I had the 'Corrosion problem' with my horn relay. I could hear the relay
clicking when I hit the horn on the steering wheel but no horn. Went to
install a new relay, but couldn't get the @#$%^&*( screw loose that holds
it on the firewall. So I soaked it with Rust-Off and reconnected the wires
so I could fix it later. On a whim, I was in the coach and tried the horn
which now worked perfectly. Went back to the relay and found that all of
the connectors were in sad shape. Replaced 'em and now everything is cool.
(Even have a new relay for the spares box).
>
>
>when I removed the OEM coil, reinstalled the Jacobs dist. coil cover, and
>hooked it up (5 min.) IT STARTED!!!! Another one of lifes mysteries. I >>
>
>Larry -- there is a good chance that the problem was the terminals that plug
>into the distributor. There is a lot of heat in the engine compartment and
>these terminals can get a small amount of corrosion that results in
>resistance at the terminal that can interfere with proper operation,
>especially of electronics. Clean the terminals and put a little bit of
>dielectric grease on them. If there is a ground wire also check the ground.
>
>I had a problem with my TBI fuel injection last week and it turned out to be
>the ground wire which I had installed under an intake manifold bolt on the
>engine. It had worked fine for the last 5 years but now when it was cold it
>worked OK. When it warmed up the TBI stopped pumping fuel. It took quite a
>while to figure out because my meter showed all the wires had the proper
>voltage and proper ground when the engine was not running. Sometimes you
>just have to grab some wires and wiggle them to find a bad contact. Doing
>this I found the fuel pump would start and I traced it to the ground wire.
>Apparently the thermal expansion of the bolt was loosening the contact. I
>moved the ground wire and all is OK now.
>
>Emery Stora
>77 Kingsley
>Santa Fe, NM
>
clicking when I hit the horn on the steering wheel but no horn. Went to
install a new relay, but couldn't get the @#$%^&*( screw loose that holds
it on the firewall. So I soaked it with Rust-Off and reconnected the wires
so I could fix it later. On a whim, I was in the coach and tried the horn
which now worked perfectly. Went back to the relay and found that all of
the connectors were in sad shape. Replaced 'em and now everything is cool.
(Even have a new relay for the spares box).
>
>
>when I removed the OEM coil, reinstalled the Jacobs dist. coil cover, and
>hooked it up (5 min.) IT STARTED!!!! Another one of lifes mysteries. I >>
>
>Larry -- there is a good chance that the problem was the terminals that plug
>into the distributor. There is a lot of heat in the engine compartment and
>these terminals can get a small amount of corrosion that results in
>resistance at the terminal that can interfere with proper operation,
>especially of electronics. Clean the terminals and put a little bit of
>dielectric grease on them. If there is a ground wire also check the ground.
>
>I had a problem with my TBI fuel injection last week and it turned out to be
>the ground wire which I had installed under an intake manifold bolt on the
>engine. It had worked fine for the last 5 years but now when it was cold it
>worked OK. When it warmed up the TBI stopped pumping fuel. It took quite a
>while to figure out because my meter showed all the wires had the proper
>voltage and proper ground when the engine was not running. Sometimes you
>just have to grab some wires and wiggle them to find a bad contact. Doing
>this I found the fuel pump would start and I traced it to the ground wire.
>Apparently the thermal expansion of the bolt was loosening the contact. I
>moved the ground wire and all is OK now.
>
>Emery Stora
>77 Kingsley
>Santa Fe, NM
>
