Again, my usual disclaimer... I'm not an automotive engineer, but --
[chainsaw]
> He said---- just shifted down ---- Mine never did shift down, I pulled
> it down at 2000 rpm manually and then put it back at 3000 rpm.
A *lot* of newer stuff uses the engine control module/computer to set tranny
shift points in electronically shifted transmissions. The ECM is aware of
the manifold vacuum (and hence engine load) via the MAP (Manifold Absolute
Pressure) transducer.
The old TH-four and a quarter isn't that sophisticated.
- - - - - - - - - Thread number 2 - - - - - - - - - -
> I think the opinion against may be that you'll forget to switch it back,
> or rather off.
- and - {edited with the same chainsaw}
> Someone recently raised the interesting idea of installing a floor-
> mounted switch to force downshifts.
> I assume this could be a second "headlight dimmer" type of switch
> wired in parallel with the kick-down switch that closes when you stomp
> on the accelerator pedal. Is this correct?
> Would this method of selecting second gear at part-throttle have
> exactly the same effect as using the shift lever?
Uh -- yeah, kinda' --
There was an article in GMCMHMM (I've got to much goin' on to look it up
tonight)
that said --- now this is from memory, so don't beat me up if I'm full of
it ---
When the electric solenoid was used to force a downshift, that the tranny
was forced to second (or I suppose even first gear) but that
*there_was_no_engine_breaking* when downshifting using the electric kickdown
switch.
If I remember correctly, this would give you a reason to switch from Fruit
of the loom to Depends if you were going down a big enough hill.
I think somebody should look this up, or speak up of you've had personal
experience with this modification.
That would, however, make the electric kickdown an 'overdrive', Georgia
overdrive, that is!
Mark
[chainsaw]
> He said---- just shifted down ---- Mine never did shift down, I pulled
> it down at 2000 rpm manually and then put it back at 3000 rpm.
A *lot* of newer stuff uses the engine control module/computer to set tranny
shift points in electronically shifted transmissions. The ECM is aware of
the manifold vacuum (and hence engine load) via the MAP (Manifold Absolute
Pressure) transducer.
The old TH-four and a quarter isn't that sophisticated.
- - - - - - - - - Thread number 2 - - - - - - - - - -
> I think the opinion against may be that you'll forget to switch it back,
> or rather off.
- and - {edited with the same chainsaw}
> Someone recently raised the interesting idea of installing a floor-
> mounted switch to force downshifts.
> I assume this could be a second "headlight dimmer" type of switch
> wired in parallel with the kick-down switch that closes when you stomp
> on the accelerator pedal. Is this correct?
> Would this method of selecting second gear at part-throttle have
> exactly the same effect as using the shift lever?
Uh -- yeah, kinda' --
There was an article in GMCMHMM (I've got to much goin' on to look it up
tonight)
that said --- now this is from memory, so don't beat me up if I'm full of
it ---
When the electric solenoid was used to force a downshift, that the tranny
was forced to second (or I suppose even first gear) but that
*there_was_no_engine_breaking* when downshifting using the electric kickdown
switch.
If I remember correctly, this would give you a reason to switch from Fruit
of the loom to Depends if you were going down a big enough hill.
I think somebody should look this up, or speak up of you've had personal
experience with this modification.
That would, however, make the electric kickdown an 'overdrive', Georgia
overdrive, that is!
Mark
