To tarp or not to tarp....that is the question

[6cuda6]

Well the first winter of the year is appon us here and i have a storage question.

Does one tarp the roof or leave it bare if storing outside for the snow season?

Coming from the vintage car world there has been pros and con about doing it.....mainly paint and mold damage....what say thee in the world here of
GMC rv's?
--
Rich Mondor,

Brockville, ON

77 Hughes 2600

 

[mghamms]

I just leave mine out. No tarp or anything.
--
1977 Kingsley 455 as stock as it gets except lots of Ragusa parts

 

[Jim Hupy]

If you insist upon tarping, a few things come to mind. One, humidity. Two,
Cold. Three access to the inside of the coach.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Sun, Nov 10, 2019, 8:31 AM Mike Hamm via Gmclist
wrote:

> I just leave mine out. No tarp or anything.
> --
> 1977 Kingsley 455 as stock as it gets except lots of Ragusa parts
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>

 

[6cuda6]

I prefer not to tarp it as ive seen to many cars ruined but i see tons of RV's and trailers tarped/covered so i figured id ask the experienced here
for your wisdom being that im new to all things RV.....lol.
--
Rich Mondor,

Brockville, ON

77 Hughes 2600

 

[Deb]

I have the same question. Past 2 winters I have not covered it. But my neighbour is giving me some grief over that. I have only 2 options - tarp or
not. Fellow across the road has done a modified tarp - just folded the tarp up to the dimensions of the roof of his trailer and strapped it in place.
Allows for some breathing via the windows I suppose, but keeps the snow and UV off of the roof.

I have heard folks talking about the evils of UV on the paint and the plastics, but I figure since they are exposed during travel (for some of us, not
me unfortunately) for a good 50-100% of the summer months, how much damage can I expect from it during the winter, when the sun is lower and UV index
is so much less. My biggest question would be the effect of the snow & cold directly on the seams and vent & a/c covers. Would I be better to just
cover the a/c shrouds and let the rest go?

I am concerned about condensation & mold/mildew inside being covered with a waterproof, non-breathable sheet of plastic. I am working on trying to
use some collapsible tent poles to create a low dome to elevate the tarp from the roof surface to allow for air movement, but then I have the problem
of wind potentially whipping the thing around, off and down the block!
Just like you, Rich. Looking for advice.
--
Deb McWade
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
"Li'l Sister"
'77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!

 

[powwerjon]

To All:
We bought our first coach in Aug of 1998 and the first winter we covered it
with a 20 X 40 silver tarp. Got some of the very large inflatable donuts
or you can also use a truck inner tube also. Got several to provide an
airspace between the top and the tarp. Brought the sides out at an angle
and staked them to the ground. Still allow me access to the coach.

The following summer I built this RV cover out of (2) 10 X 20 tent
setups. Used the parts to make a 10 X 30 RV cozy to protect it from the
sun and rain. In the winter months I attached side, back and front made
out of the original 20 X 40 tarp. I added length to the legs by using 1
1/4" electrical conduit. Look at the pictures and ask questions if you
need. This lasted from 1999 to 2004 when we move to our present location.
Also had a 30A power plug, sewer dump and water at the coach location.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3851-rv-cover.html

I am a firm believer on not leaving the coach exposed to the weather both
summer and winter.

Comments?

J.R. Wright
GMC Great Laker
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States
GMCMHI
TZE Zone Restorations
78 Buskirk Custom 29.5' Stretch
75 Avion (Under going Frame up Restoration)

On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 12:20 PM Deb McWade via Gmclist <

> I have the same question. Past 2 winters I have not covered it. But my
> neighbour is giving me some grief over that. I have only 2 options - tarp
> or
> not. Fellow across the road has done a modified tarp - just folded the
> tarp up to the dimensions of the roof of his trailer and strapped it in
> place.
> Allows for some breathing via the windows I suppose, but keeps the snow
> and UV off of the roof.
>
> I have heard folks talking about the evils of UV on the paint and the
> plastics, but I figure since they are exposed during travel (for some of
> us, not
> me unfortunately) for a good 50-100% of the summer months, how much damage
> can I expect from it during the winter, when the sun is lower and UV index
> is so much less. My biggest question would be the effect of the snow &
> cold directly on the seams and vent & a/c covers. Would I be better to just
> cover the a/c shrouds and let the rest go?
>
> I am concerned about condensation & mold/mildew inside being covered with
> a waterproof, non-breathable sheet of plastic. I am working on trying to
> use some collapsible tent poles to create a low dome to elevate the tarp
> from the roof surface to allow for air movement, but then I have the problem
> of wind potentially whipping the thing around, off and down the block!
> Just like you, Rich. Looking for advice.
> --
> Deb McWade
> Logan Lake, BC, CAN
> "Li'l Sister"
> '77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
> TZE167V101404
> It's Bigger on the Inside!
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[Deb]

That looks very nice! Unfortunately, my little municipality has decided not to allow "portable garage" type structures beyond your front house line.
Since my coach is parked in my front yard, which I had levelled to create a reasonably flat parking area (my driveway is about a 8+ degree slope from
bottom to top end) I can't build anything with legs. I am forced to put something directly on the top. That is why I am looking at those tent poles.


But I like the idea of tubes! Soft and can support a good deal of tension/pressure from tie-downs. Thanks for that! I will look at that. Easier
than the tent pole idea, and will deflate easily for storage. I have a compressor, so can inflate them at will. I can use the tent poles to build a
shelter at the side of the house for the scooters - maybe give my garage back to the car!
--
Deb McWade
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
"Li'l Sister"
'77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
TZE167V101404
It's Bigger on the Inside!

 

[powwerjon]

Looks are deceiving, the front of the coach is 20' behind the front setback
in that location.

J.R. Wright
GMC Great Laker
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States
GMCMHI
TZE Zone Restorations
78 Buskirk Custom 29.5' Stretch
75 Avion (Under going Frame up Restoration)

On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 1:54 PM Deb McWade via Gmclist <

> That looks very nice! Unfortunately, my little municipality has decided
> not to allow "portable garage" type structures beyond your front house
> line.
> Since my coach is parked in my front yard, which I had levelled to create
> a reasonably flat parking area (my driveway is about a 8+ degree slope from
> bottom to top end) I can't build anything with legs. I am forced to put
> something directly on the top. That is why I am looking at those tent
> poles.
>
>
> But I like the idea of tubes! Soft and can support a good deal of
> tension/pressure from tie-downs. Thanks for that! I will look at that.
> Easier
> than the tent pole idea, and will deflate easily for storage. I have a
> compressor, so can inflate them at will. I can use the tent poles to build
> a
> shelter at the side of the house for the scooters - maybe give my garage
> back to the car!
> --
> Deb McWade
> Logan Lake, BC, CAN
> "Li'l Sister"
> '77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
> TZE167V101404
> It's Bigger on the Inside!
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[Matt Colie]

The reason owners of box on a truck SOBs have to tarp them is because they have flat roofs with sharp edges. When the window caulk gives out, the
coach is toast. A GMC roof is one sheet of aluminum with two rounded SMC ends. Have you ever seen water collected on a GMC roof?

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[mike kilroy]

You missed one issue:  RACCOONS...

Our 1973, bought new, never had much issue stored outside uncovered for
20 years, other than finally small leaks around back rounded outside
corners - easy to repair once reconditioning began in 2000...

So we were real smart - decided to put on a full motorhome cover to
protect it one year...  Nice cover - but the raccoons liked it even
more.   About a dozen families moved in under that fine cover. Guess the
rear ladder was a piece of cake for them to climb up and down.  Come
spring we had about 5,000# of poop up there!  They tried to eat into the
plastic carrier.  Gave that cover away right quick we did!

> Well the first winter of the year is appon us here and i have a storage question.
>
> Does one tarp the roof or leave it bare if storing outside for the snow season?
>
> Coming from the vintage car world there has been pros and con about doing it.....mainly paint and mold damage....what say thee in the world here of
> GMC rv's?

--

 

[john r. lebetski]

Covers are bad enough outdoors with wind abrasion and interior humidity rise to dripping levels during temperature inversions. I bet tarps are worse
as far as abrasion. I would wash coach with a good carwash liquid Mothers California Gold is my preference due to low odor) and truck wash brush on
pole (saves the back), seal leaks, which you need to do anyway, then put a on coat of automotive wax or polish and park it no cover.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

 

[sgltrac]

Does anybody actually wax a whole gmc?

Sully
Bellevue wa

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 6:05 AM John R. Lebetski via Gmclist <

> Covers are bad enough outdoors with wind abrasion and interior humidity
> rise to dripping levels during temperature inversions. I bet tarps are worse
> as far as abrasion. I would wash coach with a good carwash liquid Mothers
> California Gold is my preference due to low odor) and truck wash brush on
> pole (saves the back), seal leaks, which you need to do anyway, then put
> a on coat of automotive wax or polish and park it no cover.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[LarryW]

> Covers are bad enough outdoors with wind abrasion and interior humidity rise to dripping levels during temperature inversions. I bet tarps are
> worse as far as abrasion. I would wash coach with a good carwash liquid (Mothers California Gold wash and wax s my preference due to low odor) and
> truck wash brush on pole (saves the back), seal leaks, which you need to do anyway, then put a on coat of automotive wax or polish and park it no
> cover. If it's stored on your property you can open roof vent on sunny days to let moisture out.

I'm with Jonh on this. I do not have inside storage for my coach, so, a good wash and wax in the fall. The only time I covered my coach w as when I
had it stored in a pole barn. Covered it because of all of the birds that flew in and $hit on everything. Since I have stored outside, I don't cover
because wind will flap the cover around and rub on the paint. The other things I do is park it on pieces of 2 X 8 X 18 pieces of lumber to keep it
from sinking into the ground. Also raise the rear as high as it will go to allow good air circulation under the coach. In addition, once a year,
usually in the spring of the year, I put the coach up on ramps. Then spread cardboard strips along the underside of the frame rails. Then using a
squirt can, squirt used ATF on the rear part of the frame around the boggies where the frame is doubled up. Keeps moisture out, and eliminates rusting
of the frame in this vulnerable area. JWID
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

 

[Irish Rogue]

Sully:
Sounds like a big job to me - especially w/ a 28’ and then our 26’ to boot. Guess I need to think about it a bit. Maybe a looonng bit!
Mike/The Corvair a holic

Sent from my iPhone

>
> Covers are bad enough outdoors with wind abrasion and interior humidity rise to dripping levels during temperature inversions. I bet tarps are worse
> as far as abrasion. I would wash coach with a good carwash liquid Mothers California Gold is my preference due to low odor) and truck wash brush on
> pole (saves the back), seal leaks, which you need to do anyway, then put a on coat of automotive wax or polish and park it no cover.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[Irish Rogue]

Thanks Larry:
Gr8 tips for storage and maintenance.
Mike/The Corvair a holic

Sent from my iPhone

>

>> Covers are bad enough outdoors with wind abrasion and interior humidity rise to dripping levels during temperature inversions. I bet tarps are
>> worse as far as abrasion. I would wash coach with a good carwash liquid (Mothers California Gold wash and wax s my preference due to low odor) and
>> truck wash brush on pole (saves the back), seal leaks, which you need to do anyway, then put a on coat of automotive wax or polish and park it no
>> cover. If it's stored on your property you can open roof vent on sunny days to let moisture out.
>
> I'm with Jonh on this. I do not have inside storage for my coach, so, a good wash and wax in the fall. The only time I covered my coach w as when I
> had it stored in a pole barn. Covered it because of all of the birds that flew in and $hit on everything. Since I have stored outside, I don't cover
> because wind will flap the cover around and rub on the paint. The other things I do is park it on pieces of 2 X 8 X 18 pieces of lumber to keep it
> from sinking into the ground. Also raise the rear as high as it will go to allow good air circulation under the coach. In addition, once a year,
> usually in the spring of the year, I put the coach up on ramps. Then spread cardboard strips along the underside of the frame rails. Then using a
> squirt can, squirt used ATF on the rear part of the frame around the boggies where the frame is doubled up. Keeps moisture out, and eliminates rusting
> of the frame in this vulnerable area. JWID
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[john r. lebetski]

I've "waxed" a couple of them. Actually buffed out with a Milwaukee angle polisher. First one I used Mcguires cleaner wax. Had enough cut to get
the chalk removed and wax at same time Did not want to do 2 full processes. The roof is hands and knees but you do only one section at a time.
Sides have so much glass that there is less to do than you think. Normally you would have to be very careful not to burn paint with an angle rotary
polisher, but it's tough to hurt Imron. Second one I used modern Zaino All -in-one. Results about same even with heavy oxidation. Going forward I
just use wash and wax and occasionally detail spray. Especially helps on leading surfaces to make bug removal a little easier. The Croftgate Quick n
Slick is my choice as less noxious than any other product I have tried. A lady here is a dealer so I order direct or pickup at the bigger car shows
where she is set up.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

 

[Irish Rogue]

Thanks John L.:
Good info - thanks for sharing!!!
Mike/The Corvair a holic

Sent from my iPhone

>
> I've "waxed" a couple of them. Actually buffed out with a Milwaukee angle polisher. First one I used Mcguires cleaner wax. Had enough cut to get
> the chalk removed and wax at same time Did not want to do 2 full processes. The roof is hands and knees but you do only one section at a time.
> Sides have so much glass that there is less to do than you think. Normally you would have to be very careful not to burn paint with an angle rotary
> polisher, but it's tough to hurt Imron. Second one I used modern Zaino All -in-one. Results about same even with heavy oxidation. Going forward I
> just use wash and wax and occasionally detail spray. Especially helps on leading surfaces to make bug removal a little easier. The Croftgate Quick n
> Slick is my choice as less noxious than any other product I have tried. A lady here is a dealer so I order direct or pickup at the bigger car shows
> where she is set up.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[Ken B]

Tarpsng or even a custom fit cover is always a big risk. A neighbor about a 1//2mile down the street from me (I am rural) covered his big SOB about 3
winters ago. I stopped by as he was doing it. He was very meticulous in getting everything down tight with bungees and duck tape. A couple of
months later the wind came up caught and that huge cover and is was flapping in the the wind. What a mess. It destroyed the cover and did a lot of
paint damage too. He told me that his comprehensive insurance was going to cover it. I never checked to see if they did.

I like the idea of an awning or roof overhead even if the sides are open rather than a cover. Many fairgrounds allow undercover parking in the winter
because they are not using their buildings for other things. It is something to check out.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana