Studs for Alcoas

[al chernoff]

echo that... I did not change mine either. Osburn said it wasn't
necessary, nor did Don Wirth who I respect. Now I head for cover also.
al

> Dratted snipers! Stick your head up, take a shot and then duck!
>

> >
> > Alan
> > Don't bother changing the studs for the aluminum wheels unless
> > they have been stretched or damaged. It just isn't necessary !
> > Now excuse me while I head for cover....incoming (opinions) !!
> >
> > See ya
> > Mikeb

 

[al chernoff]

You know... its hard to be an eagle when you have to work with turkeys,
and better yet, its hard towork like a turkey when you have to dodge
flying s@#t from soaring eagles.

> Dratted snipers! Stick your head up, take a shot and then duck!
>

> >
> > Alan
> > Don't bother changing the studs for the aluminum wheels unless
> > they have been stretched or damaged. It just isn't necessary !
> > Now excuse me while I head for cover....incoming (opinions) !!
> >
> > See ya
> > Mikeb

 

[no fixed address]

Alan
Don't bother changing the studs for the aluminum wheels unless
they have been stretched or damaged. It just isn't necessary !
Now excuse me while I head for cover....incoming (opinions) !!

See ya
Mikeb

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
gmcmail will no longer exist after Jan.28th/00
the ONLY address will be Homebase
Soon to be 'back on the road'
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

 

[alan bredbury]

What is the best source for the new studs needed for
the Alcoa wheels.
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[blank]

Got mine from Cinnabar. I don't know if they're the "best" source, but
they've got 'em.

Keep in mind you must pull all six down to the bare hub to press out the
stud and press the new ones in. This means completely disassembling the
front hub and bearing assembly and removing the eight bolts holding each
brake drum in place. Given the dispute over whether this is really
critical, I'd hold off on replacing them until you service the wheel
bearings.

Patrick

>
> What is the best source for the new studs needed for
> the Alcoa wheels.

 

[dave mumert]

Hi Alan

The GM number for the studs is 704922. They may be available locally.
Napa has them as a BD60909 (Walker I think, $1.69Cdn) or 641-1359 (Balkamp I think)

If you believe there is a difference in strength then use the genuine GM part.

If you don't get the GM part I would try one to confirm it fits right before buying 48.

Dave Mumert
dave

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Bredbury"
To: "gmc mail list"
Sent: January 19, 2000 12:27 PM
Subject: GMC: Studs for Alcoas

> What is the best source for the new studs needed for
> the Alcoa wheels.
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com
>

 

[alan bredbury]

Thanks Patrick, I am doing ball joints and axle shafts
this weekend and am planning to put the Alcoas on just
the front for the Feb trip to Florida. I figured this
job would force me to have things far enough apart to
make it worth while. Putting the Alcoas and new tires
just on the front for now will allow me to put the 4
best steel rims and tires on the rear for now. Cost of
tires is the limiting factor here as I am dumping
timing chain, water pump, radiator core(ouch) and
rebuilt axles in all at once.

>Got mine from Cinnabar. I don't know if they're >the
"best" source, but they've got 'em.
>Keep in mind you must pull all six down to the bare
>hub to press out the stud and press the new ones in.
>This means completely disassembling the front hub and
>bearing assembly and removing the eight bolts holding
>each brake drum in place. Given the dispute over
>whether this is really critical, I'd hold off on
>replacing them until you service the wheel bearings.

>Patrick

>
>> What is the best source for the new studs needed
for
>> the Alcoa wheels.

- ------------------------------

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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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[blank]

Dratted snipers! Stick your head up, take a shot and then duck!

>
> Alan
> Don't bother changing the studs for the aluminum wheels unless
> they have been stretched or damaged. It just isn't necessary !
> Now excuse me while I head for cover....incoming (opinions) !!
>
> See ya
> Mikeb

 

[wayne newland]

Gang

When I changed over to Alcoa's. my coach had about 37,000 miles and most of
it's life, it had been in storage. The tires were dry-rotted, so I knew
that I needed to get new tires and knew that I could save a lot of money by
staying with bias tires, but a previous motorhome had them and one of my
straight trucks was so equiped. I knew what it was like to round out the
tires, and the jaring ride for the first few miles, so the change over. I
did not change my studs. I did talk to as many people, and read what I
could get my hands on. True, the studs do not come all of the way through,
but they only lack a very small amount. I haven't had any troublle in 2
years. All of my old studs appear to be the same length.

Wayne Newland F9300 75 Palm Beach Columbia, Md

> echo that... I did not change mine either. Osburn said it wasn't
> necessary, nor did Don Wirth who I respect. Now I head for cover also.
> al
>

>
> > Dratted snipers! Stick your head up, take a shot and then duck!
> >

> > >
> > > Alan
> > > Don't bother changing the studs for the aluminum wheels unless
> > > they have been stretched or damaged. It just isn't necessary !
> > > Now excuse me while I head for cover....incoming (opinions) !!
> > >
> > > See ya
> > > Mikeb

 

[jim bounds1]

Wayne,

I too have mounted several Alcoa sets with OEM studs and have had no
trouble. The stud just grabs all of the threads and I think is OK. I
would say though that if you are doing wheel bearings or brakes that it
wouldn't hurt to throw a set of Dorman brand 610-218 studs in. They are a
bit longer and stick out about the same as the steel rim set up did.

I ran into a set of Progressive rims lately that only grabbed @ 1/2 of the
threads, I strongly recomended swapping those out.

Jim Bounds
- ------------

>Gang
>
>When I changed over to Alcoa's. my coach had about 37,000 miles and most of
>it's life, it had been in storage. The tires were dry-rotted, so I knew
>that I needed to get new tires and knew that I could save a lot of money by
>staying with bias tires, but a previous motorhome had them and one of my
>straight trucks was so equiped. I knew what it was like to round out the
>tires, and the jaring ride for the first few miles, so the change over. I
>did not change my studs. I did talk to as many people, and read what I
>could get my hands on. True, the studs do not come all of the way through,
>but they only lack a very small amount. I haven't had any troublle in 2
>years. All of my old studs appear to be the same length.
>
>Wayne Newland F9300 75 Palm Beach Columbia, Md
>

>
>> echo that... I did not change mine either. Osburn said it wasn't
>> necessary, nor did Don Wirth who I respect. Now I head for cover also.
>> al
>>

>>
>> > Dratted snipers! Stick your head up, take a shot and then duck!
>> >

>> > >
>> > > Alan
>> > > Don't bother changing the studs for the aluminum wheels unless
>> > > they have been stretched or damaged. It just isn't necessary !
>> > > Now excuse me while I head for cover....incoming (opinions) !!
>> > >
>> > > See ya
>> > > Mikeb
>
>
>
>
>
Jim Bounds/Co-op Motor Works Orlando www.gmccoop.com