wide. Then we placed a sewer
access hole directly into the house sewer line, with cover, etc.
Next , we extended and dropped the TOP of the House roof about 2' feet and
further extended it 18' further east or left of the house..if you are
drawing it out, this now makes the ground measurements of the base of the
house 40' deep and 96' feet wide.
Next, we built the roof down to the house level on front and back, (to
maintain roof integrity) with side column and wall support and open on both
ends, front and back.
Next we placed a large wooden beam, ca 6" x 16" , underneath the roof and
across the top of the new garage about 8' from edge and ca 12' above the
garage floor. It was anchored on one side by an outside column and by the
east side of the house on the other.
(These figures are guess work since we played it by ear and didn't keep any
plans that were never drawn).
Next, we began to cut a large upside down rectangular u shape in the roof
with the top of the u-shape about 6' above the house roof line and about
10' across. With supports both along the sides and across the roof cuts, it
stays in place and doesn't slip. (Don't ask me why, all I know is that it
works).
Then we welded two steel rods, one about 6' long and other about 2'
long, forming an angle of about 120 degrees, placing one end at the roof
line and the other near the wooden beam, with a steel rod running from side
to side acting as fulcrum. This was done on both sides, with a wheel and
sleeve being placed near the roof line and the other being attached to two
small hydraulic pumps.
Next, we placed an electric motor, radio controlled, so that when turned
on, the hydraulic pump pushed down, forcing the other end of the angle
irons up, and lo, and behold, the roof raises up, allowing the motorhome to
go in or out, with gravity forcing the pump back up when roof starts down.
Lastly, we placed weather protective covering on roof, thus eliminating
roof leaks at the places of the cut. We then built a storage shed on back
side, leaving front open. From the street side, it looks a van sitting in
an open garage.
Oh yes, somewhere along the line, we ran a 220 volt circuit to the opposite
side and now have full hookups while parked. Hopefully this will give you
an idea or two about a garage for your MH. As I said before, it works for us.
Glyn
76 Glenbrook
Broken Arrow, OK
