Thnigs to do while tanks are dropped was: Electric FuelPump

hdavis

New member
Mar 13, 1998
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>
>> 2. cut access holes in the floor to allow me to R&R socks/senders in the
>> future without dropping tanks.
>
>I cant make up my mind on this one. I have had several vehicle for over
>100,000 miles and I have never drained a tank or fixed a sender. I could
>not get my drain plugs out of the tanks so I just told Renuzit folks to
>coat right over them. Watch the first tank of gas I get will be bad.

I decided that two stainless steel patches over the access holes was a
samll price to pay against the possibility of needing to drop 'em in the
most inoportune area (like when we're boondocking).


>> 4. replaced all hoses with marine grade fuel lines - resistant to gas
>> additives
>
>I did not use marine grade hoses but I did use the new SAE SPEC R7
>hoses which is the new spec for hoses that can take all of the new
>additives. I even used it for the vent lines.

Same here except used the marine stuff.

>
>> I still have a fuel filling problem - pumps shut off when I have about 35
>> gallons in them. I can continue by filling slowly.
>
>Henry you know that I am no pro when it comes to living with a GMC.
>I have only driven mine 88 miles so far. So the following is only theory.
>
>The Renuzit guy showed me the varnish he scraped off the top of my
>tanks. Real nasty! He ask me if it had sat for a long period of time. I
>told him I knew it had sat in the junk yard for at least 5 years because
>I had seen it there that long. I read somewhere that a fuel/vapor
>separator should rattle when shook. Mine did not. Shot it full of
>carb cleaner-----it makes noise now.

Good point. I think that I have a bad separator anyway - I get fuel vapor
smell after gassing up.

>
>I have seen articles that say you should drop the back end when
>fueling or twist it some other way. I do not agree. The main vent is
>in the center of the tank. With the other vents all over the place.
>I would think dead level would be best. Anything other than dead
>level will send fuel into some vent.

I've tried them all. No change.

>
>Last but not least. Someone here pointed out to me that it was real
>easy to pinch a hose when reinstalling the tanks. I shot the valley
>where the hoses run full of silicone then bedded the hoses down to
>the tank---full length. I cut the hoses about 6 inches longer than the
>tank and installed a brass hose barb. Remember this is all just
>theory.

Nice theory! Let us know how it works for you.

Henry

Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (831) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com
 
>In a message dated 7/11/99 9:50:49 PM Central Daylight Time,

>
>>
>> Nice theory! Let us know how it works for you.
>>
>> Henry
>>
>Henry
>
>You did not tell me why I need to replace the insulation!!!!!!

It's flammable, has voids (at least the 3-4 coaches that I looked at did),
doesn't work as well as current materials etc. You don't "have" to change
it. I decided that while I was in there I'd check things out. Where the
foam is crumbling I'm replacing it. I left the original insulation in the
rear compartment and in the headliner. I've added insulation to the
interior, but if it wasn't so much work I would have also removed the old
foam from inside as well.

Henry


Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (831) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com