Venting gas tanks

Billygoat

Active member
Jan 9, 2022
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Kansas City Missouri
So I was getting my hard gas and vent lines installed and hooked up and noticed my vent pipe looked pretty ragged. I’ve read that the interior of the pipe might be rusted inside. What do you guys do, simply buy a 3/8” brake line and replace it? I’ve done the high T mod already.

Thanks,
Tom
 
At amazon

Vigorous 3/8" OD Aluminum Coiled Tubing, Anodized Surface, Seamless Round Pipe 1060, 0.04" Wall Thickness, Refrigeration Tubing, Fuel Line, Automotive Oil Pipe, Compressor Tube, 25FT, Black​

 
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At amazon

Vigorous 3/8" OD Aluminum Coiled Tubing, Anodized Surface, Seamless Round Pipe 1060, 0.04" Wall Thickness, Refrigeration Tubing, Fuel Line, Automotive Oil Pipe, Compressor Tube, 25FT, Black​

Thank you, got some research to do. Appreciate it!

Tom
 
I got the tanks back up in place and noticed my vent hose looked a little pinched. I’ll do my best to give it more room but I guess I’m a bit surprised the clearance tolerances weren’t a bit more accommodating for the fuel lines. Is the back J bolts that adjustment? It just seems the front mount bolts could be a bit lower.
 
I got the tanks back up in place and noticed my vent hose looked a little pinched. I’ll do my best to give it more room but I guess I’m a bit surprised the clearance tolerances weren’t a bit more accommodating for the fuel lines. Is the back J bolts that adjustment? It just seems the front mount bolts could be a bit lower.
A very small amount of adjustment is possible with the hanger bolts, but I suspect there's another issue.

The aluminum body bears on rubber isolation pads on top of the frame rails (and the 4 rubber donuts front and rear). If the pads haven't been replaced the rubber has compressed (after only 50 years) and there isn't as much clearance along the frame rails and above the tanks. Pinched lines are common when the pads are OEM. Are yours original?
 
A very small amount of adjustment is possible with the hanger bolts, but I suspect there's another issue.

The aluminum body bears on rubber isolation pads on top of the frame rails (and the 4 rubber donuts front and rear). If the pads haven't been replaced the rubber has compressed (after only 50 years) and there isn't as much clearance along the frame rails and above the tanks. Pinched lines are common when the pads are OEM. Are yours original?
No they are new. Put in the set in from our suppliers. So I believe the pads were at least 1/2” thick. I’ll certainly look at them to make none fell out.
 
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So I’m trying to figure out how to get more room for the lines. If I want to do another frame lift I’ll have to move it back over to my driveway to use the bottle jack to lift to get pads back in if they are gone or slipped out of position. Right now its parked in storage on gravel.
Does this require loosening all the hold downs? Also when I’m under the aluminum underbelly looks like it sagged a bit between the floor cross members. When isopads were put in does that pad lift the whole body up a half inch or would that be just at the bearing points of the pad? Not sure I’m getting a wholsale 1/2” lift thruout the whole frame??
 
If all pad-resting points are lifted 1/2" evenly, the whole body will go up by that amount. If it's just a few spots here and there and you currently have uneven support, some flexing will likely occur. I prefer to slightly loosen side A, greatly loosen side B, swap all the pads on side B. Then I take up the slack on side B while leaving the mount bolts still slightly loose, and greatly loosen side A to swap the pads on side A.

I had my frame on blocks and suspension hanging, wheels off. This way I had more room to work, and I didn't have to worry about the suspension loading/unloading while I was trying to manipulate the body with jacks/blocks.
 
If all pad-resting points are lifted 1/2" evenly, the whole body will go up by that amount. If it's just a few spots here and there and you currently have uneven support, some flexing will likely occur. I prefer to slightly loosen side A, greatly loosen side B, swap all the pads on side B. Then I take up the slack on side B while leaving the mount bolts still slightly loose, and greatly loosen side A to swap the pads on side A.

I had my frame on blocks and suspension hanging, wheels off. This way I had more room to work, and I didn't have to worry about the suspension loading/unloading while I was trying to manipulate the body with jacks/blocks.
Thank you, definitely sounds like I want in my driveway before I do this. Its likely pretty spongy over at the storage place since its rained today. Ok, got the idea now how to go about it. Much appreciated!

Tom
 
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