Stock gauges. How to calibrate. As you just don't really know the real temp, or oil pressure numbers.

Bob Dunahugh

New member
Sep 17, 2012
2,784
4
3
You can calibrate them to meaningful numbers.

For the temp gauge. Drive the coach to reach it's normal operating temp on the stock gauge. Pull to the side of the road. Raise the engine lid. Point an infred temp sensor on the thermostat housing. ( These temp sensors are a must tool to own, and travel with. ) Then use a fine tip Sharpie to put a dot on the face of the temp gauge IF the temp reading looks right. Now you'll know normal, and the temp for your GMC while on the road. A side benefit of this is. That this reading just might tell you that you do have a cooling issue now. Most long term over heating issues are from radiator problems.

For oil pressure. This can all be done in the driveway. Remove the stock oil pressure sender. Located close to, and left of the thermostat housing. Install a mechanical oil pressure gauge were you removed the stock sending unit. Get to normal running temps. Then run engine up to 2,000 RPM's while in park. Make note of the mechanical gauge reading. Then idle engine. Note this idle pressure reading. Then put the stock oil pressure sender back in . Start engine. Put dots on your stock pressure gauge lens at the idle, and the 2000 RPM readings. Idle reading as low as 10 PSI are fine. For GM cars, and trucks that only had low pressure lights. GM had those lights come on at 7 PSI as a rule. Remember that GM felt that anything above 7 PSI at idle was adequate to protect their factory warranty. 22 PSI was felt as an acceptable driving low pressure. Again to protect their warranty.

If you do fined your oil pressure readings AT GM's low limits. A cheep, dirty way to put off an engine rebuild for awhile. ( This will NOT fix your worn out engine. ) Is to install a high volume oil pump. They're 50% longer then stock oil pump. Thus 50% more volume. They DO NOT put out more pressure. As both stock, and high volume pumps have relief valves in them that are generally set at around 35 PSI. The reason your oil pressure can be low comes from excess bearing clearance due to wear of the bearings, crank, and oil pump. The high volume pump simply puts out more oil to overtake the oil requirement of worn out bearings. The GM engineers over sized the original oil pump to start with to deal with future engine wear for the life of the engines.

If you really want to protect your engine. Get the Digi Panel from Jim K at Applied GMC that has the sound alarm if there's troubles under the bonnet. ( The bonnet term is meant to make Rob M happy ) GRIN. Bob Dunahugh 78 Royale
 
Then 22PSI running is adequate for my coach? I feel much better if that's correct. It starts over 40PSI cold idle but drops drastically when it
comes up to temp. This with 15-45 Rotella. It does, however hold 30 or so at a minimum. Tell me that's safe and I'll quit worrying over it.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
Johnny
You aren't the only one waiting for more info on this. I've been mentally
doing a rebuild for 6 months now..if I could put it off one more year......

Mike in NS

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On Mon, Feb 12, 2018 at 9:47 AM, Johnny Bridges via Gmclist <

> Then 22PSI running is adequate for my coach? I feel much better if that's
> correct. It starts over 40PSI cold idle but drops drastically when it
> comes up to temp. This with 15-45 Rotella. It does, however hold 30 or
> so at a minimum. Tell me that's safe and I'll quit worrying over it.
>
> --johnny
> --
> 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS

Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !
 
> Then 22PSI running is adequate for my coach? I feel much better if that's correct. It starts over 40PSI cold idle but drops drastically when it
> comes up to temp. This with 15-45 Rotella. It does, however hold 30 or so at a minimum. Tell me that's safe and I'll quit worrying over it.
>
> --johnny

> Johnny You aren't the only one waiting for more info on this. I've been mentally
> doing a rebuild for 6 months now..if I could put it off one more year......
>
> Mike in NS

Neither of you should worry.

Lube oil pressure is only required to get the lube oil where it needs to be and still have it do its jobs.
What are its Jobs?? (More or less in order of accepted importance)
Cooling, things like bottoms of piston crowns
Flushing, the debris from wear and combustion so it will not interfere
Damping, keeping metal parts from banging in each other
Working fluid, for things like lash adjusters and chain tensioners
Metal surface isolation, preventing metal parts from working on each other
Lubrication, forming the hydraulic wedge that actually is the bearing in rotating parts

Notice I got to six before hydraulic lubrication?
Does the pressure of lubricating oil as it is delivered to the bearing of a plain bearing system matter?
Not really, all the oil has to do is get there and the rotating journal will pull it into the load areas.

In an engine such as a BB Olds, you really only need enough lubricating oil pressure to deliver it to the lash adjuster (cam followers) for everything
to be good. Everything else (we don't have a chain tensioner), can be handled by the lube oil that is thrown around by the crank. So, regardless of
what the oil pressure gauge says, if the engine is not making nasty noises at road load, it is probably good and will be for some time to come.

All that said, low lube oil pressure at idle is an indicator of wear. But is it wear of the bearing, the lash adjusters and bores or the lubrication
oil pump itself. There is just no way to know. The best one I have personally known was an engine that was shut down on low lube oil pressure and
the problem was a seized valve. That seized valve cause the pushrod to couple and that took the load off the cam follower that popped out of the bore
and so there went the lube oil pressure. We got a new pushrod, cleaned the valve stem and screwed the cylinder had back down and put it back in
service for another few years.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Aweright, Matt. I feel better, I'll get more time out of it. It doesn't use oil to any amount, but drinks gas like there's no tomorrow. It has too
much cam at idle but will spin the wheels on request. I hafta sort the injector this spring, therein may be the mileage problem. However if it
lunches on the way to Bean Station, it's On you :)

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
Spinning wheels might have sumthin to do with drinking gas. Jus sayin.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

On Feb 12, 2018 10:29 AM, "Johnny Bridges via Gmclist" <

> Aweright, Matt. I feel better, I'll get more time out of it. It doesn't
> use oil to any amount, but drinks gas like there's no tomorrow. It has too
> much cam at idle but will spin the wheels on request. I hafta sort the
> injector this spring, therein may be the mileage problem. However if it
> lunches on the way to Bean Station, it's On you :)
>
> --johnny
> --
> 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Having read that, I think I'll put it off for two more years !

Mike in NS

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> Spinning wheels might have sumthin to do with drinking gas. Jus sayin.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 GMC ROYALE 403
>
> On Feb 12, 2018 10:29 AM, "Johnny Bridges via Gmclist" <

>
> > Aweright, Matt. I feel better, I'll get more time out of it. It doesn't
> > use oil to any amount, but drinks gas like there's no tomorrow. It has
> too
> > much cam at idle but will spin the wheels on request. I hafta sort the
> > injector this spring, therein may be the mileage problem. However if it
> > lunches on the way to Bean Station, it's On you :)
> >
> > --johnny
> > --
> > 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> > Braselton, Ga.
> > "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to
> me
> > in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS

Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !
 
Can't agree, Jim. Road speeds of 60 - 65 per on cruise. The spinning at startup if you aren't careful is due I believe to a lack of traction in
front coupled with a breathed-on engine. To the degree that it wouldn't go up a slight grade on a wet gravel county road in MO. I had to fall back
and get a running start. This with a no slip differential which simply means both front wheels spin when there's no traction.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
Johnny, 65 pushes a bunch of air in front of the coach. Something like "
inversely proportional to the square of the speed" or some other axiom.
When I was a teenager, my mother bought me a subscription to Mechanix
Illustrated. There was a monthly contributor called "Uncle Tom" McHale.
(sp) who did automobile tests. Once a year they did the Mobilgas Economy
Run, and he revealed all the secret tricks they used to improve fuel
economy. One was inflating the bias ply tires to 50 psi. Another was to
place a piece of wood under the accelerator. Swapping thermostats,
maximizing ignition timing, coasting with the engine off on downhills,
driving like you had a balloon under the foot feed was one of his
favorites. Anyway, he always drove under 50 bring the tests. Steady speed,
no jack rabbit starts. You get the picture. If you or I am following
someone who drives like that, it is sure to cause road rage. But it does
save gas.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or

On Feb 13, 2018 5:55 AM, "Johnny Bridges via Gmclist" <

> Can't agree, Jim. Road speeds of 60 - 65 per on cruise. The spinning at
> startup if you aren't careful is due I believe to a lack of traction in
> front coupled with a breathed-on engine. To the degree that it wouldn't
> go up a slight grade on a wet gravel county road in MO. I had to fall back
> and get a running start. This with a no slip differential which simply
> means both front wheels spin when there's no traction.
>
> --johnny
> --
> 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
> Something like "inversely proportional to the square of the speed"
Ha ha do we wish!

Wind resistance is the Coefficient of Drag(CD) times the frontal area (A) times the speed squared (v^2)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_(physics)

Drag depends on the properties of the fluid and on the size, shape, and speed of the object. One way to express this is by means of the drag equationhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_equation :

F D = 1 2 ρ v 2 C D A {\displaystyle F_{D}\,=\,{\tfrac {1}{2}}\,\rho \,v^{2}\,C_{D}\,A} [F_{D}\,=\,{\tfrac {1}{2}}\,\rho \,v^{2}\,C_{D}\,A]

where

F D {\displaystyle F_{D}} [F_{D}] is the drag force,
ρ {\displaystyle \rho } [\rho] is the densityhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Density of the fluid,[11]https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_(physics)#cite_note-11
v {\displaystyle v} [v] is the speed of the object relative to the fluid,
A {\displaystyle A} [A] is the cross sectional areahttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cross_section_(geometry) , and
C D {\displaystyle C_{D}} [C_{D}] is the drag coefficienthttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_coefficient – a dimensionlesshttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimensionless_number number.

since CD p and A are fixed all you can do is reduce v^2
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of James Hupy
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2018 8:52 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Stock gauges. How to calibrate. As you just don't really know the real temp, or oil pressure numbers.

Johnny, 65 pushes a bunch of air in front of the coach. Something like "
inversely proportional to the square of the speed" or some other axiom.
When I was a teenager, my mother bought me a subscription to Mechanix
Illustrated. There was a monthly contributor called "Uncle Tom" McHale.
(sp) who did automobile tests. Once a year they did the Mobilgas Economy
Run, and he revealed all the secret tricks they used to improve fuel
economy. One was inflating the bias ply tires to 50 psi. Another was to
place a piece of wood under the accelerator. Swapping thermostats,
maximizing ignition timing, coasting with the engine off on downhills,
driving like you had a balloon under the foot feed was one of his
favorites. Anyway, he always drove under 50 bring the tests. Steady speed,
no jack rabbit starts. You get the picture. If you or I am following
someone who drives like that, it is sure to cause road rage. But it does
save gas.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or

On Feb 13, 2018 5:55 AM, "Johnny Bridges via Gmclist" <

> Can't agree, Jim. Road speeds of 60 - 65 per on cruise. The spinning at
> startup if you aren't careful is due I believe to a lack of traction in
> front coupled with a breathed-on engine. To the degree that it wouldn't
> go up a slight grade on a wet gravel county road in MO. I had to fall back
> and get a running start. This with a no slip differential which simply
> means both front wheels spin when there's no traction.
>
> --johnny
> --
> 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
I grew up reading Tom McCahill, hell of a guy!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_McCahill

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_McCahill

Don't know if these links are working, but you can copy and paste.

Marsh (rarely post) Wilkes

-----Original Message-----
From: Keith V
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2018 10:22 AM
To: James Hupy ; gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Stock gauges. How to calibrate. As you just don't
really know the real temp, or oil pressure numbers.

> Something like "inversely proportional to the square of the speed"
Ha ha do we wish!

Wind resistance is the Coefficient of Drag(CD) times the frontal area (A)
times the speed squared (v^2)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_(physics)

Drag depends on the properties of the fluid and on the size, shape, and
speed of the object. One way to express this is by means of the drag
equationhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_equation :

F D = 1 2 ρ v 2 C D A {\displaystyle F_{D}\,=\,{\tfrac {1}{2}}\,\rho
\,v^{2}\,C_{D}\,A} [F_{D}\,=\,{\tfrac {1}{2}}\,\rho \,v^{2}\,C_{D}\,A]

where

F D {\displaystyle F_{D}} [F_{D}] is the drag force,
ρ {\displaystyle \rho } [\rho] is the
densityhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Density of the
fluid,[11]https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_(physics)#cite_note-11
v {\displaystyle v} [v] is the speed of the object relative to the fluid,
A {\displaystyle A} [A] is the cross sectional
areahttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cross_section_(geometry) , and
C D {\displaystyle C_{D}} [C_{D}] is the drag
coefficienthttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_coefficient – a
dimensionlesshttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimensionless_number number.

since CD p and A are fixed all you can do is reduce v^2
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of James Hupy

Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2018 8:52 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Stock gauges. How to calibrate. As you just don't
really know the real temp, or oil pressure numbers.

Johnny, 65 pushes a bunch of air in front of the coach. Something like "
inversely proportional to the square of the speed" or some other axiom.
When I was a teenager, my mother bought me a subscription to Mechanix
Illustrated. There was a monthly contributor called "Uncle Tom" McHale.
(sp) who did automobile tests. Once a year they did the Mobilgas Economy
Run, and he revealed all the secret tricks they used to improve fuel
economy. One was inflating the bias ply tires to 50 psi. Another was to
place a piece of wood under the accelerator. Swapping thermostats,
maximizing ignition timing, coasting with the engine off on downhills,
driving like you had a balloon under the foot feed was one of his
favorites. Anyway, he always drove under 50 bring the tests. Steady speed,
no jack rabbit starts. You get the picture. If you or I am following
someone who drives like that, it is sure to cause road rage. But it does
save gas.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or

On Feb 13, 2018 5:55 AM, "Johnny Bridges via Gmclist" <

> Can't agree, Jim. Road speeds of 60 - 65 per on cruise. The spinning at
> startup if you aren't careful is due I believe to a lack of traction in
> front coupled with a breathed-on engine. To the degree that it wouldn't
> go up a slight grade on a wet gravel county road in MO. I had to fall
> back
> and get a running start. This with a no slip differential which simply
> means both front wheels spin when there's no traction.
>
> --johnny
> --
> 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
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Absolute precision in engine istruments is substantially less of a concern than change. When you mark the gauge, you're not nearly as interested in
the absolute - though you can measure it for peace of mind - as you are in change. i.e. if the needle is off the dot, >why< is it off the dot. I've
a nice set of digital gauges I',, ,ikely put in the Ratrod if I ever make an instrument panel. They give absolute readings very well, but they're
basically useless to see change unless you scan them long enough to digest the number and ask is it bigger, littler, or the same. That borders on the
useless for the coach. Take Bob's approach. And as many of us do, ad the DigiPanel. It will get your attention if you're freeway fixated and
something changes.

And if you want to see what the electrics are doing, put an ammeter - or two - in the coach. So it says 13.9 voltrs at highway speed. Cool. Is that
13.9 the float voltage of a charged chassis battery drawing maybe 4 -5 Amps at float, or a battery with a dead cell drawing 40 Amps? You'll find out
when next you try to start the coach. Better to know ahead of time.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
10-4 on the ammeter, Johnny...most people don't realize the value of that particular instrument, but you explained it well with few words.
--
Terry Kelpien

ASE Master Technician

73 Glacier 260

Smithfield, Va.
 
However, I don’t know if he meant a volltmeter or an ammeter. He said he wanted to read 13.39 volts and that would take a voltmeter.

Emery Stora

>
> 10-4 on the ammeter, Johnny...most people don't realize the value of that particular instrument, but you explained it well with few words.
> --
> Terry Kelpien
>
> ASE Master Technician
>
> 73 Glacier 260
>
> Smithfield, Va.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
well, you can hardly resolve one decimal, much less two with an analog meter. Which begs the question, where in the GMC do you need this resolution?

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
> Is that 13.9 the float voltage of a charged chassis battery drawing maybe 4 -5 Amps at float, or a battery with a dead cell drawing 40 Amps?
>
> --johnny

I read that as "A voltmeter that reads 13.9 volts does not tell you the condition of the battery, but an ammeter will."
--
Bill Van Vlack
'76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid
November 2015.
 
IMHO, you really need both current AND voltage meters plus knowledge of how to interpret what you see to truly indicate battery condition. AND, there is no such thing as instantaneous results without some serious analysis equipment.

D C "Mac" Macdonald
Amateur Radio K2GKK
Since 30 November '53
USAF and FAA, Retired
Member GMCMI & Classics
Oklahoma City, OK
"The Money Pit"
TZE166V101966
'76 ex-Palm Beach
k2gkk + hotmail dot com

________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Bill Van Vlack
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 10:00
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Stock gauges. How to calibrate. As you just don't really know the real temp, or oil pressure numbers.

> Is that 13.9 the float voltage of a charged chassis battery drawing maybe 4 -5 Amps at float, or a battery with a dead cell drawing 40 Amps?
>
> --johnny

I read that as "A voltmeter that reads 13.9 volts does not tell you the condition of the battery, but an ammeter will."
--
Bill Van Vlack
'76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid November 2015.
 
Keith V,
I can tell you at OU, or classes were so into solving math equations, I did
not get the fundamental concepts till I had the wind tunnel lab.
We knew more about a fluid going down a sink.

On Thu, Feb 15, 2018 at 9:14 AM, D C _Mac_ Macdonald
wrote:

> IMHO, you really need both current AND voltage meters plus knowledge of
> how to interpret what you see to truly indicate battery condition. AND,
> there is no such thing as instantaneous results without some serious
> analysis equipment.
>
>
> D C "Mac" Macdonald
> Amateur Radio K2GKK
> Since 30 November '53
> USAF and FAA, Retired
> Member GMCMI & Classics
> Oklahoma City, OK
> "The Money Pit"
> TZE166V101966
> '76 ex-Palm Beach
> k2gkk + hotmail dot com
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Gmclist on behalf of Bill Van
> Vlack
> Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 10:00
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Stock gauges. How to calibrate. As you just don't
> really know the real temp, or oil pressure numbers.
>

> > Is that 13.9 the float voltage of a charged chassis battery drawing
> maybe 4 -5 Amps at float, or a battery with a dead cell drawing 40 Amps?
> >
> > --johnny
>
>
> I read that as "A voltmeter that reads 13.9 volts does not tell you the
> condition of the battery, but an ammeter will."
> --
> Bill Van Vlack
> '76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath,
> Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o
> mid November 2015.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
I am going to jump in here again now that the subject has changed to batteries and the charging there of.....

What I learned most of what I know about batteries, I learned sailing long passages with two men that survived as submariners in the Pacific during
WWII. As they survived in a service that had huge losses, one must allow that these men were both knowledgeable and lucky.

They had all the instruments technology could provide. This included bank volt and current meters with 5 significant digit displays. Both conceded
that there measurements were indicative, but not very effective for determining actual state of charge (herein referred to as SOC). Batteries are
subject to many idiosyncrasies. They were so advanced, that they later in the war, they even had charge current integrators that reported to sum of
ampere hours into an out of the Sargo (a BIG flooded cell) batteries. (How's that for a early version of a Trimetric or Victron?)

Both stated at that the only real way to evaluate SOC is by the electrolyte density.

I now have a Trimetric. The SOC it reports is very much in line with the electrolyte density as I measure it with a refractometer. Refractometers
are not temperature sensitive. Mine was quite expensive when I purchased it, but there are now CCVs available at reasonable cost if you do not like
the idea of a modern current integrator.

Other interesting things:
No two banks will ever be identical.
Even upon departing Electric Boat (in Groton CT where many were built) the engineers would be identifying differences.
Never could any two banks be charged in parallel and be brought to the same SOC. They had to be charged independently.
Discharging in parallel was less problematic, but still, one would go down faster.
Some things never change.

What prompted both of these discussion (that I actually managed to listen to all of - amazing for a lad of my age) was difficulties had with the house
bank of three different vessels all in the process of traversing great distances without any support and having to count on the house bank to supply
so much essential power. These discussions are why I have rerigged so many vessels with separate house and engine banks. (Kind of like how GMCs were
shipped.)

Little aside for amusement. They had an evaporators onboard to distill sea water. Their first job was to make battery quality water. If they had
running time left or the unit came out of spec for battery water, then they use that as potable water for the crew. Let's just say it was a tough
life. Washing was not a big priority.

Matt
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Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit