Im by no means an expert, but I would start logically. When the timing chain was replaced, did you or someone verify that the timing is correct? With
a timing light? If you verified that the timing is correct, then move on.
Does the engine currently start and run? If it does, can you let it idle for as long as you care to at the current elevation. When its running can
you rev it up a bit or hold your foot on the gas a bit and kick the RPMs up to say 1200 or so. Does it bog down, or want to die. Is the choke
functioning properly on the carb, it will take a bit of time to warm up and fully open.
If you can answer yes to all of those questions, than at least at this point and its current elevation, you can rule out the engine and its needs
(Timing, Fuel, Spark) somewhat as being the issue. If currently the engine is sputtering and dying and wont rev up, or hold an idle, then you need
to start looking at that first. Prior to the transmission.
Again, Start with the easy stuff if the engine is not running properly. Do you have enough gas in both tanks, how old is the gas, Are one or more of
the fuel filters old/clogged/gummed up preventing proper fuel flow to the carb. As for the carb, has it ever been rebuilt? Does it need to be
rebuilt, if you can step on the gas with a bone cold engine and the air cleaner off, can you see a few squirts of gas being sprayed into the carb? If
not, that may be a fuel delivery issue (Gummed up filters/carb/fuel lines).
Provided the engine checks out move on.
If the coach is on LEVEL ground. Warm the engine up to normal temp, shut it off and then check the ATF level. Are you low? If low add some and see
if that doesn't make a difference in shifting and getting to coach to move under its own power. Some fluid meaning enough to bring it up on the
dipstick a bit. Like a pint or less at a time.
Can you tell or do you know where its been parked if anything like ATF is leaking out of it from the pan area. This would give you a better idea if a
little or a lot has leaked out over the winter.
Re reading your post, what type of incline are you trying to go up? and how much gas did you have in the tanks. Is is possible that what fuel you had
was being pushed toward the rear of the tank you were on, and that is what caused the stall/lack of power.
Again, Start with all the easy stuff, and perhaps the easiest is to get a gas can and fresh gas and top off the tanks as best you can. Without
knowing the incline, its possible if you had say a 1/4 tank in each of the tanks that you were sucking air.
Just some thoughts anyway.
--
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan
a timing light? If you verified that the timing is correct, then move on.
Does the engine currently start and run? If it does, can you let it idle for as long as you care to at the current elevation. When its running can
you rev it up a bit or hold your foot on the gas a bit and kick the RPMs up to say 1200 or so. Does it bog down, or want to die. Is the choke
functioning properly on the carb, it will take a bit of time to warm up and fully open.
If you can answer yes to all of those questions, than at least at this point and its current elevation, you can rule out the engine and its needs
(Timing, Fuel, Spark) somewhat as being the issue. If currently the engine is sputtering and dying and wont rev up, or hold an idle, then you need
to start looking at that first. Prior to the transmission.
Again, Start with the easy stuff if the engine is not running properly. Do you have enough gas in both tanks, how old is the gas, Are one or more of
the fuel filters old/clogged/gummed up preventing proper fuel flow to the carb. As for the carb, has it ever been rebuilt? Does it need to be
rebuilt, if you can step on the gas with a bone cold engine and the air cleaner off, can you see a few squirts of gas being sprayed into the carb? If
not, that may be a fuel delivery issue (Gummed up filters/carb/fuel lines).
Provided the engine checks out move on.
If the coach is on LEVEL ground. Warm the engine up to normal temp, shut it off and then check the ATF level. Are you low? If low add some and see
if that doesn't make a difference in shifting and getting to coach to move under its own power. Some fluid meaning enough to bring it up on the
dipstick a bit. Like a pint or less at a time.
Can you tell or do you know where its been parked if anything like ATF is leaking out of it from the pan area. This would give you a better idea if a
little or a lot has leaked out over the winter.
Re reading your post, what type of incline are you trying to go up? and how much gas did you have in the tanks. Is is possible that what fuel you had
was being pushed toward the rear of the tank you were on, and that is what caused the stall/lack of power.
Again, Start with all the easy stuff, and perhaps the easiest is to get a gas can and fresh gas and top off the tanks as best you can. Without
knowing the incline, its possible if you had say a 1/4 tank in each of the tanks that you were sucking air.
Just some thoughts anyway.
--
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan
