Transmission Dipstick

[adolph santorine]

Did anyone make on that came out the front?

Is it still available?

Thanks

Dolph Santorine

DE AD0LF

Wheeling, West Virginia

1977 ex-Palm Beach TZE167V100820
Howell EFI/EBL , Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission

 

[jim kanomata1]

Yes and we carry them

On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 10:26 PM Adolph Santorine via Gmclist <

> Did anyone make on that came out the front?
>
> Is it still available?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dolph Santorine
>
> DE AD0LF
>
> Wheeling, West Virginia
>
> 1977 ex-Palm Beach TZE167V100820
> Howell EFI/EBL , Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

 

[Ken H.]

Dolph,

I made one 15+ years ago by brazing a 3/8" tube stub into the original
where the lowest bend is in the OEM tube. A longer tube attached with a
coupler (like the engine dipstick) led to the area beside the engine
dipstick. A dipstick made from 1/8" steel cable (like the one for my
engine) served better than a flat one (which wouldn't follow any
inadvertent complex bend in the tube).

It did work, but after being drug thru all that tube, the reading of the
thin red liquid was problematic (even more so than I find with the OEM
one). During the last engine change I reverted to the short dipstick.
Since I've gotta go inside and start the engine anyway, I might as well
just raise the engine hatch cover. I suspect that choice might be
different if my cover wasn't hinged, tho'.

Ken H.

On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 1:26 AM Adolph Santorine via Gmclist <

> Did anyone make on that came out the front?
>
> Is it still available?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dolph Santorine
>

 

[Jim Hupy]

My advice is to keep the short (more accurate) straight dipstick. You
really, really need to open that hatch cover often to check for rodent
nests, fuel leaks, worn belts, leaking hoses, cracked vacuum lines, wire
harness chafing, etc. as well as checking fluid levels.
Jim Hupy

On Mon, Jun 24, 2019, 4:39 AM Ken Henderson via Gmclist <

> Dolph,
>
> I made one 15+ years ago by brazing a 3/8" tube stub into the original
> where the lowest bend is in the OEM tube. A longer tube attached with a
> coupler (like the engine dipstick) led to the area beside the engine
> dipstick. A dipstick made from 1/8" steel cable (like the one for my
> engine) served better than a flat one (which wouldn't follow any
> inadvertent complex bend in the tube).
>
> It did work, but after being drug thru all that tube, the reading of the
> thin red liquid was problematic (even more so than I find with the OEM
> one). During the last engine change I reverted to the short dipstick.
> Since I've gotta go inside and start the engine anyway, I might as well
> just raise the engine hatch cover. I suspect that choice might be
> different if my cover wasn't hinged, tho'.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 1:26 AM Adolph Santorine via Gmclist <

>
> > Did anyone make on that came out the front?
> >
> > Is it still available?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Dolph Santorine
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[jim kanomata1]

Yes, we sell the extended stick, but caution customers to lift the hatch
and do a visual inspection as there are lot of things under there that can
be going on that one need to check.
I generally will open the hatch after I fill up so that the engine temp
goes down a little.
Believe it or not , the side vent kits help dissipate the heat under there
lot more rapidly.

On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 7:34 AM James Hupy via Gmclist <

> My advice is to keep the short (more accurate) straight dipstick. You
> really, really need to open that hatch cover often to check for rodent
> nests, fuel leaks, worn belts, leaking hoses, cracked vacuum lines, wire
> harness chafing, etc. as well as checking fluid levels.
> Jim Hupy
>
> On Mon, Jun 24, 2019, 4:39 AM Ken Henderson via Gmclist <

>
> > Dolph,
> >
> > I made one 15+ years ago by brazing a 3/8" tube stub into the original
> > where the lowest bend is in the OEM tube. A longer tube attached with a
> > coupler (like the engine dipstick) led to the area beside the engine
> > dipstick. A dipstick made from 1/8" steel cable (like the one for my
> > engine) served better than a flat one (which wouldn't follow any
> > inadvertent complex bend in the tube).
> >
> > It did work, but after being drug thru all that tube, the reading of the
> > thin red liquid was problematic (even more so than I find with the OEM
> > one). During the last engine change I reverted to the short dipstick.
> > Since I've gotta go inside and start the engine anyway, I might as well
> > just raise the engine hatch cover. I suspect that choice might be
> > different if my cover wasn't hinged, tho'.
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
> > On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 1:26 AM Adolph Santorine via Gmclist <

> >
> > > Did anyone make on that came out the front?
> > >
> > > Is it still available?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Dolph Santorine
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

 

[adolph santorine]

All great points.

The solution for me is a hold up strap for the hatch, and staying with the OE Dipstick.

Thanks for the input.

Dolph Santorine

DE AD0LF

Wheeling, West Virginia

1977 ex-Palm Beach TZE167V100820
Howell EFI/EBL , Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission

>
> Yes, we sell the extended stick, but caution customers to lift the hatch
> and do a visual inspection as there are lot of things under there that can
> be going on that one need to check.
> I generally will open the hatch after I fill up so that the engine temp
> goes down a little.
> Believe it or not , the side vent kits help dissipate the heat under there
> lot more rapidly.
>
> On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 7:34 AM James Hupy via Gmclist <

>
>> My advice is to keep the short (more accurate) straight dipstick. You
>> really, really need to open that hatch cover often to check for rodent
>> nests, fuel leaks, worn belts, leaking hoses, cracked vacuum lines, wire
>> harness chafing, etc. as well as checking fluid levels.
>> Jim Hupy
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 24, 2019, 4:39 AM Ken Henderson via Gmclist <

>>
>>> Dolph,
>>>
>>> I made one 15+ years ago by brazing a 3/8" tube stub into the original
>>> where the lowest bend is in the OEM tube. A longer tube attached with a
>>> coupler (like the engine dipstick) led to the area beside the engine
>>> dipstick. A dipstick made from 1/8" steel cable (like the one for my
>>> engine) served better than a flat one (which wouldn't follow any
>>> inadvertent complex bend in the tube).
>>>
>>> It did work, but after being drug thru all that tube, the reading of the
>>> thin red liquid was problematic (even more so than I find with the OEM
>>> one). During the last engine change I reverted to the short dipstick.
>>> Since I've gotta go inside and start the engine anyway, I might as well
>>> just raise the engine hatch cover. I suspect that choice might be
>>> different if my cover wasn't hinged, tho'.
>>>
>>> Ken H.
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 1:26 AM Adolph Santorine via Gmclist <

>>>
>>>> Did anyone make on that came out the front?
>>>>
>>>> Is it still available?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks
>>>>
>>>> Dolph Santorine
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> jimk
> http://www.appliedgmc.com
> 1-800-752-7502
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[jim kanomata1]

The real advantage I have experienced is if I need to add fluid, it can be
done from the outside and avoid dripping fluid around the inside.

On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 7:55 AM Adolph Santorine via Gmclist <

> All great points.
>
> The solution for me is a hold up strap for the hatch, and staying with the
> OE Dipstick.
>
> Thanks for the input.
>
> Dolph Santorine
>
> DE AD0LF
>
> Wheeling, West Virginia
>
> 1977 ex-Palm Beach TZE167V100820
> Howell EFI/EBL , Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission
>
>
> > On Jun 24, 2019, at 10:46 AM, Jim Kanomata via Gmclist <

> >
> > Yes, we sell the extended stick, but caution customers to lift the hatch
> > and do a visual inspection as there are lot of things under there that
> can
> > be going on that one need to check.
> > I generally will open the hatch after I fill up so that the engine temp
> > goes down a little.
> > Believe it or not , the side vent kits help dissipate the heat under
> there
> > lot more rapidly.
> >
> > On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 7:34 AM James Hupy via Gmclist <

> >
> >> My advice is to keep the short (more accurate) straight dipstick. You
> >> really, really need to open that hatch cover often to check for rodent
> >> nests, fuel leaks, worn belts, leaking hoses, cracked vacuum lines,
> wire
> >> harness chafing, etc. as well as checking fluid levels.
> >> Jim Hupy
> >>
> >> On Mon, Jun 24, 2019, 4:39 AM Ken Henderson via Gmclist <

> >>
> >>> Dolph,
> >>>
> >>> I made one 15+ years ago by brazing a 3/8" tube stub into the original
> >>> where the lowest bend is in the OEM tube. A longer tube attached with
> a
> >>> coupler (like the engine dipstick) led to the area beside the engine
> >>> dipstick. A dipstick made from 1/8" steel cable (like the one for my
> >>> engine) served better than a flat one (which wouldn't follow any
> >>> inadvertent complex bend in the tube).
> >>>
> >>> It did work, but after being drug thru all that tube, the reading of
> the
> >>> thin red liquid was problematic (even more so than I find with the OEM
> >>> one). During the last engine change I reverted to the short dipstick.
> >>> Since I've gotta go inside and start the engine anyway, I might as well
> >>> just raise the engine hatch cover. I suspect that choice might be
> >>> different if my cover wasn't hinged, tho'.
> >>>
> >>> Ken H.
> >>>
> >>> On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 1:26 AM Adolph Santorine via Gmclist <

> >>>
> >>>> Did anyone make on that came out the front?
> >>>>
> >>>> Is it still available?
> >>>>
> >>>> Thanks
> >>>>
> >>>> Dolph Santorine
> >>>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> GMCnet mailing list
> >>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> > Jim Kanomata
> > Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> > jimk
> > http://www.appliedgmc.com
> > 1-800-752-7502
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

 

[Ken B]

The only time I ever got involved with one of those it was a bad experience. I was transporting a coach across country and every time I stopped for
fuel I checked the trans fluid level. It would take 1 quart of fluid to bring it back to full again every 300 miles or so. It was leaking fluid
badly and all I wanted to do was to get the coach somewhere where the trans could be looked at and the leak source determined and fixed.

I finally called Manny for ideas and his response was "you have probably too much fluid in it". So he said to pull the modulator and see what I had.
I found an unused parking lot at some abandoned store in a little town that I do not remember the name of and pulled the coach front wheels up on a
curb so I could easily get under it. I ran the engine to fill up the converter, shut it off, and immediately pulled the modulator.
Fluid cam flying out of the hole all over me and made a puddle larger than 8 feet in diameter. Now I had a problem. In order to reinstall the
modulator I had to lay in that puddle that was wider that the width of the coach.

I decided to move the coach without the modulator installed to a dry spot elsewhere in the lot. Then I managed to reinstall the modulator after
adding about 1/2 quart to bring it up to level. I rechecked the level on the stick and it read nothing. So I drove it about 300 miles and pulled the
modulator again. The level was fine. I stopped by a farm store and bought a length of small diameter stainless cable and made my own dipstick. I
calibrated it and used it for checking during the rest of the drive. I did not drive with the temporary dipstick cable installed. I drove it another
1700 miles or so and it never leaked a drop.

The end result is the stick was way out of calibration. The tube looked fine and like it was installed OK. I was way over filling it causing the
fluid leak. I delivered the coach that way and never found out who made the remote stick or why it was so badly out of calibration.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[Jim Hupy]

I have similar experience with both the remote engine oil dipstick and the
remote transmission dipstick. And not just on the GMC motorhome. A lot of
it with LOKAR dipsticks for custom cars and hot rods. Calibration is the
key to it.
Try it with dry sump oil systems with remote reservoirs as used on
dune buggies and off road trucks. A real nightmare. Guess wrong and you
ruin some really expensive hardware. No perfect method that works in all
situations, at least for me.
Jim Hupy

On Tue, Jun 25, 2019, 1:42 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <

> The only time I ever got involved with one of those it was a bad
> experience. I was transporting a coach across country and every time I
> stopped for
> fuel I checked the trans fluid level. It would take 1 quart of fluid to
> bring it back to full again every 300 miles or so. It was leaking fluid
> badly and all I wanted to do was to get the coach somewhere where the
> trans could be looked at and the leak source determined and fixed.
>
> I finally called Manny for ideas and his response was "you have probably
> too much fluid in it". So he said to pull the modulator and see what I
> had.
> I found an unused parking lot at some abandoned store in a little town
> that I do not remember the name of and pulled the coach front wheels up on a
> curb so I could easily get under it. I ran the engine to fill up the
> converter, shut it off, and immediately pulled the modulator.
> Fluid cam flying out of the hole all over me and made a puddle larger than
> 8 feet in diameter. Now I had a problem. In order to reinstall the
> modulator I had to lay in that puddle that was wider that the width of the
> coach.
>
> I decided to move the coach without the modulator installed to a dry spot
> elsewhere in the lot. Then I managed to reinstall the modulator after
> adding about 1/2 quart to bring it up to level. I rechecked the level on
> the stick and it read nothing. So I drove it about 300 miles and pulled the
> modulator again. The level was fine. I stopped by a farm store and
> bought a length of small diameter stainless cable and made my own
> dipstick. I
> calibrated it and used it for checking during the rest of the drive. I
> did not drive with the temporary dipstick cable installed. I drove it
> another
> 1700 miles or so and it never leaked a drop.
>
> The end result is the stick was way out of calibration. The tube looked
> fine and like it was installed OK. I was way over filling it causing the
> fluid leak. I delivered the coach that way and never found out who made
> the remote stick or why it was so badly out of calibration.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>