Using a two post vehicle hoist for a GMC?

Stu Rasmussen

Stu Rasmussen

New member
Jan 29, 2019
132
0
0
Greetings all -

I am in the very preliminary stages (the 'dream' stage) of building a
workshop that will also be suitable for working on vehicles.

Now that I have acquired a 26 foot motorhome the dimensions of the dream
are altering somewhat.

Although the (now larger) building cost will be an initial hurdle,
eventually I'd want to add a vehicle lift of some sort, and that leads
to the question of the day: You can put a 4-post lift onto an average
strength concrete floor but a 2-post lift requires a bit of pre-planning
and foundation concrete work to provide sufficient 'meat' to properly
anchor a lift.

So, the question is, can a GMC motorhome be lifted on a suitably sized
2-post lift or do I need a larger footprint 4-post? Can it be lifted
most anywhere along the frame (presuming the lift posts are at the CG of
the motorhome) or only at the designated lift points?

Thanks in advance for any advice -

Stu Rasmussen W7QJ
Silverton, OR
74' gutted Eleganza
 
There is a GMCer that has a 2 point lift he uses with his GMC but I can't remember whether he is on here or FB. I've never used one for a GMC though
I've had experience with 2 and 4 post lifts. I personally prefer a 4 post as, with its accessories, it is more versatile and comfortable than a 2
post.
--
Patti & Jerry Burt Fresno, CA.
73 Gmc 26' Canyon Lands
77 Palm Beach - Parts Coach
Members: FMCA - GMCMI - GMCWS
A truly happy person is one who can enjoy the scenery on a detour.
 
Hi Stu,

Only at designated points.
Others will chime in.

Marsh (rarely post any more) Wilkes
Perry Fl.

-----Original Message-----
From: Stu Rasmussen (97381.com) via Gmclist
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 10:18 PM
To: gmclist
Cc: Stu Rasmussen (97381.com)
Subject: [GMCnet] Using a two post vehicle hoist for a GMC?

Greetings all -

I am in the very preliminary stages (the 'dream' stage) of building a
workshop that will also be suitable for working on vehicles.

Now that I have acquired a 26 foot motorhome the dimensions of the dream
are altering somewhat.

Although the (now larger) building cost will be an initial hurdle,
eventually I'd want to add a vehicle lift of some sort, and that leads
to the question of the day: You can put a 4-post lift onto an average
strength concrete floor but a 2-post lift requires a bit of pre-planning
and foundation concrete work to provide sufficient 'meat' to properly
anchor a lift.

So, the question is, can a GMC motorhome be lifted on a suitably sized
2-post lift or do I need a larger footprint 4-post? Can it be lifted
most anywhere along the frame (presuming the lift posts are at the CG of
the motorhome) or only at the designated lift points?

Thanks in advance for any advice -

Stu Rasmussen W7QJ
Silverton, OR
74' gutted Eleganza

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Although you can see by the evidence it's been done, but, I'd be wary of doing so. The factory was very specific as to lift points and a two post just
doesn't jive with those recommendations. I park my 26'er under a 12,000 two post Bend Pack and have never tried to lift the coach with it. Just me I
guess. You could go with a pit for a lot less outlay of funds but some don't much care for them. With the pit you wouldn't need a 16' ceiling height
either.
Hal
--
1977 Royale 101348,

1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,

1975 Eleganza II, 101230,

1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout,

Rio Rancho, NM
 
What Hal said - I'd consider a pit.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
Of course, there are pits and there are pits.

When I build my barn, and once again that is on hold awaiting wealth, or at
least another exciting year of stock market gains, I will adopt the Ken
Henderson approach. Instead of a pit, it has what I will tell the county is
a rear indoor loading dock. This is a stepped down area at least 12 feet
wide and extending 12 feet into the shop. Build the shop on a slope so the
stepped down area can open out the back at ground level. The area is about
4 feet lower than the shop, and opens to the back. Put an apron out the
back, and steps on both sides.

Build steel ramps that you can drive out onto—adjustable width for
different vehicles or front and back of coach. Install mirrors so you can
line up on the ramps. Ken’s ramps are channels made of 1/4” plate welded to
side rails maybe 2” deep by 3/8” thick, supported on well-braced 4” steel
tubing posts.

If you drive out onto the ramps, you have access to the entire drivetrain
back to the mufflers. You can get Harbor Freight height-adjustable rolling
mechanic’s stools to sit on and roll around under the coach.

The key advantage over a pit is that you can pressure-wash it out the open
back door, and it is not claustrophobic.

You can drop the entire drivetrain straight down with this setup, and never
have to lift it out of a hole. Or use a ladder to get into the coach while
it is up on a lift.

Rick “ever the KenHen copycat” Denney

On Wed, Mar 27, 2019 at 12:58 AM Johnny Bridges via Gmclist <

> What Hal said - I'd consider a pit.
>
> --johnny
> --
> Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Rick Denney
73 x-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Off-list email to rick at rickdenney dot com
 
> Of course, there are pits and there are pits.
>
> When I build my barn, and once again that is on hold awaiting wealth, or at
> least another exciting year of stock market gains, I will adopt the Ken
> Henderson approach. Instead of a pit, it has what I will tell the county is
> a rear indoor loading dock. This is a stepped down area at least 12 feet
> wide and extending 12 feet into the shop. Build the shop on a slope so the
> stepped down area can open out the back at ground level. The area is about
> 4 feet lower than the shop, and opens to the back. Put an apron out the
> back, and steps on both sides.
>
> Build steel ramps that you can drive out onto--adjustable width for
> different vehicles or front and back of coach. Install mirrors so you can
> line up on the ramps. Ken's ramps are channels made of 1/4" plate welded to
> side rails maybe 2" deep by 3/8" thick, supported on well-braced 4" steel
> tubing posts.
>
> If you drive out onto the ramps, you have access to the entire drivetrain
> back to the mufflers. You can get Harbor Freight height-adjustable rolling
> mechanic's stools to sit on and roll around under the coach.
>
> The key advantage over a pit is that you can pressure-wash it out the open
> back door, and it is not claustrophobic.
>
> You can drop the entire drivetrain straight down with this setup, and never
> have to lift it out of a hole. Or use a ladder to get into the coach while
> it is up on a lift.
>
> Rick "ever the KenHen copycat" Denney

That is pretty much what I have available to me for GMC maintenance. I used it to change out the complete engine/transmission/final drive as an
assembly. Piece of cake (well sort of).

http://www.palmbeachgmc.com/gmc/gmc_images/ramp2.jpg[/img

http://www.palmbeachgmc.com/gmc/gmc_images/ramp2.jpg

--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Coop Roller Cam 455, Howell TBI + EBL, 3.42 FD, Quadra Bag, Macerator, Lenzi stuff, Manny Tranny etc.
 
I have seen people use 2 posts with GMC, but you better be careful.

I have worked on coaches with 4 post lift, and it sure is nice. If I was to build a "dream" place, I would want a 4 post with alinement plates.
But I would also think a pit you can put 33-50% of gmc on would be very advantageous.

Exhaust, and fuel tanks are aBout the only things you will work on in the center of the coach. 85% of the time just getting easy quick access to
under the engine/tranny is nice. And another 10% of the time you want under the rear.

Ceiling height is a need for gmc lifting.

http://www.gmcmidwestclassics.org/images/May_2013/May-13-007.jpg

--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
While I like the idea of a 2 post hoist for the additional clearance underneath to get to things, a 4 post drive on one seems so much safer to me.

I have a friend who worked for 19 years in a GM dealership. They gave him a job to do something underneath a brand new truck yet to be delivered.
The truck weighed just under 10,000 and the hoist was rated for 12,000. The truck was left locked in place up in the air over night so the cleaning
people could scrub the floors. When he arrived in the morning the two post had spread apart side to side and the truck fell partially during the
night. It took them a couple of hours to get the truck back down. After that they unbolted the hoist from the floor and scrapped it after that. The
new one was rated at 15000 and after installation they put a dealership / insurance company imposed 10,000 load limitation on it's use.

Also they are specific lifting points on the GMC and if they are used, I think that the rear end would be much heavier that the front.

We have a couple of 4 posts hoists on wheels that we roll to different hangars at times. Nothing is bolted in place. We roll it outside when someone
one wants to pressure wash a car with the steam jenny. One day last summer we had car cleaning day and we ran 9 cars on it. We steam cleaned all of
them outside. I have never tried to put a GMC on it. It is just a thought.


--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
I would recommend a 4 post more for stability than lift capacity. As you move around the coach things may shift, remove things and weight shifts. Its like a motorcycle, once the weight shifts far enough, the bike falls over.

>
> Hi Stu,
>
> Only at designated points.
> Others will chime in.
>
> Marsh (rarely post any more) Wilkes
> Perry Fl.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Stu Rasmussen (97381.com) via Gmclist Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 10:18 PM To: gmclist Cc: Stu Rasmussen (97381.com) Subject: [GMCnet] Using a two post vehicle hoist for a GMC?
>
> Greetings all -
>
> I am in the very preliminary stages (the 'dream' stage) of building a workshop that will also be suitable for working on vehicles.
>
> Now that I have acquired a 26 foot motorhome the dimensions of the dream are altering somewhat.
>
> Although the (now larger) building cost will be an initial hurdle, eventually I'd want to add a vehicle lift of some sort, and that leads to the question of the day: You can put a 4-post lift onto an average strength concrete floor but a 2-post lift requires a bit of pre-planning and foundation concrete work to provide sufficient 'meat' to properly anchor a lift.
>
> So, the question is, can a GMC motorhome be lifted on a suitably sized 2-post lift or do I need a larger footprint 4-post? Can it be lifted most anywhere along the frame (presuming the lift posts are at the CG of the motorhome) or only at the designated lift points?
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice -
>
> Stu Rasmussen W7QJ
> Silverton, OR
> 74' gutted Eleganza
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
I believe a 2 post with arms extended would still be putting upward pressure on the C shaped frame rails. That's not good. The 3 point GMC specific
lifts at Cinnabar grab the front crossover and under the two bogie boxes to allow damage free lifting. With any frame time lift you must remember to
blow off airsprings pressure at the point where the lift takes weight, or damage will insue.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
Lifting from the C portion of the frame is a non starter. I would not even
consider it but it’s your life/money.

Sully
Bellevue wa

On Thu, Mar 28, 2019 at 7:33 AM John R. Lebetski via Gmclist <

> I believe a 2 post with arms extended would still be putting upward
> pressure on the C shaped frame rails. That's not good. The 3 point GMC
> specific
> lifts at Cinnabar grab the front crossover and under the two bogie boxes
> to allow damage free lifting. With any frame time lift you must remember to
> blow off airsprings pressure at the point where the lift takes weight, or
> damage will insue.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Two post will give one better accesssbility, but need to be anchored down
on thicker concrete and know where the center of gravity is .

On Thu, Mar 28, 2019 at 12:51 PM Todd Sullivan via Gmclist <

> Lifting from the C portion of the frame is a non starter. I would not even
> consider it but it’s your life/money.
>
> Sully
> Bellevue wa
>
> On Thu, Mar 28, 2019 at 7:33 AM John R. Lebetski via Gmclist <

>
> > I believe a 2 post with arms extended would still be putting upward
> > pressure on the C shaped frame rails. That's not good. The 3 point GMC
> > specific
> > lifts at Cinnabar grab the front crossover and under the two bogie boxes
> > to allow damage free lifting. With any frame time lift you must remember
> to
> > blow off airsprings pressure at the point where the lift takes weight, or
> > damage will insue.
> > --
> > John Lebetski
> > Woodstock, IL
> > 77 Eleganza II
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
To add to those promoting my "service rack", "grease rack", or whatever
name it should have, let me say that at one time or another I've tried all
of the various racks, lifts, pits, etc., mentioned and can honestly say
that I wouldn't trade it for any of those. Here's some information about
it (ignore the cluttered shop photos, but be sure to read the multimedia
pdf):
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4271-ken-5c-27s-shop-26amp-3b-grease-rack.html

Major benefits of my fortuitous design are: Its cost (trivial). Its
convenience since one can sit down for most tasks, yet stand for things
like wheel service that require "on the floor" work with a pit. It's open
and airy, with no accumulation of fumes or liquids like with a pit. It's
especially well suited for those whose site has a slight incline.

Everyone who's seen and worked at my site is enthusiastic about it. Manny,
went home and expanded his shop to include a similar rack. Vern Crawford
came home with me today from Tallahassee to see it and is already "in
love".

I take little credit for the design since it just "sort of happened", but I
am REALLY proud of it.

Ken H.

On Tue, Mar 26, 2019 at 10:18 PM Stu Rasmussen (97381.com) via Gmclist <

>
> Greetings all -
>
> I am in the very preliminary stages (the 'dream' stage) of building a
> workshop that will also be suitable for working on vehicles.
>
> Now that I have acquired a 26 foot motorhome the dimensions of the dream
> are altering somewhat.
>
> Although the (now larger) building cost will be an initial hurdle,
> eventually I'd want to add a vehicle lift of some sort, and that leads
> to the question of the day: You can put a 4-post lift onto an average
> strength concrete floor but a 2-post lift requires a bit of pre-planning
> and foundation concrete work to provide sufficient 'meat' to properly
> anchor a lift.
>
> So, the question is, can a GMC motorhome be lifted on a suitably sized
> 2-post lift or do I need a larger footprint 4-post? Can it be lifted
> most anywhere along the frame (presuming the lift posts are at the CG of
> the motorhome) or only at the designated lift points?
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice -
>
> Stu Rasmussen W7QJ
> Silverton, OR
> 74' gutted Eleganza
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Several years ago, I purchased a 10,000lb two post lift for my garage. Before doing so, I spent a good amount of time researching lift failures and the causes. In most failures, the reason is either lack of monthly maintenance, or poor load management. Rarely is it the fault of the lift design.

Monthly maintenance consists of lubrication, inspection of high wear items, and re-torquing the anchor points. Failure of the anchor points is a common occurrence that causes the common “column spread” or “toppling” that is reported.

On my lift, I check the anchors for torque monthly, or prior to lifting my 8000lb pickup. It is shocking how often I find an anchor slightly loose. One anchor would not pull the recommended torque after a couple years of use, so I had to repair it using a special replacement anchor that uses anchoring epoxy. Now that anchor is the only one that I never find loose.

Load management is another commonly ignored task. A 10,000lb lift is rated to carry 2500lbs per arm. My 8000lb diesel pickup has very close to 5000lbs on the front axle. This puts the front arms at their max rating. Loading my truck just 6-8” too far forward has the potential to exceed my lift’s rating per arm. Knowing the Center of balance is important when approaching max capacity of your lift. Another often overlooked issue is lifting severely unbalanced loads where most of the weight is carried on the 2 forward(or 2 rear) arms. This greatly stresses the anchor-points.

So imagine this:
Using a 15000lb 2-post lift to raise your 26’ GMC coach that weighs +/- 12000lbs. Most of us haven’t a clue where the Center of balance is, and that center point can vary substantially depending on cargo and how it is placed. Just 12” too far from Center of balance can put the lift capacity over limit.

Do your homework and ask lots of questions before potentially making a bad purchase and risking your safety.

Les Burt
Montreal
'75 Eleganza 26'

>
> To add to those promoting my "service rack", "grease rack", or whatever
> name it should have, let me say that at one time or another I've tried all
> of the various racks, lifts, pits, etc., mentioned and can honestly say
> that I wouldn't trade it for any of those. Here's some information about
> it (ignore the cluttered shop photos, but be sure to read the multimedia
> pdf):
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4271-ken-5c-27s-shop-26amp-3b-grease-rack.html
>
> Major benefits of my fortuitous design are: Its cost (trivial). Its
> convenience since one can sit down for most tasks, yet stand for things
> like wheel service that require "on the floor" work with a pit. It's open
> and airy, with no accumulation of fumes or liquids like with a pit. It's
> especially well suited for those whose site has a slight incline.
>
> Everyone who's seen and worked at my site is enthusiastic about it. Manny,
> went home and expanded his shop to include a similar rack. Vern Crawford
> came home with me today from Tallahassee to see it and is already "in
> love".
>
> I take little credit for the design since it just "sort of happened", but I
> am REALLY proud of it.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 26, 2019 at 10:18 PM Stu Rasmussen (97381.com) via Gmclist <

>
>>
>> Greetings all -
>>
>> I am in the very preliminary stages (the 'dream' stage) of building a
>> workshop that will also be suitable for working on vehicles.
>>
>> Now that I have acquired a 26 foot motorhome the dimensions of the dream
>> are altering somewhat.
>>
>> Although the (now larger) building cost will be an initial hurdle,
>> eventually I'd want to add a vehicle lift of some sort, and that leads
>> to the question of the day: You can put a 4-post lift onto an average
>> strength concrete floor but a 2-post lift requires a bit of pre-planning
>> and foundation concrete work to provide sufficient 'meat' to properly
>> anchor a lift.
>>
>> So, the question is, can a GMC motorhome be lifted on a suitably sized
>> 2-post lift or do I need a larger footprint 4-post? Can it be lifted
>> most anywhere along the frame (presuming the lift posts are at the CG of
>> the motorhome) or only at the designated lift points?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any advice -
>>
>> Stu Rasmussen W7QJ
>> Silverton, OR
>> 74' gutted Eleganza
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Gr8 advise Les B.:
You are serving your fellow GMCers very well! Keep up the good work!
Mike/The Corvair a holic

Sent from my iPhone

>
> Several years ago, I purchased a 10,000lb two post lift for my garage. Before doing so, I spent a good amount of time researching lift failures and the causes. In most failures, the reason is either lack of monthly maintenance, or poor load management. Rarely is it the fault of the lift design.
>
> Monthly maintenance consists of lubrication, inspection of high wear items, and re-torquing the anchor points. Failure of the anchor points is a common occurrence that causes the common “column spread” or “toppling” that is reported.
>
> On my lift, I check the anchors for torque monthly, or prior to lifting my 8000lb pickup. It is shocking how often I find an anchor slightly loose. One anchor would not pull the recommended torque after a couple years of use, so I had to repair it using a special replacement anchor that uses anchoring epoxy. Now that anchor is the only one that I never find loose.
>
> Load management is another commonly ignored task. A 10,000lb lift is rated to carry 2500lbs per arm. My 8000lb diesel pickup has very close to 5000lbs on the front axle. This puts the front arms at their max rating. Loading my truck just 6-8” too far forward has the potential to exceed my lift’s rating per arm. Knowing the Center of balance is important when approaching max capacity of your lift. Another often overlooked issue is lifting severely unbalanced loads where most of the weight is carried on the 2 forward(or 2 rear) arms. This greatly stresses the anchor-points.
>
> So imagine this:
> Using a 15000lb 2-post lift to raise your 26’ GMC coach that weighs +/- 12000lbs. Most of us haven’t a clue where the Center of balance is, and that center point can vary substantially depending on cargo and how it is placed. Just 12” too far from Center of balance can put the lift capacity over limit.
>
> Do your homework and ask lots of questions before potentially making a bad purchase and risking your safety.
>
> Les Burt
> Montreal
> '75 Eleganza 26'
>
>

>>
>> To add to those promoting my "service rack", "grease rack", or whatever
>> name it should have, let me say that at one time or another I've tried all
>> of the various racks, lifts, pits, etc., mentioned and can honestly say
>> that I wouldn't trade it for any of those. Here's some information about
>> it (ignore the cluttered shop photos, but be sure to read the multimedia
>> pdf):
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4271-ken-5c-27s-shop-26amp-3b-grease-rack.html
>>
>> Major benefits of my fortuitous design are: Its cost (trivial). Its
>> convenience since one can sit down for most tasks, yet stand for things
>> like wheel service that require "on the floor" work with a pit. It's open
>> and airy, with no accumulation of fumes or liquids like with a pit. It's
>> especially well suited for those whose site has a slight incline.
>>
>> Everyone who's seen and worked at my site is enthusiastic about it. Manny,
>> went home and expanded his shop to include a similar rack. Vern Crawford
>> came home with me today from Tallahassee to see it and is already "in
>> love".
>>
>> I take little credit for the design since it just "sort of happened", but I
>> am REALLY proud of it.
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 26, 2019 at 10:18 PM Stu Rasmussen (97381.com) via Gmclist <

>>
>>>
>>> Greetings all -
>>>
>>> I am in the very preliminary stages (the 'dream' stage) of building a
>>> workshop that will also be suitable for working on vehicles.
>>>
>>> Now that I have acquired a 26 foot motorhome the dimensions of the dream
>>> are altering somewhat.
>>>
>>> Although the (now larger) building cost will be an initial hurdle,
>>> eventually I'd want to add a vehicle lift of some sort, and that leads
>>> to the question of the day: You can put a 4-post lift onto an average
>>> strength concrete floor but a 2-post lift requires a bit of pre-planning
>>> and foundation concrete work to provide sufficient 'meat' to properly
>>> anchor a lift.
>>>
>>> So, the question is, can a GMC motorhome be lifted on a suitably sized
>>> 2-post lift or do I need a larger footprint 4-post? Can it be lifted
>>> most anywhere along the frame (presuming the lift posts are at the CG of
>>> the motorhome) or only at the designated lift points?
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance for any advice -
>>>
>>> Stu Rasmussen W7QJ
>>> Silverton, OR
>>> 74' gutted Eleganza
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Now that I am not constrained by time and bandwidth, let me re-relate a thing I have told here before and you will immediately understand how it is
relative here.

The Frank Sargent that started Thetford was a GMC corporate guy. He had lots of friends there, and he got one of the first to leave Pontiac. Then,
it had to go to the local (to Ann Arbor) GMC dealer for some kind of warranty something. This was the first TZE that this shop had seen. The picked
it up with a typical for the day truck lift.

They bent it.......

I do not recall if the door no longer opened or closed, but it was one of the two. The situation got so that GMT&C took it back. They investigated
repairing it, but I was detailed to go to Red Holdman and bring a brand new coach back to the Dexter plant where his coach had been stored.

I think I would go with 4-post. If you get the cross-beams and jacks it is just a easy to do brake work as it is on a two post.

The lift in my barn is a 7K# two post. I use it to lift the coach all the time. ONE END OR THE OTHER.

Matt - On I95 working our way back north.
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
 
Does it bother anyone else that the 'List Price" ($6,755) in the linked
ad is $1,100 more than you can purchase the lift directly from Bendpak for?

https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/four-post-lifts/hds-14x/

If all the Best Buy Auto Equipment stuff is similarly mis-represented
then IFO am going to steer clear of them as a supplier, or at least have
a full shaker of salt on hand before buying.

Stu Rasmussen W7QJ
Silverton, Oregon
'74 gutted Eleganza

> There is also a shorter one for $500 less:
>
> https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/4-post-car-lift-bendpak-hds-14x-extended-length-p/bendpakhds-14x.htm?trk_msg=GFB1L18RHA94F0LTUTULL2GUT8&trk_contact=AGS0GHM8K7G1DFP3HD15CDIEJS&trk_sid=CUV59V8H1AQAKG9OKU8CPNG968&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=BendPak+HDS-14X+Extended+Length+Four+Post+Car+Lift+14%2c000+lb.+ALI+Certified+-+New+Gray&utm_campaign=BendPak+%26+Ranger+Huge+Renovation+Sale
>
> Wow, that link is longer than the lift! :lol:
>
 
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