Thanks Eric and Rick
I added this to the "So you want to buy."
gene
>
>> Any big deal bending and flaring your
>> own oil lines, tranny lines, etc... I was thinking of buying a stainless
>> steel
>> falring tool, stainless steel line, and replacing my tranny lines, oil
>> cooler
>> lines, etc...
>
> Making your own lines is certainly doable, but I understand stainless is
>VERY hard to work with. Get normal plated (tin, zinc, copper, whatever)
>steel lines, and be SURE to double-flare them to minimize cracking of the
>flares. When you think about it, you don't really need stainless. The
>original steel lines lasted 25 years, yours will too.
>>
>> Also plan on adding the vacuum booster pump (detailes in Eugene Fisher's
>> site).
>> Not quite sure where this ties into the engine vacuum.
>> Don't want to put it inline with the brake booster, but rather as
>suggested
>> as a
>> supplemental engine vacuum boost. Where does it tee in? And does the
>> pressure
>> switch tee in seperately to monitor engine vacuum?
>
> Actually, the proper way IS to place it in line, just as GM did on the
>various cars it was used on. That way, the engine sucks THROUGH the vacuum
>pump, and the pump's check valves add extra security when the key is off,
>helping the main check valve (at the booster) hold vacuum in the system.
> If for some reason you feel an overwhelming need to tee the pump in on
the
>side, you'll have to add a top-quality check valve between the tee point and
>the intake manifold. Otherwise the pump will simply try to suck air and
fuel
>vapors from the engine in the event of a stall, to the pump's detriment, and
>providing NO vacuum to the booster.
> The vacuum pump has its own switch (assuming it's inline).
>
>>
>> One more question, for peace of mind I may have the radiator re-done. I
>> know
>> you have to raise the front to get the clearance to drop the radiator
out,
>> but
>> does it come out in front or behind the shelf it sits on?
>>
>
> Actually, the "shelf" is a U-shaped bracket which is unbolted and lowered
>down with the radiator. It's heavy, and a PITA.. RTFM. Take the radiator
>to a real TRUCK radiator shop for rodding out or recoring as necessary. Be
>careful of the tanks and especially the oil cooler. (It's no longer
>available.) Recommend replacing the oil and radiator hoses. (Please, no
>universal-fit spring-reinforced hoses.)
>
> HTH.
>
>Rick Staples
>'75 Eleganza
>Louisville, CO
>
Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/
I added this to the "So you want to buy."
gene
>
>> Any big deal bending and flaring your
>> own oil lines, tranny lines, etc... I was thinking of buying a stainless
>> steel
>> falring tool, stainless steel line, and replacing my tranny lines, oil
>> cooler
>> lines, etc...
>
> Making your own lines is certainly doable, but I understand stainless is
>VERY hard to work with. Get normal plated (tin, zinc, copper, whatever)
>steel lines, and be SURE to double-flare them to minimize cracking of the
>flares. When you think about it, you don't really need stainless. The
>original steel lines lasted 25 years, yours will too.
>>
>> Also plan on adding the vacuum booster pump (detailes in Eugene Fisher's
>> site).
>> Not quite sure where this ties into the engine vacuum.
>> Don't want to put it inline with the brake booster, but rather as
>suggested
>> as a
>> supplemental engine vacuum boost. Where does it tee in? And does the
>> pressure
>> switch tee in seperately to monitor engine vacuum?
>
> Actually, the proper way IS to place it in line, just as GM did on the
>various cars it was used on. That way, the engine sucks THROUGH the vacuum
>pump, and the pump's check valves add extra security when the key is off,
>helping the main check valve (at the booster) hold vacuum in the system.
> If for some reason you feel an overwhelming need to tee the pump in on
the
>side, you'll have to add a top-quality check valve between the tee point and
>the intake manifold. Otherwise the pump will simply try to suck air and
fuel
>vapors from the engine in the event of a stall, to the pump's detriment, and
>providing NO vacuum to the booster.
> The vacuum pump has its own switch (assuming it's inline).
>
>>
>> One more question, for peace of mind I may have the radiator re-done. I
>> know
>> you have to raise the front to get the clearance to drop the radiator
out,
>> but
>> does it come out in front or behind the shelf it sits on?
>>
>
> Actually, the "shelf" is a U-shaped bracket which is unbolted and lowered
>down with the radiator. It's heavy, and a PITA.. RTFM. Take the radiator
>to a real TRUCK radiator shop for rodding out or recoring as necessary. Be
>careful of the tanks and especially the oil cooler. (It's no longer
>available.) Recommend replacing the oil and radiator hoses. (Please, no
>universal-fit spring-reinforced hoses.)
>
> HTH.
>
>Rick Staples
>'75 Eleganza
>Louisville, CO
>
Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/
