For those who want a great deal on 12/110 volt refrigerators,
I was at Alex Sirum's the other day and picked up a super
clean used original frig for $200. He has several more avail.
We do not dry camp for more than just an overnight occasionally
(the 12v holds up for about 18-30) hours on the battery) and the
$1000+ was just too much for something we would rarely use.
It also allowed me to keep my unit original. Alex now has a new web
site (construction still going on) at http://www.gmcmh.com that has a
lot of parts listed. Eventually he will have an entire catalog on-line.
Mike Finnicum
78 GMC Eleganza
Naples, FL
>One of this year's projects is the replacement of the original refrigerator
>in our '77 Kingsley. It has 'sticky' compressor valves that allow it to run
>without producing any head pressure and thereby cooling.
>
>I've heard from a number of people who swear by LP units, but we seldom dry
>camp long enough to deplete our battery string (a total of 4 6 volt golf
>cart units, two front and two rear.)
>
>New RV style units are $1,000 and up, but I've seen some very nice looking
>GE 6.5 and 9.1 cu ft household refrigerators that only consume an amp to
1.5
>amps. We don't use the built in vacuum, and a little wood working would
>easily make one of these units fit nicely.
>
>There are now some very efficient modified sine-wave 12 to 110 volt
>inverters on the market. I even took a portable power back and an inverter
>along and found that a 600 watt unit will easily handle the load (although
I
>didn't try it in a locked armature condition). It would seem easy enough to
>put the inverter in the closet and power the refrigerator using 110 on that
>circuit through the existing wiring.
>
>Anyone else out there have any thoughts or suggestions? Pitfalls I haven't
>considered?
>
>This seems like such a simple solution. Have I missed something?
>
>Thanks for your replies.
>
>Mark Grady
>
>mgrady
>
I was at Alex Sirum's the other day and picked up a super
clean used original frig for $200. He has several more avail.
We do not dry camp for more than just an overnight occasionally
(the 12v holds up for about 18-30) hours on the battery) and the
$1000+ was just too much for something we would rarely use.
It also allowed me to keep my unit original. Alex now has a new web
site (construction still going on) at http://www.gmcmh.com that has a
lot of parts listed. Eventually he will have an entire catalog on-line.
Mike Finnicum
78 GMC Eleganza
Naples, FL
>One of this year's projects is the replacement of the original refrigerator
>in our '77 Kingsley. It has 'sticky' compressor valves that allow it to run
>without producing any head pressure and thereby cooling.
>
>I've heard from a number of people who swear by LP units, but we seldom dry
>camp long enough to deplete our battery string (a total of 4 6 volt golf
>cart units, two front and two rear.)
>
>New RV style units are $1,000 and up, but I've seen some very nice looking
>GE 6.5 and 9.1 cu ft household refrigerators that only consume an amp to
1.5
>amps. We don't use the built in vacuum, and a little wood working would
>easily make one of these units fit nicely.
>
>There are now some very efficient modified sine-wave 12 to 110 volt
>inverters on the market. I even took a portable power back and an inverter
>along and found that a 600 watt unit will easily handle the load (although
I
>didn't try it in a locked armature condition). It would seem easy enough to
>put the inverter in the closet and power the refrigerator using 110 on that
>circuit through the existing wiring.
>
>Anyone else out there have any thoughts or suggestions? Pitfalls I haven't
>considered?
>
>This seems like such a simple solution. Have I missed something?
>
>Thanks for your replies.
>
>Mark Grady
>
>mgrady
>