Steering upper rubber boot

Maybe not too late: Did you measure the diameter of the steering column
CV? Looks to me like this CV Boots Joint Replacement Cover Performance
Silicone Rubber Flexible Constant Velocity Joint, 5 inch (125mm) Height
Blue, Fittings - Amazon Canada
https://www.amazon.ca/Replacement-Performance-Silicone-Flexible-Constant/dp/B07ZFB1N14/ref=pd_di_sccai_1?pd_rd_w=ishWk&pf_rd_p=e92f388e-b766-4f7f-aac1-ee1d0056e8fb&pf_rd_r=Z9SRFN94BTXHKT8NY3X6&pd_rd_r=c8e17879-e191-462b-9265-c5d4d49c8cb8&pd_rd_wg=qLal6&pd_rd_i=B07ZFB1N14&psc=1
is
probably about 2" too big! :-(

IIRC, I've always had to use boots from motorcycle shocks or similar to get
small enough diameters.

Ken H.

> > I avoid silicone parts for boots and hoses as poor tear resistance.
> Almost as much as I avoid urethane arm bushings for harshness.
>
> Oh well too late now. 8o :d
>
> Larry
> --
> Larry - Victoria BC -
>
> 1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything
> working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
I used a two piece boot off a Offroad long travel Rancho shock for a jacked
up high performance offloaded. Don't remember the number, and did not write
it down. Years ago. Has lasted very well. I too used a dremel tool with a
cut off wheel to index those CV joint pieces. Bad stuff will happen if you
re-assemble it wrong. There a 5 x 4 = 20 wrong ways to reassemble it, and
only 1 correct one.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

> Thanks Ken, I'll use a file for marking, old school and lack of power
> tools y'know/ :roll: :o :)
>
> Larry
> --
> Larry - Victoria BC -
>
> 1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything
> working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
We do not know everything, but we communicate with our counterparts that
work on the GMC MH and have a better idea of what parts work well.
We learn a lot at the International Convention when the presenters teach us
and I do some presentations and get feedback from the members.
Visit our web site and see what is available.

> I used a two piece boot off a Offroad long travel Rancho shock for a jacked
> up high performance offloaded. Don't remember the number, and did not write
> it down. Years ago. Has lasted very well. I too used a dremel tool with a
> cut off wheel to index those CV joint pieces. Bad stuff will happen if you
> re-assemble it wrong. There a 5 x 4 = 20 wrong ways to reassemble it, and
> only 1 correct one.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>

>
> > Thanks Ken, I'll use a file for marking, old school and lack of power
> > tools y'know/ :roll: :o :)
> >
> > Larry
> > --
> > Larry - Victoria BC -
> >
> > 1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything
> > working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system
> ..
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.gmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502
 
I’m going to chime out.....lots of good and better advice than I can add.

> We do not know everything, but we communicate with our counterparts that
> work on the GMC MH and have a better idea of what parts work well.
> We learn a lot at the International Convention when the presenters teach us
> and I do some presentations and get feedback from the members.
> Visit our web site and see what is available.
>

>
> > I used a two piece boot off a Offroad long travel Rancho shock for a
> jacked
> > up high performance offloaded. Don't remember the number, and did not
> write
> > it down. Years ago. Has lasted very well. I too used a dremel tool with a
> > cut off wheel to index those CV joint pieces. Bad stuff will happen if
> you
> > re-assemble it wrong. There a 5 x 4 = 20 wrong ways to reassemble it, and
> > only 1 correct one.
> > Jim Hupy
> > Salem, Oregon
> >

> >
> > > Thanks Ken, I'll use a file for marking, old school and lack of power
> > > tools y'know/ :roll: :o :)
> > >
> > > Larry
> > > --
> > > Larry - Victoria BC -
> > >
> > > 1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything
> > > working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust
> system
> > ..
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >
>
>
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> jimk
> http://www.gmcrvparts.com
> 1-800-752-7502
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
--

*Len and Pat Novak*

*1978 GMC Kingsley*

*The Beast II with dash lights that work and labels you can see!*

*Las Vegas, NV* new email: B52sRule

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375

www.bdub.net/novak/
 
> I’m going to chime out.....lots of good and better advice than I can add.

Len,

The plan is that you read what goes by here and then pass that along to others at some later time.
Isn't this community awesome?

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Ok out at the coach, blue shaft came out easy boot will fit it can be cut.
The blue coating is damaged on one spline, is this a big deal?
Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..
 
Ok out at the coach, blue shaft came out easy boot will fit it can be cut.
The blue coating is damaged on one spline, is this a big deal?
Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..
 
If the shaft can move in and out easily and there is no slop I would not be
super concerned with some damage to the plastic coating. With all of the
coating missing it still will not skip.
My 2c

Sully
Bellevue wa

> Ok out at the coach, blue shaft came out easy boot will fit it can be cut.
> The blue coating is damaged on one spline, is this a big deal?
> Larry
> --
> Larry - Victoria BC -
>
> 1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything
> working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Thanks Sully, That's a relief to hear.

Having a ponder on the whole slop issue and reluctant shaft withdrawl scenarios, seemed to me that the main thing that keeps these things stuck is
good old suction from the grease. Like I said earlier, we figured if we gave it a couple of days ration of PB Blaster and removed the grease zerk,
then the vacuum formed by the grease could be broken. With the zerk removed, air could enter the shaft through the zerk hole and it should come out
with no struggle. We did exactly that and it slid out with two fingers.

Thinking about slop just now, seems to me that one way to try and fix any play in the sleeve/shaft is with the old epoxy and grease trick. I'm a big
fan of this technique, used it to repair stripped threads many a time. First I'd fix the blue coating with some JB weld, getting the shaft back to
spec. If, after that, there's still play in the sleeve, I'd clean out the sleeve and plug up any drain holes or grease nipple threads with grease.
With that all done, I'd give the blue shaft a good smear of grease and pour a bunch of epoxy into the sleeve and shove the shaft in and mop up any
extra gipe spilling out of the top. Let it sit for a couple of days and pull out the shaft checking it can move up and down. All good?

Bolt her up.

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..
 
I personally can’t imagine a scenario where the suction from the grease could cause enough difference to keep the shaft from coming out. When mine came out - it was FROZEN solid. The shaft had to be driven out from the bottom.

Myself - I’d think carefully about fixing things that may not be issues. “Low hanging fruit” and “choosing your battles carefully”, etc... But, I’m reasonably happy with how my steering “feels” - you mentioned you weren’t quite so happy.

Rob
Victoria, BC
76 Royale - Rear Twins/Dry Bath

>
> Thanks Sully, That's a relief to hear.
>
> Having a ponder on the whole slop issue and reluctant shaft withdrawl scenarios, seemed to me that the main thing that keeps these things stuck is
> good old suction from the grease. Like I said earlier, we figured if we gave it a couple of days ration of PB Blaster and removed the grease zerk,
> then the vacuum formed by the grease could be broken. With the zerk removed, air could enter the shaft through the zerk hole and it should come out
> with no struggle. We did exactly that and it slid out with two fingers.
>
> Thinking about slop just now, seems to me that one way to try and fix any play in the sleeve/shaft is with the old epoxy and grease trick. I'm a big
> fan of this technique, used it to repair stripped threads many a time. First I'd fix the blue coating with some JB weld, getting the shaft back to
> spec. If, after that, there's still play in the sleeve, I'd clean out the sleeve and plug up any drain holes or grease nipple threads with grease.
> With that all done, I'd give the blue shaft a good smear of grease and pour a bunch of epoxy into the sleeve and shove the shaft in and mop up any
> extra gipe spilling out of the top. Let it sit for a couple of days and pull out the shaft checking it can move up and down. All good?
>
> Bolt her up.
>
> Larry
> --
> Larry - Victoria BC -
>
> 1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..
 
Same here, mine required a press to get out, and that was after removing the bottom plug.
It had been without a boot for years im sure
________________________________
From: Rob
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2021 10:12:43 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: [GMCnet] Re: Steering upper rubber boot

I personally can’t imagine a scenario where the suction from the grease could cause enough difference to keep the shaft from coming out. When mine came out - it was FROZEN solid. The shaft had to be driven out from the bottom.

Myself - I’d think carefully about fixing things that may not be issues. “Low hanging fruit” and “choosing your battles carefully”, etc... But, I’m reasonably happy with how my steering “feels” - you mentioned you weren’t quite so happy.

Rob
Victoria, BC
76 Royale - Rear Twins/Dry Bath

>
> Thanks Sully, That's a relief to hear.
>
> Having a ponder on the whole slop issue and reluctant shaft withdrawl scenarios, seemed to me that the main thing that keeps these things stuck is
> good old suction from the grease. Like I said earlier, we figured if we gave it a couple of days ration of PB Blaster and removed the grease zerk,
> then the vacuum formed by the grease could be broken. With the zerk removed, air could enter the shaft through the zerk hole and it should come out
> with no struggle. We did exactly that and it slid out with two fingers.
>
> Thinking about slop just now, seems to me that one way to try and fix any play in the sleeve/shaft is with the old epoxy and grease trick. I'm a big
> fan of this technique, used it to repair stripped threads many a time. First I'd fix the blue coating with some JB weld, getting the shaft back to
> spec. If, after that, there's still play in the sleeve, I'd clean out the sleeve and plug up any drain holes or grease nipple threads with grease.
> With that all done, I'd give the blue shaft a good smear of grease and pour a bunch of epoxy into the sleeve and shove the shaft in and mop up any
> extra gipe spilling out of the top. Let it sit for a couple of days and pull out the shaft checking it can move up and down. All good?
>
> Bolt her up.
>
> Larry
> --
> Larry - Victoria BC -
>
> 1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
Happy to report Amazon universal silicone boot is installed and fits rather well. Two top sections to be trimmed after fitting.

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach VIN TZE167V101295 - 39,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New wiper blades, New SS exhaust system ..
 
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