Trojan 6V Battery issue

T

trapper_canada

Member
May 6, 2015
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0
6
Hi all,
So for 2.5 years I've been running a pair of Trojan T-105 6V batteries and they have been working great. I have a PD Power Converter/Charger.

Well the other day the batteries just went dead. I came out and there was nothing. I thought maybe I left lights on or something. Anyways I plugged
in the RV and let it charge throughout the day and night. My battery monitor said I was at 100% but I couldn't get more than one LED light going! No
fan...nothing.

I pulled the batteries and put in another 12v deep cycle I had laying around and everything inside the coach is fine.

When I put the hydrometer in the Trojans they all read in the 1.3 range which according to Trojan is full charge.

But this is where it gets odd... when I check the volts they both are in the 8.3-8.4 range. 16.7V when I have them in series.

Thoughts?
--
75 Glenbrook
 
Either battery posts or cables is where I would start.
Jim Hupy

On Wed, Jul 4, 2018, 3:58 PM travis
wrote:

> Hi all,
> So for 2.5 years I've been running a pair of Trojan T-105 6V batteries and
> they have been working great. I have a PD Power Converter/Charger.
>
> Well the other day the batteries just went dead. I came out and there was
> nothing. I thought maybe I left lights on or something. Anyways I plugged
> in the RV and let it charge throughout the day and night. My battery
> monitor said I was at 100% but I couldn't get more than one LED light
> going! No
> fan...nothing.
>
> I pulled the batteries and put in another 12v deep cycle I had laying
> around and everything inside the coach is fine.
>
>
> When I put the hydrometer in the Trojans they all read in the 1.3 range
> which according to Trojan is full charge.
>
> But this is where it gets odd... when I check the volts they both are in
> the 8.3-8.4 range. 16.7V when I have them in series.
>
>
> Thoughts?
> --
> 75 Glenbrook
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
That is what I was thinking. They make an 8 volt golf cart battery. If that is not it, then start cleaning cables. Especially the positive ones.
Both ends.

Also find another meter. Your's might be off. I had one of those Harbor Freight ones that read 2 volts too high at 12vdc. It drove me nuts for a
while because I could not figure out some of the readings I was getting.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
> Also find another meter. Your's might be off. I had one of those Harbor Freight ones that read 2 volts too high at 12vdc. It drove me nuts for
> a while because I could not figure out some of the readings I was getting.

That's a good idea. I do have another....
--
75 Glenbrook
 
+1 On trying a different meter. 16.7V is higher than a disconnected battery should ever be (or physically can be I believe, except with a surface
charge within minutes of disconnecting a malfunctioning charger, or equalizing etc).

That wouldn't explain why they don't work though.
Try connecting a larger 12V load directly to the batteries, like a spare water pump or something.
--
Justin Brady
http://www.thegmcrv.com/
1976 Palm Beach 455
 
If the meter is NOT labelled 'Fluke' it is just an indicator.

>
>

> > Also find another meter. Your's might be off. I had one of those Harbor Freight ones that read 2 volts too high at 12vdc. It drove me nuts for
> > a while because I could not figure out some of the readings I was getting.
>
>
>
> That's a good idea. I do have another....
> --
> 75 Glenbrook
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Simpson 260 can be had reasonably on eBay and for GMC use it's plenty accurate... and easier to read. "If it qwirks, it's a Fluke." Take that either
way :)

--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
I'd also get a load meter to test those batteries. Having voltage doesn't necessarily mean amperage is available. Maybe a bad connection internally or
externally as someone suggested.
--
1977 26 foot 403
 
Simpson 260 is my favorite analog meter. For people who don't do electric everyday, the digital meters are simpler from them to use. I have never seen a 260 that was EVER out of calibration.

>
>
> Simpson 260 can be had reasonably on eBay and for GMC use it's plenty accurate... and easier to read. "If it qwirks, it's a Fluke." Take that either
> way :)
>
> --
> 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
> Simpson 260 is my favorite analog meter. For people who don't do electric everyday, the digital meters are simpler from them to use. I have never
> seen a 260 that was EVER out of calibration.

I have a 260. (It was my fathers.)
I also have a 77(original - one of the first shipment to the Detroit area ~40 years old.
A newer 77 so it has a fuse on the 10 amp scale. (a good thing to have)
A original 87 and Bell DC current probe (that I bought for a specific purpose and then I left that job.)

All these Flukes have the flying spot displays that are an 3200 count /0.1second gate analog so you can see when/how things change. As good as any
analog that way, and the have much more "sense of humor" than do analog. They also shift gears on their own so you never have a wrong scale.

I will always keep the 260 for the same reason I keep a lot of things. It will work without any batteries.
(Like the hand drills, the box compass, the chronometer and sextant and paper charts.)

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
> If the meter is NOT labelled 'Fluke' it is just an indicator.

Years ago we switched from a mixture of Triplett an Simpson analog meters to Fluke digitals. We ordered thousands of them and Fluke even changed the
front label on them to include our company name.

Well it was a disaster. We had so many failures and their repair service was so bad that we started to repair them in our own repair facility in
Chicago that normally did our oscilloscopes repair and bi-annual calibrations. Their accuracy was poor and off sometimes as much as 15%. Luckily
most of the guys still has their old analog meters as back ups when readings looked bad or when they quit completely. Or they would drive to the
office and grab a Simpson 260s. I still have a couple of broken Flukes around here somewhere. Laurie's company issued Fluke still works. I saw her
using it on something last week.

The same thing happened when we changed to Snap On for hand tools. We broke so many screwdrivers that we started calling them Snap Off tools.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Matt, if you tune the digital meter through the dip on a resonant circuit you'll never find the dip point. An analog movement makes it simple. Use
the digital where it belongs... looking for a voltage to a couple of decimal places where it matters. 5 volts on some stuff, etc.

--johnny

DOS Tip: Don't trust the cheap digital meter of there's any king of a transmitter nearby.
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
find the dip point. An analog movement makes it simple. Use the digital where it belongs... looking for a voltage to a couple of decimal places
where it matters. 5 volts on some stuff, etc.

--johnny
Johnny,

Funny you should mention this.

I did exactly that with a F77 and it worked out better than expected. The 0.1 second gate bar display works.

Matt - I answered this last night and it seems it got lost.

--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
It kinda does. I've both, the analog is way easier in that - and many more - instances. I can rock the dip and my Fluke stays on the same dot while
the anaklog needle shows true minimum.

--johnny

--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
Never turn on my flukes
Always use one of my 20 hf free meters 😀

On Sat, Jul 7, 2018 at 6:02 AM Johnny Bridges via Gmclist <

> It kinda does. I've both, the analog is way easier in that - and many
> more - instances. I can rock the dip and my Fluke stays on the same dot
> while
> the anaklog needle shows true minimum.
>
> --johnny
>
>
> --
> 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
 
I have a Fluke 77 that is at least 35 years old. Hasn't failed me yet.
Never have replaced the battery. Bought a backup Digital VM, to have in the
coach. First time I used it the tip of one of the probes broke. Tried to
obtain a replacement from mfg. ROTSA RUCK. Sits in a drawer, batteries
dead, as a constant reminder to NEVER, NEVER buy offshore crap that you
might have to depend upon. Your experience may vary.
If I want a quick check, I use a test lamp with a sharp probe and an
alligator clip on the end of the test lead. Quick and dirty, but it always
works.
Jim Hupy

> Never turn on my flukes
> Always use one of my 20 hf free meters 😀
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 7, 2018 at 6:02 AM Johnny Bridges via Gmclist <

>
> > It kinda does. I've both, the analog is way easier in that - and many
> > more - instances. I can rock the dip and my Fluke stays on the same dot
> > while
> > the anaklog needle shows true minimum.
> >
> > --johnny
> >
> >
> > --
> > 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> > Braselton, Ga.
> > "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to
> me
> > in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> --
> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
> -------
> http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/
> Alternator Protection Cable
> http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
If you replaced the Trojans with another battery and the coach reacted normally, good lights and voltage readings, your problem goes directly back to
the battery.
Either the cable at the battery was dirty and you disturbed the corrosion when you changed the battery or the problem is directly with the battery.

Get an automotive load tester, if you don't have one and can't borrow one, Harbor freight must have them for cheap. put a test on the batteries in
the normal 12v configuration. If the load test is good, then the mystery continues. I am betting there may be an internal failure. If the lead
fractures, the voltages can get interesting. Getting a higher than usual reading is certainly odd, but it is pretty normal to get a "normal" reading
on a bad battery but when connected up, the voltages goes way down.

I've only been able to test electrically, some of my own batteries. If there is an internal fracture of the lead, there is really no way to see it
since the batteries are sealed so well.

Going back the the RV, when you put a different 12v battery on the circuit and you said everything was "normal" and operating correctly, that
eliminates everything from the battery posts to the RV. Only the Tie cable and or connections between the series connected batts can be suspect
outside of the batteries themselves. If the cable is operational, then check and clean the connectors. Again, with no load, you could get a normal
reading but put load on and the reading will go down, caused by a bad connection. This would mimic a crack in the lead inside the battery.

A load test on the batteries should give you an answer. It could be only one battery causing the problem but generally, I don't think we are supposed
to mix batteries by age if you only have one bad one. The Trojans sound too new to have gone bad but it happens.
--
GatsbysCruise. \
74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU STUDIO -
UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center
 
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