The Motorhome's" new home is almost ready

> The concrete flooring guys who did my garage also floated it too early causing loose and flaking sections. When they came back to cut the stress
> slots the next morning, they quickly left after they were done and never came back. The concrete subcontractor took up the large loose sections and
> fixed it with some concrete patch the ready-mix Engineer provided him with. So I have a number of patches on the floor.
>
> 5 years later you can see the cracks around the loose areas. Drop or drag a wrench you can hear the loose areas. I'd like to put down a coating
> before the loose pieces start coming up.
>
> I've talked to the local professional guys and yes its expensive. I'll contact that Epoxy.com place mentioned above.
>
> Thanks,
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6483-the-murray-gets-a-home.html

I am sorry to hear that you had issues with your concrete floor. I hope my guys did a good job even though they did it at the tail end of the season
(last day in November). I also have radiant tubing in my floor. I had them install "zip strips" instead of saw cuts since I didn't want to take a
chance on the saw cutting a tube. Zip strips were recommend by the radiant heat system vendor.

I hesitate to put pictures of my new garage on the web because it is not much compared to your garage. Also as compared to Chuck's Boyd's as well as
Blaine & Diane's Garage Mahals.

--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Coop Roller Cam 455, Howell TBI + EBL, 3.42 FD, Quadra Bag, Macerator, Lenzi stuff, Manny Tranny etc.
 
> Richard,
>
> Are you going to bring pictures to lunch??
>
> Matt

I will make sure to bring some in my iPad
--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Coop Roller Cam 455, Howell TBI + EBL, 3.42 FD, Quadra Bag, Macerator, Lenzi stuff, Manny Tranny etc.
 
[/quote]
I am sorry to hear that you had issues with your concrete floor. I hope my guys did a good job even though they did it at the tail end of the season
(last day in November). I also have radiant tubing in my floor. I had them install "zip strips" instead of saw cuts since I didn't want to take a
chance on the saw cutting a tube. Zip strips were recommend by the radiant heat system vendor.

I hesitate to put pictures of my new garage on the web because it is not much compared to your garage. Also as compared to Chuck's Boyd's as well as
Blaine & Diane's Garage Mahals.

[/quote]

Richard:

I think I mentioned to you that my floor was poured Thanksgiving week of 2006 and it has held up well. You had highs of about 40 and lows of about 30
the day of the pour and for 4 days afterward, so you should be fine. Concrete develops some heat when curing so no need to worry about it going
slightly below freezing at night.

I'll be at the Red Wings game and eon't make the GMC lunch. Can you post the garage photos on your website?

--
Mike K.
'75 PB
Southeast Michigan
 
Some years ago we did a basement floor in the homestead with a Sargent's product called 'Marmoplast'. It was a two part in one can coating, you
stirred it a certain number of times and applied it with a coarse brush. The two parts were immiscible, so the result was a speckled coating, the
size of the speckles determined by the number of stirs before it was applied. It was then coated with a unrethane varnish and allowed to set up. We
applied it in 1960, I saw the house a few months ago, that floor still looks good. If I ever decide to do my RV shed's floor I'm going to look for it
or its successor

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
E.P.A. banned that stuff years ago. Toxins abounded along with airborne
hazards. Anything long lasting and good disappeared about the same time.
It's a long list. M.E.K.P., Nitrocellulose lacquer, caustic soda for hot
tanks, asbestos, and many others. All in the name of "possible contaminant
or carcinogen". Probably all for the best. Emery will know for sure.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

On Mon, Mar 18, 2019, 8:53 AM Johnny Bridges via Gmclist <

> Some years ago we did a basement floor in the homestead with a Sargent's
> product called 'Marmoplast'. It was a two part in one can coating, you
> stirred it a certain number of times and applied it with a coarse brush.
> The two parts were immiscible, so the result was a speckled coating, the
> size of the speckles determined by the number of stirs before it was
> applied. It was then coated with a unrethane varnish and allowed to set
> up. We
> applied it in 1960, I saw the house a few months ago, that floor still
> looks good. If I ever decide to do my RV shed's floor I'm going to look
> for it
> or its successor
>
> --johnny
> --
> Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Richard -

I have this in my garage: www.swisstrax.com. I chose the Ribtrax, but just a single color. These are snap-together tiles that you can install
yourself. Best improvement I ever made, and very cost-effective compared to a floor finish. Completely hides stains, cracks, etc., and dirt/debris
falls through the openings and never shows. My garage floor always looks beautiful. Water also falls through the openings, so the floor is never
slippery. Every spring I just split the entire floor into two parts, drag each half out of the garage, then sweep/hose down the concrete. While the
concrete is drying, I use my long washing brush to soap and scrub the tiles, then rinse with a hose. Dries in the sun, then slide the two parts back
in and reconnect. If a tile gets damaged, you just replace it. Never have to worry about a finish peeling up, either.

If you're interested, let me know (they pay for referrals!). You are also welcome to come by and see mine. Going on three years now and no issues
whatsoever.
--
Nick Chapekis
Ypsilanti, MI
78 Kingsley
 
Yeah, we had three hot tanks at the flat motor shop. Two were hydroseal Gunk and the third was a caustic compound for non - ferrous metals. The Gunk
was nasty stuff, and the caustic was no foolin' dangerous. Tanks were air drive and had an agitating metal basket for the arts.heated to about
150. The EPA would run screaming into the sunset. Now the shops got washing machines.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
> Richard -
>
> I have this in my garage: www.swisstrax.com. I chose the Ribtrax, but just a single color. These are snap-together tiles that you can install
> yourself. Best improvement I ever made, and very cost-effective compared to a floor finish. Completely hides stains, cracks, etc., and dirt/debris
> falls through the openings and never shows. My garage floor always looks beautiful. Water also falls through the openings, so the floor is never
> slippery. Every spring I just split the entire floor into two parts, drag each half out of the garage, then sweep/hose down the concrete. While the
> concrete is drying, I use my long washing brush to soap and scrub the tiles, then rinse with a hose. Dries in the sun, then slide the two parts
> back in and reconnect. If a tile gets damaged, you just replace it. Never have to worry about a finish peeling up, either.
>
> If you're interested, let me know (they pay for referrals!). You are also welcome to come by and see mine. Going on three years now and no
> issues whatsoever.

Nick,
Sounds like you have a real nice garage. Do you keep your dad's '59 (IIRC) Buick there?

I was surprised to find Swisstrax available at Home Depot and Amazon. I think at ~$5/square foot it might be too pricey for "the Motorhome's" new
digs. There we have almost 900 ft2 to cover. My car garage on the other hand would be good for something like what you have. It's only a 2 1/2 car
garage and has cracks in the floor as well as deep control joints that I would like to hide.

I would like to see your floor sometime.

--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Coop Roller Cam 455, Howell TBI + EBL, 3.42 FD, Quadra Bag, Macerator, Lenzi stuff, Manny Tranny etc.
 
Richard,
A few years back, I did quite a bit of research on this, because at that time I was giving thought to coating my floor before actually finishing my
garage addition. For various reasons, I didn't go that way, and still haven't done the floor. But, I think what I found out is probably still pretty
good information. There is a website garagejournal.com who's forum gets a ton of posts about garage floor coatings. After reading a lot of those
posts, I've settled on a diy approach from Legacy Industrial (gegacyindustrial.net) that was highly recommended on that forum. One other company came
up a lot, but I thought Legacy was better. They are super diy friendly, have a ton of information on their website, and include phone support on
weekends. At one time, they gave a 10% discount if you were a garage journal.net member, and also have the occasional sale posted there. It's a lot
more expensive than Rustoleum at HomeDepot, and somewhat more expensive than U-Coat-It and CarGuysFlooring (Detroit based vendors). But, I think it's
a better value and a better product. It's not something you want to do every 5 years, and taking the old stuff off, is much more difficult than
putting the right stuff on.

One of the reasons I like them is they don't take shortcuts in their tech articles and recommendations. They say if you want it done right, you have
to grind the floor, and not just prep it with muriatic acid that some companies use. They've worked with Home Depot to make diamond coated prep discs
for their floor sanders rentable in most locations. And, unfortunately for the black and white checkerboard pattern they are hoping for, they said
you need to do the full 3-step process like you would with car paint, with a primer, base coat and clear coat. They assert (and I believe them) if
you want adhesion, lack of pickup, and UV fade resistance. (my lakefront garage has a fair number of windows in it.) it's just what's necessary.

Having said that, they have a newer poly-something coating, (maybe polyurea? instead of the 3 step, two-part epoxy) that they have been promoting in
ads, that I've seen lately. I think it's fewer steps/coats, but maybe pricier. Even if you decide to go with something else, it would be worth
calling their technical # as they'd still probably give you good advice. And if you are going to use them, it would be worth asking them pro's and
con's of the new product vs. the traditional for your particular application. They also offer sealers, which are a cheaper, possibly more durable, but
nowhere near as pretty product unless you polish the concrete before you put them down.

I also looked at some of the RaceDeck and SwissTrax type products, and even bought the SwissTrax sample kit that I still use as an entrance mat. If
you have a showplace garage, I think they'd be great, but If you plan a real, working garage, I don't see it as a good solution. Price-wise it isn't
much different than pro-installed epoxy, but is probably double or more what good diy epoxy costs. Although they say it will, I'm not convinced it
would hold up to floor jacks, and transmission jacks and such rolling on it, and in the case of the SwissTrax, they wouldn't roll smoothly. Also,
with the SwissTrax, if you just wanted it clean, their recommended version has open lattices in it, and you can powerwash it and it drains through the
slats. If you live on a lake, and spill a quart of oil on it, you're spending some frantic time pulling up tiles, wiping up a big mess, putting tiles
down, and probably still having to powerwash it when you finish the project. Less the wiping and washing part, dropping a tiny nut, bolt or Jesus
clip has the same issues. So, I decide life was too short for tiles.

If you want more info, give me a call, or pm me, Craig. (the one you can blame for the radiant heat!)
--
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
 
> Richard,
> A few years back, I did quite a bit of research on this, because at that time I was giving thought to coating my floor before actually finishing
> my garage addition. For various reasons, I didn't go that way, and still haven't done the floor. But, I think what I found out is probably still
> pretty good information. There is a website garagejournal.com who's forum gets a ton of posts about garage floor coatings. After reading a lot of
> those posts, I've settled on a diy approach from Legacy Industrial (gegacyindustrial.net) that was highly recommended on that forum. One other
> company came up a lot, but I thought Legacy was better. They are super diy friendly, have a ton of information on their website, and include phone
> support on weekends. At one time, they gave a 10% discount if you were a garage journal.net member, and also have the occasional sale posted there.
> It's a lot more expensive than Rustoleum at HomeDepot, and somewhat more expensive than U-Coat-It and CarGuysFlooring (Detroit based vendors). But,
> I think it's a better value and a better product. It's not something you want to do every 5 years, and taking the old stuff off, is much more
> difficult than putting the right stuff on.
> roject. Less the wiping and washing part, dropping a tiny nut, bolt or Jesus clip has the same issues. So, I decide life was too short for
> tiles.
> ...........
> If you want more info, give me a call, or pm me, Craig. (the one you can blame for the radiant heat!)

Craig, Thanks for your comprehensive write up of floor covering options. I have a lot to think about as I close in on the end of the construction
phase being done by the contractor. The initial wiring should be done this week and hopefully final approvals for that and the garage construction
from the city. Then I can get going on the rest of the project (drywall, more wiring, the floor's finish and cabinets and shelving). I'd like to move
in by end of May. Later in the year I will hopefully finish the radiant heat in time for cold weather.


--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Coop Roller Cam 455, Howell TBI + EBL, 3.42 FD, Quadra Bag, Macerator, Lenzi stuff, Manny Tranny etc.
 
Good Luck, it always takes way longer than you hope it would. Also, autocorrect didn't help me on Legacy's website, it's actually
legacyindustrial.net and not gegacy. Thought I posted that correction earlier, but the interwebbie must have eaten it.

--
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
 
> Good Luck, it always takes way longer than you hope it would. Also, autocorrect didn't help me on Legacy's website, it's actually
> legacyindustrial.net and not gegacy. Thought I posted that correction earlier, but the interwebbie must have eaten it.

We originally thought we would be done with the garage almost 2 years ago, until we got turned down for the permit. Then I procrastinated on putting
together an appeal for the zoning board of appeals. And then the contractor did his procrastinating thing. At any rate, end is in sight.

When I couldn't find gegacy.com, I used DuckDuckGo (my new favorite search engine over google) to search for Legacy Industrial. Got
http://www.legacyindustrial.net/. would it be DuckDuckGoed instead of Googled?

Looks like a good source of info on flooring coatings.
--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Coop Roller Cam 455, Howell TBI + EBL, 3.42 FD, Quadra Bag, Macerator, Lenzi stuff, Manny Tranny etc.
 
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