Hey GMC friends,
We’re temporarily stranded, but fortunately with some tools and parts onboard, but a bit puzzled here:
The RV won’t start, despite a new starter installed a year ago, and a battery reading 12.6 volts,
plus good cables and connections from battery to post to starter, etc.
Last year, before replacing the starter, it always took 2 turns of the key before the RV would turn over at all.
I thought that maybe it was an old failing solenoid needing more time to engage, but after changing out the starter
and solenoid, this "2 turns” problem remained. but it ALWAYS started on the 2nd key turn, so it was put on my “fix later” list,
and, i carried around my rebuilt starter as a spare just in case.
Well last week, after a hot highway drive, i noticed on the 2nd turn of the key, the turn-over of the engine was slow and weak, despite the battery
showing good voltage; but fortunately battery boost got the job done.
This is when i checked battery connections, cables, and starter cable as well… no issues.
The next day (on cold engine), it still required battery boost to start, but i was confident enough to take this little trip to the beach,
with my tools of course. Well last night even battery boost couldn’t give us more than just a click… after 2 turns of the key (sometimes 3).
So the solenoid is getting power (enough power?)… , but my questions are:
Is it more likely to be the ignition switch or the ignition key switch that is causing the need for 2 turns of the key?
Seems the ignition key switch is a bit wobbly, but when inspecting the ignition switch on the steering column, nothing looks loose.
Does the click of the solenoid suggest that the ignition switch(es) are doing their job, delivering all the power they can?
or could this 2-turn issue suggest that there’s also extreme resistance going on, and perhaps its the switches that are the fault,
not delivering enough power? If the ignition key switch might be failing, can the “reach” of the ignition switch be adjusted, so the metal arm raises higher, for better connection? All i need is to get the coach home, and then i’ll install a new $15 ignition switch as a matter of troubleshooting if needed. (BTW: i know i bypassed the neutral safety switch years ago, and all its wiring looks fine )
I remember there’s a way to over-ride the ignition switch (and the ignition key switch at the same time? and hot-wire the coach,
but i don’t remember the steps involved. Would this be the next thing to try?
I also recall that its possible to put a screwdriver to the starter solenoid, but would like to make this the last resort test if possible.
(as well as swapping the starter and solenoid, roadside! i’ve never been able to do it without doing an oil change at the same time,
with that filter in the way, and i don’t have all those supplies with me! but hey, whatever it takes to avoid a 40 mile tow home...
BTW: The voltmeter shows a 1/2 volt drop at the battery, when i tested it yesterday;
both without battery boost (when it only gave a click), and with battery boost, when it actually started up; and with a 1/2 volt drop, believe this shows normal battery?
OK, i’m on the digest version of the forum, so due to the time sensitive nature (cops are giving me to 1pm before talking about towing),
so if you could email me directly with any tips, i’ll be quite obliged
and many thanks!
Greg Weber
’78 Eleganza II and ’76 Birchhaven custom cut-down 21’ footer
(considering selling it, and maybe that’s why its acting up!)
We’re temporarily stranded, but fortunately with some tools and parts onboard, but a bit puzzled here:
The RV won’t start, despite a new starter installed a year ago, and a battery reading 12.6 volts,
plus good cables and connections from battery to post to starter, etc.
Last year, before replacing the starter, it always took 2 turns of the key before the RV would turn over at all.
I thought that maybe it was an old failing solenoid needing more time to engage, but after changing out the starter
and solenoid, this "2 turns” problem remained. but it ALWAYS started on the 2nd key turn, so it was put on my “fix later” list,
and, i carried around my rebuilt starter as a spare just in case.
Well last week, after a hot highway drive, i noticed on the 2nd turn of the key, the turn-over of the engine was slow and weak, despite the battery
showing good voltage; but fortunately battery boost got the job done.
This is when i checked battery connections, cables, and starter cable as well… no issues.
The next day (on cold engine), it still required battery boost to start, but i was confident enough to take this little trip to the beach,
with my tools of course. Well last night even battery boost couldn’t give us more than just a click… after 2 turns of the key (sometimes 3).
So the solenoid is getting power (enough power?)… , but my questions are:
Is it more likely to be the ignition switch or the ignition key switch that is causing the need for 2 turns of the key?
Seems the ignition key switch is a bit wobbly, but when inspecting the ignition switch on the steering column, nothing looks loose.
Does the click of the solenoid suggest that the ignition switch(es) are doing their job, delivering all the power they can?
or could this 2-turn issue suggest that there’s also extreme resistance going on, and perhaps its the switches that are the fault,
not delivering enough power? If the ignition key switch might be failing, can the “reach” of the ignition switch be adjusted, so the metal arm raises higher, for better connection? All i need is to get the coach home, and then i’ll install a new $15 ignition switch as a matter of troubleshooting if needed. (BTW: i know i bypassed the neutral safety switch years ago, and all its wiring looks fine )
I remember there’s a way to over-ride the ignition switch (and the ignition key switch at the same time? and hot-wire the coach,
but i don’t remember the steps involved. Would this be the next thing to try?
I also recall that its possible to put a screwdriver to the starter solenoid, but would like to make this the last resort test if possible.
(as well as swapping the starter and solenoid, roadside! i’ve never been able to do it without doing an oil change at the same time,
with that filter in the way, and i don’t have all those supplies with me! but hey, whatever it takes to avoid a 40 mile tow home...
BTW: The voltmeter shows a 1/2 volt drop at the battery, when i tested it yesterday;
both without battery boost (when it only gave a click), and with battery boost, when it actually started up; and with a 1/2 volt drop, believe this shows normal battery?
OK, i’m on the digest version of the forum, so due to the time sensitive nature (cops are giving me to 1pm before talking about towing),
so if you could email me directly with any tips, i’ll be quite obliged
and many thanks!
Greg Weber
’78 Eleganza II and ’76 Birchhaven custom cut-down 21’ footer
(considering selling it, and maybe that’s why its acting up!)
