Suburban furnace not starting,

Bob Dunahugh

New member
Sep 17, 2012
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I checked the thermostat, and related 2 wires. OK. Have good 12 V power. Ground good. First thought was that the control board was the problem. But. I believe that the thermostat turns on a relay. That then turns on the 12 V powers the control board. So I'm thinking that I need to send money to Jim at Applied. Jim will get me the correct part as usual. You SPARKIES think I got it correct? Bob Dunahugh
 
Bob, try to jumper out the sail switch. They are a problem lots of times. It might be you're not getting enough air flow to trip it or just a
bad/dirty switch.
Hal
--
1977 Royale 101348,

1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,

1975 Eleganza II, 101230,

1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout,

Rio Rancho, NM
 
If you have the original 'stat, connect the two wires together and see if it starts. Mine had corroded contacts and didn't close the circuit. If the
fan in the furnace come on but it never lights, Hal's cure gets about 80 percent of them. My (limited) experience is low air flow keeps the switch
from closing more often than a switch failure.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
So not getting any blower start? That happens before sail switch so not sail switch.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
More specifically, Is the blower running but no heat or ignition? Or is the blower not running at all? Assuming this is an NT30.

In my Royale, and in no particular order. If the blower is running and no heat, Do you have gas running all the way to the furnace? If my gas
has been turned off while driving, I need to call for heat a few times, before it will light. Same with the stove etc. It takes a few tries for the
gas to get all they way to the furnace. Next. Do you have the shut off valve open just before the furnace it self? Just checking. Mine is right
next to the entrance to the furnace itself, but yours may vary. Perhaps that got shut off accidentally as I know from experience.

Next, if the blower is running can you see if its sparking through the sight window on the furnace. May be a two person job, but when you take the
front cover off the furnace, the sight glass is there down low. You have to call for heat and quickly run up and see if you have some blue sparks
trying to light the burner. Its hard for one person to do that fast enough and the sparks are not like a spark plug which are easy to see. But no
sparks there would help narrow down the issue. When I was replacing the sight glass gasket I pulled the flame sensing electrode and ignitor and
cleaned it very gently with a bit with either 0000 steel wool or a dollar bill the way you would with a piece of sandpaper (cant remember which one),
but that helped the ignition as well. Similar to a house furnace over time that electrode can get buildup on it. Be careful not to touch it with
your bare skin as the oils on your hands are not good for it.

I think I also pulled the sail switch and blew some compressed air through what I could. may not have done much, but I was already in there with the
furnace on the work bench.

Lastly, I made sure I had a fully charged battery, or was plugged in and on shore power. If the sail switch is sticky or not getting enough air
passing through it, the furnace wont light.

Hope this helps.

--
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan
 
Don't rule out the gas valve mine would stick shut in cold temperatures but worked fine when it was warmer. Had to put a voltmeter on it to find it.
--
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
 
Mine took several tries the first time I needed it. Problem turned out to be no propane in the lines. Now, when I park and turn the gas on at the
tank, I light the stove (it uses a hand held sparker) and keep sparking till the gas gets up top it and it lights... this takes 20 seconds to a minute
to fill the pipes. Once there's gas to the stove, the furnace fires off. If the line has to fill, it will fault and lock out before it gets the
burner lit. Turn it off and back on and try again. Eventually it will light. Assuming the works are in good shape. Air flow switch (sail), gas
valve, and ignitor are the three places which keep it from lighting. I'm sure the circuit board fails in some, but I've never seen a failed board.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
Can't be an issue with the thermostat. As covered below. OHM's meter confirmed it. And can't be the sail switch. As the fan doesn't come on at all. The sail switch is what turns the gas valve on after the fan is up to speed. Bob Dunahugh 78 Royale

I checked the thermostat, and related 2 wires. OK. Have good 12 V power. Ground good. First thought was that the control board was the problem. But. I believe that the thermostat turns on a relay. That then turns on the 12 V powers the control board. So I'm thinking that I need to send money to Jim at Applied. Jim will get me the correct part as usual. You SPARKIES think I got it correct? Bob Dunahugh
 
And now that IO think of it, you can tell how far the furnace gets by listening closely to it. When the 'stat calls for heat, you get a CLICK out of
the furnace, and the blower spools up. As soon as there's airflow, you get another CLICK which is the gas valve opening and the igniter starts at the
same time. Then you get a gentle WHUFF when the burner lights. How far it gets in the sequence gives an idea of what ain't working. (It's a stunt I
learned on a particular brand of FM transmitters which have a very distinctive sounding start sequence) Just like cars, smell and sound are about as
helpful as looking.

--johnny

--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
So it's the first step that is not beginning. Could be dead spot on motor. Give it a push start and or meter for 12V at motor.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
That’s what I thought, but then I discovered what must have been a problem
with the wiring between the thermostat and the furnace. I replaced wiring
that and all works. Same symptoms as you, same confirmation of continuity
through the thermostat using an ohm-meter, though I tested at the
thermostat because it was easier. :)

Rick “but I got a replacement furnace out of the deal” Denney

> Can't be an issue with the thermostat. As covered below. OHM's meter
> confirmed it. And can't be the sail switch. As the fan doesn't come on at
> all. The sail switch is what turns the gas valve on after the fan is up to
> speed. Bob Dunahugh 78 Royale
>
> I checked the thermostat, and related 2 wires. OK. Have good 12 V power.
> Ground good. First thought was that the control board was the problem. But.
> I believe that the thermostat turns on a relay. That then turns on the 12
> V powers the control board. So I'm thinking that I need to send money to
> Jim at Applied. Jim will get me the correct part as usual. You SPARKIES
> think I got it correct? Bob Dunahugh
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--
Rick Denney
73 x-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Off-list email to rick at rickdenney dot com