That smell is back! LONG WINDED!

R

richard waters

New member
Feb 8, 1999
1,236
0
0
> It's that time of year. Warm weather is upon us
> and so is the smell from our GMC!
>
> The problem seems to be a leaky connection
> between the shower drain and the holding tank
> of our '76 Palm Beach. At least that is my theory.
>
> Here's what happens. When I dump the "infamous
> recirculating toilet" a second time (it holds about 7
> gallons when full) a small amount backs up from the
> shower drain. Not a big deal because I've learned
> only to dump the toilet more then once at a dumping
> station. There I have a hose handy to hose down the
> bath module. Besides the water backing up into the shower
> I will usually find water leaking under the coach.
>
> I think that black water is leaking out someplace on top
> of the holding tank and causing our odor.
>
> Does anyone know how I can inspect the area between
> the bottom of the shower module and the top of the holding
> tank to see where it is leaking?
>
> The aroma is not too inviting and is starting to cause my wife
> to have second thoughts about going on any extended trips in the
> GMC.
>
> Comments and/or suggestions will certainly be appreciated.
>

3 months later:
I didn't do anything and the odor went away. Now its back, worse then
ever. The timing "stinks!"

I have less then three weeks left before I leave for a big (for us)
trip. I
have the entire headliner etc. out now. And I thought that was going to

be a big enough project just getting that back together. Now I have to
deal
with this odor problem.

I tried to take the kick panel out under the bath module (wet bath) to
see
if I can gain access to the connections between the bottom of the bath
and
the holding tank. No luck! The kick panel won't come out. The kick
panel
I'm referring to is (or was) behind a 3" vertical piece of vintage green

shag carpet next to the floor.

I took all the screws out and it only partly comes out. It's seems to
be stuck
in the area by the "vertically challenged people" ramp to the back. Do
I have to
take the ramp out to get to a hidden screw?

Is there anyone that has a GM built motorhome with experience getting at
the
holding tank? If I don't get this fixed, the coach is history for this
trip. The
chief decision maker here has decided, that if I can't get rid of the
smell, then we
will be flying to Colorado instead of going in the GMC.

Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
 
Richard, I had the same problem your having. The culprit turned out to be a
cracked threaded fitting where the drain pipe from the sink joins the
holding tank.I dropped the tank and replaced the fitting from a local
plumbing shop, and reinstalled the tank.
Ray Haywood
Corning CA
73 Painted Desert

>
> > It's that time of year. Warm weather is upon us
> > and so is the smell from our GMC!
> >
> > The problem seems to be a leaky connection
> > between the shower drain and the holding tank
> > of our '76 Palm Beach. At least that is my theory.
> >
> > Here's what happens. When I dump the "infamous
> > recirculating toilet" a second time (it holds about 7
> > gallons when full) a small amount backs up from the
> > shower drain. Not a big deal because I've learned
> > only to dump the toilet more then once at a dumping
> > station. There I have a hose handy to hose down the
> > bath module. Besides the water backing up into the shower
> > I will usually find water leaking under the coach.
> >
> > I think that black water is leaking out someplace on top
> > of the holding tank and causing our odor.
> >
> > Does anyone know how I can inspect the area between
> > the bottom of the shower module and the top of the holding
> > tank to see where it is leaking?
> >
> > The aroma is not too inviting and is starting to cause my wife
> > to have second thoughts about going on any extended trips in the
> > GMC.
> >
> > Comments and/or suggestions will certainly be appreciated.
> >
>
> 3 months later:
> I didn't do anything and the odor went away. Now its back, worse then
> ever. The timing "stinks!"
>
> I have less then three weeks left before I leave for a big (for us)
> trip. I
> have the entire headliner etc. out now. And I thought that was going to
>
> be a big enough project just getting that back together. Now I have to
> deal
> with this odor problem.
>
> I tried to take the kick panel out under the bath module (wet bath) to
> see
> if I can gain access to the connections between the bottom of the bath
> and
> the holding tank. No luck! The kick panel won't come out. The kick
> panel
> I'm referring to is (or was) behind a 3" vertical piece of vintage green
>
> shag carpet next to the floor.
>
> I took all the screws out and it only partly comes out. It's seems to
> be stuck
> in the area by the "vertically challenged people" ramp to the back. Do
> I have to
> take the ramp out to get to a hidden screw?
>
> Is there anyone that has a GM built motorhome with experience getting at
> the
> holding tank? If I don't get this fixed, the coach is history for this
> trip. The
> chief decision maker here has decided, that if I can't get rid of the
> smell, then we
> will be flying to Colorado instead of going in the GMC.
>
> Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
 
Ray,
I have access to a ramp where I can walk around under my GMC.

Is it a major project to drop the holding tank?

Can you get at the fittings that need to be undone easily from
under the coach?

Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
- ----

> Richard, I had the same problem your having. The culprit turned out to be a
> cracked threaded fitting where the drain pipe from the sink joins the
> holding tank.I dropped the tank and replaced the fitting from a local
> plumbing shop, and reinstalled the tank.
> Ray Haywood
> Corning CA
> 73 Painted Desert
>

>

> >
> > > It's that time of year. Warm weather is upon us
> > > and so is the smell from our GMC!
> > >
> > > The problem seems to be a leaky connection
> > > between the shower drain and the holding tank
> > > of our '76 Palm Beach. At least that is my theory.
> > >
> > > Here's what happens. When I dump the "infamous
> > > recirculating toilet" a second time (it holds about 7
> > > gallons when full) a small amount backs up from the
> > > shower drain. Not a big deal because I've learned
> > > only to dump the toilet more then once at a dumping
> > > station. There I have a hose handy to hose down the
> > > bath module. Besides the water backing up into the shower
> > > I will usually find water leaking under the coach.
> > >
> > > I think that black water is leaking out someplace on top
> > > of the holding tank and causing our odor.
> > >
> > > Does anyone know how I can inspect the area between
> > > the bottom of the shower module and the top of the holding
> > > tank to see where it is leaking?
> > >
> > > The aroma is not too inviting and is starting to cause my wife
> > > to have second thoughts about going on any extended trips in the
> > > GMC.
> > >
> > > Comments and/or suggestions will certainly be appreciated.
> > >
> >
> > 3 months later:
> > I didn't do anything and the odor went away. Now its back, worse then
> > ever. The timing "stinks!"
> >
> > I have less then three weeks left before I leave for a big (for us)
> > trip. I
> > have the entire headliner etc. out now. And I thought that was going to
> >
> > be a big enough project just getting that back together. Now I have to
> > deal
> > with this odor problem.
> >
> > I tried to take the kick panel out under the bath module (wet bath) to
> > see
> > if I can gain access to the connections between the bottom of the bath
> > and
> > the holding tank. No luck! The kick panel won't come out. The kick
> > panel
> > I'm referring to is (or was) behind a 3" vertical piece of vintage green
> >
> > shag carpet next to the floor.
> >
> > I took all the screws out and it only partly comes out. It's seems to
> > be stuck
> > in the area by the "vertically challenged people" ramp to the back. Do
> > I have to
> > take the ramp out to get to a hidden screw?
> >
> > Is there anyone that has a GM built motorhome with experience getting at
> > the
> > holding tank? If I don't get this fixed, the coach is history for this
> > trip. The
> > chief decision maker here has decided, that if I can't get rid of the
> > smell, then we
> > will be flying to Colorado instead of going in the GMC.
> >
> > Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
 
According to the December 98 issue of Cinnebar's GMC News magazine..."No you
don't have to drop the holding tank. The shower drain P-trap assembly is
accessible by removing the "toe" strip under the door-side of the bathroom.
Remove the floor carpet and the "toe" carpet and you will find a couple of
screws that hold the strip in place. Remove the strip and you will see the
underside of the shower and the P-trap drain assembly in a plastic dish in
the floor."

They go on as to how to change the shower drain. Hope this has been of
help. If you need any more of the issue, let me know.

Wayne Newland F9300 75 Plam Beach

>
> > It's that time of year. Warm weather is upon us
> > and so is the smell from our GMC!
> >
> > The problem seems to be a leaky connection
> > between the shower drain and the holding tank
> > of our '76 Palm Beach. At least that is my theory.
> >
> > Here's what happens. When I dump the "infamous
> > recirculating toilet" a second time (it holds about 7
> > gallons when full) a small amount backs up from the
> > shower drain. Not a big deal because I've learned
> > only to dump the toilet more then once at a dumping
> > station. There I have a hose handy to hose down the
> > bath module. Besides the water backing up into the shower
> > I will usually find water leaking under the coach.
> >
> > I think that black water is leaking out someplace on top
> > of the holding tank and causing our odor.
> >
> > Does anyone know how I can inspect the area between
> > the bottom of the shower module and the top of the holding
> > tank to see where it is leaking?
> >
> > The aroma is not too inviting and is starting to cause my wife
> > to have second thoughts about going on any extended trips in the
> > GMC.
> >
> > Comments and/or suggestions will certainly be appreciated.
> >
>
> 3 months later:
> I didn't do anything and the odor went away. Now its back, worse then
> ever. The timing "stinks!"
>
> I have less then three weeks left before I leave for a big (for us)
> trip. I
> have the entire headliner etc. out now. And I thought that was going to
>
> be a big enough project just getting that back together. Now I have to
> deal
> with this odor problem.
>
> I tried to take the kick panel out under the bath module (wet bath) to
> see
> if I can gain access to the connections between the bottom of the bath
> and
> the holding tank. No luck! The kick panel won't come out. The kick
> panel
> I'm referring to is (or was) behind a 3" vertical piece of vintage green
>
> shag carpet next to the floor.
>
> I took all the screws out and it only partly comes out. It's seems to
> be stuck
> in the area by the "vertically challenged people" ramp to the back. Do
> I have to
> take the ramp out to get to a hidden screw?
>
> Is there anyone that has a GM built motorhome with experience getting at
> the
> holding tank? If I don't get this fixed, the coach is history for this
> trip. The
> chief decision maker here has decided, that if I can't get rid of the
> smell, then we
> will be flying to Colorado instead of going in the GMC.
>
> Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
 
>
>
>> It's that time of year. Warm weather is upon us
>> and so is the smell from our GMC!
>>
>> The problem seems to be a leaky connection
>> between the shower drain and the holding tank
>> of our '76 Palm Beach. At least that is my theory.

Hi Richard,

A while back, while parked on vacation, I got the "leaky holding tank" odor
too, but more noticeable outside than inside the GMC. I checked to be sure
tank wasn't actually leaking and, on seeing that it wasn't, decided not to
try to deal with it at the time and let it go until we returned home. We
dumped the tank on return but, curiously, the odor didn't disappear! After
a couple of days in the driveway, my wife commented that it smelled more
like (propane) gas than holding tank odor. I checked and, indeed, the
propane tank was virtually empty - and it had been about half full on last
useage the previous winter. I turned it off at the control valve and the
odor went away. FWIW, you might check the propane system - the odors can be
pretty similar.

HTH,
Marion Hope
('77 Kingsley)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
G.M. Hope, Ph.D.
1930 SW 19th Way gmhope
Gainesville, FL 32608 gmhope
(352) 371-2795 (Home) (352) 846-2111 (Office)
 
Marion, Thanks for the tip.

The possibility does exist that my problem is propane related.

I just went out and checked and sure enough the valve at the
tank is on. I closed it and will know tomorrow if that may
have contributed to the proplem. I'll let you know what happens.

Richard

> A while back, while parked on vacation, I got the "leaky holding tank" odor
> too, but more noticeable outside than inside the GMC. I checked to be sure
> tank wasn't actually leaking and, on seeing that it wasn't, decided not to
> try to deal with it at the time and let it go until we returned home. We
> dumped the tank on return but, curiously, the odor didn't disappear! After
> a couple of days in the driveway, my wife commented that it smelled more
> like (propane) gas than holding tank odor. I checked and, indeed, the
> propane tank was virtually empty - and it had been about half full on last
> useage the previous winter. I turned it off at the control valve and the
> odor went away. FWIW, you might check the propane system - the odors can be
> pretty similar.
>
 
Wayne,
Thanks for the tip. I'll look at that issue of GMC News..

I've been trying to get that kick panel out. It seems to be
a job easier said then done. Seems like all the jobs I do are
that way.

Richard

> According to the December 98 issue of Cinnebar's GMC News magazine..."No you
> don't have to drop the holding tank. The shower drain P-trap assembly is
> accessible by removing the "toe" strip under the door-side of the bathroom.
> Remove the floor carpet and the "toe" carpet and you will find a couple of
> screws that hold the strip in place. Remove the strip and you will see the
> underside of the shower and the P-trap drain assembly in a plastic dish in
> the floor."
>
 
Scott,
Thanks for a list of obvious things to look for. I think
all the traps are full of water. The wood rot is something
I had not thought of.

The coach is stored outside.

I guess I may end up pulling the toilet to get a better view
of what's down there. I'll be able to put a new wax ring in
at that time.
Richard

> Some suggestions to try and figure out what it is-- Make sure toilet bowl is
> sealed, either water in bowl or tape plastic around top of bowl to seal.
> Make sure water is in bathroom floor trap. Make sure water is in sink traps
> sink and kitchen. Exhaust for a while using roof vent fans. Check for smell
> later. If you still have a smell maybe it could be your toilet bowl wax
> ring? Is your coach stored outside? Maybe you have a roof leak that hasn't
> been discovered--sometimes rotting wet wood/carpet gives off odiferous
> molecules.
> Just some thoughts
>
 
Scott,
You are scaring me! For someone who does frame off
restorations for fun, you said pulling the holding tank
was "quite a project."

> For me
> it was quite a project to remove the tank.
>
 
Richard,
I did my tank removal exactly as described by scott,only mine went very
smoothly.One tip I picked up on this net was to soak the nuts and threads that
hold the tank straps. After removing the nuts and lowering your tank with the
plywood and floor jack, and rolling it out from under the coach,run a thread
chaser on the two long bolts that tighten the straps.
Ray
73 Painted Desert
Corning, CA

> Ray,
> I have access to a ramp where I can walk around under my GMC.
>
> Is it a major project to drop the holding tank?
>
> Can you get at the fittings that need to be undone easily from
> under the coach?
>
> Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
> ----
>

>
> > Richard, I had the same problem your having. The culprit turned out to be a
> > cracked threaded fitting where the drain pipe from the sink joins the
> > holding tank.I dropped the tank and replaced the fitting from a local
> > plumbing shop, and reinstalled the tank.
> > Ray Haywood
> > Corning CA
> > 73 Painted Desert
> >

> >

> > >
> > > > It's that time of year. Warm weather is upon us
> > > > and so is the smell from our GMC!
> > > >
> > > > The problem seems to be a leaky connection
> > > > between the shower drain and the holding tank
> > > > of our '76 Palm Beach. At least that is my theory.
> > > >
> > > > Here's what happens. When I dump the "infamous
> > > > recirculating toilet" a second time (it holds about 7
> > > > gallons when full) a small amount backs up from the
> > > > shower drain. Not a big deal because I've learned
> > > > only to dump the toilet more then once at a dumping
> > > > station. There I have a hose handy to hose down the
> > > > bath module. Besides the water backing up into the shower
> > > > I will usually find water leaking under the coach.
> > > >
> > > > I think that black water is leaking out someplace on top
> > > > of the holding tank and causing our odor.
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone know how I can inspect the area between
> > > > the bottom of the shower module and the top of the holding
> > > > tank to see where it is leaking?
> > > >
> > > > The aroma is not too inviting and is starting to cause my wife
> > > > to have second thoughts about going on any extended trips in the
> > > > GMC.
> > > >
> > > > Comments and/or suggestions will certainly be appreciated.
> > > >
> > >
> > > 3 months later:
> > > I didn't do anything and the odor went away. Now its back, worse then
> > > ever. The timing "stinks!"
> > >
> > > I have less then three weeks left before I leave for a big (for us)
> > > trip. I
> > > have the entire headliner etc. out now. And I thought that was going to
> > >
> > > be a big enough project just getting that back together. Now I have to
> > > deal
> > > with this odor problem.
> > >
> > > I tried to take the kick panel out under the bath module (wet bath) to
> > > see
> > > if I can gain access to the connections between the bottom of the bath
> > > and
> > > the holding tank. No luck! The kick panel won't come out. The kick
> > > panel
> > > I'm referring to is (or was) behind a 3" vertical piece of vintage green
> > >
> > > shag carpet next to the floor.
> > >
> > > I took all the screws out and it only partly comes out. It's seems to
> > > be stuck
> > > in the area by the "vertically challenged people" ramp to the back. Do
> > > I have to
> > > take the ramp out to get to a hidden screw?
> > >
> > > Is there anyone that has a GM built motorhome with experience getting at
> > > the
> > > holding tank? If I don't get this fixed, the coach is history for this
> > > trip. The
> > > chief decision maker here has decided, that if I can't get rid of the
> > > smell, then we
> > > will be flying to Colorado instead of going in the GMC.
> > >
> > > Richard Waters '76 PB, Troy, MI
 
I guess I may end up pulling the toilet to get a better view
of what's down there. I'll be able to put a new wax ring in
at that time.

Hello Richard;

Unfortunately I can't say what is wrong with your system, but I
recently replaced the electro-slop jar with the aurora and can offer a
little insight maybe. Replacement/removal is very easy to do. There is no
wax ring, but a rubber gasket. Otherwise, there is the mounting ring/flange.
The original rubber ring was not centered propperly, may not be on yours
causing intermitent loss of seal? The flange looks like its bolted and
sealed to the floor and extends down into the holding tank about 6-7".
Also, on the rot issue, be sure the flange to module area is packed with
plumbers putty so that water from showers, etc does not leak beneath the
module and do damage to the wooden subfloor. My electro had a tiny leak in
its tank that was obvious once I had it out. Luckily, replaced it before I
ever used it. Hope this helps. walter bright, 76GB.
 
Well I had a nice conversation with Max at Buskrik/Rush RV about
my problems. After talking to him and reading all the responses
to my plight, I think I'm going to get a new toilet. The recirculating
toilet, if in top condition, may be a good deal. In my case however,
it may be part of the "odor problem." My wife has never liked the
concept of using someone else's 23 year old toilet, plus one that
recirculates the sewage when it flushes.

Anyone have a toilet to recommend? One that my wife will approve of.
I'm hoping it will be an easy swap. Anyone want a used toilet cheap?

By the way, talking to Max was like talking to Jim Bounds. He's full of
information pertaining to our motorhomes. Another great resource.

> Unfortunately I can't say what is wrong with your system, but I
> recently replaced the electro-slop jar with the aurora and can offer a
> little insight maybe. Replacement/removal is very easy to do. There is no
> wax ring, but a rubber gasket. Otherwise, there is the mounting ring/flange.
> The original rubber ring was not centered propperly, may not be on yours
> causing intermitent loss of seal? The flange looks like its bolted and
> sealed to the floor and extends down into the holding tank about 6-7".
> Also, on the rot issue, be sure the flange to module area is packed with
> plumbers putty so that water from showers, etc does not leak beneath the
> module and do damage to the wooden subfloor. My electro had a tiny leak in
> its tank that was obvious once I had it out. Luckily, replaced it before I
> ever used it. Hope this helps. walter bright, 76GB.
 
Richard:

Believe it or not, but your recirculating toilet may be more valuable than
you realize. After replacing mine, I had three people wanting it as a
result of a BB flyer I posted at the GMCMI Convention. You can practically
name your price with that kind of demand.

The one who eventually bought it came all the way from Mississippi to
Michigan for it and paid me to boot.

Due to its bulkiness, I wasn't very thrilled about transporting it in the
coach somewhere.

>From those interested in mine, I determined that they did a lot of dry
camping and wanted a recirculating type due to lack of available water. I'm
also told that a new recirculating type costs ~ $400.

Paul Bartz

From: Richard Waters [mailto:digitek]
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 1999 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: GMC: That smell is back! LONG WINDED!

Well I had a nice conversation with Max at Buskrik/Rush RV about
my problems. After talking to him and reading all the responses
to my plight, I think I'm going to get a new toilet. The recirculating
toilet, if in top condition, may be a good deal. In my case however,
it may be part of the "odor problem." My wife has never liked the
concept of using someone else's 23 year old toilet, plus one that
recirculates the sewage when it flushes.

Anyone have a toilet to recommend? One that my wife will approve of.
I'm hoping it will be an easy swap. Anyone want a used toilet cheap?

By the way, talking to Max was like talking to Jim Bounds. He's full of
information pertaining to our motorhomes. Another great resource.

> Unfortunately I can't say what is wrong with your system, but I
> recently replaced the electro-slop jar with the aurora and can offer a
> little insight maybe. Replacement/removal is very easy to do. There is
no
> wax ring, but a rubber gasket. Otherwise, there is the mounting
ring/flange.
> The original rubber ring was not centered propperly, may not be on yours
> causing intermitent loss of seal? The flange looks like its bolted and
> sealed to the floor and extends down into the holding tank about 6-7".
> Also, on the rot issue, be sure the flange to module area is packed with
> plumbers putty so that water from showers, etc does not leak beneath the
> module and do damage to the wooden subfloor. My electro had a tiny leak in
> its tank that was obvious once I had it out. Luckily, replaced it before
I
> ever used it. Hope this helps. walter bright, 76GB.
 
Gang

When I used the recirculating toilet chemicals that came with the coach, the
odor problem went away. I like it.

Wayne Newland F9300 75 Palm Beach

> Richard:
>
> Believe it or not, but your recirculating toilet may be more valuable than
> you realize. After replacing mine, I had three people wanting it as a
> result of a BB flyer I posted at the GMCMI Convention. You can practically
> name your price with that kind of demand.
>
> The one who eventually bought it came all the way from Mississippi to
> Michigan for it and paid me to boot.
>
> Due to its bulkiness, I wasn't very thrilled about transporting it in the
> coach somewhere.
>
> >From those interested in mine, I determined that they did a lot of dry
> camping and wanted a recirculating type due to lack of available water. I'm
> also told that a new recirculating type costs ~ $400.
>
> Paul Bartz
>
> From: Richard Waters [mailto:digitek]
> Sent: Thursday, July 22, 1999 12:36 AM
> Subject: Re: GMC: That smell is back! LONG WINDED!
>
> Well I had a nice conversation with Max at Buskrik/Rush RV about
> my problems. After talking to him and reading all the responses
> to my plight, I think I'm going to get a new toilet. The recirculating
> toilet, if in top condition, may be a good deal. In my case however,
> it may be part of the "odor problem." My wife has never liked the
> concept of using someone else's 23 year old toilet, plus one that
> recirculates the sewage when it flushes.
>
> Anyone have a toilet to recommend? One that my wife will approve of.
> I'm hoping it will be an easy swap. Anyone want a used toilet cheap?
>
> By the way, talking to Max was like talking to Jim Bounds. He's full of
> information pertaining to our motorhomes. Another great resource.
>

>
> > Unfortunately I can't say what is wrong with your system, but I
> > recently replaced the electro-slop jar with the aurora and can offer a
> > little insight maybe. Replacement/removal is very easy to do. There is
> no
> > wax ring, but a rubber gasket. Otherwise, there is the mounting
> ring/flange.
> > The original rubber ring was not centered propperly, may not be on yours
> > causing intermitent loss of seal? The flange looks like its bolted and
> > sealed to the floor and extends down into the holding tank about 6-7".
> > Also, on the rot issue, be sure the flange to module area is packed with
> > plumbers putty so that water from showers, etc does not leak beneath the
> > module and do damage to the wooden subfloor. My electro had a tiny leak in
> > its tank that was obvious once I had it out. Luckily, replaced it before
> I
> > ever used it. Hope this helps. walter bright, 76GB.
 
Paul,
And I was going to put in out for the trash! Guess I better hold on
to it after all.

> Believe it or not, but your recirculating toilet may be more valuable than
> you realize. After replacing mine, I had three people wanting it as a
> result of a BB flyer I posted at the GMCMI Convention. You can practically
> name your price with that kind of demand.
>
> The one who eventually bought it came all the way from Mississippi to
> Michigan for it and paid me to boot.

He came all the way to Michigan just to get your old toilet?

>
>
> Due to its bulkiness, I wasn't very thrilled about transporting it in the
> coach somewhere.

I wouldn't want to do that either!

Richard

>
>
> >
 
Well I tackled the toilet job last night. I took out the old
electric slop bucket (I know it was a good idea and still
is for some people, but not my wife). Getting it out was real
easy for a change!

Somehow I knew something was going was going to not be
easy. It always is with the GMC!

Getting the new (Auroa with the porcelain bowl) inserted on
the flange bolts was pretty tricky. It was not as easy as the
instruction card would have you to believe. I still have the
water to hookup. That's going to be interesting because there
is very little room back there. So I'm off to Home Depot to
get some plumbing stuff to hook up the water.

Compared to the stuff I've been doing to replace the
headliner, the toilet R&R has been very easy.

The new toilet sure looks a lot better then the old one. My wife
might even use it now.

Richard Waters '76 PB

> When I am renovating a coach, it is cheaper to install a new toilt than
> paying me to clean and scrub the &%#@* off of the other one to make it look
> good. You cannot imagine how touch that stuff is to dislodge and how badly
> it staines plastic. Besides the elbow length rubber gloves and gas mask
> are hard to work with!!!
>
>
> >>
> >> Unfortunately I can't say what is wrong with your system, but I
> >> recently replaced the electro-slop jar with the aurora and can offer a
> >> little insight maybe. Replacement/removal is very easy to do. There is no
> >> wax ring, but a rubber gasket.
> >
 
Gene,
The new toilet is now installed and working. I think the total
time to R&R the unit (not including time spent going to Home
Depot for a water line) was less then an hour! Not bad for
something that makes such a dramatic improvement to my GMC.

At least I've done something right during this renovation. The
new toilet looks pretty good. Almost like one you would
expect to find in a home. The porcelain sure seems better then
plastic!
Richard

> -- [ From: Eugene Fisher * EMC.Ver #2.5.3 ] --
>
> I have this one and there is huge difference in the cleanup and
> operation. The old one was yellow from the start and would not seal.
>
> Good choice
> gene
>
> --Well I tackled the toilet job last night. I took out the old electric
> slop bucket (I know it was a good idea and still is for some people, but
> not my wife). Getting it out was real easy for a change!
>
> Getting the new (Auroa with the porcelain bowl) inserted on the flange
> bolts was pretty tricky. It was not as easy as the instruction card
> would have you to believe. I still have the water to hookup. That's
> going to be interesting because there is very little room back there.
> So I'm off to Home Depot to get some plumbing stuff to hook up the water.
 
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