My line between the pump and carb filter appears to be copper with an insulating sleeve.
--
Jeffrey Fleming
1976 edgemonte
Living in Maine
--
Jeffrey Fleming
1976 edgemonte
Living in Maine
Up hill hesitation
- Thread starter wardhillarch
- Start date
> the next time I change my fuel lines, because mine are now 10 years old, I will be using nylon and push lock connects.
> This will solve 2 problems:
>
> 1. it's a ton easier to use than steel lines, bending is a non issue
> 2. It will eliminate all rubber connections between the steel lines however short
> 3. It makes it easy to remove and replace the tanks
Keith,
While the above is largely true, many of the "Push-Lock" for nylon fittings use a rubber O-ring as the actual line seal. If that part is not
teflon/viton, you may still have problems.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> This will solve 2 problems:
>
> 1. it's a ton easier to use than steel lines, bending is a non issue
> 2. It will eliminate all rubber connections between the steel lines however short
> 3. It makes it easy to remove and replace the tanks
Keith,
While the above is largely true, many of the "Push-Lock" for nylon fittings use a rubber O-ring as the actual line seal. If that part is not
teflon/viton, you may still have problems.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> My line between the pump and carb filter appears to be copper with an insulating sleeve.
Jeff,
Please look at that carefully.
If it is copper, think about changing it out. Copper is very prone to fatigue failure.
It could also be one of the brass/steel materials and if that is the case, it is good as it is.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Jeff,
Please look at that carefully.
If it is copper, think about changing it out. Copper is very prone to fatigue failure.
It could also be one of the brass/steel materials and if that is the case, it is good as it is.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Push fittings are not as trouble free as one thinks, There will be times
one need to remove them Also it does not take much to cut the plastic
material.
If it is that good and easy , I would think the manufactures will use them.
I have used them on air, and not a very ease release out in the field.
The current rubber fuel hoses have the BARRIER built into the hose. Nothing
more than a nylon hose with rubber and fiber over it to fight the Ethanol.
On Thu, Aug 15, 2019 at 3:37 PM Matt Colie via Gmclist <
> > My line between the pump and carb filter appears to be copper with an
> insulating sleeve.
>
> Jeff,
>
> Please look at that carefully.
> If it is copper, think about changing it out. Copper is very prone to
> fatigue failure.
> It could also be one of the brass/steel materials and if that is the case,
> it is good as it is.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
one need to remove them Also it does not take much to cut the plastic
material.
If it is that good and easy , I would think the manufactures will use them.
I have used them on air, and not a very ease release out in the field.
The current rubber fuel hoses have the BARRIER built into the hose. Nothing
more than a nylon hose with rubber and fiber over it to fight the Ethanol.
On Thu, Aug 15, 2019 at 3:37 PM Matt Colie via Gmclist <
> > My line between the pump and carb filter appears to be copper with an
> insulating sleeve.
>
> Jeff,
>
> Please look at that carefully.
> If it is copper, think about changing it out. Copper is very prone to
> fatigue failure.
> It could also be one of the brass/steel materials and if that is the case,
> it is good as it is.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
> Could be brass but how can I tell
Jeff,
Brass would be passable, but try a magnet on it. It may be one of the laminated lines. Those are great for both fatigue and corrosion.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Jeff,
Brass would be passable, but try a magnet on it. It may be one of the laminated lines. Those are great for both fatigue and corrosion.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
So I'm trying to confirm my suspicions on up hill hesitations. Many have said new fuel lines which I'm about to take on. Ive replaced the carb filter
also did a tune up on distributor with new cap,rotor and coil. Freed up advance. I still get stalling going up a hill, but if I let off the gas I can
creep along. Noticed a gas smell once stopped , engine off, near rear of coach where tanks are. Nothing looks wet but distinct smell . Guessing bad
fuel line. Does this coincide with people's experiences on this issue? I was at my Nor'easter chapter rally this weekend and a member said 50' of hose
and a days work to do the lines. Tanks can be hinged down and lines can be accessed at top. Yes?
Regards,
Jeff
--
Jeffrey Fleming
1976 edgemonte
Living in Maine
also did a tune up on distributor with new cap,rotor and coil. Freed up advance. I still get stalling going up a hill, but if I let off the gas I can
creep along. Noticed a gas smell once stopped , engine off, near rear of coach where tanks are. Nothing looks wet but distinct smell . Guessing bad
fuel line. Does this coincide with people's experiences on this issue? I was at my Nor'easter chapter rally this weekend and a member said 50' of hose
and a days work to do the lines. Tanks can be hinged down and lines can be accessed at top. Yes?
Regards,
Jeff
--
Jeffrey Fleming
1976 edgemonte
Living in Maine
The fittings and tubing I use are what Ford uses in new cars. I'm pretty confidant it's as reliable as it gets.
The problem with steel lines are termination and fabrication. How do you connect the steel line to the tank outlet? A rubber hose? A compression fitting? Both have issues, rubber hose is rubber hose, compression fittings damage the outlet, aren't all that reliable under vibration and prone to loosening when putting the tanks back in.
The push to connect fittings are made to allow movement and made to withstand modern fuels. Nylon line flexes easily and is also fuel resistant.
The only downside to nylon is it's not fireproof
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Jeffrey Fleming via Gmclist
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2019 2:21 PM
To: gmclist
Cc: Jeffrey Fleming
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Up hill hesitation
So I'm trying to confirm my suspicions on up hill hesitations. Many have said new fuel lines which I'm about to take on. Ive replaced the carb filter
also did a tune up on distributor with new cap,rotor and coil. Freed up advance. I still get stalling going up a hill, but if I let off the gas I can
creep along. Noticed a gas smell once stopped , engine off, near rear of coach where tanks are. Nothing looks wet but distinct smell . Guessing bad
fuel line. Does this coincide with people's experiences on this issue? I was at my Nor'easter chapter rally this weekend and a member said 50' of hose
and a days work to do the lines. Tanks can be hinged down and lines can be accessed at top. Yes?
Regards,
Jeff
--
Jeffrey Fleming
1976 edgemonte
Living in Maine
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
The problem with steel lines are termination and fabrication. How do you connect the steel line to the tank outlet? A rubber hose? A compression fitting? Both have issues, rubber hose is rubber hose, compression fittings damage the outlet, aren't all that reliable under vibration and prone to loosening when putting the tanks back in.
The push to connect fittings are made to allow movement and made to withstand modern fuels. Nylon line flexes easily and is also fuel resistant.
The only downside to nylon is it's not fireproof
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Jeffrey Fleming via Gmclist
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2019 2:21 PM
To: gmclist
Cc: Jeffrey Fleming
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Up hill hesitation
So I'm trying to confirm my suspicions on up hill hesitations. Many have said new fuel lines which I'm about to take on. Ive replaced the carb filter
also did a tune up on distributor with new cap,rotor and coil. Freed up advance. I still get stalling going up a hill, but if I let off the gas I can
creep along. Noticed a gas smell once stopped , engine off, near rear of coach where tanks are. Nothing looks wet but distinct smell . Guessing bad
fuel line. Does this coincide with people's experiences on this issue? I was at my Nor'easter chapter rally this weekend and a member said 50' of hose
and a days work to do the lines. Tanks can be hinged down and lines can be accessed at top. Yes?
Regards,
Jeff
--
Jeffrey Fleming
1976 edgemonte
Living in Maine
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
I think if it was me I'd connect a boat gas tank to it at the frame behind the drivers seat. This would eliminate the fuel tanks / sending unit /
sock / tank selector valve and the rear hoses as possibilities. Mine came with a small can filter along the frame there anyway, so I would just
connect there and run hose up through the window and put the gas tank on the floor, just to run it up the hill and see if the problem goes away.
Also, after seeing what was in my gas tanks and what the socks looked like, I would also recommend dropping the tanks and at least looking inside.
You may end up shocked. It's not hard to drop them. A floor jack fits in the center pocket on the bottom of the tank. An extra hand to balance the
tank would be helpful. Drain the tanks, there are drain plugs. Push up on the tank and remove the rear straps, then the front bracket. If you drop
the front first, the rear straps are impossible to get out. I tried the ratchet straps idea but they were just in the way.
I also ended up buying a pair of FG110A sending units from RockAuto for $50 each, and bent the dip tubes and float wire such that they were set for a
4-3/4 to 5" deep tank. Now the fuel gages work, which is helpful.
--
Todd Snyder, Buffalo NY
1976 Eleganza II
sock / tank selector valve and the rear hoses as possibilities. Mine came with a small can filter along the frame there anyway, so I would just
connect there and run hose up through the window and put the gas tank on the floor, just to run it up the hill and see if the problem goes away.
Also, after seeing what was in my gas tanks and what the socks looked like, I would also recommend dropping the tanks and at least looking inside.
You may end up shocked. It's not hard to drop them. A floor jack fits in the center pocket on the bottom of the tank. An extra hand to balance the
tank would be helpful. Drain the tanks, there are drain plugs. Push up on the tank and remove the rear straps, then the front bracket. If you drop
the front first, the rear straps are impossible to get out. I tried the ratchet straps idea but they were just in the way.
I also ended up buying a pair of FG110A sending units from RockAuto for $50 each, and bent the dip tubes and float wire such that they were set for a
4-3/4 to 5" deep tank. Now the fuel gages work, which is helpful.
--
Todd Snyder, Buffalo NY
1976 Eleganza II
Fuel line issues seem to be all to common. Replacing them
Properly is a smart move.
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/2017/04/fuel-lines.html?m=1
Best thing is to make the ramps. Give me a call when you are ready to tackle the project.
I will warn, the tanks are not terrible job to do. But it does take some flexibility and con-torsion. Jeff- you may struggle, so think about some
help. Getting hoses to lay where they should when lifting the tank in place can take some reaching.
.
--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
Properly is a smart move.
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/2017/04/fuel-lines.html?m=1
Best thing is to make the ramps. Give me a call when you are ready to tackle the project.
I will warn, the tanks are not terrible job to do. But it does take some flexibility and con-torsion. Jeff- you may struggle, so think about some
help. Getting hoses to lay where they should when lifting the tank in place can take some reaching.
.
--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
Thanks Jon, this is great . A buddy of mine offered to be my left hand so i'm Going to move forward with this project. Need to build ramps first
--
Jeffrey Fleming
1976 edgemonte
Living in Maine
--
Jeffrey Fleming
1976 edgemonte
Living in Maine
> The fittings and tubing I use are what Ford uses in new cars. I'm pretty confidant it's as reliable as it gets.
> The problem with steel lines are termination and fabrication. How do you connect the steel line to the tank outlet? A rubber hose? A compression
> fitting? Both have issues, rubber hose is rubber hose, compression fittings damage the outlet, aren't all that reliable under vibration and prone to
> loosening when putting the tanks back in.
>
> The push to connect fittings are made to allow movement and made to withstand modern fuels. Nylon line flexes easily and is also fuel resistant.
> The only downside to nylon is it's not fireproof
The very last time I had the tanks down, I used a jewelers saw to cut the bubble off the ends of both fittings and then used brass compression
fittings to connect to the Polyarmor lines that are now on top of the tanks. I don't have the full maintenance log in the house, but the abbreviated
list makes it look like I did that about 8 years and 40K ago. I now have no rubber I can't replace by lying on the ground. And there isn't much
rubber left at all.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> The problem with steel lines are termination and fabrication. How do you connect the steel line to the tank outlet? A rubber hose? A compression
> fitting? Both have issues, rubber hose is rubber hose, compression fittings damage the outlet, aren't all that reliable under vibration and prone to
> loosening when putting the tanks back in.
>
> The push to connect fittings are made to allow movement and made to withstand modern fuels. Nylon line flexes easily and is also fuel resistant.
> The only downside to nylon is it's not fireproof
The very last time I had the tanks down, I used a jewelers saw to cut the bubble off the ends of both fittings and then used brass compression
fittings to connect to the Polyarmor lines that are now on top of the tanks. I don't have the full maintenance log in the house, but the abbreviated
list makes it look like I did that about 8 years and 40K ago. I now have no rubber I can't replace by lying on the ground. And there isn't much
rubber left at all.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Wanna make the lines lie in the depression in the tank? Easy. Get a roll of tape and tape it down in the depression.
--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
Not only the fuel and vent lines, but particularly the charcoal canister
lines. What's that you say? Those lines are unimportant, you say? They only
carry fumes, you say? Ah contraire, Mon Ami, they carry fuel to the
vapor/fuel separator in the drivers side rear wheel well, and if it is
cracked or faulty or the hose clamps are loose, is a big source for
gasoline leaks and fumes.
Jim Hupy
On Wed, Aug 21, 2019, 7:59 AM Johnny Bridges via Gmclist <
> Wanna make the lines lie in the depression in the tank? Easy. Get a
> roll of tape and tape it down in the depression.
>
> --johnny
> --
> Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
lines. What's that you say? Those lines are unimportant, you say? They only
carry fumes, you say? Ah contraire, Mon Ami, they carry fuel to the
vapor/fuel separator in the drivers side rear wheel well, and if it is
cracked or faulty or the hose clamps are loose, is a big source for
gasoline leaks and fumes.
Jim Hupy
On Wed, Aug 21, 2019, 7:59 AM Johnny Bridges via Gmclist <
> Wanna make the lines lie in the depression in the tank? Easy. Get a
> roll of tape and tape it down in the depression.
>
> --johnny
> --
> Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
