Timing chain & gears

jim bounds1

New member
May 18, 1998
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Frank,
I would suggest installing a double roller chain & gears. The standard
timing chain seems to stretch to a problem at 70K miles or so. A sloppy
chain will really effect the engines performance and create fantom problems
that will drive you crazy!

A double roller chain will solve all of that, and give you the opertunity
to direct your attention to the other 10,000 parts you are riding on.

Call me tomorrow and I'll give you the double roller chain part #, you can
pick it up locally.

Of course change the water pump and why not the fuel pump since you're in
the neighborhood.

Hope this helps,

Jim Bounds www.gmccoop.com / Orlando Florida
- -------------------------------------------

>Winter Project. I am going to replace timing chain and gears. Any advice
>as to make and supplier.
>
>Frank SW Indiana
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
 
I have the rubber seal and it is leaking. Check with folks like Ed
Osburn. He says the rope seal never leaks and these newer rubber ones
do. I am looking at $1,500 to 2,000 to r&r engine to fix the seal.

Walter Drew 78 Royale
 
Frank in my experience the best places to buy engine parts like this is at:

1. Summit Racing equipment at 1-800-230-3030. Call them and they will send
you their catalog, about 283 pages worth. The Cloyes double roller chain and
timing gears(considered the standard for durability) is part number
CLO-93113 for both the 403 and 455 engines. It costs $78.95

2. JEGS high performance at 1-800-345-4545. They also have a free catalog,
about 211 pages of good stuff. the Cloyes double roller chain and timing
gears are part # 220-9-3113 and also $78.99

Hope this helps you.

Tom

>Frank,
>I would suggest installing a double roller chain & gears. The standard
>timing chain seems to stretch to a problem at 70K miles or so. A sloppy
>chain will really effect the engines performance and create fantom problems
>that will drive you crazy!
>
>A double roller chain will solve all of that, and give you the opertunity
>to direct your attention to the other 10,000 parts you are riding on.
>
>Call me tomorrow and I'll give you the double roller chain part #, you can
>pick it up locally.
>
>Of course change the water pump and why not the fuel pump since you're in
>the neighborhood.
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>Jim Bounds www.gmccoop.com / Orlando Florida
>-------------------------------------------

>>Winter Project. I am going to replace timing chain and gears. Any advice
>>as to make and supplier.
>>
>>Frank SW Indiana
>>
>>______________________________________________________
>>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
Tom & Marg Warner
Vernon Center NY
1976 palmbeach
 
Greetings! Before you pull that engine to replace the seal. Have all the
tests run on it, compression etc. How many miles are on it. You may be
lucky and just have the engine rebuilt and freshened up new timing chain,
valve job, etc. How much is on the lower end? Maybe since it is not in
too bad of shape another few bucks will save you pulling it later down the
road womewhere inconvient. Chuck

> I have the rubber seal and it is leaking. Check with folks like Ed
> Osburn. He says the rope seal never leaks and these newer rubber ones
> do. I am looking at $1,500 to 2,000 to r&r engine to fix the seal.
>
> Walter Drew 78 Royale
 
Chuck, The bad news is that I bought the coach 8 weeks ago with only
1,000 miles on a rebuild from some place on the road in Arizona. The
receipt says rv cam and heavy duty oil pump. The engine is running very
strongly but I loose a quart every 300 miles.
Thanks, Walter 78 Royale
 
Walter.......Change the PVC valve. It could be as simple as that.
Jim Davis, 77 Coca Cola
Bandon, Oregon

- -----Original Message-----
From: Walter M. Drew [SMTP:wdrew]
Sent: Friday, November 20, 1998 9:19 AM
To: gmcmotorhome
Subject: Re: GMC: Timing chain & gears

Chuck, The bad news is that I bought the coach 8 weeks ago with only
1,000 miles on a rebuild from some place on the road in Arizona. The
receipt says rv cam and heavy duty oil pump. The engine is running very
strongly but I loose a quart every 300 miles.
Thanks, Walter 78 Royale
 
With only 1,000 miles on the engine. Quite possible the oil consumption
might be attribuited to break in. What oil are you using. I use Vavoline
20-50 and have only 500 on my new engine. My problem is that I had the carb
overhauled by the Carbuertor Shop in Los angles. When I went for a trip to
the Lake with the Elks I got 3 MPG. Tom is really upset. I will put on the
old carb and see what is what. The quadra jet that is on the GMC cost me
$500.00. That is no bargain either. The original one was from Gateway and
came with the new motor about 11 or 12 years ago. Hope things pick up for
us both. Chuck Will in Lopmpoc, 78 Eleganza II.

> Chuck, The bad news is that I bought the coach 8 weeks ago with only
> 1,000 miles on a rebuild from some place on the road in Arizona. The
> receipt says rv cam and heavy duty oil pump. The engine is running very
> strongly but I loose a quart every 300 miles.
> Thanks, Walter 78 Royale
 
Think throttle body injection... it might be a way to gain about 15 years of
technology. See Howell-efi.com... I like mine.
Al Chernoff

> With only 1,000 miles on the engine. Quite possible the oil consumption
> might be attribuited to break in. What oil are you using. I use Vavoline
> 20-50 and have only 500 on my new engine. My problem is that I had the carb
> overhauled by the Carbuertor Shop in Los angles. When I went for a trip to
> the Lake with the Elks I got 3 MPG. Tom is really upset. I will put on the
> old carb and see what is what. The quadra jet that is on the GMC cost me
> $500.00. That is no bargain either. The original one was from Gateway and
> came with the new motor about 11 or 12 years ago. Hope things pick up for
> us both. Chuck Will in Lopmpoc, 78 Eleganza II.
>

>
> > Chuck, The bad news is that I bought the coach 8 weeks ago with only
> > 1,000 miles on a rebuild from some place on the road in Arizona. The
> > receipt says rv cam and heavy duty oil pump. The engine is running very
> > strongly but I loose a quart every 300 miles.
> > Thanks, Walter 78 Royale
 
Tom,

I changed the timing chain & gears two years ago and the pan can stay
on so the trans & final drive don't have to come out. I think the reason the
manual states to remove the pan is to get a good seal where the front cover
and pan meet below the gears and chain. Very careful cleaning, some sealant
on the rubber seal between the front cover and pan, and where the rubber
seal meets the two sides of the pan gasket have resulted in no leaks so far.
The front motor mount had to be removed. That was not a problem. The front
of the engine was raised slightly with a jack and wooden blocks on hard
engine places - not the pan!

I found the front crank seal worn badly - through to the tighting
spring in the seal but not leaking with only 80,000 miles on at the time.

Al Hamilton
76 Eleganza II
Kingston, Ont
 
Tom,

I found out the details, and they are the same as Al's. The new timing
chain set may come with a gasket to seal the bottom without dropping the
pan. Some silicone probably would be a good idea too to ensure a good
seal. The balancer will need to come off, and you will need to remove the
fan shroud to get in there. The bolts need to come off the front motor
mount, so support the engine like Al says.

Hope this helps,

Zak

>Tom,
>
> I changed the timing chain & gears two years ago and the pan can stay
>on so the trans & final drive don't have to come out. I think the reason the
>manual states to remove the pan is to get a good seal where the front cover
>and pan meet below the gears and chain. Very careful cleaning, some sealant
>on the rubber seal between the front cover and pan, and where the rubber
>seal meets the two sides of the pan gasket have resulted in no leaks so far.
>The front motor mount had to be removed. That was not a problem. The front
>of the engine was raised slightly with a jack and wooden blocks on hard
>engine places - not the pan!
>
> I found the front crank seal worn badly - through to the tighting
>spring in the seal but not leaking with only 80,000 miles on at the time.
>
> Al Hamilton
> 76 Eleganza II
> Kingston, Ont
 
Thanks Al forgot that you had been there done that. I am planning on
putting a double roller cloyes chain and gears on mine. Have the new E
heads and will have them rebuilt shortly. Have been stockpiling parts since
the last rally we went to, and now have many boxes. Just received my new
generator door yesterday. part of mine self destructed when I blew the last
tire. Really looking forward to starting the work on the coach.

Have made all of the arrangements for the Turning Stone Casino Campground
for 21-23 May 1999. They gave me some terrific rates, use of the large
pavilion, free passes and discount dinner tickets to the casino and free
tickets to the Gold Cup Room at the club house at the race track. Will give
you more details next week when I get everything together.

Do you have any ideas for the technical seminar?

>Tom,
>
> I changed the timing chain & gears two years ago and the pan can stay
>on so the trans & final drive don't have to come out. I think the reason the
>manual states to remove the pan is to get a good seal where the front cover
>and pan meet below the gears and chain. Very careful cleaning, some sealant
>on the rubber seal between the front cover and pan, and where the rubber
>seal meets the two sides of the pan gasket have resulted in no leaks so far.
>The front motor mount had to be removed. That was not a problem. The front
>of the engine was raised slightly with a jack and wooden blocks on hard
>engine places - not the pan!
>
> I found the front crank seal worn badly - through to the tighting
>spring in the seal but not leaking with only 80,000 miles on at the time.
>
> Al Hamilton
> 76 Eleganza II
> Kingston, Ont
>
>
>
>
Tom & Marg Warner
Vernon Center NY
1976 palmbeach