Be VERY careful when using an electric heater in the coaches, the wiring can be damaged by using heavy loads. You can use the 750 watt size electric heater, no problem.
>
>
> Ah you seem to have a couple of interesting concerns.
>
> First, the tankless water heaters will build up mineral deposits over use. Using park water that may be highly mineralized, would speed that process
> up. The fix is you have to periodically use a chemical to remove or disolve the minerals from inside you tankless water heater. THE PROBLEM IS, the
> minerals in the water will flow into the tankless water heaters tubes and are attracted to the heat. with each use, the mineral build up continues.
> over time you will see less performance from the water heater because the minerals will insulate the water from the heat.
>
> First thing to remember is most RV furnaces are ineffecient. I read an article where there were complaints about the fan never shutting down while in
> a heating cycle. This generally happens because the air flow is restricted so the temperature in the coach never gets to a point where the heater
> can shut down and the fan can time off.
>
> There are different senarios to this problem but, I read somewhere, I believe it was here on GMCnet, that the air flow restriction is in the heaters
> plenum. or where the heated air goes before it is routed through the coach ducting. Most cases the duct is small and the routing requires the air to
> make a 90 degree turn before forced out through the ducts and into the coach.
>
> One fellow mentioned a fix was to remove the cover to that plenum where the hot air would blow straight out from the plenum into the room. The room
> would warm up, the thermostat would shut down, the fan would time out and shut down until heat is called for again.
>
> The fan uses a good amount of power, and running all night will use all the power in your battery. The fan must have down time to help conserve the
> battery power.
>
>
> Many won't use the furnace for that reason. It can be a real watt buster and will stop working when you need it.
>
> The alternative is to get a propane ventless heater. Many like them, some do not, it is the users decision if this is good for you.
>
> The operation of using a propane ventless heater is always have ventilation, a window cracked open to allow fresh air in. Also have a Carbon monoxide
> alarm working.
> These heaters come with thermostats and CO cut offs if the carbon monoxide level should get too hi, but learn proper use and how to safely use them.
>
> The amount of Propane used is less than that of the normal coach furnace because residual heat is not expelled out the exhaust vent.
>
> If you are only a Camp Ground camper, pick up a nice safe electric heater and use it when you are parked and plugged in to park power. Very safe and
> works well.
>
> My old RV had a heater in the roof Air Con unit. It is said to be just for chasing the chill in the rv. I spent the night in a campground when the
> temp outside got down to about 32 degrees. That roof AC heater kept the coach warm, around 70 degrees. I actually added a thermostat to that heater
> because it could actually get too warm inside.
>
> slc
>
> --
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> 74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
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