Throttle cable

ritch hwang

New member
Jul 9, 1998
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Hi all - I'm a newbie, just bought a 76 Birchaven (Coachmen, side bath) a
few weeks ago and am in still in the process of replacing dubious parts
that are readily apparent. "Twitchy" handling in driving it home, will
look into that later, got a pair of KYB front shocks on order thanks to
this list.

Trying to get the unit trustworthy in time to register for the 25th GMC
anniversary rally in NC. While there *are* more newbie questions, this
one's got me stumped.

There is about an inch of slack in the throttle cable, preventing the
secondaries on the carb from ever opening. Ordered a new cable from
Gateway (which won't work without modification BTW, going to return it
hopefully), and lo and behold it was the same length as the old one!

I also need the 1/4 inch ID to 7/16 OD bushing at the carb for the throttle
cable.

Can't get the trans to kick down even with cable jury-rigged tight at
accelerator pedal, but secondaries *does* open now.

Bought a 455 oil cooler tube/line kit from JR Slaten and couldn't get the
tubes to fit due to interference with the exhaust manifod, so am trading it
for a 403 kit. (?)

Wipers come on unexpectedly. Yes I know they are hydraulic. Could this be
an over-pressure problem at the pump or just a worn valve?

Gads, who knows what other horrors await??

Any feedback most welcome!!
*

As always, best regards.

~ Ritch & Betty Hwang ~ mailto:rhwang
~ =^..^= Trinket ~ the shy Persian kitty
~ 76 GMC Birchaven ~ RVClub 00930 ICQ# 6408591
(B}>
 
I had the same problem with my "kick down" switch... It turns out that
the switch was bad. I dis-assembled the switch and was able to repair
it. Everythings OK now!

John '76 Palm Beach

> FWIW, earlier coaches (at least) had the kickdown switch mounted >under the dash where it was actuated by the upper (lever) end of the >accelerator pedal.
 
Ritch,
I had the same problem with my '73 GMC, several years ago. I did the
same thing that Rick posted, just clamp your big fist around the gas
pedal arm and pull up, not hard enough to rip it out of it's mounting,
just bend it upward and then check secondaries. Worked fine for me.

Jim Bolick
1973 GMC
Painted Desert
 
What well-reasoned and astute diagnoses!!

I guess I've been too distracted working on/worrying about other things to
really sit down and analyze the problems properly.

>> There is about an inch of slack in the throttle cable, preventing the
>>secondaries on the carb from ever opening..............................
>>Can't get the trans to kick down even with cable jury-rigged tight at
>>accelerator pedal,.....................

> According to the shop manual, "There is no adjustment....".
> The symptoms you describe suggest a bent pedal assembly, and in fact the
>only place you can "adjust" things is at the pedal pivot. FWIW, earlier
>coaches (at least) had the kickdown switch mounted under the dash where it
was
>actuated by the upper (lever) end of the accelerator pedal. Again, this
>suggests your pedal is bent, so pedal hits floor too soon. Just get in there
>and bend it back up.

>I had the same problem with my "kick down" switch... It turns out that
>the switch was bad. I dis-assembled the switch and was able to repair
>it. Everythings OK now!

I'll hop on out to perform the above as soon as I fix (& eat) my lunch :=)
Thanks for the excellent advice!



As always, best regards.

~ Ritch & Betty Hwang ~ mailto:rhwang
~ =^..^= Trinket ~ the shy Persian kitty
~ 76 GMC Birchaven ~ RVClub 00930 ICQ# 6408591
(B}>
 
Hi GMC-Netters

Removed the pedal assembly with the help of 2 vise grips & much mucking
about. Working alone, no helper. Back & forth, back & forth, etc

After *many* miscues both in bending the pedal linkage per Rick Staples ~
( ** good one, Rick** , makes ya wonder about the driveability of the coach
in it's previous life given it's limited travel ~ ( Guess I should be
comforted by the coach driven "gently" ???) ) ~ ,

As for the kickdown switch, the rough dimension from the cable insertion
slot on the throttle rod to the centerline of the pedal swivel centerline
is approximately 8 & 1/2 inches. Dunno if the switch works yet, but mech
wise everything is cool.





As always, best regards.

~ Ritch & Betty Hwang ~ mailto:rhwang
~ =^..^= Trinket ~ the shy Persian kitty
~ 76 GMC Birchaven ~ RVClub 00930 ICQ# 6408591
(B}>