T-tap connectors

[LarryW]

So...where have I been? I bought a car and have been tearing out a lot of excess wiring that a PO put in for anti-theft, sound and other stuff. In
the process I discovered "T-Taps". Never seen them before, but made uninstalling all of the not needed wiring quite easy.

Check this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikZZBmvFEho

These have probably been around for years, but the first time I've seen them and thought maybe others haven't either. Just seems easier to use than
other methods we've used to "T" into a wire. JFWIW
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

 

[adolph santorine]

Larry:

So now you have the right connections (ok, it’s a bad pun…. )

Dolph

DE AD0LF

Wheeling, West Virginia

1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
Howell EFI & EBL, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission

“The Aluminum and Fiberglass Mistress"

>
> So...where have I been? I bought a car and have been tearing out a lot of excess wiring that a PO put in for anti-theft, sound and other stuff. In
> the process I discovered "T-Taps". Never seen them before, but made uninstalling all of the not needed wiring quite easy.
>
> Check this:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikZZBmvFEho
>
> These have probably been around for years, but the first time I've seen them and thought maybe others haven't either. Just seems easier to use than
> other methods we've used to "T" into a wire. JFWIW
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[jim wagner]

Larry you are right they have been around for years. I used them but stopped when I had some come loose under the dash. Very hard time finding the
problem. You have to be very careful to get the wires in just right or you will get a poor connection. I might try using them again and see how I
do.

Jim Wagner
Brook Park, oh

1976 GMC500
1969 Vette 383
1971 Vega355

So...where have I been? I bought a car and have been tearing out a lot of excess wiring that a PO put in for anti-theft, sound and other stuff. In the
process I discovered "T-Taps". Never seen them before, but made uninstalling all of the not needed wiring quite easy.

 

[LarryW]

> Larry you are right they have been around for years. I used them but stopped when I had some come loose under the dash. Very hard time finding the
> problem. You have to be very careful to get the wires in just right or you will get a poor connection. I might try using them again and see how I
> do.
>
> Jim Wagner
> Brook Park, oh
>
> 1976 GMC500
> 1969 Vette 383
> 1971 Vega355
>
>
> So...where have I been? I bought a car and have been tearing out a lot of excess wiring that a PO put in for anti-theft, sound and other stuff. In
> the process I discovered "T-Taps". Never seen them before, but made uninstalling all of the not needed wiring quite easy.

Jim, haven't seen or heard from you for a while. Hope to see you at the Mansfield Ohio rally?
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

 

[Ken H.]

I've seen & hated those clamp-on splice connectors for many years now. You
couldn't get me to use the abominable things on a bet! They work by
cutting insulation; and, deforming and/or cutting the wires. The
convenience can never, IMHO, justify the damage potential.

Not that I'd suggest no one else use them (just don't try to pass the
results on to me).

Ken H.

On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 1:21 PM Jim Wagner via Gmclist <

> Larry you are right they have been around for years. I used them but
> stopped when I had some come loose under the dash. Very hard time finding
> the
> problem. You have to be very careful to get the wires in just right or you
> will get a poor connection. I might try using them again and see how I
> do.
>
> Jim Wagner
> Brook Park, oh
>
> 1976 GMC500
> 1969 Vette 383
> 1971 Vega355
>
>
> So...where have I been? I bought a car and have been tearing out a lot of
> excess wiring that a PO put in for anti-theft, sound and other stuff. In the
> process I discovered "T-Taps". Never seen them before, but made
> uninstalling all of the not needed wiring quite easy.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[Matt Colie]

> So...where have I been? I bought a car and have been tearing out a lot of excess wiring that a PO put in for anti-theft, sound and other stuff.
> In the process I discovered "T-Taps". Never seen them before, but made uninstalling all of the not needed wiring quite easy.
>
> Check this:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikZZBmvFEho
>
> These have probably been around for years, but the first time I've seen them and thought maybe others haven't either. Just seems easier to use
> than other methods we've used to "T" into a wire. JFWIW

Those are one of the reasons I do notwork on powerboats. If I get in and find either those of "ScotchLoks", the owner would be advised that the quote
was void and there would be no guaranty past "It worked when I left".
There are enough unreliable things out there already.
Those things and any IDC (Insulation Displacement Connections) are great for places that are never even damp and do not vibrate.
I'll kick the crate aside now and get down.....

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[emerystora]

I do not recommend using them and I also do not recommend using the Scotch connectors that snap onto a wire. They both are susceptible to getting loose or getting corrosion in a damp environment and having the connection fail.
You are much better off baring the wire and twisting and soldering another wire to it.

Emery Stora

>
> Larry you are right they have been around for years. I used them but stopped when I had some come loose under the dash. Very hard time finding the
> problem. You have to be very careful to get the wires in just right or you will get a poor connection. I might try using them again and see how I
> do.
>
> Jim Wagner
> Brook Park, oh
>
> 1976 GMC500
> 1969 Vette 383
> 1971 Vega355
>
>
> So...where have I been? I bought a car and have been tearing out a lot of excess wiring that a PO put in for anti-theft, sound and other stuff. In the
> process I discovered "T-Taps". Never seen them before, but made uninstalling all of the not needed wiring quite easy.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[Keith V]

Crimping is better and faster than soldering with no flux sitting there corroding things
Then heat shrink and away you go
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Emery Stora via Gmclist
Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 12:49 PM
To: gmclist
Cc: Emery Stora
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] T-tap connectors

I do not recommend using them and I also do not recommend using the Scotch connectors that snap onto a wire. They both are susceptible to getting loose or getting corrosion in a damp environment and having the connection fail.
You are much better off baring the wire and twisting and soldering another wire to it.

Emery Stora

>
> Larry you are right they have been around for years. I used them but stopped when I had some come loose under the dash. Very hard time finding the
> problem. You have to be very careful to get the wires in just right or you will get a poor connection. I might try using them again and see how I
> do.
>
> Jim Wagner
> Brook Park, oh
>
> 1976 GMC500
> 1969 Vette 383
> 1971 Vega355
>
>
> So...where have I been? I bought a car and have been tearing out a lot of excess wiring that a PO put in for anti-theft, sound and other stuff. In the
> process I discovered "T-Taps". Never seen them before, but made uninstalling all of the not needed wiring quite easy.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[Jim Hupy]

I learned how to solder stuff by building vacuum tube superhet radio
transmitters and receivers. Walter Asche, a midwest company used to
assemble all the parts from military surplus and put together kits that
included all that was needed to brew your own amateur radio sets. You sent
in your money and waited for parcel post to deliver boxes full of dreams of
late night listening for faint signals from around the world if
atmospherics were favorable. Then, reality set in. All those resin circuit
boards, tube sockets, surplus transformers, coils, components, trimmers,
etc. All had to be super cleaned and fluxed with resin fluxes then lightly
tinned, and finally soldered with eutectic resin core solder, and finally
cleaned with denatured alcohol and cotton swabs. All the loose ends had to
be trimmed and straightened and properly secured and routed away from
magnetic fields. If you screwed up and "cold soldered" any connections, you
had to fix those. I know how to solder wires. They are very reliable. I
have had many crimped connections fail. You do what you feel comfortable
using. Me, I solder and shrink wrap.
Jim Hupy

On Wed, May 1, 2019, 10:53 AM Keith V via Gmclist
wrote:

> Crimping is better and faster than soldering with no flux sitting there
> corroding things
> Then heat shrink and away you go
> ________________________________
> From: Gmclist on behalf of Emery Stora
> via Gmclist
> Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 12:49 PM
> To: gmclist
> Cc: Emery Stora
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] T-tap connectors
>
> I do not recommend using them and I also do not recommend using the Scotch
> connectors that snap onto a wire. They both are susceptible to getting
> loose or getting corrosion in a damp environment and having the connection
> fail.
> You are much better off baring the wire and twisting and soldering another
> wire to it.
>
> Emery Stora
>
> > On May 1, 2019, at 11:05 AM, Jim Wagner via Gmclist <

> >
> > Larry you are right they have been around for years. I used them but
> stopped when I had some come loose under the dash. Very hard time finding
> the
> > problem. You have to be very careful to get the wires in just right or
> you will get a poor connection. I might try using them again and see how I
> > do.
> >
> > Jim Wagner
> > Brook Park, oh
> >
> > 1976 GMC500
> > 1969 Vette 383
> > 1971 Vega355
> >
> >
> > So...where have I been? I bought a car and have been tearing out a lot
> of excess wiring that a PO put in for anti-theft, sound and other stuff. In
> the
> > process I discovered "T-Taps". Never seen them before, but made
> uninstalling all of the not needed wiring quite easy.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[LarryW]

Yup, I get what all of you are saying about these crimp type connectors. Almost all of the connections I have made in the past have been...bare the
wire, solder and heat shrink. But right now I'm looking straight up at some wiring under the dash of a Honda Civic. I just want to install a defeat
switch that will allow me to flip the switch and turn the engine over with it in gear (standard transmission) so that I can move the car, should it
get caught in a intersection or on a RR tracks, and car won't start. In order to get at the wires that I need to alter, I have to take the front seat
out, take the inspection cover off, lay on my back, and slide my head up against the pedals just to see them. Getting a stripper, solder, and
soldering iron, much less my hands in there, is ..... well, at 73, my body just won't do that. This is a noncritical modification (unless I'm on a RR
tracks) that I've done to every standard trans car I've owned. Once when the last car I had wouldn't start, because of a bad distributor, I flipped
the switch and used the starter to roll the car into the garage. These little "T-taps" could be just what I'm looking for in this noncritical
situation. Just my relatively informed, off the cuff, back yard mechanic, gut level, eyeball it up and guestimate, opinion....that's all...
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

 

[LQQKatJon]

you see those in the "car starter" install world. I have installed a dozen car starters in the past, and it is the worst on your back working under
the dash of vehicles trying to find the wires to tap into. I usually razor blade off the wire, and solder in the T tap. crimps and heat shrink on
wires that are not a T. My wife's last car I finally broke down and figured my time, neck and back were worth more then then $300 install of the car
starter. I see they used T-taps on some of the connections and 5 or 6 years later and 100k+ miles it still remote starts up just fine.

my other item, that makes a good connection if you can razor off enough wire to bend it over, and crimp another wire in our the typical car stereo
crimps:
https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector-100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=car+stereo+butt+splice+connectors&qid=1556739805&s=automotive&sr=1-12

--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/

 

[Keith V]

I am.. er ok, was, Mil spec certified for soldering, hand wave and reflow, it's not a lack of skill, or what I feel comfortable with.
It's statistics.
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of James Hupy via Gmclist
Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 1:43 PM
To: gmclist
Cc: James Hupy
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] T-tap connectors

I learned how to solder stuff by building vacuum tube superhet radio
transmitters and receivers. Walter Asche, a midwest company used to
assemble all the parts from military surplus and put together kits that
included all that was needed to brew your own amateur radio sets. You sent
in your money and waited for parcel post to deliver boxes full of dreams of
late night listening for faint signals from around the world if
atmospherics were favorable. Then, reality set in. All those resin circuit
boards, tube sockets, surplus transformers, coils, components, trimmers,
etc. All had to be super cleaned and fluxed with resin fluxes then lightly
tinned, and finally soldered with eutectic resin core solder, and finally
cleaned with denatured alcohol and cotton swabs. All the loose ends had to
be trimmed and straightened and properly secured and routed away from
magnetic fields. If you screwed up and "cold soldered" any connections, you
had to fix those. I know how to solder wires. They are very reliable. I
have had many crimped connections fail. You do what you feel comfortable
using. Me, I solder and shrink wrap.
Jim Hupy

On Wed, May 1, 2019, 10:53 AM Keith V via Gmclist
wrote:

> Crimping is better and faster than soldering with no flux sitting there
> corroding things
> Then heat shrink and away you go
> ________________________________
> From: Gmclist on behalf of Emery Stora
> via Gmclist
> Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 12:49 PM
> To: gmclist
> Cc: Emery Stora
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] T-tap connectors
>
> I do not recommend using them and I also do not recommend using the Scotch
> connectors that snap onto a wire. They both are susceptible to getting
> loose or getting corrosion in a damp environment and having the connection
> fail.
> You are much better off baring the wire and twisting and soldering another
> wire to it.
>
> Emery Stora
>
> > On May 1, 2019, at 11:05 AM, Jim Wagner via Gmclist <

> >
> > Larry you are right they have been around for years. I used them but
> stopped when I had some come loose under the dash. Very hard time finding
> the
> > problem. You have to be very careful to get the wires in just right or
> you will get a poor connection. I might try using them again and see how I
> > do.
> >
> > Jim Wagner
> > Brook Park, oh
> >
> > 1976 GMC500
> > 1969 Vette 383
> > 1971 Vega355
> >
> >
> > So...where have I been? I bought a car and have been tearing out a lot
> of excess wiring that a PO put in for anti-theft, sound and other stuff. In
> the
> > process I discovered "T-Taps". Never seen them before, but made
> uninstalling all of the not needed wiring quite easy.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[d c *mac* macdonald]

My first Novice ham station was the Walter Ashe three-kit outfit for just under $50. One tube (6SN7GT dual triode) regenerative receiver, two-tube crystal controlled 25 Watt (input, maybe) transmitter, and power supply. I built it all on mom's kitchen table with a small non-electric soldering "copper" that I had to heat in the gas stove burner, one joint at a time. Somehow, it actually worked! What a thrill!

Corrosive acid core solder is for PLUMBING, not electronics!

D C "Mac" Macdonald​
Amateur Radio K2GKK​
Since 30 November '53​
USAF and FAA, Retired​
Member GMCMI & Classics​
Oklahoma City, OK​
"The Money Pit"​
TZE166V101966

________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of James Hupy via Gmclist
Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 13:43
To: gmclist
Cc: James Hupy
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] T-tap connectors

I learned how to solder stuff by building vacuum tube superhet radio
transmitters and receivers. Walter Ashe, a midwest company used to
assemble all the parts from military surplus and put together kits that
included all that was needed to brew your own amateur radio sets. You sent
in your money and waited for parcel post to deliver boxes full of dreams of
late night listening for faint signals from around the world if
atmospherics were favorable. Then, reality set in. All those resin circuit
boards, tube sockets, surplus transformers, coils, components, trimmers,
etc. All had to be super cleaned and fluxed with resin fluxes then lightly
tinned, and finally soldered with eutectic resin core solder, and finally
cleaned with denatured alcohol and cotton swabs. All the loose ends had to
be trimmed and straightened and properly secured and routed away from
magnetic fields. If you screwed up and "cold soldered" any connections, you
had to fix those. I know how to solder wires. They are very reliable. I
have had many crimped connections fail. You do what you feel comfortable
using. Me, I solder and shrink wrap.
Jim Hupy

On Wed, May 1, 2019, 10:53 AM Keith V via Gmclist
wrote:

> Crimping is better and faster than soldering with no flux sitting there
> corroding things
> Then heat shrink and away you go
> ________________________________
> From: Gmclist on behalf of Emery Stora
> via Gmclist
> Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 12:49 PM
> To: gmclist
> Cc: Emery Stora
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] T-tap connectors
>
> I do not recommend using them and I also do not recommend using the Scotch
> connectors that snap onto a wire. They both are susceptible to getting
> loose or getting corrosion in a damp environment and having the connection
> fail.
> You are much better off baring the wire and twisting and soldering another
> wire to it.
>
> Emery Stora

 

[jim kanomata1]

Larry,
Lot of shops do not like to use those connectors as they can weaken the
wire and they can break and also corroid and loose conductivity.
Easy and to use, but not the long term use.

On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 1:41 PM D C _Mac_ Macdonald via Gmclist <

> My first Novice ham station was the Walter Ashe three-kit outfit for just
> under $50. One tube (6SN7GT dual triode) regenerative receiver, two-tube
> crystal controlled 25 Watt (input, maybe) transmitter, and power supply. I
> built it all on mom's kitchen table with a small non-electric soldering
> "copper" that I had to heat in the gas stove burner, one joint at a time.
> Somehow, it actually worked! What a thrill!
>
> Corrosive acid core solder is for PLUMBING, not electronics!
>
> D C "Mac" Macdonald​
> Amateur Radio K2GKK​
> Since 30 November '53​
> USAF and FAA, Retired​
> Member GMCMI & Classics​
> Oklahoma City, OK​
> "The Money Pit"​
> TZE166V101966
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Gmclist on behalf of James Hupy
> via Gmclist
> Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 13:43
> To: gmclist
> Cc: James Hupy
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] T-tap connectors
>
> I learned how to solder stuff by building vacuum tube superhet radio
> transmitters and receivers. Walter Ashe, a midwest company used to
> assemble all the parts from military surplus and put together kits that
> included all that was needed to brew your own amateur radio sets. You sent
> in your money and waited for parcel post to deliver boxes full of dreams of
> late night listening for faint signals from around the world if
> atmospherics were favorable. Then, reality set in. All those resin circuit
> boards, tube sockets, surplus transformers, coils, components, trimmers,
> etc. All had to be super cleaned and fluxed with resin fluxes then lightly
> tinned, and finally soldered with eutectic resin core solder, and finally
> cleaned with denatured alcohol and cotton swabs. All the loose ends had to
> be trimmed and straightened and properly secured and routed away from
> magnetic fields. If you screwed up and "cold soldered" any connections, you
> had to fix those. I know how to solder wires. They are very reliable. I
> have had many crimped connections fail. You do what you feel comfortable
> using. Me, I solder and shrink wrap.
> Jim Hupy
>
> On Wed, May 1, 2019, 10:53 AM Keith V via Gmclist >

>
> > Crimping is better and faster than soldering with no flux sitting there
> > corroding things
> > Then heat shrink and away you go
> > ________________________________
> > From: Gmclist on behalf of Emery Stora
> > via Gmclist
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 12:49 PM
> > To: gmclist
> > Cc: Emery Stora
> > Subject: Re: [GMCnet] T-tap connectors
> >
> > I do not recommend using them and I also do not recommend using the
> Scotch
> > connectors that snap onto a wire. They both are susceptible to getting
> > loose or getting corrosion in a damp environment and having the
> connection
> > fail.
> > You are much better off baring the wire and twisting and soldering
> another
> > wire to it.
> >
> > Emery Stora
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

 

[johnny]

Those connectors have about the same value as the battery post connectors that clamp onto a stripprd cable: They'll get you home. At whic point
please discard them and make a proper connection: solder and heat shrink. And if it's exposed, use the heat shrink with glue inside.

==johnny

--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell

 

[jim kanomata1]

If one is not careful, at the end of the solder the wire flexes there and
will brake. So oe need to tape farther out to cause flexing away from the
soldered section.

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 5:51 AM Johnny Bridges via Gmclist <

> Those connectors have about the same value as the battery post connectors
> that clamp onto a stripprd cable: They'll get you home. At whic point
> please discard them and make a proper connection: solder and heat
> shrink. And if it's exposed, use the heat shrink with glue inside.
>
> ==johnny
>
> --
> Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

 

[RJW]

> > ... In the process I discovered "T-Taps". Never seen them before, but made uninstalling all of the not needed wiring quite easy.
> > These have probably been around for years, but the first time I've seen them and thought maybe others haven't either. Just seems easier to use
> > than other methods we've used to "T" into a wire. JFWIW
>
> Those are one of the reasons I do notwork on powerboats. If I get in and find either those of "ScotchLoks", the owner would be advised that the
> quote was void and there would be no guaranty past "It worked when I left".
> There are enough unreliable things out there already.
> Those things and any IDC (Insulation Displacement Connections) are great for places that are never even damp and do not vibrate.
> I'll kick the crate aside now and get down.....
>
> Matt


I've been using DB9 and DB25 (AMP Brand) IDC connectors for probably 20 years in my business working with CNC machines. They are exposed to all sorts
of vibration, oil, coolants etc. inside and outside of the machines. I've never had one fail. Granted they are in a die cast cover which gives them
protection.

They are getting to be very expensive and harder to source but it sure beats soldering or crimping individual pins.
--
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com


Coop Roller Cam 455, Howell TBI + EBL, 3.42 FD, Quadra Bag, Macerator, Lenzi stuff, Manny Tranny etc.

 

[sgltrac]

Those “t tap” type connectors are super commonly used in many aftermarket
electrical additions. Mostly for hitch wiring. We see them fairly often on
cars we are dismantling for repairs. We try to avoid tampering with them as
there typically is no wire color coordination with the wires being tapped
into so it makes for interesting times to reassemble if separated.

Sully
Bellevue wa

On Mon, May 6, 2019 at 7:37 AM RJW via Gmclist
wrote:

> > > ... In the process I discovered "T-Taps". Never seen them before, but
> made uninstalling all of the not needed wiring quite easy.
> > > These have probably been around for years, but the first time I've
> seen them and thought maybe others haven't either. Just seems easier to use
> > > than other methods we've used to "T" into a wire. JFWIW
> >
> > Those are one of the reasons I do notwork on powerboats. If I get in
> and find either those of "ScotchLoks", the owner would be advised that the
> > quote was void and there would be no guaranty past "It worked when I
> left".
> > There are enough unreliable things out there already.
> > Those things and any IDC (Insulation Displacement Connections) are great
> for places that are never even damp and do not vibrate.
> > I'll kick the crate aside now and get down.....
> >
> > Matt
>
>
> I've been using DB9 and DB25 (AMP Brand) IDC connectors for probably 20
> years in my business working with CNC machines. They are exposed to all
> sorts
> of vibration, oil, coolants etc. inside and outside of the machines. I've
> never had one fail. Granted they are in a die cast cover which gives them
> protection.
>
> They are getting to be very expensive and harder to source but it sure
> beats soldering or crimping individual pins.
> --
> Richard
> 76 Palm Beach
> SE Michigan
> www.PalmBeachGMC.com
>
>
> Coop Roller Cam 455, Howell TBI + EBL, 3.42 FD, Quadra Bag, Macerator,
> Lenzi stuff, Manny Tranny etc.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[Jim Hupy]

It really is kind of a no brainer as to why those things exist. They are
expedient. They do allow for quick modification of circuits without
disturbing much. TECH TIME IS EXPENSIVE, AND THEY ARE OFTEN BACKLOGGED WITH
SERVICE CALLS, and often use short cut measures that will successfully do
the repair, and get them out the door and on to the next service call
quickly. I get all that. I have snap lid plastic boxes full of all manner
of those things. WHEN THEY ARE APPROPRIATE, I USE THEM MYSELF. But I am
constantly reminding myself of electrical failures, and know from my
training and years of experience that a full 95% of electrical failures are
"conductor related". That is wires and connections, not the devices that
the wires are connected to. Some of these failures can and do result in
electrical call backs and in extreme cases result in fires. Fire and RV
should not be discussed in the same sentences.
Do the most trouble free, safe repairs you can, and do it ONE TIME.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Mon, May 6, 2019, 7:37 AM RJW via Gmclist
wrote:

> > > ... In the process I discovered "T-Taps". Never seen them before, but
> made uninstalling all of the not needed wiring quite easy.
> > > These have probably been around for years, but the first time I've
> seen them and thought maybe others haven't either. Just seems easier to use
> > > than other methods we've used to "T" into a wire. JFWIW
> >
> > Those are one of the reasons I do notwork on powerboats. If I get in
> and find either those of "ScotchLoks", the owner would be advised that the
> > quote was void and there would be no guaranty past "It worked when I
> left".
> > There are enough unreliable things out there already.
> > Those things and any IDC (Insulation Displacement Connections) are great
> for places that are never even damp and do not vibrate.
> > I'll kick the crate aside now and get down.....
> >
> > Matt
>
>
> I've been using DB9 and DB25 (AMP Brand) IDC connectors for probably 20
> years in my business working with CNC machines. They are exposed to all
> sorts
> of vibration, oil, coolants etc. inside and outside of the machines. I've
> never had one fail. Granted they are in a die cast cover which gives them
> protection.
>
> They are getting to be very expensive and harder to source but it sure
> beats soldering or crimping individual pins.
> --
> Richard
> 76 Palm Beach
> SE Michigan
> www.PalmBeachGMC.com
>
>
> Coop Roller Cam 455, Howell TBI + EBL, 3.42 FD, Quadra Bag, Macerator,
> Lenzi stuff, Manny Tranny etc.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[john r. lebetski]

My tandem Dexter axle electric trailer brakes are all done with those and they all fail exposed to road splash. I re did them with fresh Scotch loks
and gooped them with Goop sealant We shall see how many wheels are working this year. They might work in dry environments but do weaken the host
wire
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II