> Hey y’all. My steering column and steering line are relatively new and very solid. All the slack that’s there down to the suspension Is in the
> box. Is there a rule of thumb or measurable acceptable tolerance of slack for the box? I’m trying to determine if it’s time to RR the steering
> box. I don’t have any GMCMH near by to compare.
>
> Thanks for any guidance.
Mike,
We see this a while lot and the usual reason is that someone didn't read the manual. (RTFM!!) The steering box for a TZE is a strange bird because it
is preloaded at the center. If the box is not on DEAD CENTER the steering is loose. This is all in the manual X7525. The picture you have to see is
on page 9-39 Figure 64. You should start by popping up the horn button and look for the chisel mark on the top of the steering shaft. If it is not
straight ahead when the wheel is straight ahead, there is your problem.
I am going to lay out what has worked for me and hope I don't miss a step.
Get the front tires off the ground and spin the steering wheel lock to lock and count the turns.
Bring it back half the turns and look at the chisel mark. If it is straight ahead, you may be well off, but check things first.
If it is not continue by removing the grill if you can. Look at figure 64 and not that there is a flat on the steering shaft that should alight with
the machined surface of the box. You may have to loosen the pinch bolt on that cardin (U) joint to see the flat. The pinch bolt is NOT on the
flat!! That alignment should be at straight ahead. If the wheel and chisel mark don't agree, start there and make them. This will also make the
lock work better.
If the flat is aligned, have someone move the wheel a little each way and you keep a hold on the pitman arm and that cardin joint. If one moves
without the other, your need a steering box. The one in the coach is an all around strange part. It has that high center and it has internal stops.
Don't get one at a parts house, get one from a known good GMC supplier.
If the steering box is good, keep doing the shake and find out what is loose. There are lots of opportunities for it to be. Check everything.
If the box is good, things can still be bad all the way from there to the wheel. Check them all. If it is good from the wheel to the pitman arm, it
can be tie rod ends or ball joints.
If that stuff is right, then the toe is probably off. This is where the problem usually started. Someone got the front end aligned and shop set the
tow-in at just one tie rod. Then they moved the steering wheel so it was straight ahead. Big Bozo NoNo on a TZE.
Matt
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Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
