Torsion Bar adjustment

Nice.

Did you block the rear when adjusting the front? Did the front height change after being driven?

I really should do mine - but...

Rob
Victoria, BC
76 Royale - Rear Twins/Dry Bath

>
> Ok, today was the day I brought the coach down from the clouds. She's at about 13" now, both sides equal.
>
> Larry
> --
> Larry - Victoria BC -
>
> 1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system,
> operational Onan genset, R134A A/C, New fuel lines
 
This is what I did Rob.

I happened to [temporarily] have 2 bogey hooks and two bottle jacks, so after setting the rear height with the airbags, I brought the bottle jacks up
snug then lowered the rear so it settled on the jacks.

Moving to the front, set the clamp on the pork chop and took the weight off the adjuster. As she was sitting at about 1-3/4" high on the drivers side,
I undid the adjuster about 11 or 12 turns. We couldn't find a wrench to fit the driver's side adjuster until we went to the metric rack - someone had
used a metric bolt in the past - typical of what I find here and there on my coach. Very haywire PO.

Anyway, the passenger side bolt looked brand new and was 3/4" as it should be. As soon as the pressure was relieved I could turn the adjuster by hand
and I gave it about 10 turns.

Removed the tool and lowered her down, she was still slightly (fat 1/8") over spec, but after taking her for a spin with some heavy braking, she
settled out at just under 13", maybe 3/16" so just about on spec, plus both sides were equal.

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system,
operational Onan genset, R134A A/C, New fuel lines
 
Thanks for the details!

It sounds like you’re now the local expert! How long do you have the tool for?!?

Rob
Victoria, BC
76 Royale - Rear Twins/Dry Bath

>
> This is what I did Rob.
>
> I happened to [temporarily] have 2 bogey hooks and two bottle jacks, so after setting the rear height with the airbags, I brought the bottle jacks up
> snug then lowered the rear so it settled on the jacks.
>
> Moving to the front, set the clamp on the pork chop and took the weight off the adjuster. As she was sitting at about 1-3/4" high on the drivers side,
> I undid the adjuster about 11 or 12 turns. We couldn't find a wrench to fit the driver's side adjuster until we went to the metric rack - someone had
> used a metric bolt in the past - typical of what I find here and there on my coach. Very haywire PO.
>
> Anyway, the passenger side bolt looked brand new and was 3/4" as it should be. As soon as the pressure was relieved I could turn the adjuster by hand
> and I gave it about 10 turns.
>
> Removed the tool and lowered her down, she was still slightly (fat 1/8") over spec, but after taking her for a spin with some heavy braking, she
> settled out at just under 13", maybe 3/16" so just about on spec, plus both sides were equal.
>
> Larry
> --
> Larry - Victoria BC -
>
> 1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system,
> operational Onan genset, R134A A/C, New fuel lines
 
Well I have to return it at some point of course, you say your coach is low, what is the front height ATM?
If you want to use the clamp, when do you plan on doing the adjustment?

BTW, from all the advice I received on doing the job, one of the most important things to do when you get set up is to make sure the air bags are out
of the picture ... -they'll try to compensate/interfere with the torsion bar adjustment.
So you have to check tire pressures, block the rear at spec frame height then deflate the bags so the bogies sit on the blocking.

A length of pipe may be helpful as the tool takes quite a bit of armstrong to set/release. It isn't the factory tool either but an extremely rigid and
reinforced C-clamp affair. It was made by Gordon Sekora - I spoke to a few guys who had their coaches set up by him when he was active.

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system,
operational Onan genset, R134A A/C, New fuel lines
 
Larry,
Were you unloading the pork chops with the front end raised or sitting on the ground?

Bill
--
Bill Van Vlack
'76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid
November 2015.
 
Yes - regarding the rear height: that's why I was asking if you blocked
the back when performing the adjustment to the front.

Mine is about 3/4" low (IIRC - Bill Van Vlack measured it when we had it
on Dave Order's hoist!). LOTS going on that day - so it become a
"something else to think about" measurement.

I'm heading up island Wednesday - so I'm obviously not touching it
before then!

Since it runs down the road rather well and other things have been
higher priorities, I've not really worried too much about it. Plus, I'm
more of a "if it's not broke" kind of person...

I may just buy a tool - either from Amazon.ca or when I'm in the USA
again... I *am* a "buy a tool, if you need it" guy however! I should
have asked Gordon if he had a spare tool to sell back when I was seeing
him regularly...

Thanks!

Rob
Victoria, BC
76 Royale - Rear Twins/Dry Bath

> Well I have to return it at some point of course, you say your coach is low, what is the front height ATM?
> If you want to use the clamp, when do you plan on doing the adjustment?
>
> BTW, from all the advice I received on doing the job, one of the most important things to do when you get set up is to make sure the air bags are out
> of the picture ... -they'll try to compensate/interfere with the torsion bar adjustment.
> So you have to check tire pressures, block the rear at spec frame height then deflate the bags so the bogies sit on the blocking.
>
> A length of pipe may be helpful as the tool takes quite a bit of armstrong to set/release. It isn't the factory tool either but an extremely rigid and
> reinforced C-clamp affair. It was made by Gordon Sekora - I spoke to a few guys who had their coaches set up by him when he was active.
>
> Larry
 
> This is what I did Rob.
>
> I happened to [temporarily] have 2 bogey hooks and two bottle jacks, so after setting the rear height with the airbags, I brought the bottle jacks
> up snug then lowered the rear so it settled on the jacks.
>
> Moving to the front, set the clamp on the pork chop and took the weight off the adjuster. As she was sitting at about 1-3/4" high on the drivers
> side, I undid the adjuster about 11 or 12 turns. We couldn't find a wrench to fit the driver's side adjuster until we went to the metric rack -
> someone had used a metric bolt in the past - typical of what I find here and there on my coach. Very haywire PO.
>
> Anyway, the passenger side bolt looked brand new and was 3/4" as it should be. As soon as the pressure was relieved I could turn the adjuster by
> hand and I gave it about 10 turns.
>
> Removed the tool and lowered her down, she was still slightly (fat 1/8") over spec, but after taking her for a spin with some heavy braking, she
> settled out at just under 13", maybe 3/16" so just about on spec, plus both sides were equal.
>
> Larry

At least your PO didn't use red Locktite on your adjusters like mine did on my GMC over 23 years ago. Besides that the ride height adjustment was
done incorrectly. One of many reason why my GMC has been hard to drive since I've owned it.
--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Roller Cam 455, TBI+EBL, 3.42 FD, 4 Bag, Macerator, Lenzi (brakes, vacuum system, front end stuff), Manny Tranny, vacuum step, Tankless + OEM water
heaters.
 
> Larry,
> Were you unloading the pork chops with the tires raised or sitting on the ground?
>
> Bill

We jacked up the front enough to get the tires off the ground using an air jack - funny story though, the jack was a tight fit when we raised her and
of course when we lowered her again we couldn't get the jack out! ...DUH!@!

Floor jack and a 6x6 to the rescue, couple of pumps and the first jack come out. :lol:

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system,
operational Onan genset, R134A A/C, New fuel lines
 
> Yes - regarding the rear height: that's why I was asking if you blocked
> the back when performing the adjustment to the front.
>
> Mine is about 3/4" low (IIRC - Bill Van Vlack measured it when we had it
> on Dave Order's hoist!). LOTS going on that day - so it become a
> "something else to think about" measurement.
>
> I'm heading up island Wednesday - so I'm obviously not touching it
> before then!
>
> Since it runs down the road rather well and other things have been
> higher priorities, I've not really worried too much about it. Plus, I'm
> more of a "if it's not broke" kind of person...
>
> I may just buy a tool - either from Amazon.ca or when I'm in the USA
> again... I *am* a "buy a tool, if you need it" guy however! I should
> have asked Gordon if he had a spare tool to sell back when I was seeing
> him regularly...
>
> Thanks!
>
> Rob
> Victoria, BC
> 76 Royale - Rear Twins/Dry Bath

Well as I understand it Rob and as Sully said, if the rear is lowered slightly from spec to retain the proportional difference between the front and
back, the caster will be correct.
Yes well buying a tool is certainly an option but you'll need a pretty strong breaker bar on the nut if you go with the c-clamp type - Gordon's tool
was modified so no nut but a swivel bar about 6" long - even so, as I said earlier, a pipe will be helpful unless you spend all day in the gym doing
weights.

BTW, when I spoke to Gordon he had no GMC stuff left, he'd given everything away.

have a good trip

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system,
operational Onan genset, R134A A/C, New fuel lines
 
> > We couldn't find a wrench to fit the driver's side adjuster until we went to the metric rack - someone had used a metric bolt in the past -
> > typical of what I find here and there on my coach. Very haywire PO.
> > Larry
>
> At least your PO didn't use red Locktite on your adjusters like mine did on my GMC over 23 years ago. Besides that the ride height adjustment was
> done incorrectly. One of many reason why my GMC has been hard to drive since I've owned it.

Yes Richard PO's can do remarkable things. Thirty staples to keep a loose bit if Formica in place is one example of mine, plus a bolt clear through
the roof to hold up a curtain rail behind the driver's seat. Grim.

Larry

--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system,
operational Onan genset, R134A A/C, New fuel lines
 
Thanks - no worries here, I have a 48" breaker bar!

I'll have to read more when I'm closer to dealing with it - "the rear is lowered slightly from the spec"? Or "the rear spec is lower than the front"? GMC's at the correct height tend to squat a bit, at the back - when the height is correct.

Yeah - I heard that everything Gordon had was gone. I don't think I've seen him since December 2018?

Rob
76 Royale Twin Beds, Dry Bath
Victoria, BC

>
> Well as I understand it Rob and as Sully said, if the rear is lowered slightly from spec to retain the proportional difference between the front and
> back, the caster will be correct.
> Yes well buying a tool is certainly an option but you'll need a pretty strong breaker bar on the nut if you go with the c-clamp type - Gordon's tool
> was modified so no nut but a swivel bar about 6" long - even so, as I said earlier, a pipe will be helpful unless you spend all day in the gym doing
> weights.
>
> BTW, when I spoke to Gordon he had no GMC stuff left, he'd given everything away.
>
> have a good trip
>
> Larry
> --
> Larry - Victoria BC -
>
> 1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system,
> operational Onan genset, R134A A/C, New fuel lines
 
Rob - Just to clarify and repeating Sully's advice - the coach caster is correct when the rear slot height is set at approx 1-3/8" below the slot
height at the front. So if you're low in the front, you can drop the rear to compensate. Just don't try taking the ferry at low tide running like
that! :lol:

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system,
operational Onan genset, R134A A/C, New fuel lines
 
In the GMC Motorhome Maintance Manual X-7525A, ride height is spec'd at Front 13 1/8" +or- 1/4". Rear is spec'd at 11 11/16" +or- 1/4". Please note
the +or- 1/4". That is a 1/2" of play that you get to use. My coach came to me WAY out of spec and putting it in the factory spec significantly
improved the handling. But, as a newbie back in 2004, I spent and inordanite amount of time trying to get it right. Every time I came back from a ride
it was different. When I thought I had it exact, the next two rides found it off but within the 1/2" of play, and found no difference in handling on
minor adjustments. So, what I'm saying is don't get obsessed with this. Get it close and it will be fine. Just what I think.
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
After you've owned a GMC for a bit - you'll know to get the rear up
higher than normal when going up and down these ramps! *Especially* if
you have a hitch mounted scooter in the back!

Rob
Victoria, BC
76 Royale - Rear Twins/Dry Bath

> Rob - Just to clarify and repeating Sully's advice - the coach caster is correct when the rear slot height is set at approx 1-3/8" below the slot
> height at the front. So if you're low in the front, you can drop the rear to compensate. Just don't try taking the ferry at low tide running like
> that! :lol:
>
> Larry
 
I posted this about a year ago. This is my updated thoughts on the rear ride height specs.

My thoughts on the GMC ride height.

The GMC specified ride heights are set so the rear sits about an inch lower than the front. This is my take on why this is so.

I don't believe it has anything to do with getting more caster or the “proper caster setting” The distance from the front wheel to the rear
ride-height slots is 214.5” An inch change in the rear height only changes the front caster by 1/4 degree. This isn't up for debate, its simple
trigonomtric math.

Caster recommendations are all over the place, but most agree more caster the better up to about 4 degrees or so. So going from 2 degrees at level
ride height to 2.25 degrees at proper ride height isn’t going to magically make the caster perfect any more than setting the caster to 2.25 degrees
at level ride height. What about the guy with 2.25 degrees at level, his magically becomes perfect ride height at 2.5 degrees by lowering the rear?
What makes adding 1/4 degree of additional caster to any caster setting suddenly make that caster setting perfect??

My thoughts on the rear height specifications has to do with stability of the rear bogie arms. When the rear is set to the recommended ride height,
the rear axles (if I am allowed to call them axles), sit about an inch higher than the bogie pins. I'm thinking with the bogie pins sitting lower than
the wheel axles, the bogie arms are more directionally stable, like laying in a hammock. The bogie pins carry the rear weight of the coach. My senses
tell me that the rear suspension is more stable when the bogie pins are below the wheel axles.

When you raise the rear, the bogie pins become level or above the wheel axles. Once the bogie pins are close to level or above the wheel axles, the
bogie arms (especially the front arm) become directionally unstable which makes the rear of the coach squirrelly. The higher the bogie pins are above
the wheel axles, the more directionally unstable the bogie arms become (to a certain point).

If one was to mount the bogies lower on the frame (with the necessary frame work), you could raise the rear of the coach while maintaining the lower
bogie pin configuration and maintain the desired stability.

Just my farmboy mechanic way of seeing things.

Flame away if you must!

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
So for those that have used both the "U" and the "J" tool, which do you prefer? I have an old Kent Moore "U" tool, and while it does take some
effort, it does do the job even on my updated "Hubler" bars....
--
Mark S. '73 Painted Desert,
Manny 1 Ton Front End,
Howell Injection,
Leigh Harrison 4bag and Rear Brakes,
Fort Worth, TX
 
No flames in this message, Bruce. Only the facts, sir, just the facts.
The difference in ride height on the GMC motorhome has a very distinct
reason for it's existence. Appearance has absolutely NOTHING to do with
it. And alignment is always performed AFTER ride height has been correctly
set. So, camber, caster, and toe in/out, are not the reason, either.
The remaining consideration after the before mentioned specs, staring
you RIGHT IN THE EYE, WITHOUT BLINKING, is anti-dive. Weight transfer.
Unloading the rear/rear bogies to the point where they unload with the
pavement and skid the tires during moderate to heavy braking.
That's it, pure and simple and uncomplicated. Vehicles with tandem
rear tires are all subject to this. From 18 wheelers, dump trucks, and yes,
GMC motorhomes.
Heavily laden vehicles with high percentages of weight concentrated on
the front axle are ESPECIALLY affected, particularly with front wheel
drive.
Sound familiar yet? Again, simple math applies here. A triangle, with
level ground as the base (A). A 90° angle at the front spindle intersection
(B), then back towards the rear of the coach until it terminates with the
base (C). The difference in height, combined with the right angle at the
front spindle makes the front end less likely to "nose dive" and unload the
rear/rear tires.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

> I posted this about a year ago. This is my updated thoughts on the rear
> ride height specs.
>
> My thoughts on the GMC ride height.
>
> The GMC specified ride heights are set so the rear sits about an inch
> lower than the front. This is my take on why this is so.
>
> I don't believe it has anything to do with getting more caster or the
> “proper caster setting” The distance from the front wheel to the rear
> ride-height slots is 214.5” An inch change in the rear height only changes
> the front caster by 1/4 degree. This isn't up for debate, its simple
> trigonomtric math.
>
> Caster recommendations are all over the place, but most agree more caster
> the better up to about 4 degrees or so. So going from 2 degrees at level
> ride height to 2.25 degrees at proper ride height isn’t going to magically
> make the caster perfect any more than setting the caster to 2.25 degrees
> at level ride height. What about the guy with 2.25 degrees at level, his
> magically becomes perfect ride height at 2.5 degrees by lowering the rear?
> What makes adding 1/4 degree of additional caster to any caster setting
> suddenly make that caster setting perfect??
>
> My thoughts on the rear height specifications has to do with stability of
> the rear bogie arms. When the rear is set to the recommended ride height,
> the rear axles (if I am allowed to call them axles), sit about an inch
> higher than the bogie pins. I'm thinking with the bogie pins sitting lower
> than
> the wheel axles, the bogie arms are more directionally stable, like laying
> in a hammock. The bogie pins carry the rear weight of the coach. My senses
> tell me that the rear suspension is more stable when the bogie pins are
> below the wheel axles.
>
> When you raise the rear, the bogie pins become level or above the wheel
> axles. Once the bogie pins are close to level or above the wheel axles, the
> bogie arms (especially the front arm) become directionally unstable which
> makes the rear of the coach squirrelly. The higher the bogie pins are above
> the wheel axles, the more directionally unstable the bogie arms become (to
> a certain point).
>
> If one was to mount the bogies lower on the frame (with the necessary
> frame work), you could raise the rear of the coach while maintaining the
> lower
> bogie pin configuration and maintain the desired stability.
>
> Just my farmboy mechanic way of seeing things.
>
> Flame away if you must!
>
> --
> Bruce Hislop
> ON Canada
> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Mmmm... I got a strange feeling after reading that explanation... I think I
feel smarter : )

> No flames in this message, Bruce. Only the facts, sir, just the facts.
> The difference in ride height on the GMC motorhome has a very distinct
> reason for it's existence. Appearance has absolutely NOTHING to do with
> it. And alignment is always performed AFTER ride height has been correctly
> set. So, camber, caster, and toe in/out, are not the reason, either.
> The remaining consideration after the before mentioned specs, staring
> you RIGHT IN THE EYE, WITHOUT BLINKING, is anti-dive. Weight transfer.
> Unloading the rear/rear bogies to the point where they unload with the
> pavement and skid the tires during moderate to heavy braking.
> That's it, pure and simple and uncomplicated. Vehicles with tandem
> rear tires are all subject to this. From 18 wheelers, dump trucks, and yes,
> GMC motorhomes.
> Heavily laden vehicles with high percentages of weight concentrated on
> the front axle are ESPECIALLY affected, particularly with front wheel
> drive.
> Sound familiar yet? Again, simple math applies here. A triangle, with
> level ground as the base (A). A 90° angle at the front spindle intersection
> (B), then back towards the rear of the coach until it terminates with the
> base (C). The difference in height, combined with the right angle at the
> front spindle makes the front end less likely to "nose dive" and unload the
> rear/rear tires.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>

>
> > I posted this about a year ago. This is my updated thoughts on the rear
> > ride height specs.
> >
> > My thoughts on the GMC ride height.
> >
> > The GMC specified ride heights are set so the rear sits about an inch
> > lower than the front. This is my take on why this is so.
> >
> > I don't believe it has anything to do with getting more caster or the
> > “proper caster setting” The distance from the front wheel to the rear
> > ride-height slots is 214.5” An inch change in the rear height only
> changes
> > the front caster by 1/4 degree. This isn't up for debate, its simple
> > trigonomtric math.
> >
> > Caster recommendations are all over the place, but most agree more caster
> > the better up to about 4 degrees or so. So going from 2 degrees at level
> > ride height to 2.25 degrees at proper ride height isn’t going to
> magically
> > make the caster perfect any more than setting the caster to 2.25 degrees
> > at level ride height. What about the guy with 2.25 degrees at level, his
> > magically becomes perfect ride height at 2.5 degrees by lowering the
> rear?
> > What makes adding 1/4 degree of additional caster to any caster setting
> > suddenly make that caster setting perfect??
> >
> > My thoughts on the rear height specifications has to do with stability of
> > the rear bogie arms. When the rear is set to the recommended ride height,
> > the rear axles (if I am allowed to call them axles), sit about an inch
> > higher than the bogie pins. I'm thinking with the bogie pins sitting
> lower
> > than
> > the wheel axles, the bogie arms are more directionally stable, like
> laying
> > in a hammock. The bogie pins carry the rear weight of the coach. My
> senses
> > tell me that the rear suspension is more stable when the bogie pins are
> > below the wheel axles.
> >
> > When you raise the rear, the bogie pins become level or above the wheel
> > axles. Once the bogie pins are close to level or above the wheel axles,
> the
> > bogie arms (especially the front arm) become directionally unstable which
> > makes the rear of the coach squirrelly. The higher the bogie pins are
> above
> > the wheel axles, the more directionally unstable the bogie arms become
> (to
> > a certain point).
> >
> > If one was to mount the bogies lower on the frame (with the necessary
> > frame work), you could raise the rear of the coach while maintaining the
> > lower
> > bogie pin configuration and maintain the desired stability.
> >
> > Just my farmboy mechanic way of seeing things.
> >
> > Flame away if you must!
> >
> > --
> > Bruce Hislop
> > ON Canada
> > 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
> > http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> > My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Bruce,
What you propose on rear ride height makes some sense to me. All I know for sure is if I raise the rear and forget to drop in back to normal, I sure
can tell the difference in handling. Especially at highway speeds. I do not know if I buy the weight transfer idea or not having not experienced the
braking problem. Also I usually travel with a full fresh water tank and a 450 pound motorcycle on the trailer hitch. So the added weight could be
masking the braking issue. I do not know.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Jim, I'm more confused about your anti-dive explanation than when you described it last year with different points of reference. So I did some
googling and found a video on YouTube by a guy who explains every automotive called Engineering Explained. His explanation of anti-dive makes sense,
but it has to do with the angle between the upper and lower control arms and the vehicle center of gravity.

Here is a link to the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAbHbGgFWJs

I don't see the correlation between your anti-dive triangle and the unloading of the rear-rear wheels during braking. I'm sure there is some weight
transfer from the rear to the front wheels. I do clearly see the braking torque of the center rear wheel applied to the bogie arm causing lift and a
weight transfer off the rear-rear wheels and onto the center rear wheel. This effect has be corrected by the Reaction Arm braking systems for the
rear wheels.

As a farmboy I've noted machinery such as cultivators and disks were more stable with the weight slung below the implement wheel axle height than when
raised above.

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that