Mike:
I don't believe it is the last "mechanics" fault. There is a certain =
amount
of rust buildup in between time that tends to give the feeling that the =
nut
is "welded" in place. So it is by nature hard to back off. I =
experienced
the same problem while doing mine. I used a four foot piece of pipe =
over
the end of a flex-head socket wrench and put a bend in it while jumping =
up
and down on it (I weigh ~ 240 lbs) to get it to brake.
Perhaps you'll need to use a =BE" drive socket wrench or "big" air =
wrench to
break yours.
Paul Bartz
From: gmcmail [mailto:gmcmail]
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 1999 5:11 PM
Just snapped my 'breaker' bar using a 'cheater'
bar to try to get the 1 1/2 nut off. Sure would like to get my hands=20
on the guy who last cranked those things on
> Mike=20
> I just did mine - I did not remove the tie rod end. I did remove the
> shock & it made things much easier. I put a floor jack under the =
lower
> control arm (after supporting the GMC on jack stand) and moved it so =
it
> was parallel with the ground. I moved the inter toward the front not
> toward the back as the manual suggests. The torque on the axle nut =
is I
> believe 160 then move to the next cotter pin hole. Check the manual =
if
> one is available.
>=20
> Eric Tipton=09
> GMCers
> Two quick questions:
> 1) Can I remove the right(pass) drive shaft by only
> taking off the tie=20
> rod end?
> 2) What torque for the 1 1/2 axel nut?
>=20
> Gotta change a bad boot !!
