Call to All:
This was not a good weekend road trip to Prescott for the "Green Worm."
First, I didn't get two miles from the house before a Blazer hit me in the
side; the damage is minor but I need materials engineering assistance. Next,
I got about halfway between Phoenix and Prescott and I rear tire separated
and tore up the wheel box; I need some fiberglass assistance.
Materials Engineering: I know the aluminum sheet is .062 thk, aerospace
quality, and can be TIG welded. Does anyone know what grade; e.g., T-6061.
I'd also like to get confirmation on my proposed method of repair.
Location: The location of the 6 - 8 inch tear is at the same water line as
the stripe, and about 28 inches behind the fuel intake box. Until I get a
chance to remove the bunk bed and panel, I can only assume no ribs were
damaged. It appears from the outside that the impact just went in like a can
opener.
Proposed method of repair: From inside the coach, flatten the aluminum sheet
and attempt to align the cut seams and set the contour. Next, from the
inside, tack weld (TIG) a backing plate the covers the damaged area. From
the outside, TIG weld the seams shut. The backing plate should not only give
the area support but will provide material for the weld to bond to. Grind
the welds and finish smooth.
Fiberglass wheel box (driver side). From what I understand a lot of GMCers
have experienced a blowout and have had to repair the wheel box. The damage
is pretty extensive, basically the tread blew away the entire front portion
of the wheel box (9 inches wide by 18 inches vertical). I've been told this
is common, has anyone built a plaster or wooden mold of the wheel box from
the top curvature down to where the box bolts to the floor? The parts manual
shows that a single wheel box is used for both driver and passenger sides.
Therefore the mold would be the same as the passenger side, rear portion of
the wheel box.
Assuming, no one has built a mold, does anyone know where I can purchase a
product that would allow me to make a mold of the passenger rear portion;
e.g., modelers clay. I can then build a form for laying-up the fiberglass. I
know gravity will be working against me, but I'm out of ideas.
I saw Bebe in Prescott on Saturday. Purchased one of his bottle jack support
brackets that fit under the rear boggie. I still need to acquire a 1/4 inch
piece of steel to fit between the boggie and torsion arms, but I can see
where I'll never need to carry a floor jack to raise the rear of the coach.
Great idea and a great weight saver!
In advance, I appreciate and thank anyone's input on either the aluminum
material and fiberglass repair.
Mike & Dolores' 77 Palm Beach michael.andrews
This was not a good weekend road trip to Prescott for the "Green Worm."
First, I didn't get two miles from the house before a Blazer hit me in the
side; the damage is minor but I need materials engineering assistance. Next,
I got about halfway between Phoenix and Prescott and I rear tire separated
and tore up the wheel box; I need some fiberglass assistance.
Materials Engineering: I know the aluminum sheet is .062 thk, aerospace
quality, and can be TIG welded. Does anyone know what grade; e.g., T-6061.
I'd also like to get confirmation on my proposed method of repair.
Location: The location of the 6 - 8 inch tear is at the same water line as
the stripe, and about 28 inches behind the fuel intake box. Until I get a
chance to remove the bunk bed and panel, I can only assume no ribs were
damaged. It appears from the outside that the impact just went in like a can
opener.
Proposed method of repair: From inside the coach, flatten the aluminum sheet
and attempt to align the cut seams and set the contour. Next, from the
inside, tack weld (TIG) a backing plate the covers the damaged area. From
the outside, TIG weld the seams shut. The backing plate should not only give
the area support but will provide material for the weld to bond to. Grind
the welds and finish smooth.
Fiberglass wheel box (driver side). From what I understand a lot of GMCers
have experienced a blowout and have had to repair the wheel box. The damage
is pretty extensive, basically the tread blew away the entire front portion
of the wheel box (9 inches wide by 18 inches vertical). I've been told this
is common, has anyone built a plaster or wooden mold of the wheel box from
the top curvature down to where the box bolts to the floor? The parts manual
shows that a single wheel box is used for both driver and passenger sides.
Therefore the mold would be the same as the passenger side, rear portion of
the wheel box.
Assuming, no one has built a mold, does anyone know where I can purchase a
product that would allow me to make a mold of the passenger rear portion;
e.g., modelers clay. I can then build a form for laying-up the fiberglass. I
know gravity will be working against me, but I'm out of ideas.
I saw Bebe in Prescott on Saturday. Purchased one of his bottle jack support
brackets that fit under the rear boggie. I still need to acquire a 1/4 inch
piece of steel to fit between the boggie and torsion arms, but I can see
where I'll never need to carry a floor jack to raise the rear of the coach.
Great idea and a great weight saver!
In advance, I appreciate and thank anyone's input on either the aluminum
material and fiberglass repair.
Mike & Dolores' 77 Palm Beach michael.andrews
atrick
wner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Andrews,
