The adventure begins
- Thread starter TNWestBnd
- Start date
Before you start that engine, read this.
This is a fairly long process, but could save the engine from dry start-up damage.
Good for you saving another GMC!!
This is a fairly long process, but could save the engine from dry start-up damage.
Good for you saving another GMC!!
For the purpose of locating and keeping track of all Classic GMC Motorhomes. There are currently over 8400 GMCs accounted for.
Please fill out and submit the online form at www.gmcmhregistry.com
* Note about the Build Date of your GMC: From the decal on the inside of the glove box door - look for a number on the top line just left of center, similar to "032174". The example indicates the build date as March 21st, 1974. *
Thank you
Please fill out and submit the online form at www.gmcmhregistry.com
* Note about the Build Date of your GMC: From the decal on the inside of the glove box door - look for a number on the top line just left of center, similar to "032174". The example indicates the build date as March 21st, 1974. *
Thank you
How far are you moving it?
I recently moved one about 200 miles after it sat for about 20 years. Personally, I would:
Pull the spark plugs and squirt in some motor oil. Let it sit a day. In the meantime;
get the lights working.
Jack up each wheel and verify they spin freely. Check that the brakes work on each tire.
Check all the fluids.
Loosen but don't remove the radiator cap. This will ensure the system doesn't build pressure and possibly blow out the radiator or old hoses. If the cooling system can't keep up with the heat produced it will just boil off some water, no big deal, you can add more water on your trip. Watch for steam.
Get a good/new battery in it with a full charge.
I would also consider driving it home using a fresh gas tank. If the fuel pump has a bypass line returning to the fuel tank, be sure to get that into your tank as well or you'll just pump all your fresh fuel into the old tanks. I recovered my parts GMC by strapping a 5 gal can to the front bumper, the fuel line from the tanks switches from steel to rubber just behind the bumper, so I disconnected there and went to the new fuel tank. The bypass line is also there, personally I followed it back to near beneath the galley, cut it and brought it forward into the new fuel tank.
After sitting for a day with oil in the cylinders, leave out the plugs, pull the power supply connector from the distributor to protect the ignition module, and try turning over the engine. This will blow out the excess oil and hopefully you'll see the oil pressure start to build.
AFter cranking, with fuel connected, the fuel bowls in the carb should have filled. Check for fuel squirting into the carb from the accelerator pump. If you see it squirt, the carb and fuel pump may be ok. If not, check that you're getting fuel. I actually disconnected the fuel line and cranked to pump fresh fuel into a coffee can first, to flush out the lines. Also gives you a chance to change out the filter.
Once you know you have fresh fuel, oil pressure, good fluid levels, ... put the plugs in, reconnect the power to the distributor and see if it will start.
Then check to see if it will move a little in F and R, and check brakes. If you're on a hill, I'd make sure you have brakes first before taking it out of Park obviously.
There's probably a lot more but you get the idea, you'll figure it out. Good luck.
The fact that you only plan to go 50 miles is nice, but at least look at the GMC Assist (aka Black's) list before you go.
Matt
Matt
If you get it started and it has brakes.....once the motor is idling put the trans into neutral for a few minutes (while holding brakes if needed) and that will move oil threw the trans.
Your saying its only 50 miles but that tow bill might be 500 to 700$.....and if its safe to drive etc you can put that money into parts instead.
Either way ....you do it were it is or you'll have to do it once you get it towed home....choice is yours.
Your saying its only 50 miles but that tow bill might be 500 to 700$.....and if its safe to drive etc you can put that money into parts instead.
Either way ....you do it were it is or you'll have to do it once you get it towed home....choice is yours.
we had our first one towed home, 98 miles. we added / upgraded our AAA to RV+. was 26 $ prorated to the end of the year and two free 100 mile tows a year. easy peezy. took the time to play at home and brought up the oil pressure with a drill motor connected to the oil pump after marking and removing the distributor.
